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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Hi there,
I would like to build a garden wall that will be adjoining my neighbours front garden. As there has never been a wall here, how would I go about measuring/drawing a line that accurately (and fairly) is straight down the middle between our 2 properties. The wall will be roughly 16 feet by around 4-5 foot high. I have considered about using a laser pointing device, but am not too sure how I would calibrate/level this to get a accurate reading. My other plan would be to a make a square frame and align this outwards from my rectangular bay window and then taking measurements between the bay and the centre point between the two properties and then projecting this measurement at the other end of the frame. At the pavement end there is no post or markings where the centre line is. I would really appreaciate any advice if there was any other method employed used to work this out, that was foolproof and could be demonstrated to produce the same result every time in case of any future issues. Many thanks Naz |
#2
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![]() nazn wrote: I would like to build a garden wall that will be adjoining my neighbours front garden. As there has never been a wall here, how would I go about measuring/drawing a line that accurately (and fairly) is straight down the middle between our 2 properties. The wall will be roughly 16 feet by around 4-5 foot high. I have considered about using a laser pointing device, but am not too sure how I would calibrate/level this to get a accurate reading. My other plan would be to a make a square frame and align this outwards from my rectangular bay window and then taking measurements between the bay and the centre point between the two properties and then projecting this measurement at the other end of the frame. At the pavement end there is no post or markings where the centre line is. I would really appreciate any advice if there was any other method employed used to work this out, that was foolproof and could be demonstrated to produce the same result every time in case of any future issues. First of all you need to establish where the legal ownership of the land is. Consult the deeds. Then you need to decide if you are better off without this clarity made available to all. (You may find a lot less of the property than you currently assume, is actually yours. Then what will you do?) With agreement from the neighbour, you select two datums, one each end of the border and stretch out a line along it. Mark the line with sand and dig down about 18 inches to lay a 6" deep 9" wide pad of concrete all in one pour along the flat, level, bottom of the trench. Check the measurements again and get agreement on them, before the pour. If you only have a small mixer, measure out the mix in advance -if you have enough buckets, or make a plie of dry-mixed ingredients, that only requires shovelling back into the mixer and wetting, when you decide to go for it. |
#3
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![]() "Weatherlawyer" wrote in message oups.com... nazn wrote: I would like to build a garden wall that will be adjoining my neighbours front garden. As there has never been a wall here, how would I go about measuring/drawing a line that accurately (and fairly) is straight down the middle between our 2 properties. The wall will be roughly 16 feet by around 4-5 foot high. I have considered about using a laser pointing device, but am not too sure how I would calibrate/level this to get a accurate reading. My other plan would be to a make a square frame and align this outwards from my rectangular bay window and then taking measurements between the bay and the centre point between the two properties and then projecting this measurement at the other end of the frame. At the pavement end there is no post or markings where the centre line is. I would really appreciate any advice if there was any other method employed used to work this out, that was foolproof and could be demonstrated to produce the same result every time in case of any future issues. First of all you need to establish where the legal ownership of the land is. Consult the deeds. Then you need to decide if you are better off without this clarity made available to all. (You may find a lot less of the property than you currently assume, is actually yours. Then what will you do?) With agreement from the neighbour, you select two datums, one each end of the border and stretch out a line along it. Mark the line with sand and dig down about 18 inches to lay a 6" deep 9" wide pad of concrete all in one pour along the flat, level, bottom of the trench. Check the measurements again and get agreement on them, before the pour. If you only have a small mixer, measure out the mix in advance -if you have enough buckets, or make a plie of dry-mixed ingredients, that only requires shovelling back into the mixer and wetting, when you decide to go for it. Depending on your neighbour, this 9" wide pad of concrete may straddle the boundary as a party wall - more likely you will be reauired to have it all on your side (as you wanted it). Best to get these things sorted before you start. Sometimes giving an inch can prevent a lifetime of aggro, even if it does go against the grain. -- Bob Mannix (anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not) |
