I recall Tommy Walsh on the telly showing Alan Titchmarsh how to use a drill
driver once.

He advised him to operate it in short 'bursts' e.g. quick pull of the
trigger, stop, quick pull of the trigger - rather than driving the screw in
one continuous go. I've noticed since that Tommy & Will both use their DD's
in that way.

Recently been driving a lot of large screws (12 x 4") and this technique
actually seems to work better - less cam out, speed stays higher etc.

Why would that be?

Also, I went on a training course by Wolf years ago, when they had just
brought out their 'palm grip' drills. e.g. drills shaped like a letter 'L'.
These were unusual in those days, the Stanley Bridges and B&D's of the time
being 'T' shaped.

Wolf reckoned the 'L' shape made it easier to maintain pressure on the bit
as you were pushing in a straight line. Modern drill/drivers still maintain
the old 'T' shape, presumably because of the battery and balance, so are
actually less ergonomic.

Any thoughts?


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

The Medway Handyman wrote:
I recall Tommy Walsh on the telly showing Alan Titchmarsh how to use
a drill driver once.

He advised him to operate it in short 'bursts' e.g. quick pull of the
trigger, stop, quick pull of the trigger - rather than driving the
screw in one continuous go. I've noticed since that Tommy & Will
both use their DD's in that way.

Recently been driving a lot of large screws (12 x 4") and this
technique actually seems to work better - less cam out, speed stays
higher etc.

Why would that be?


I'll give it a go,but personally I have it in my mind this will but wear on
mechanical parts far quickly than using the drill to drive the screw home
in one go..particulary on the switch.
What is it they say about driving your car in town traffic. ;-)
stop,start,stop

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

Probably to do with the applied pressure and a better feel.

When you stop and start again you reapply the pressure on the screw
where as doing it in a long continuous way your arm may get a little
relaxed and move away?

Also with the second or third start you can gauge how much effort it
takes your driver to start turning the screw again so improves
feedback.

I personally have always done it the stop start way but as said
probably does shorten the life your driver by a little.

In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
I recall Tommy Walsh on the telly showing Alan Titchmarsh how to
use a drill driver once.

He advised him to operate it in short 'bursts' e.g. quick pull of
the trigger, stop, quick pull of the trigger - rather than
driving the screw in one continuous go. I've noticed since that
Tommy & Will both use their DD's in that way.

'Pecking' will produce blips of the much higher
stall torque from the driver.... but the price
is shorter battery life and probably a shorter
life for the brushes, gearbox and switch.

--
Tony Williams.

The Medway Handyman wrote:
I recall Tommy Walsh on the telly showing Alan Titchmarsh how to use a drill
driver once.

He advised him to operate it in short 'bursts' e.g. quick pull of the
trigger, stop, quick pull of the trigger - rather than driving the screw in
one continuous go. I've noticed since that Tommy & Will both use their DD's
in that way.

Recently been driving a lot of large screws (12 x 4") and this technique
actually seems to work better - less cam out, speed stays higher etc.

This little baby does that for you:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/recno/10/product-Metabo-BSP-18+-Cordless-Drill-Driver-18V-24273.htm

It is really impressive in operation, driving pozis with mangled heads
is no problem.


--
Grunff

The Medway Handyman wrote:
I recall Tommy Walsh on the telly showing Alan Titchmarsh how to use a drill
driver once.

He advised him to operate it in short 'bursts' e.g. quick pull of the
trigger, stop, quick pull of the trigger - rather than driving the screw in
one continuous go. I've noticed since that Tommy & Will both use their DD's
in that way.

Recently been driving a lot of large screws (12 x 4") and this technique
actually seems to work better - less cam out, speed stays higher etc.

Why would that be?

Because you're probably not pressing hard enough.
If you press hard enough, and ideally you should increase the push on a
drill as you drive the screw in, then you don't get cam out.
I'd really like a drill that you could set a force multiplier on - you
press at 1Kg, and it'll stop at X Nm, press at 10Kg, and it stops at 10X
Nm, with X being variable.

Stopping occasionally means that any slight cam out gets reversed, and
the bit falls back into the hole.

