Hello
I have had a problem with my hot water pump for the last few weeks -
it just wont cut out when the hot water or central heating timer
switches off.
The motorised valve seems to be working OK switches between hot water
and heating as normal and both the radiators and hot tank are being
heated.
A few times last week I was able to switch off the pump by manually
moving the lever on the motorised valve and letting it spring back, but
that action dosent work at all now and I cant get the pump to turn off,
except at the mains.
Some information about my system: it is a closed system in a 5 year old
house, the heating and hot water can operate seperately or together and
all the radiators are on the same zone.
It looks to have two valves in the airing cupboard one a switched valve
with a removable actuator and the other a (Honeywell) valve with a
galvanised cover.

My initial idea was that the actuator on the switched valva was faulty,
but now I am not so sure. I can replace this fairly easily, and if it
is this I dont want to call out a plumber and have to pay him for the
privilage.

any ideas on what might be wrong would be much appreciated
Cheers
Bole

Bole wrote:
Hello
I have had a problem with my hot water pump for the last few weeks -
it just wont cut out when the hot water or central heating timer
switches off.
The motorised valve seems to be working OK switches between hot water
and heating as normal and both the radiators and hot tank are being
heated.
A few times last week I was able to switch off the pump by manually
moving the lever on the motorised valve and letting it spring back, but
that action dosent work at all now and I cant get the pump to turn off,
except at the mains.
Some information about my system: it is a closed system in a 5 year old
house, the heating and hot water can operate seperately or together and
all the radiators are on the same zone.
It looks to have two valves in the airing cupboard one a switched valve
with a removable actuator and the other a (Honeywell) valve with a
galvanised cover.

My initial idea was that the actuator on the switched valva was faulty,
but now I am not so sure. I can replace this fairly easily, and if it
is this I dont want to call out a plumber and have to pay him for the
privilage.

any ideas on what might be wrong would be much appreciated
Cheers
Bole

On Fri, 23 Jun 2006 02:10:07 -0700, Bole wrote:

Hello
I have had a problem with my hot water pump for the last few weeks -
it just wont cut out when the hot water or central heating timer
switches off.
The motorised valve seems to be working OK switches between hot water
and heating as normal and both the radiators and hot tank are being
heated.
A few times last week I was able to switch off the pump by manually
moving the lever on the motorised valve and letting it spring back, but
that action dosent work at all now and I cant get the pump to turn off,
except at the mains.
Some information about my system: it is a closed system in a 5 year old
house, the heating and hot water can operate seperately or together and
all the radiators are on the same zone.
It looks to have two valves in the airing cupboard one a switched valve
with a removable actuator and the other a (Honeywell) valve with a
galvanised cover.

My initial idea was that the actuator on the switched valva was faulty,
but now I am not so sure. I can replace this fairly easily, and if it
is this I dont want to call out a plumber and have to pay him for the
privilage.

any ideas on what might be wrong would be much appreciated
Cheers
Bole

Sounds like the lever is bent (or some other trouble) so that after the
valve has correctly opened it does not shut of it's own accord.

The honeywell valves switch on at the end of the travel (beyond the manual
latching position) other make(s) switch on before the manual latching
position.

You might have a sticking valve on the plumbing side.
You might have a defective valve actuator.



--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards

In message .com, Bole
writes
Hello
I have had a problem with my hot water pump for the last few weeks -
it just wont cut out when the hot water or central heating timer
switches off.
Some information about my system:

The make and model of boiler would be up there with the rest of useful
things you could mention

e.g. pump not switching off is a common failure mode of the Baxi Solo 2
or 3 pcb

--
geoff

raden wrote:
In message .com, Bole
writes
Hello
I have had a problem with my hot water pump for the last few weeks -
it just wont cut out when the hot water or central heating timer
switches off.
Some information about my system:

The make and model of boiler would be up there with the rest of useful
things you could mention

e.g. pump not switching off is a common failure mode of the Baxi Solo 2
or 3 pcb

--
geoff

Thanks
the boiler is an Ideal Classic (wall hung boiler) FF230
and the motorised valve is a Drayton ZA5/679-2 Zone Valve
Bole

Ed Sirett wrote:


Sounds like the lever is bent (or some other trouble) so that after the
valve has correctly opened it does not shut of it's own accord.