#4
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nazn wrote:
I would like to build a garden wall that will be adjoining my neighbours front garden. As there has never been a wall here, how would I go about measuring/drawing a line that accurately (and fairly) is straight down the middle between our 2 properties. The wall will be roughly 16 feet by around 4-5 foot high. I have considered about using a laser pointing device, but am not too sure how I would calibrate/level this to get a accurate reading. My other plan would be to a make a square frame and align this outwards from my rectangular bay window and then taking measurements between the bay and the centre point between the two properties and then projecting this measurement at the other end of the frame. At the pavement end there is no post or markings where the centre line is. I would really appreaciate any advice if there was any other method employed used to work this out, that was foolproof and could be demonstrated to produce the same result every time in case of any future issues. Marking out is only part of the problem. Once you've agreed it with your neighbour (including who owns the wall; will it be built entirely on your ground), you've got to ensure that it's safe (that's quite a high wall), and that you will not get problems from the council, who may get ratty if it's over a metre high next to the path. |
#5
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nazn wrote:
Hi there, I would like to build a garden wall that will be adjoining my neighbours front garden. As there has never been a wall here, how would I go about measuring/drawing a line that accurately (and fairly) is straight down the middle between our 2 properties. The wall will be roughly 16 feet by around 4-5 foot high. Stick posts in and strectch a string and move it till the neighbour agrees its fair, if he is a decent bloke. If hes a ****, get a surveyor in, and a lawyer, and a registered plan of the property, or consider tipping the neighbor the cost of the above. Getting him to sign a bit of paper agreeing that its fairly placed may save trouble in the future. I have considered about using a laser pointing device, but am not too sure how I would calibrate/level this to get a accurate reading. My other plan would be to a make a square frame and align this outwards from my rectangular bay window and then taking measurements between the bay and the centre point between the two properties and then projecting this measurement at the other end of the frame. Nothing says that your ground has to be flat, nor that your house is exactly aligned to the boundary. A long spirit level propped up on anything will set a level, and align the string to it by eye. I have used posts hammered in with the level resting along the top. Then string up so that the tops of both posts are JUST clipped by the string. Howver thats just for te wall top..in practice you need to start by laying a foundation and getting that more or less level, then string up to the first couyrse height, and used variable mortar beds to get that level. Repeat for every couple of courses. In practice you end up with a pair of posts at each end that you move the string up and down on, making sure that every other course or so is level Check the wall is perpendicular too as you lay the bricks. For amateurs like us, bricklaying means using the spirit level ALL the time. Pro brikkies just do it by eye, checking only occasionally. At the pavement end there is no post or markings where the centre line is. I would really appreaciate any advice if there was any other method employed used to work this out, that was foolproof and could be demonstrated to produce the same result every time in case of any future issues. There is no magic. Boundaries are where two people mutually decide, or where a court on consideration of the written evidence, decides, they are. I had to replant a hedge. I got my farmer neighbour to come along and drive posts where he thought the boundary should go. Then he went away, and I looked at the line, corrected them by about 9" where he had been a bit greedy, and but my hedge in. He has never been back to check, and it looks right, so there is no dispute. The secret of life is to assess first, let people think they are winning, and do your own thing. Do you care whether you gain or lose 5 " of garden? No. Your deeds should have it all measured out if you can be arsed. Otherwise talk to neighbour, and come up with a mutually acceptable plane. After 12 years without dispute IIRC its de facto the boundary anyway. Many thanks Naz |
#6
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Thanks for all the replies,
I have a good relationship with my neighbour, they have only recently moved in and are happy for the work to go ahead. I have suggested that the wall would need to be built from the centre point between our two properties, the gap between our front doors is 14inches. I have calcualted for a 9inch wall thus requiring around 5in from either side. My problem is working out a datum at the garden entrance (there are no gates!), I can see this being the area of contention as I would like the wall to be near as dammit 90 degrees from the house wall, its how I achieve this easily that is taking up the time. Many thanks Naz |
#7
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They're happy for you to build your wall on their ground? Coo!
