There are no trickle vents in the uPVC window in my bedroom. 2.5m wide
x about 1.2m high.
Consequently, on winter mornings, there is a lot of condensation on the
windows. This is due to water vapour exhaled during sleeping. It's
amazing how much there is -- I have to sponge the windows down and then
leave the casement open during the day.

I am thinking of fitting one or two white plastic trickle vents. I
presume it is just a matter of drilling a few small holes through the
frame?
Any suppliers on line or in the high street? Wickes have some trickle
vents but they are for wooden windows, as far as I can see.

Anyone done this? Is it a DIY job or best left to someone who installs
uPVC windows?

Thanks,
Bruce

wrote:
There are no trickle vents in the uPVC window in my bedroom. 2.5m wide
x about 1.2m high.
Consequently, on winter mornings, there is a lot of condensation on the
windows. This is due to water vapour exhaled during sleeping. It's
amazing how much there is -- I have to sponge the windows down and then
leave the casement open during the day.

I am thinking of fitting one or two white plastic trickle vents. I
presume it is just a matter of drilling a few small holes through the
frame?
Any suppliers on line or in the high street? Wickes have some trickle
vents but they are for wooden windows, as far as I can see.

Anyone done this? Is it a DIY job or best left to someone who installs
uPVC windows?

Thanks,
Bruce

Consider a 4" hole through the wall and a 'hit and miss' vent instead..

wrote in message
oups.com...
There are no trickle vents in the uPVC window in my bedroom. 2.5m wide
x about 1.2m high.
Consequently, on winter mornings, there is a lot of condensation on the
windows. This is due to water vapour exhaled during sleeping. It's
amazing how much there is -- I have to sponge the windows down and then
leave the casement open during the day.

I am thinking of fitting one or two white plastic trickle vents. I
presume it is just a matter of drilling a few small holes through the
frame?
Any suppliers on line or in the high street? Wickes have some trickle
vents but they are for wooden windows, as far as I can see.

Anyone done this? Is it a DIY job or best left to someone who installs
uPVC windows?

Thanks,
Bruce

==================
Check the locks to see if the windows can be locked in a partly open
position (about 1/4"). This appears to be the modern way of providing
trickle venting.

Cic.

wrote:


Anyone done this? Is it a DIY job or best left to someone who installs
uPVC windows?

Thanks,
Bruce


No, and No.

Vents are normally fitted into the head of the frame.

Yours will be reinforced (steel or aluminium) and cutting into this is
not to be recommended.

The other suggestions in this thread are more appropriate.


--
"S'ils te mordent, mords-les"

In message .com,
writes
There are no trickle vents in the uPVC window in my bedroom. 2.5m wide
x about 1.2m high.
Consequently, on winter mornings, there is a lot of condensation on the
windows. This is due to water vapour exhaled during sleeping. It's
amazing how much there is -- I have to sponge the windows down and then
leave the casement open during the day.


I'm not convinced it's exhaled water vapour. We never had significant
condensation in out last house on the UPVC DG windows.

Do you have decent ventilation to the bathroom and the kitchen, where
most vapour originates? We had a humidistat controlled extractor in the
bathroom and a normal cooker hood type thing in the kitchen
--
Chris French

Its a bungalow, so all rooms are adjacent.

Bathroom -- I always open the window and wipe down tiles after a bath.
Kitchen -- I open the door and/or window if there is any steam.

All internal doors are closed at night. So I think it must be exhaled
water vapour.
Radiator is under bedroom window, but CH is switched off an hour before
bedtime.

Looks like drilling into the window is not recommended, then....

Bruce

No, I don't believe they can do this.

Bruce

wrote:

Looks like drilling into the window is not recommended, then....

Well.... We have the same problem. My brother out-law is a window fitter
and sent half a dozen trickle vents to us. Didn't say it would present
any problems, and the vents on our UPVC patio doors in the bedroom are
fitted to the top of the door part rather than the frame part.

This is where I am going to put ours, as and when I can get round to it.
Looking around other houses in the area, they are all fitted to the
"window" rather than the frame.

Though, I couldn't find any source of the vents anywhere. Perhaps if you
have a local UPVC company they would be able to sell you (or give you)
some. (You could try bluffing them with the fact you may be wanting to
change half a dozen windows later in the year to get a freebie)

:¬)

--
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"Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)" wrote:


Well.... We have the same problem. My brother out-law is a window
fitter and sent half a dozen trickle vents to us. Didn't say it would
present any problems, and the vents on our UPVC patio doors in the
bedroom are fitted to the top of the door part rather than the frame
part.



