I bought a deburring tool
(http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=13315) and although there's
only one way it can work - shove it in the pipe, turn - I'm not getting
satisfactory results. The tool does shave off copper, but there is still a
burr. If I continue until there is no burr, I've removed so much copper that
the wall at the cut end of the pipe now tapers from the inside out and is
very thin. In other words the tool removes the 'good' wall of the pipe as
well as the burr.

What am I doing wrong? Is a slight residual burr to be expected when using
this tool? Should I try a different tool? I can file off burrs well enough
but it is time consuming.

If it makes any difference the pipe is standard 22mm copper and I am cutting
it with a Monument auto wheel cutter like this one
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=12380

Thanks

Pete

I must confess I don't have any issues with my ancient 20 year old pipe
cutter. It doesn't leave burrs.
I only have issues when pipe is cut with a hacksaw.

Maybe time for a different cutter?

"PM" wrote in message
...
I bought a deburring tool
(http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=13315) and although
there's
only one way it can work - shove it in the pipe, turn - I'm not getting
satisfactory results. The tool does shave off copper, but there is still a
burr. If I continue until there is no burr, I've removed so much copper
that
the wall at the cut end of the pipe now tapers from the inside out and is
very thin. In other words the tool removes the 'good' wall of the pipe as
well as the burr.

What am I doing wrong? Is a slight residual burr to be expected when using
this tool? Should I try a different tool? I can file off burrs well enough
but it is time consuming.

If it makes any difference the pipe is standard 22mm copper and I am
cutting
it with a Monument auto wheel cutter like this one
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=12380

Thanks

Pete

On Fri, 3 Mar 2006 13:32:09 -0000, "PM"
wrote:

I bought a deburring tool
(http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=13315) and although there's
only one way it can work - shove it in the pipe, turn - I'm not getting
satisfactory results. The tool does shave off copper, but there is still a
burr. If I continue until there is no burr, I've removed so much copper that
the wall at the cut end of the pipe now tapers from the inside out and is
very thin. In other words the tool removes the 'good' wall of the pipe as
well as the burr.

What am I doing wrong? Is a slight residual burr to be expected when using
this tool? Should I try a different tool? I can file off burrs well enough
but it is time consuming.

If it makes any difference the pipe is standard 22mm copper and I am cutting
it with a Monument auto wheel cutter like this one
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=12380

Thanks

Pete


Do you mean when the end of the pipe gets turned in slightly when you
use a pipe cutter..??

Could you utilise a round file instead ..

Stuart

In article ,
SuitSat wrote:
I must confess I don't have any issues with my ancient 20 year old pipe
cutter. It doesn't leave burrs. I only have issues when pipe is cut with
a hacksaw.

Wheeled cutters leave a rolled over lip, though. That's what the 'V' on
the end of most is used for - to remove it.

--
*I don't suffer from insanity; I enjoy every minute of it.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

PM wrote:
I bought a deburring tool
(http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=13315) and although there's
only one way it can work - shove it in the pipe, turn - I'm not getting
satisfactory results. The tool does shave off copper, but there is still a
burr. If I continue until there is no burr, I've removed so much copper that
the wall at the cut end of the pipe now tapers from the inside out and is
very thin. In other words the tool removes the 'good' wall of the pipe as
well as the burr.

I've never de-burred pipe after using a wheel cutter. No leaks yet...

MBQ

wrote:
PM wrote:
I bought a deburring tool
(http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=13315) and although there's
only one way it can work - shove it in the pipe, turn - I'm not getting
satisfactory results. The tool does shave off copper, but there is still a
burr. If I continue until there is no burr, I've removed so much copper that
the wall at the cut end of the pipe now tapers from the inside out and is
very thin. In other words the tool removes the 'good' wall of the pipe as
well as the burr.

I've never de-burred pipe after using a wheel cutter. No leaks yet...