It's not really 'my' wall as such. it will be a dividing garden wall as seen on many properties. The reason I am building it is because last year they had the dividing rear garden wall re-built at thier expense as part of some work they were having done on their house before they moved in. I was asked for half the costs and decided to stay out of thier current deal with the builders and agreed that I would build the front garden wall. Seemed like a good idea at the time! If the walls are straight, it's easy to go out at 90 degrees using a 345 triangle. I just assumed the house walls would be straight and hence my plan to build at 90 degrees, what is a 345 triangle?, I expect this is 3 pieces of timber I would lash up to make the triangle to put against the house walls?? Thanks Naz |
#8
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nazn wrote:
Thanks for all the replies, I have a good relationship with my neighbour, they have only recently moved in and are happy for the work to go ahead. I have suggested that the wall would need to be built from the centre point between our two properties, the gap between our front doors is 14inches. I have calcualted for a 9inch wall thus requiring around 5in from either side. My problem is working out a datum at the garden entrance (there are no gates!), I can see this being the area of contention as I would like the wall to be near as dammit 90 degrees from the house wall, its how I achieve this easily that is taking up the time. Pythagoras is your friend. 3-4-5 meter triangle is a right angle. Just fiddle till it comes right. All you need is a 5 meter tape. Many thanks Naz |
#9
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nazn wrote:
CB wrote: If the walls are straight, it's easy to go out at 90 degrees using a 345 triangle. I just assumed the house walls would be straight and hence my plan to build at 90 degrees, what is a 345 triangle?, I expect this is 3 pieces of timber I would lash up to make the triangle to put against the house walls?? You could do that... mark three pieces of timber with lengths of 3, 4, and 5 units. Nail together. Use this triangle as a set-square. You could probably use a large home-made pair of compasses to do the same job, just as we did in early trig. at school. You are posting from Google Groups. There's some way of including context in your posts, which would be quite helpful. |
#10
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In article .com,
nazn wrote: I just assumed the house walls would be straight and hence my plan to build at 90 degrees, what is a 345 triangle?, I expect this is 3 pieces of timber I would lash up to make the triangle to put against the house walls?? Education these days!! ;-(( Take a length of string and make knots in it at regular intervals of say approx every yard. The exact measurement doesn't matter as long as the gap between every knot is the same. Distance from one knot to the next is a length. You will need 13 knots making 12 lengths. Put the first knot by the house at the centre point. Line the first three lengths along the wall and get someone to hold the first knot and the fourth knot by the wall. Give the person holding the first knot the line with the last knot and tell them to hold the two together. Measure out 4 lengths out from the centre of the house (other end of the string) and you will find that the triangle of string will be taut when the 4 lengths are at right angles to the wall. Mark where the knot at the end of those 4 lengths lands. Do exactly the same but this time measuring the three lengths in the opposite direction from the centre. If your measurements are right the new marked point should be the same as the first - if it's slightly out take the average. Mark a line going through that point. -- John Cartmell john@ followed by finnybank.com 0845 006 8822 Qercus magazine FAX +44 (0)8700-519-527 www.finnybank.com Qercus - the best guide to RISC OS computing |
#11
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The message .com
from "nazn" contains these words: I just assumed the house walls would be straight falls of chair laughing You've not done this before, have you? -- Skipweasel Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain. |
#12
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![]() nazn wrote: My problem is working out a datum at the garden entrance (there are no gates!), I can see this being the area of contention as I would like the wall to be near as dammit 90 degrees from the house wall, its how I achieve this easily that is taking up the time. Your conveyancing document will describe the layout of your plot. [If you're lucky there will be a plan of the plot; if not there will be a word-portrait of the plot ... having a frontage of nnn feet on the south side and a depth of nnn feet ...etc.] There is insufficeint information in your posting for anybody to deduce whether or not the boundary of _your_ conveyed land plot is at right angles to your house. Check that your 'line' equates to your conveyance boundary ... it's feasible that _your_ plot is a itsy-titsy thin triangle ... ![]() -- Brian |
#13
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In article .com
nazn wrote: Hi there, I would like to build a garden wall that will be adjoining my neighbours front garden. As there has never been a wall here, how would I go about measuring/drawing a line that accurately (and fairly) is straight down the middle between our 2 properties. The wall will be roughly 16 feet by around 4-5 foot high. I have considered about using a laser pointing device, but am not too sure how I would calibrate/level this to get a accurate reading. My other plan would be to a make a square frame and align this outwards from my rectangular bay window and then taking measurements between the bay and the centre point between the two properties and then projecting this measurement at the other end of the frame. At the pavement end there is no post or markings where the centre line is. I would really appreaciate any advice if there was any other method employed used to work this out, that was foolproof and could be demonstrated to produce the same result every time in case of any future issues. On the plan attached to the deeds, does the dividing line look straight from the back of the house to the front of the front garden? Are the two houses level at the front (in plan view)? If so you should be able to measure (for example) 10 feet along each house front, then 20 feet to where you think the boundary is - the point that is 20 feet from the two positions on the front of the houses will be square with the front. | | ______________|__________________ \ | / \ | / \ | / \ | / \ | / \ | / \ | / \ | / \|/ Stick a nail in the wall where the houses meet, stick a post in the ground where the measurements meet, and run a bit of string between them :-) |
#14
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Learn the pros and cons of posting to news groups by researching
Nettiquette. |
#15
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![]() "nazn" wrote in message oups.com... Thanks for all the replies, I have a good relationship with my neighbour, they have only recently moved in and are happy for the work to go ahead. I have suggested that the wall would need to be built from the centre point between our two properties, the gap between our front doors is 14inches. I have calcualted for a 9inch wall thus requiring around 5in from either side. My problem is working out a datum at the garden entrance (there are no gates!), I can see this being the area of contention as I would like the wall to be near as dammit 90 degrees from the house wall, its how I achieve this easily that is taking up the time. Many thanks Naz Simplest way is to get a very long ball of string and triangulate. mrcheerful |
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