The vents in your patio door were probably fitted in the factory, so
the reinforcement would be cut before insertion.


This is where I am going to put ours, as and when I can get round to
it. Looking around other houses in the area, they are all fitted to
the "window" rather than the frame.



A retro-fit into the top of a side-hung opening sash might be OK
because it is unlikely to wide enough to require reinforcement. A
profile less than 60mm could be too slim for the vent.
A (well made) top-hung sash more than 750mm wide will have steel in the
top.


--
"S'ils te mordent, mords-les"

On 6 Apr 2006 06:10:03 -0700, a particular chimpanzee named
randomly hit the keyboard and produced:

There are no trickle vents in the uPVC window in my bedroom. 2.5m wide
x about 1.2m high.

I am thinking of fitting one or two white plastic trickle vents. I
presume it is just a matter of drilling a few small holes through the
frame?

For the reasons already explained, perhaps not the best option.

Consider instead, some form of passive stack or mechanical whole-house
ventilation instead; http://www.passivent.com/ for example.
--
Hugo Nebula
"If no-one on the internet wants a piece of this,
just how far from the pack have you strayed?"

Consider instead, some form of passive stack or mechanical whole-house
ventilation

How much is this going to cost me?

It might be easiest if I just slept with the window open.

Bruce

wrote:
Consider instead, some form of passive stack or mechanical whole-house
ventilation

How much is this going to cost me?

It might be easiest if I just slept with the window open.

It is indeed. However the BCO will tell you that leaving windows open is
a security risk, and insist on some form of thiefproof ventilation at
ground floor level, and probably above it too.,


Bruce

On 10 Apr 2006 01:08:52 -0700, a particular chimpanzee named
randomly hit the keyboard and produced:

Consider instead, some form of passive stack or mechanical whole-house
ventilation

How much is this going to cost me?

I don't know; why don't you ask the companies who manufacture them?
--
Hugo Nebula
"If no-one on the internet wants a piece of this,
just how far from the pack have you strayed?"

Kate wrote:
wrote:

There are no trickle vents in the uPVC window in my bedroom. 2.5m wide
x about 1.2m high.
Consequently, on winter mornings, there is a lot of condensation on the
windows. This is due to water vapour exhaled during sleeping. It's
amazing how much there is -- I have to sponge the windows down and then
leave the casement open during the day.

I am thinking of fitting one or two white plastic trickle vents. I
presume it is just a matter of drilling a few small holes through the
frame?
Any suppliers on line or in the high street? Wickes have some trickle
vents but they are for wooden windows, as far as I can see.

Anyone done this? Is it a DIY job or best left to someone who installs
uPVC windows?

Thanks,
Bruce

You don't have a ventilation problem; you have a reverse
chimney-effect problem.

I had the same thing with my patio door, a metal-framed one installed
circa 30 years ago. Moisture would condense on the frame, and on the
lower part of the glass, eventually leaving small patches of mould on
some of the hardwood frame. It took me a little while to work out what
was happening.

I traced the problem to a 'reverse chimney' effect due to the curtains
being closed. There was circa a 1" gap between the top of the curtains
and the ceiling, and similar one at the bottom.

As air trapped by the curtains cooled, it sank and emerged into the
dining area, to be replaced by warm moist air at the top. There comes
a point somewhere near but not at the bottom of the glass where the
temperature falls below the dew-point, and moisture condenses out.
This continues ad infinitum, drawing moisture from the room and
depositing it on the glass and frame. The colder the night, the
farther up the glass the condensation started.

Putting 'sammy snakes' (draught excluders) along the bottom of the
curtains stopped the problem completely. Although cutting off the flow
of air made the glass colder, the very limited airflow meant that
condensed vapour could not be replaced, and the problem has gone away.
The dining area is also a lot warmer!

I put a wireless thermometer between the curtains and the glass. With
no draught excluder in place, the temperature drop from ambient was
about 5 degC or so. With the sammy snakes in place, the thermometer
read just above the outside temperature, a drop on the night in
question of over 20 degC.

My suggestions: make sure that obvious sources of dampness are removed
from the rooms concerned and cut the air-flow off with
draught-excluders.

Great advice..I find similar problems in my single glazed house..the
consdensation is worse with curtains open than closed.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Kate wrote:

Putting 'sammy snakes' (draught excluders) along the bottom of the
curtains stopped the problem completely. Although cutting off the flow
of air made the glass colder, the very limited airflow meant that
condensed vapour could not be replaced, and the problem has gone away.
The dining area is also a lot warmer!

Great advice.

Yes, never thought I'd be reading here 'how to stop condensation with a
snake'

NT