You may also find a dab of grease on the screw end dramatically
increases the ease of driving.

The Medway Handyman wrote:
I recall Tommy Walsh on the telly showing Alan Titchmarsh how to use
a drill driver once.

He advised him to operate it in short 'bursts' e.g. quick pull of the
trigger, stop, quick pull of the trigger - rather than driving the
screw in one continuous go. I've noticed since that Tommy & Will
both use their DD's in that way.

Recently been driving a lot of large screws (12 x 4") and this
technique actually seems to work better - less cam out, speed stays
higher etc.


My DD (it's a corded drill but with a driving function) has a soft start
so if I "blipped" the trigger in that way would get very little done,
mind you that is a mains job, I reserve the battery thing for screws
that require very little torque. For screws needing very little torque
indeed (machine screws holding domestic equipment together) have a
battery screwdriver thing.
--
This post contains no hidden meanings, no implications and certainly no
hidden agendas so it should be taken at face value. The wrong words
may be used this is due to my limitations with the English language .

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman wrote:
I recall Tommy Walsh on the telly showing Alan Titchmarsh how to use a
drill
driver once.

He advised him to operate it in short 'bursts' e.g. quick pull of the
trigger, stop, quick pull of the trigger - rather than driving the screw
in
one continuous go. I've noticed since that Tommy & Will both use their
DD's
in that way.

Recently been driving a lot of large
screws (12 x 4") and this technique
actually seems to work better - less
cam out, speed stays higher etc.

Why would that be?

Because you're probably not pressing
hard enough.

Not so. The constant bursts of torque when pulsing the trigger, act like a
sort of Impact Driver, which is the tool that is needed for driving. If you
are ever in an office and they installing the partitions, the constant zap,
zap of the drill/drivers is heard, as they pulse the triggers.

"Grunff" wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman wrote:
I recall Tommy Walsh on the telly showing Alan Titchmarsh how to use a
drill driver once.

He advised him to operate it in short 'bursts' e.g. quick pull of the
trigger, stop, quick pull of the trigger - rather than driving the screw
in one continuous go. I've noticed since that Tommy & Will both use
their DD's in that way.

Recently been driving a lot of large screws (12 x 4") and this technique
actually seems to work better - less cam out, speed stays higher etc.

This little baby does that for you:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/recno/10/product-Metabo-BSP-18+-Cordless-Drill-Driver-18V-24273.htm

It is really impressive in operation, driving pozis with mangled heads is
no problem.

Yes! Down to £200 from £250! When it can't sniff the performance of an
Impact Driver, which can be also used for drilling in wood too. A Ryobi ONE+
18v Impact Driver, charger and two batteries can be had for £120 on the
'net. Then the batteries can be used on other ONE+ tools, which are cheap to
buy as they don't come with batteries.

Get the right tool for the job.

The Medway Handyman wrote:

He advised him to operate it in short 'bursts' e.g. quick pull of the
trigger, stop, quick pull of the trigger - rather than driving the screw in
one continuous go. I've noticed since that Tommy & Will both use their DD's
in that way.

Recently been driving a lot of large screws (12 x 4") and this technique
actually seems to work better - less cam out, speed stays higher etc.

Why would that be?

Some of it is due to allowing the cam out to be "reset" at each burst.
Some is exploiting bursts of stall torque from the motor. However some
is also history - many original drill drivers were fixed speed and had
no armature brake or torque slip clutch, so it was a way of modulating
the output of them and also not overdriving the screw.

Also, I went on a training course by Wolf years ago, when they had just
brought out their 'palm grip' drills. e.g. drills shaped like a letter 'L'.
These were unusual in those days, the Stanley Bridges and B&D's of the time
being 'T' shaped.

Wolf reckoned the 'L' shape made it easier to maintain pressure on the bit
as you were pushing in a straight line. Modern drill/drivers still maintain
the old 'T' shape, presumably because of the battery and balance, so are
actually less ergonomic.