MBQ

Don't worry - someone will be along shortly to tell you that your house
is a ticking time bomb and that you'll have leaks everywhere within weeks

Richard Conway wrote:
wrote:
PM wrote:
I bought a deburring tool
(http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=13315) and although there's
only one way it can work - shove it in the pipe, turn - I'm not getting
satisfactory results. The tool does shave off copper, but there is still a
burr. If I continue until there is no burr, I've removed so much copper that
the wall at the cut end of the pipe now tapers from the inside out and is
very thin. In other words the tool removes the 'good' wall of the pipe as
well as the burr.

I've never de-burred pipe after using a wheel cutter. No leaks yet...

MBQ

Don't worry - someone will be along shortly to tell you that your house
is a ticking time bomb and that you'll have leaks everywhere within weeks

Probably Drivel with his hacksaw ;-)

MBQ

wrote in message
oups.com...

Richard Conway wrote:
wrote:
PM wrote:
I bought a deburring tool
(http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=13315) and although
there's
only one way it can work - shove it in the pipe, turn - I'm not
getting
satisfactory results. The tool does shave off copper, but there is
still a
burr. If I continue until there is no burr, I've removed so much
copper that
the wall at the cut end of the pipe now tapers from the inside out and
is
very thin. In other words the tool removes the 'good' wall of the pipe
as
well as the burr.

I've never de-burred pipe after using a wheel cutter. No leaks yet...

MBQ

Don't worry - someone will be along shortly to tell you that your house
is a ticking time bomb and that you'll have leaks everywhere within weeks


Probably Drivel with his hacksaw ;-)

MBQ


i think the point of deburring is also to remove loose material which would
overwise go along the pipe until it collects in an appliance
personally i just use a dremel to deburr it

Mindwipe wrote:

i think the point of deburring is also to remove loose material which would
overwise go along the pipe until it collects in an appliance
personally i just use a dremel to deburr it

I have an old penknife.
A quick spin around the inside of the pipe applying pressure with the
thumb shaves the burr clean off.

I found that funny "blade" thing on some wheel cutters can actually
flare the end of the pipe out enough to make the fitting to tight.

I must also admit I don't think I have ever seen a "professional" bother
with removing the internal burr.


--
http://gymratz.co.uk - Best Gym Equipment & Bodybuilding Supplements UK.
http://trade-price-supplements.co.uk - TRADE PRICED SUPPLEMENTS for ALL!
http://fitness-equipment-uk.com - UK's No.1 Fitness Equipment Suppliers.
http://Water-Rower.co.uk - Worlds best prices on the Worlds best Rower.

wrote in message
ups.com...

PM wrote:
I bought a deburring tool
(http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=13315) and although
there's
only one way it can work - shove it in the pipe, turn - I'm not getting
satisfactory results. The tool does shave off copper, but there is still
a
burr. If I continue until there is no burr, I've removed so much copper
that
the wall at the cut end of the pipe now tapers from the inside out and is
very thin. In other words the tool removes the 'good' wall of the pipe as
well as the burr.

I've never de-burred pipe after using a wheel cutter. No leaks yet...

It closes over the end of the pipe restricting flow and leaving an edge for
crud to gather.

"Mindwipe" jeffinleeds@nospam wrote in message
...

i think the point of deburring is also to remove loose material which
would overwise go along the pipe until it collects in an appliance
personally i just use a dremel to deburr it

I use battery drill/driver with a cone cutter on it. Just apply it to the
end and all comes off zippo. No crimped over copper pipe ends or burr
around.

Go to Screwfix and type "cone" in the search window and then go to
sepcialist drills, a wole raft of them come up.

In message ews.net,
Doctor Drivel writes

"Mindwipe" jeffinleeds@nospam wrote in message
...

i think the point of deburring is also to remove loose material which
would overwise go along the pipe until it collects in an appliance
personally i just use a dremel to deburr it

I use battery drill/driver with a cone cutter on it. Just apply it to
the end and all comes off zippo. No crimped over copper pipe ends or
burr around.

Go to Screwfix and type "cone" in the search window and then go to
sepcialist drills, a wole raft of them come up.

"Sepcialist drivel and his wole raft" - you have a name, all you need is
the hit song


--
geoff

In message ews.net,
Doctor Drivel writes

wrote in message
oups.com...

