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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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question for raden or andy
what is the best flue gas anyliser in your opinions/experience, make and
model? |
#2
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question for raden or andy
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Gav ""gavbriggs\"@[cut the spam]blueyonder.co.uk" saying something like: what is the best flue gas anyliser in your opinions/experience, make and model? Without a doubt, the Kane 400, but they're not cheap. -- Dave |
#3
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question for raden or andy
In message , Gav writes
what is the best flue gas anyliser in your opinions/experience, make and model? Sorry, no idea Ed might be the best one to answer this -- geoff |
#4
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question for raden or andy
On Thu, 27 Apr 2006 21:46:23 +0000, raden wrote:
In message , Gav writes what is the best flue gas anyliser in your opinions/experience, make and model? Sorry, no idea Ed might be the best one to answer this Mine's a Kane 400. It cost £400 to buy. It costs £200 every other year to keep running, apart from the fact that I ought to have the machine calibrated from time to time the O2 cell lasts about two years. So as soon as it fails to initialize I send it to Kane. I rarely use the digital manometer. I never use the temp probes I use the CO2 + CO/CO2 readings all the while. I don't have or need the printer It does not do NOx or smoke, which I understand is important for oil burners. It may well be that a Kane 250 which only has the gas analyser (and maybe the temp - I haven't taken note of the spec) would work for me just aswell. -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html |
#5
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question for raden or andy
In article .uk,
Ed Sirett writes: Mine's a Kane 400. It cost £400 to buy. It costs £200 every other year to keep running, apart from the fact that I ought to have the machine calibrated from time to time the O2 cell lasts about two years. So as soon as it fails to initialize I send it to Kane. I rarely use the digital manometer. I never use the temp probes I use the CO2 + CO/CO2 readings all the while. I don't have or need the printer It does not do NOx or smoke, which I understand is important for oil burners. It may well be that a Kane 250 which only has the gas analyser (and maybe the temp - I haven't taken note of the spec) would work for me just aswell. I have the 250, and I believe it has everything you need (and more) to do a gas boiler service. It does have temperature probe. If you are not in a hurry for one, just keep an eye out over some months for special offers. IIRC, mine came from BES. This is something I wouldn't risk buying second-hand, at least not without factoring in a service by Kane, and the possibility of finding you bought an unrepairable one, which means it would have to be almost free in the first place as far as I'm concerned. BTW Ed, I thought it was the CO monitor which had the limited life? Mine's about 16 months old but doesn't get anywhere near the usage a gas engineer's one would. It is still initialising in about 15 seconds, which is what it was when new, so it may be dependant on use. (When it takes more than 60 seconds, the sensor is regarded as worn out.) I also saw a suggestion somewhere that life is significantly lengthened if you make sure you purge all the CO from the sensor before you switch off. The unit tries to do this anyway, but I don't even attempt to turn it off (or turn off the air pump) until CO reading has dropped to 1 or 0 ppm. Don't really know if that helps though. I also keep it in a sealed plastic bag when not in use, to help avoid background contaminents slowly degrading the sensors, although again, I don't know if that makes any difference, but it would be less so anyway for one which was frequently used. -- Andrew Gabriel |
#6
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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question for raden or andy
On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 08:54:52 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article .uk, Ed Sirett writes: Mine's a Kane 400. It cost £400 to buy. It costs £200 every other year to keep running, apart from the fact that I ought to have the machine calibrated from time to time the O2 cell lasts about two years. So as soon as it fails to initialize I send it to Kane. I rarely use the digital manometer. I never use the temp probes I use the CO2 + CO/CO2 readings all the while. I don't have or need the printer It does not do NOx or smoke, which I understand is important for oil burners. It may well be that a Kane 250 which only has the gas analyser (and maybe the temp - I haven't taken note of the spec) would work for me just aswell. I have the 250, and I believe it has everything you need (and more) to do a gas boiler service. It does have temperature probe. If you are not in a hurry for one, just keep an eye out over some months for special offers. IIRC, mine came from BES. This is something I wouldn't risk buying second-hand, at least not without factoring in a service by Kane, and the possibility of finding you bought an unrepairable one, which means it would have to be