Well the balance matters quite a bit, so I guess most manufacturers go
for that first. Makita sold a L shaped design of 9.6V drill driver for
many years that was very popular though. I know somone who has one and a
more modern 14.4V combi, and says he prefers using the old one for
screwing. Personally I am not that fond of it though and prefer the feel
of the T design ones.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Thu, 23 Mar 2006 12:39:40 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Grunff" wrote in message
.. .
The Medway Handyman wrote:
I recall Tommy Walsh on the telly showing Alan Titchmarsh how to use a
drill driver once.

He advised him to operate it in short 'bursts' e.g. quick pull of the
trigger, stop, quick pull of the trigger - rather than driving the screw
in one continuous go. I've noticed since that Tommy & Will both use
their DD's in that way.

Recently been driving a lot of large screws (12 x 4") and this technique
actually seems to work better - less cam out, speed stays higher etc.

This little baby does that for you:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/recno/10/product-Metabo-BSP-18+-Cordless-Drill-Driver-18V-24273.htm

It is really impressive in operation, driving pozis with mangled heads is
no problem.

Yes! Down to £200 from £250! When it can't sniff the performance of an
Impact Driver, which can be also used for drilling in wood too. A Ryobi ONE+
18v Impact Driver, charger and two batteries can be had for £120 on the
'net. Then the batteries can be used on other ONE+ tools, which are cheap to
buy as they don't come with batteries.

Get the right tool for the job.


So the Metabo, then....


--

..andy

Ian Stirling wrote:

You may also find a dab of grease on the screw end dramatically
increases the ease of driving.

very much. any oil/grease/soap/wax lube will do, grease, oil, marge,
chocolate, soap, washing up liquid, candle wax, dripping. I expect
teflon tape and earwax would also work, cant say I've ever tried them
though!


NT

wrote:
Ian Stirling wrote:

You may also find a dab of grease on the screw end dramatically
increases the ease of driving.

very much. any oil/grease/soap/wax lube will do, grease, oil, marge,
chocolate, soap, washing up liquid, candle wax, dripping. I expect
teflon tape and earwax would also work, cant say I've ever tried them
though!


NT

someone been getting at you? or your Dr prescribed the yellow tablets. ;-)
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message
...
On Thu, 23 Mar 2006 12:39:40 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Grunff" wrote in message
. ..
The Medway Handyman wrote:
I recall Tommy Walsh on the telly showing Alan Titchmarsh how to use a
drill driver once.

He advised him to operate it in short 'bursts' e.g. quick pull of the
trigger, stop, quick pull of the trigger - rather than driving the
screw
in one continuous go. I've noticed since that Tommy & Will both use
their DD's in that way.

Recently been driving a lot of large screws (12 x 4") and this
technique
actually seems to work better - less cam out, speed stays higher etc.

This little baby does that for you:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/recno/10/product-Metabo-BSP-18+-Cordless-Drill-Driver-18V-24273.htm

It is really impressive in operation, driving pozis with mangled heads
is
no problem.

Yes! Down to £200 from £250! When it can't sniff the performance of an
Impact Driver, which can be also used for drilling in wood too. A Ryobi
ONE+
18v Impact Driver, charger and two batteries can be had for £120 on the
'net. Then the batteries can be used on other ONE+ tools, which are cheap
to
buy as they don't come with batteries.

Get the right tool for the job.

So the Metabo, then....

Matt, you should buy the Metabo and you should buy a jig saw to cut planks
in half too.

wrote:
Ian Stirling wrote:

You may also find a dab of grease on the screw end dramatically
increases the ease of driving.

very much. any oil/grease/soap/wax lube will do, grease, oil, marge,
chocolate, soap, washing up liquid, candle wax, dripping. I expect
teflon tape and earwax would also work, cant say I've ever tried them
though!

Even spit.
(I haven't tried other bodily fluids - apart from blood.)

A tiny pot of grease, and sharp bits will make any battery drill work
much longer per charge.

In article ,
Ian Stirling wrote:
You may also find a dab of grease on the screw end dramatically
increases the ease of driving.

very much. any oil/grease/soap/wax lube will do, grease, oil, marge,
chocolate, soap, washing up liquid, candle wax, dripping. I expect
teflon tape and earwax would also work, cant say I've ever tried them
though!