PM wrote:
I bought a deburring tool
(http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=13315) and although
there's
only one way it can work - shove it in the pipe, turn - I'm not getting
satisfactory results. The tool does shave off copper, but there is
still a
burr. If I continue until there is no burr, I've removed so much
copper that
the wall at the cut end of the pipe now tapers from the inside out and is
very thin. In other words the tool removes the 'good' wall of the pipe as
well as the burr.

I've never de-burred pipe after using a wheel cutter. No leaks yet...

It closes over the end of the pipe restricting flow

By bugger all %

and leaving an edge for crud to gather.

Doesn't your magic water conditioner resolve this ?

--
geoff

On Sat, 04 Mar 2006 17:39:30 GMT, raden wrote:

In message ews.net,
Doctor Drivel writes

"Mindwipe" jeffinleeds@nospam wrote in message
...

i think the point of deburring is also to remove loose material which
would overwise go along the pipe until it collects in an appliance
personally i just use a dremel to deburr it

I use battery drill/driver with a cone cutter on it. Just apply it to
the end and all comes off zippo. No crimped over copper pipe ends or
burr around.

Go to Screwfix and type "cone" in the search window and then go to
sepcialist drills, a wole raft of them come up.

"Sepcialist drivel and his wole raft" - you have a name, all you need is
the hit song

Even so, good tip. I'm for it.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Drop the EGG to email me.

In article ,
raden wrote:
In message ews.net,
Doctor Drivel writes

"Mindwipe" jeffinleeds@nospam wrote in message
...

i think the point of deburring is also to remove loose material which
would overwise go along the pipe until it collects in an appliance
personally i just use a dremel to deburr it

I use battery drill/driver with a cone cutter on it. Just apply it to
the end and all comes off zippo. No crimped over copper pipe ends or
burr around.

Go to Screwfix and type "cone" in the search window and then go to
sepcialist drills, a wole raft of them come up.

"Sepcialist drivel and his wole raft" - you have a name, all you need is
the hit song

I've never found it a problem just to use the end of the pipe cutter
designed for this - but drivel claims to use a power drill with a cone
cutter. Somewhat at odds with not wanting to pay the pennies for a proper
plastic pipe cutter and use a hacksaw instead?

FWIW, a cone cutter in a power drill is likely to remove more than just
the burr...

--
*How do you tell when you run out of invisible ink? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Mike Halmarack wrote:
Go to Screwfix and type "cone" in the search window and then go to
sepcialist drills, a wole raft of them come up.

"Sepcialist drivel and his wole raft" - you have a name, all you need
is the hit song

Even so, good tip. I'm for it.

It's not, actually. All too easy to do more damage than good. If you
really want a perfect finish you want a tapered hand reamer - not a cone
cutter. The angles on those are too steep.

--
*If one synchronized swimmer drowns, do the rest have to drown too?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message ews.net,
Doctor Drivel writes

"Mindwipe" jeffinleeds@nospam wrote in message
...

i think the point of deburring is also to remove loose material which
would overwise go along the pipe until it collects in an appliance
personally i just use a dremel to deburr it

I use battery drill/driver with a cone cutter on it. Just apply it to the
end and all comes off zippo. No crimped over copper pipe ends or burr
around.

Go to Screwfix and type "cone" in the search window and then go to
sepcialist drills, a wole raft of them come up.

"Sepcialist drivel and his wole raft" - you have a name, all you need is
the hit song

Maxie, there is no doubt you stayed in because of the cold and hit the pop.

"Mike Halmarack" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 04 Mar 2006 17:39:30 GMT, raden wrote:

In message ews.net,
Doctor Drivel writes

"Mindwipe" jeffinleeds@nospam wrote in message
...

i think the point of deburring is also to remove loose material which
would overwise go along the pipe until it collects in an appliance
personally i just use a dremel to deburr it

I use battery drill/driver with a cone cutter on it. Just apply it to
the end and all comes off zippo. No crimped over copper pipe ends or
burr around.

Go to Screwfix and type "cone" in the search window and then go to
sepcialist drills, a wole raft of them come up.

