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Zoe Zoe is offline
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Default Leaking Aqualisa 600 Cartridge Replacement?

Hello there, I'm sick of my shower head constantly dripping, so arrived here to solve it!

Ok, seems it could be the gasket, O rings or the cartridge (we been here 2 years so god knows when the cartidge was last replaced) so I have a few questions (some of which are probably silly and straight foward to most of you!)

1. which colour cartridge would I need, pink or grey? It is gravity fed, so the hot water comes from the tank and I assume the cold from the mains (stop cock) or tank in the loft?

2. I know how to turn the cold water off at the stop cock, but how do I stop the hot water (without draining the tank)? There is a red 'tap' next to the tank but I'm not sure if that is a 'turn off' tap for the hot water.

3. I obviously have to remove all old parts, I read here the last O ring is a pain to remove? Obviously if I don't get all the old parts out the new ones wont re-assemble properly.

4. The unit is hidden behind tiles, will I have to remove the 'backplate' behind the on/off knob and temp control too?

5. If I mess it up, will I be able to leave it as is and turn water back on so can have a bath instead whilst get a plumber booked in?! lol

Thanks for any advice!

Zoe
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Andy Hall
 
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Default Leaking Aqualisa 600 Cartridge Replacement?

On Sat, 20 May 2006 20:04:47 +0100, Zoe wrote
(in article ):


Hello there, I'm sick of my shower head constantly dripping, so arrived
here to solve it!

Ok, seems it could be the gasket, O rings or the cartridge (we been
here 2 years so god knows when the cartidge was last replaced) so I
have a few questions (some of which are probably silly and straight
foward to most of you!)

1. which colour cartridge would I need, pink or grey? It is gravity
fed, so the hot water comes from the tank and I assume the cold from
the mains (stop cock) or tank in the loft?


For low pressure it is the grey one. Pink is for mains pressure. Try to
trace the cold pipe to the shower. You should find two pipes at least
leaving the roof tank. One feeds the HW cylinder, the other should be the
shower, but try to identify them.

It should not be fed from the mains cold. Turn off the mains cold at the
stop tap and the shower should still run at normal temperature.

If it is being driven directly from the mains, this needs to be changed . For
this type of valve, both supplies should be from the tank, and almost
certainly are.


2. I know how to turn the cold water off at the stop cock, but how do
I stop the hot water (without draining the tank)? There is a red 'tap'
next to the tank but I'm not sure if that is a 'turn off' tap for the
hot water.


Is it on the hot side or is it on the pipe feeding the cylinder? There
should be a separate tap for hot and for cold - possibly it's in the loft?

Otherwise, you will need to drain the roof tank. Boiler off first.



3. I obviously have to remove all old parts, I read here the last O
ring is a pain to remove? Obviously if I don't get all the old parts
out the new ones wont re-assemble properly.


There is an O-ring at the back inside a tube in the centre. You will be able
to see it when you get the cartridge out. This should be replaced. Getting
it out is a swine. The crochet hook idea they suggest doesn't work. Either
use a long scalpel with sharp pointed blade to dig into the O-ring or a stout
darning needle attached to something to impale and remove it.
Fitting the replacement is much easier but don't use anything sharp for
that.Ladies have an advantage here with smaller hands than gentlemen.




4. The unit is hidden behind tiles, will I have to remove the
'backplate' behind the on/off knob and temp control too?


No. Take the front cap off of the on/off knob and then pull off the knob
with your fingers. It may be quite tight. This will reveal screws which
hold the temperature control lever in place. Remove these and you can get
to the cartridge. The cartridge comes with exploded diagrams.
There is a replacement O-ring for the on/off knob as well



5. If I mess it up, will I be able to leave it as is and turn water
back on so can have a bath instead whilst get a plumber booked in?!
lol


This is why you need to check that you have a way to turn off the water just
to the shower before committing to pulling it apart.

If you can't then you might prefer to get a plumber to do it and to fit
valves as well.

If you are buying a cartridge, do shop around. Prices for these range from
just over £60 to £120


Thanks for any advice!

Zoe





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Zoe Zoe is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 2
Default


1. which colour cartridge would I need, pink or grey? It is gravity
fed, so the hot water comes from the tank and I assume the cold from
the mains (stop cock) or tank in the loft?


For low pressure it is the grey one. Pink is for mains pressure. Try to
trace the cold pipe to the shower. You should find two pipes at least
leaving the roof tank. One feeds the HW cylinder, the other should be the
shower, but try to identify them.

It should not be fed from the mains cold. Turn off the mains cold at the
stop tap and the shower should still run at normal temperature.

If it is being driven directly from the mains, this needs to be changed . For
this type of valve, both supplies should be from the tank, and almost
certainly are.


Well I took the bath panel off and peered under the bath! There is hot pipe which goes to the bath tap and up to the shower, and two seperate cold pipes, one the bath cold tap and one going up the wall to shower. And I did see right under the bath on the hot pipe another red turn off tap, so hopefully the hot can be turned off just from there (if I can reach it!) so certainly looks cold fed from the loft.



2. I know how to turn the cold water off at the stop cock, but how do
I stop the hot water (without draining the tank)? There is a red 'tap'
next to the tank but I'm not sure if that is a 'turn off' tap for the
hot water.


Is it on the hot side or is it on the pipe feeding the cylinder? There
should be a separate tap for hot and for cold - possibly it's in the loft?

Otherwise, you will need to drain the roof tank. Boiler off first.



3. I obviously have to remove all old parts, I read here the last O
ring is a pain to remove? Obviously if I don't get all the old parts
out the new ones wont re-assemble properly.


There is an O-ring at the back inside a tube in the centre. You will be able
to see it when you get the cartridge out. This should be replaced. Getting
it out is a swine. The crochet hook idea they suggest doesn't work. Either
use a long scalpel with sharp pointed blade to dig into the O-ring or a stout
darning needle attached to something to impale and remove it.
Fitting the replacement is much easier but don't use anything sharp for
that.Ladies have an advantage here with smaller hands than gentlemen.




4. The unit is hidden behind tiles, will I have to remove the
'backplate' behind the on/off knob and temp control too?


No. Take the front cap off of the on/off knob and then pull off the knob
with your fingers. It may be quite tight. This will reveal screws which
hold the temperature control lever in place. Remove these and you can get
to the cartridge. The cartridge comes with exploded diagrams.
There is a replacement O-ring for the on/off knob as well



5. If I mess it up, will I be able to leave it as is and turn water
back on so can have a bath instead whilst get a plumber booked in?!
lol


This is why you need to check that you have a way to turn off the water just
to the shower before committing to pulling it apart.
Looks like if turn hot off it turns the bath hot off too, so I think I'll be in trouble if can't do the job! Though it looks *crosses fingers* fairly straight forward
If you can't then you might prefer to get a plumber to do it and to fit
valves as well.
thanks for your help, I'm a bit dubious about attempting it lol


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