Even spit.
(I haven't tried other bodily fluids - apart from blood.)

A tiny pot of grease, and sharp bits will make any battery drill work
much longer per charge.

My mentor reckoned soap was the only thing to use for screws driven into
wood. Like brass screws.

--
*The fact that no one understands you doesn't mean you're an artist

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Thu, 23 Mar 2006 19:02:23 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Ian Stirling wrote:
You may also find a dab of grease on the screw end dramatically
increases the ease of driving.

very much. any oil/grease/soap/wax lube will do, grease, oil, marge,
chocolate, soap, washing up liquid, candle wax, dripping. I expect
teflon tape and earwax would also work, cant say I've ever tried them
though!

Even spit.
(I haven't tried other bodily fluids - apart from blood.)

A tiny pot of grease, and sharp bits will make any battery drill work
much longer per charge.

My mentor reckoned soap was the only thing to use for screws driven into
wood. Like brass screws.


With brass, it's better to drive a steel screw of the same size first
and then to remove it and replace with a brass one. This avoids the
risk of their shearing.


--

..andy

Ian Stirling wrote:

Because you're probably not pressing hard enough.
If you press hard enough, and ideally you should increase the push on
a drill as you drive the screw in, then you don't get cam out.

You've never met me have you :-)

I'm a 17 stone ex competition power lifter - if I press something - it gets
pressed!
--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Ian Stirling wrote:

Because you're probably not pressing hard enough.
If you press hard enough, and ideally you should increase the push on
a drill as you drive the screw in, then you don't get cam out.

You've never met me have you :-)

I'm a 17 stone ex competition power lifter - if I press something -
it gets pressed!
--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

I worked with a pumping-iron bloke once, met up with him 7 months
ago...looks a bit like mitchillin man now. lol seems that after giving up
the iron you erm! become inflated.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
I worked with a pumping-iron bloke once, met up with him 7 months
ago...looks a bit like mitchillin man now. lol seems that after
giving up the iron you erm! become inflated.

Muscle can't turn to fat, physical impossibility. What happens is that the
high calorie input remains and the huge amount of excercise drops.

So, yes I'm a fat ******* - but a very strong fat ******* :-)

Having said that, since starting my handyman business I've lost nearly a
stone in weight.
--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

The Medway Handyman wrote:

Having said that, since starting my handyman business I've lost
nearly a stone in weight.
--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

Did you have Lithotripsy?

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:

Having said that, since starting my handyman business I've lost
nearly a stone in weight.

Did you have Lithotripsy?

Isn't that the treatment of kidney stones? In which case no!


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

In article ,
Andy Hall wrote:
My mentor reckoned soap was the only thing to use for screws driven into
wood. Like brass screws.

With brass, it's better to drive a steel screw of the same size first
and then to remove it and replace with a brass one. This avoids the
risk of their shearing.

Of course. That's always been the way of doing it.

What I was thinking about was any interaction between the screw and wood
long term caused by an inappropriate lubricant.

--
*Happiness is seeing your mother-in-law on a milk carton

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

The message
from "Dave Plowman (News)" contains these words:

What I was thinking about was any interaction between the screw and wood
long term caused by an inappropriate lubricant.

Some soap can be quite corrosive over time.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article ,
Andy Hall wrote:
My mentor reckoned soap was the only thing to use for screws driven into
wood. Like brass screws.

With brass, it's better to drive a steel screw of the same size first
and then to remove it and replace with a brass one. This avoids the
risk of their shearing.

Of course. That's always been the way of doing it.

What I was thinking about was any interaction between the screw and wood
long term caused by an inappropriate lubricant.

I suspect something like vaseline is probably best.
Or some water-based lubricant perhaps. Does screwfix do KY?
You really don't want to use things that'll feed bacteria/mould/...
either I suppose.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

What I was thinking about was any interaction between the screw and
wood long term caused by an inappropriate lubricant.

I have used PVA on screws befeore, when I want to ensure a really strong
joint. Lubricates and locks the screw in place.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

The Medway Handyman wrote:
I have used PVA on screws befeore, when I want to ensure a really strong
joint. Lubricates and locks the screw in place.