almost free in the first place as far as I'm concerned. BTW Ed, I thought it was the CO monitor which had the limited life? Mine's about 16 months old but doesn't get anywhere near the usage a gas engineer's one would. It is still initialising in about 15 seconds, which is what it was when new, so it may be dependant on use. (When it takes more than 60 seconds, the sensor is regarded as worn out.) I also saw a suggestion somewhere that life is significantly lengthened if you make sure you purge all the CO from the sensor before you switch off. The unit tries to do this anyway, but I don't even attempt to turn it off (or turn off the air pump) until CO reading has dropped to 1 or 0 ppm. Don't really know if that helps though. I also keep it in a sealed plastic bag when not in use, to help avoid background contaminents slowly degrading the sensors, although again, I don't know if that makes any difference, but it would be less so anyway for one which was frequently used. Those are helpful points. Although I can image much gas getting into it when it's switched off. The first time I had trouble it just took longer and longer to initialize. The second time I had trouble it took over the normal twenty seconds once and the next time it failed to initialize even with new batts. The real fun comes when the alarm goes off when the CO is over 1000(?)ppm. I have been to two boilers when that has happened. On the first one the conversation went along the lines. "Are you going to let me use the heating again?". "No way. The condemn notice is staying put." (I had been called in to give a second opinion). "Do you want to talk about a new boiler?". "No. I'll keep on using my paraffin heaters." -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html |
#7
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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question for raden or andy
Ed Sirett wrote:
On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 08:54:52 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote: In article .uk, Ed Sirett writes: Mine's a Kane 400. It cost £400 to buy. It costs £200 every other year to keep running, apart from the fact that I ought to have the machine calibrated from time to time the O2 cell lasts about two years. So as soon as it fails to initialize I send it to Kane. I rarely use the digital manometer. I never use the temp probes I use the CO2 + CO/CO2 readings all the while. I don't have or need the printer It does not do NOx or smoke, which I understand is important for oil burners. It may well be that a Kane 250 which only has the gas analyser (and maybe the temp - I haven't taken note of the spec) would work for me just aswell. I have the 250, and I believe it has everything you need (and more) to do a gas boiler service. It does have temperature probe. If you are not in a hurry for one, just keep an eye out over some months for special offers. IIRC, mine came from BES. This is something I wouldn't risk buying second-hand, at least not without factoring in a service by Kane, and the possibility of finding you bought an unrepairable one, which means it would have to be almost free in the first place as far as I'm concerned. BTW Ed, I thought it was the CO monitor which had the limited life? Mine's about 16 months old but doesn't get anywhere near the usage a gas engineer's one would. It is still initialising in about 15 seconds, which is what it was when new, so it may be dependant on use. (When it takes more than 60 seconds, the sensor is regarded as worn out.) I also saw a suggestion somewhere that life is significantly lengthened if you make sure you purge all the CO from the sensor before you switch off. The unit tries to do this anyway, but I don't even attempt to turn it off (or turn off the air pump) until CO reading has dropped to 1 or 0 ppm. Don't really know if that helps though. I also keep it in a sealed plastic bag when not in use, to help avoid background contaminents slowly degrading the sensors, although again, I don't know if that makes any difference, but it would be less so anyway for one which was frequently used. Those are helpful points. Although I can image much gas getting into it when it's switched off. The first time I had trouble it just took longer and longer to initialize. The second time I had trouble it took over the normal twenty seconds once and the next time it failed to initialize even with new batts. The real fun comes when the alarm goes off when the CO is over 1000(?)ppm. I have been to two boilers when that has happened. On the first one the conversation went along the lines. "Are you going to let me use the heating again?". "No way. The condemn notice is staying put." (I had been called in to give a second opinion). "Do you want to talk about a new boiler?". "No. I'll keep on using my paraffin heaters." cheers ed, interesting, i didn't know they were so high maintenance objects! are they a needed piece of kit or just a glorified toy to make things simple? with todays trend towards zero govenors and room sealed appliances is there any point going that deep into things, most of the time the manufacturers want you/customer to buy a new appliance. i think soon it will be easier and possibly cheaper to throw the old out and get new in. |
#8
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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question for raden or andy