The honeywell valves switch on at the end of the travel (beyond the manual
latching position) other make(s) switch on before the manual latching
position.

You might have a sticking valve on the plumbing side.
You might have a defective valve actuator.
--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards

Thanks
the motorised valve is a Drayton ZA5/679-2 Zone Valve
do these valves/actuators often have problems?
cheers
Bole

In message . com, Bole
writes

raden wrote:
In message .com, Bole
writes
Hello
I have had a problem with my hot water pump for the last few weeks -
it just wont cut out when the hot water or central heating timer
switches off.
Some information about my system:

The make and model of boiler would be up there with the rest of useful
things you could mention

e.g. pump not switching off is a common failure mode of the Baxi Solo 2
or 3 pcb

--
geoff

Thanks
the boiler is an Ideal Classic (wall hung boiler) FF230
and the motorised valve is a Drayton ZA5/679-2 Zone Valve
Bole

Then Ed's advice should be all you need, the pcb has no control over the
pump

--
geoff

Bole wrote:
Ed Sirett wrote:

Sounds like the lever is bent (or some other trouble) so that after the
valve has correctly opened it does not shut of it's own accord.

The honeywell valves switch on at the end of the travel (beyond the manual
latching position) other make(s) switch on before the manual latching
position.

You might have a sticking valve on the plumbing side.
You might have a defective valve actuator.
--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards

Thanks
the motorised valve is a Drayton ZA5/679-2 Zone Valve
do these valves/actuators often have problems?

I had one (honeywell) stick on my UFH...boy did the house get
hot..exactly same sypmtoms as yours..manual working sorted it a few
times. then it didn't. Replaced the whole head..not expensive.

cheers
Bole

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Bole wrote:
Ed Sirett wrote:

Sounds like the lever is bent (or some other trouble) so that after the
valve has correctly opened it does not shut of it's own accord.

The honeywell valves switch on at the end of the travel (beyond the manual
latching position) other make(s) switch on before the manual latching
position.

You might have a sticking valve on the plumbing side.
You might have a defective valve actuator.
--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards

Thanks
the motorised valve is a Drayton ZA5/679-2 Zone Valve
do these valves/actuators often have problems?

I had one (honeywell) stick on my UFH...boy did the house get
hot..exactly same sypmtoms as yours..manual working sorted it a few
times. then it didn't. Replaced the whole head..not expensive.

cheers
Bole

Thanks to all for your help, the gneral consensus seem to be the
motorised valve or the actuator. I will order both and replace the
actuator first, if that dosent work I will change the valve as well,
hopefully that will solve the problem.
Cheers
Bole

Just an update to close this thread. I have now replaced the detachable
actuator (£10 from e-bay!) and the problem has been solved. I didnt
need to replace the 2-way valve.
Thanks to all who gave their advice on this
Cheers
Bole

Bole wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Bole wrote:
Ed Sirett wrote:

Sounds like the lever is bent (or some other trouble) so that after the
valve has correctly opened it does not shut of it's own accord.

The honeywell valves switch on at the end of the travel (beyond the manual
latching position) other make(s) switch on before the manual latching
position.

You might have a sticking valve on the plumbing side.
You might have a defective valve actuator.
--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards

Thanks
the motorised valve is a Drayton ZA5/679-2 Zone Valve
do these valves/actuators often have problems?

I had one (honeywell) stick on my UFH...boy did the house get
hot..exactly same sypmtoms as yours..manual working sorted it a few
times. then it didn't. Replaced the whole head..not expensive.

cheers
Bole

Thanks to all for your help, the gneral consensus seem to be the
motorised valve or the actuator. I will order both and replace the
actuator first, if that dosent work I will change the valve as well,
hopefully that will solve the problem.
Cheers
Bole