Dingdongs. What a bodger. Change your name imnmediately.

Chris Bacon wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
I have used PVA on screws befeore, when I want to ensure a really
strong joint. Lubricates and locks the screw in place.

Dingdongs. What a bodger. Change your name imnmediately.

And how is that a bodge pray tell? The joint is stronger.


--
Dave
The Confused Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Chris Bacon wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
I have used PVA on screws befeore, when I want to ensure a really
strong joint. Lubricates and locks the screw in place.

Dingdongs. What a bodger. Change your name imnmediately.

And how is that a bodge pray tell? The joint is stronger.

Don't expect any science from dribble unless he reads it from the back of
a packet.

It does interest me, though. I recently refurbished a kitchen which was
old and had some long term intermittent water damage to parts. And the
original galvanised screws going into chipboard had no threads to speak of
left.
So which combination of screw material, lubricant, etc into materials *is*
of interest to me.

I know with the old Rover V-8 which has lots of bolts going direct into
the aluminium that Scotch Guard not only locks those bolts but prevents
corrosion even after 40 odd years.

So the reaction between different screws and timbers - and any lubricants
used - over long term is interesting.

--
*White with a hint of M42*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Chris Bacon wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
I have used PVA on screws befeore, when I want to ensure a really
strong joint. Lubricates and locks the screw in place.

Dingdongs. What a bodger. Change your name imnmediately.

And how is that a bodge pray tell? The joint is stronger.

The joint is not stronger. The screw is glued in. I can't think of
any situation where you'd need to do this, unless you're starting
from the position of soing something wrong. If you *can* tell me
where it's a good idea to do this, and reasons for it, I'll be all
ears.

Don't expect any science from dribble unless he reads it from the back of
a packet.

I am CPB, not "Dribble".


It does interest me, though. I recently refurbished a kitchen which was
old and had some long term intermittent water damage to parts. And the
original galvanised screws going into chipboard had no threads to speak of
left.

Would it have helped if the screws had been PVA's in, hmm?


So which combination of screw material, lubricant, etc into materials *is*
of interest to me.

Water damage, you say. How is a frightful bodge, such as PVAing a screw
in, going to help here?


I know with the old Rover V-8 which has lots of bolts going direct into
the aluminium that Scotch Guard not only locks those bolts but prevents
corrosion even after 40 odd years.

Scotchguard into aluminium is not mild steel screws into timber (or
even chipboard). I thought that Scotchguard was for carpets. Isn't
one of the Loctite products better for steel into aluminium, or
even grease, or J166?


So the reaction between different screws and timbers - and any lubricants
used - over long term is interesting.

You think that PVA is a good idea for this?

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Chris Bacon wrote:

The joint is not stronger. The screw is glued in. I can't think of
any situation where you'd need to do this, unless you're starting
from the position of soing something wrong. If you *can* tell me
where it's a good idea to do this, and reasons for it, I'll be all
ears.

The joint is stronger. I read the idea years ago in a DIY manual.
How could it be anything but stronger? How could PVA glue actually
make a joint weaker?

BTW I'm not perfect, but I rarely 'so' anything wrong.

I am CPB, not "Dribble".

How did I guess you were really Chris P Bacon?

--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

PVA is not suitable for metal as it only forms a casing around the
screw,not a bonding action. :-)

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

Chris Bacon wrote:

The joint is not stronger. The screw is glued in. I can't think of
any situation where you'd need to do this, unless you're starting
from the position of soing something wrong. If you *can* tell me
where it's a good idea to do this, and reasons for it, I'll be all
ears.

The joint is stronger. I read the idea years ago in a DIY manual. How
could it be anything but stronger? How could PVA glue actually make a joint
weaker?

BTW I'm not perfect, but I rarely 'so' anything wrong.

I am CPB, not "Dribble".

How did I guess you were really Chris P Bacon?

--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

"Chris Bacon" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Chris Bacon wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
I have used PVA on screws befeore, when I want to ensure a really
strong joint. Lubricates and locks the screw in place.

