I need to stick some p/b to metal but I think that pva and no more
nails type adhesive only works on porous or fibrous materials. What is
best for sticking p/b to a non-porous surface.

Kevin

Kev wrote:
I need to stick some p/b to metal but I think that pva and no more
nails type adhesive only works on porous or fibrous materials. What is
best for sticking p/b to a non-porous surface.

I would have thought that no-nails type stuff would work fine

David

Lobster wrote:
Kev wrote:
I need to stick some p/b to metal but I think that pva and no more
nails type adhesive only works on porous or fibrous materials. What is
best for sticking p/b to a non-porous surface.

I would have thought that no-nails type stuff would work fine

David

No harm with trying but I thought that pva based glues were best on
porous surfaces.

Kevin

In article .com,
"Kev" writes:
I need to stick some p/b to metal but I think that pva and no more
nails type adhesive only works on porous or fibrous materials. What is
best for sticking p/b to a non-porous surface.

I've seen plasterboard screws used as self-tappers into metal studwork,
for which they seemed to work very well.

--
Andrew Gabriel

On 26 Jun 2006 01:53:25 -0700, Kev wrote:

I need to stick some p/b to metal but I think that pva and no more
nails type adhesive only works on porous or fibrous materials. What is
best for sticking p/b to a non-porous surface.

If you want to use a glue, then EvoStick Nail and Seal is the best option
since it sticks porous and non porous materials extremely well. It's not an
acrylic like most of these products it's a polymer sealant usually used to
seal underwater structures (e.g. keel to hull on sailing boats). It's tough
and works well with good "grab" and little tendency to slip.

Steve Firth wrote:
On 26 Jun 2006 01:53:25 -0700, Kev wrote:

I need to stick some p/b to metal but I think that pva and no more
nails type adhesive only works on porous or fibrous materials. What is
best for sticking p/b to a non-porous surface.

If you want to use a glue, then EvoStick Nail and Seal is the best option
since it sticks porous and non porous materials extremely well. It's not an
acrylic like most of these products it's a polymer sealant usually used to
seal underwater structures (e.g. keel to hull on sailing boats). It's tough
and works well with good "grab" and little tendency to slip.

I'll look into this. Having taken down the ceiling and plaster in my
1930's semi I found a heavy steel lintel above the old window opening
into an extension. This had been boxed in before but I could see why I
couldn't apply p/b direct to the lintle.
Bearing in mind this was a very heavy gauge channel section self
tappers would have been a bit difficult but I must admit that I hadn't
thought of using them.

Kevin

On 26 Jun 2006 05:07:50 -0700, "Kev" wrote:


Steve Firth wrote:
On 26 Jun 2006 01:53:25 -0700, Kev wrote:

I need to stick some p/b to metal but I think that pva and no more
nails type adhesive only works on porous or fibrous materials. What is
best for sticking p/b to a non-porous surface.

If you want to use a glue, then EvoStick Nail and Seal is the best option
since it sticks porous and non porous materials extremely well. It's not an
acrylic like most of these products it's a polymer sealant usually used to
seal underwater structures (e.g. keel to hull on sailing boats). It's tough
and works well with good "grab" and little tendency to slip.

I'll look into this. Having taken down the ceiling and plaster in my
1930's semi I found a heavy steel lintel above the old window opening
into an extension. This had been boxed in before but I could see why I
couldn't apply p/b direct to the lintle.
Bearing in mind this was a very heavy gauge channel section self
tappers would have been a bit difficult but I must admit that I hadn't
thought of using them.

Kevin

Ah.....I guess no-one in answering was thinking of a steel lintel when you said
metal ..


Stuart

Kev wrote:
I need to stick some p/b to metal but I think that pva and no more
nails type adhesive only works on porous or fibrous materials. What is
best for sticking p/b to a non-porous surface.

Kevin

I think no more nails will work, but car body filler certainly will, or
any epoxy glue.

Plaster will if the metal is perforated :-)

Stuart wrote:

Ah.....I guess no-one in answering was thinking of a steel lintel when you said metal ..

It's a real ****er when a clot gets half a dozen replies before he
thinks to elucidate.

You have to put soldiers in the channels and a baton on the side of
those wedges wide enough to stick past the steel and allow a batton to
be fixed to that if needed to drop the level to the inside surface of
the plasterboard.

It sounds complicated but is fairly straightforward if a bit of a pita.
If you have the right sized wood handy the wedges can stick out past
the steel. Then it's just a matter of dropping a wide enough batton to
the depth of the other joists which you can do by running a straight
edge through.

Never assume the steel is in level.

Weatherlawyer wrote:
Stuart wrote:

Ah.....I guess no-one in answering was thinking of a steel lintel when you said metal ..

It's a real ****er when a clot gets half a dozen replies before he
thinks to elucidate.

You have to put soldiers in the channels and a baton on the side of
those wedges wide enough to stick past the steel and allow a batton to
be fixed to that if needed to drop the level to the inside surface of
the plasterboard.

It sounds complicated but is fairly straightforward if a bit of a pita.
If you have the right sized wood handy the wedges can stick out past
the steel. Then it's just a matter of dropping a wide enough batton to
the depth of the other joists which you can do by running a straight
edge through.

Never assume the steel is in level.

But why go to all that trouble if the lintlel is level then just to
stick the plasterboard direct to the lintel.
In fact the previous boxing was all over the place as is the boxing on
the lintel in the kitchen. Of course if I did it myself then I could
make the effort to make it square and level unlike the previous
builders who just throught it up but thanks for the response anyway.

Kevin