On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 23:23:37 +0000, Gav wrote:
Ed Sirett wrote: On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 08:54:52 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote: In article .uk, Ed Sirett writes: Mine's a Kane 400. It cost £400 to buy. It costs £200 every other year to keep running, apart from the fact that I ought to have the machine calibrated from time to time the O2 cell lasts about two years. So as soon as it fails to initialize I send it to Kane. I rarely use the digital manometer. I never use the temp probes I use the CO2 + CO/CO2 readings all the while. I don't have or need the printer It does not do NOx or smoke, which I understand is important for oil burners. It may well be that a Kane 250 which only has the gas analyser (and maybe the temp - I haven't taken note of the spec) would work for me just aswell. I have the 250, and I believe it has everything you need (and more) to do a gas boiler service. It does have temperature probe. If you are not in a hurry for one, just keep an eye out over some months for special offers. IIRC, mine came from BES. This is something I wouldn't risk buying second-hand, at least not without factoring in a service by Kane, and the possibility of finding you bought an unrepairable one, which means it would have to be almost free in the first place as far as I'm concerned. BTW Ed, I thought it was the CO monitor which had the limited life? Mine's about 16 months old but doesn't get anywhere near the usage a gas engineer's one would. It is still initialising in about 15 seconds, which is what it was when new, so it may be dependant on use. (When it takes more than 60 seconds, the sensor is regarded as worn out.) I also saw a suggestion somewhere that life is significantly lengthened if you make sure you purge all the CO from the sensor before you switch off. The unit tries to do this anyway, but I don't even attempt to turn it off (or turn off the air pump) until CO reading has dropped to 1 or 0 ppm. Don't really know if that helps though. I also keep it in a sealed plastic bag when not in use, to help avoid background contaminents slowly degrading the sensors, although again, I don't know if that makes any difference, but it would be less so anyway for one which was frequently used. Those are helpful points. Although I can image much gas getting into it when it's switched off. The first time I had trouble it just took longer and longer to initialize. The second time I had trouble it took over the normal twenty seconds once and the next time it failed to initialize even with new batts. The real fun comes when the alarm goes off when the CO is over 1000(?)ppm. I have been to two boilers when that has happened. On the first one the conversation went along the lines. "Are you going to let me use the heating again?". "No way. The condemn notice is staying put." (I had been called in to give a second opinion). "Do you want to talk about a new boiler?". "No. I'll keep on using my paraffin heaters." cheers ed, interesting, i didn't know they were so high maintenance objects! are they a needed piece of kit or just a glorified toy to make things simple? with todays trend towards zero govenors and room sealed appliances is there any point going that deep into things, most of the time the manufacturers want you/customer to buy a new appliance. i think soon it will be easier and possibly cheaper to throw the old out and get new in. Room sealed boilers have been common place for a very long time. The real issue is that a) quite a few boilers don't seem to be tuned up correctly right out of the box. This may be due to the influence of the huge equivalent flue lengths that can be used (especially on Kestons). My experience with Vaillants is that they generally are fine but then again the flue is always a 'standard' through the wall job. b) It gives me an option to choose whether to overhaul a burner when doing a routine service. If a boiler gives 0.4% or more for the CO/CO2 ratio then I will strip it down. c) Some boilers don't have any way of observing the flames so without this tool there is no way to check the combustion and thus comply with the spirit of the gas regs on commissioning. Whereas trying to check by measuring the gas rate has pitfalls and is time consuming. As outlined in the Boiler Choice FAQ the cost of installing a boiler together with the typical purchase cost of an average or better unit means that boilers are not disposable items like low end TVs or W/Machines. -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html |
#9
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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question for raden or andy
In article ,
Gav ""gavbriggs\"@[cut the spam]blueyonder.co.uk" writes: cheers ed, interesting, i didn't know they were so high maintenance objects! are they a needed piece of kit or just a glorified toy to make things simple? with todays trend towards zero govenors and room sealed appliances is there any point going that deep into things, most of the time the manufacturers want you/customer to buy a new appliance. i think soon it will be easier and possibly cheaper to throw the old out and get new in. I found it essential for getting my Keston Celcius 25 setup properly. The claims in the manual that the mixture was correctly adjusted prior to leaving the factory were so far off that it didn't operate correctly until adjusted. OTOH, lots of CORGI engineers seem to manage without one. If you are just installing one boiler, you would possibly be better off hiring one when you do the commissioning. If you are servicing a few boilers a year around your family, then it may be worthwhile to buy one, although once the mixture is right, I've never found a boiler needs any more adjustment on a subsequent service. -- Andrew Gabriel |