Dingdongs. What a bodger. Change your name imnmediately.

And how is that a bodge pray tell? The joint is stronger.

The joint is not stronger. The screw is glued in. I can't think of
any situation where you'd need to do this, unless you're starting
from the position of soing something wrong. If you *can* tell me
where it's a good idea to do this, and reasons for it, I'll be all
ears.

Don't expect any science from dribble unless he reads it from the back of
a packet.

I am CPB, not "Dribble".

Richard Cranium is confused. He is a Cheggers fan you know.

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Chris Bacon wrote:
The joint is not stronger. The screw is glued in. I can't think of
any situation where you'd need to do this, unless you're starting
from the position of soing something wrong. If you *can* tell me
where it's a good idea to do this, and reasons for it, I'll be all
ears.

The joint is stronger. I read the idea years ago in a DIY manual. How
could it be anything but stronger? How could PVA glue actually make a joint
weaker?

You're not telling me anything. You "read it in a DIY manual". And?
How do you carry out this frightful bodge? Why do you think it helps,
unless you're starting from the position of doing something wrong?

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
Richard Cranium is confused. He is a Cheggers fan you know.

You seem to be obsessed with dear old Keith. Did he reject your advances
at the clinic?

--
*Save the whale - I'll have it for my supper*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
Richard Cranium is confused. He is a Cheggers fan you know.

You seem to be obsessed
with dear old Keith.

Not as much as you Richard. Are you No. 1 in the fan club? Yes, senile
people do this sort of thing.

The message
from Chris Bacon contains these words:

I know with the old Rover V-8 which has lots of bolts going direct into
the aluminium that Scotch Guard not only locks those bolts but prevents
corrosion even after 40 odd years.

Scotchguard into aluminium is not mild steel screws into timber (or
even chipboard). I thought that Scotchguard was for carpets. Isn't
one of the Loctite products better for steel into aluminium, or
even grease, or J166?

According to the workshop manual the recommended product is "Thread
Lubricant-Sealant 3M EC776". I have a can bought for the purpose which
is "Scotchclad - 776 fuel resistant coating and adhesive" which I
presume is the same stuff.

--
Roger Chapman

In article ,
Roger wrote:
I know with the old Rover V-8 which has lots of bolts going direct
into the aluminium that Scotch Guard not only locks those bolts but
prevents corrosion even after 40 odd years.

Scotchguard into aluminium is not mild steel screws into timber (or
even chipboard). I thought that Scotchguard was for carpets. Isn't
one of the Loctite products better for steel into aluminium, or
even grease, or J166?

According to the workshop manual the recommended product is "Thread
Lubricant-Sealant 3M EC776". I have a can bought for the purpose which
is "Scotchclad - 776 fuel resistant coating and adhesive" which I
presume is the same stuff.

Absolutely right Roger. Sorry for the brain fart. But it's still brilliant
stuff. ;-)

--
*Why isn't there mouse-flavoured cat food?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Chris P Bacon wrote:

You're not telling me anything. You "read it in a DIY manual". And?

And its not something I would have made up is it?

How do you carry out this frightful bodge? Why do you think it helps,
unless you're starting from the position of doing something wrong?

Answer the question "why is it a frightful bodge?" How could the practice
weaken a joint?

What evidence do you have that I must be "starting from the position of
doing something wrong?"


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Chris P Bacon wrote:
[PVAing screws in]
How do you carry out this frightful bodge? Why do you think it helps,
unless you're starting from the position of doing something wrong?

Answer the question "why is it a frightful bodge?"

Because it should never be necessary, does not help at all, and
makes dismantling difficult.

Now, you answer the question "Why does it make the joint stronger",
which you seem to think is true.


How could the practice weaken a joint?

I dodn't say it would weaken a joint, did I? It won't make it stronger.


What evidence do you have that I must be "starting from the position of
doing something wrong?"

Because it's un unneccessary frightful bodge. If you think you need
to do this, then you must be doing something wrong, because you don't.

Say that you've got two planed 2x1 battens, 1' long. Describe how you
would screw them together, wide faces together, using two woodscrews,
and any tools or accessories you think fit.