#10
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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question for raden or andy
Ed Sirett wrote:
On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 23:23:37 +0000, Gav wrote: Ed Sirett wrote: On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 08:54:52 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote: In article .uk, Ed Sirett writes: Mine's a Kane 400. It cost £400 to buy. It costs £200 every other year to keep running, apart from the fact that I ought to have the machine calibrated from time to time the O2 cell lasts about two years. So as soon as it fails to initialize I send it to Kane. I rarely use the digital manometer. I never use the temp probes I use the CO2 + CO/CO2 readings all the while. I don't have or need the printer It does not do NOx or smoke, which I understand is important for oil burners. It may well be that a Kane 250 which only has the gas analyser (and maybe the temp - I haven't taken note of the spec) would work for me just aswell. I have the 250, and I believe it has everything you need (and more) to do a gas boiler service. It does have temperature probe. If you are not in a hurry for one, just keep an eye out over some months for special offers. IIRC, mine came from BES. This is something I wouldn't risk buying second-hand, at least not without factoring in a service by Kane, and the possibility of finding you bought an unrepairable one, which means it would have to be almost free in the first place as far as I'm concerned. BTW Ed, I thought it was the CO monitor which had the limited life? Mine's about 16 months old but doesn't get anywhere near the usage a gas engineer's one would. It is still initialising in about 15 seconds, which is what it was when new, so it may be dependant on use. (When it takes more than 60 seconds, the sensor is regarded as worn out.) I also saw a suggestion somewhere that life is significantly lengthened if you make sure you purge all the CO from the sensor before you switch off. The unit tries to do this anyway, but I don't even attempt to turn it off (or turn off the air pump) until CO reading has dropped to 1 or 0 ppm. Don't really know if that helps though. I also keep it in a sealed plastic bag when not in use, to help avoid background contaminents slowly degrading the sensors, although again, I don't know if that makes any difference, but it would be less so anyway for one which was frequently used. Those are helpful points. Although I can image much gas getting into it when it's switched off. The first time I had trouble it just took longer and longer to initialize. The second time I had trouble it took over the normal twenty seconds once and the next time it failed to initialize even with new batts. The real fun comes when the alarm goes off when the CO is over 1000(?)ppm. I have been to two boilers when that has happened. On the first one the conversation went along the lines. "Are you going to let me use the heating again?". "No way. The condemn notice is staying put." (I had been called in to give a second opinion). "Do you want to talk about a new boiler?". "No. I'll keep on using my paraffin heaters." cheers ed, interesting, i didn't know they were so high maintenance objects! are they a needed piece of kit or just a glorified toy to make things simple? with todays trend towards zero govenors and room sealed appliances is there any point going that deep into things, most of the time the manufacturers want you/customer to buy a new appliance. i think soon it will be easier and possibly cheaper to throw the old out and get new in. Room sealed boilers have been common place for a very long time. The real issue is that a) quite a few boilers don't seem to be tuned up correctly right out of the box. This may be due to the influence of the huge equivalent flue lengths that can be used (especially on Kestons). My experience with Vaillants is that they generally are fine but then again the flue is always a 'standard' through the wall job. b) It gives me an option to choose whether to overhaul a burner when doing a routine service. If a boiler gives 0.4% or more for the CO/CO2 ratio then I will strip it down. c) Some boilers don't have any way of observing the flames so without this tool there is no way to check the combustion and thus comply with the spirit of the gas regs on commissioning. Whereas trying to check by measuring the gas rate has pitfalls and is time consuming. As outlined in the Boiler Choice FAQ the cost of installing a boiler together with the typical purchase cost of an average or better unit means that boilers are not disposable items like low end TVs or W/Machines. best to have one really i think now as time cost and reliability of gas rating etc are not as good as the machines! note to self: save all the spare change you can get to buy a kane gas analyser |
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