"Sepcialist drivel and his wole raft" - you have a name, all you need is
the hit song

Even so, good tip. I'm for it.

The battery drill makes it so easy and quick.

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message ews.net,
Doctor Drivel writes

"Mindwipe" jeffinleeds@nospam wrote in message
...

i think the point of deburring is also to remove loose material which
would overwise go along the pipe until it collects in an appliance
personally i just use a dremel to deburr it

I use battery drill/driver with a cone cutter on it. Just apply it to the
end and all comes off zippo. No crimped over copper pipe ends or burr
around.

Go to Screwfix and type "cone" in the search window and then go to
sepcialist drills, a wole raft of them come up.

"Sepcialist drivel and his wole raft" - you have a name, all you need is
the hit song

Maxie, I do have hit poems.

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message ews.net,
Doctor Drivel writes

wrote in message
roups.com...

PM wrote:
I bought a deburring tool
(http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=13315) and although
there's
only one way it can work - shove it in the pipe, turn - I'm not getting
satisfactory results. The tool does shave off copper, but there is
still a
burr. If I continue until there is no burr, I've removed so much copper
that
the wall at the cut end of the pipe now tapers from the inside out and
is
very thin. In other words the tool removes the 'good' wall of the pipe
as
well as the burr.

I've never de-burred pipe after using a wheel cutter. No leaks yet...

It closes over the end of the pipe restricting flow

By bugger all %

Maxie, depends on the cutter and sharpenes of gthe blade wheel. They also
collect crid. That is why they sell deburring tools.

and leaving an edge for crud to gather.

Doesn't your magic water conditioner resolve this ?

Maxie, how much of the Sherry have you been at? I bet you are hanging off
the chair.

On Sat, 04 Mar 2006 19:15:11 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Mike Halmarack wrote:
Go to Screwfix and type "cone" in the search window and then go to
sepcialist drills, a wole raft of them come up.

"Sepcialist drivel and his wole raft" - you have a name, all you need
is the hit song

Even so, good tip. I'm for it.

It's not, actually. All too easy to do more damage than good. If you
really want a perfect finish you want a tapered hand reamer - not a cone
cutter. The angles on those are too steep.

I suppose it depends on the user's level of dexterity and the taper of
the cone. Your preference for the hand job has been long apparent, and
you shouldn't be denied the comfort of it.:-)
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Drop the EGG to email me.

"Mike Halmarack" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 04 Mar 2006 19:15:11 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
through haze of senile flatulence wrote:

In article ,
Mike Halmarack wrote:
Go to Screwfix and type "cone" in the search window and then go to
sepcialist drills, a wole raft of them come up.

"Sepcialist drivel and his wole raft" - you have a name, all you need
is the hit song

Even so, good tip. I'm for it.

It's not, actually. All too easy to
do more damage than good. If you
really want a perfect finish you want
a tapered hand reamer - not a cone
cutter. The angles on those are too steep.

I suppose it depends on the user's
level of dexterity and the taper of
the cone. Your preference for the
hand job has been long apparent, and
you shouldn't be denied the comfort of it.:-)

LOL!!!!!!

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article ,
Mike Halmarack wrote:
Go to Screwfix and type "cone" in the search window and then go to
sepcialist drills, a wole raft of them come up.

"Sepcialist drivel and his wole raft" - you have a name, all you need
is the hit song

Even so, good tip. I'm for it.

It's not, actually. All too easy to do more damage than good. If you
really want a perfect finish you want a tapered hand reamer - not a cone
cutter. The angles on those are too steep.


Lets get real, how much of a problem is it really ?




"If one synchronized swimmer drowns, do the rest have to drown too?"

No, they sync instead of swimming


--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article ,
Mike Halmarack wrote:
Go to Screwfix and type "cone" in the search window and then go to
sepcialist drills, a wole raft of them come up.

"Sepcialist drivel and his wole raft" - you have a name, all you need
is the hit song

Even so, good tip. I'm for it.

It's not, actually. All too easy to do more damage than good. If you
really want a perfect finish you want a tapered hand reamer - not a cone
cutter. The angles on those are too steep.

Lets get real, how much of a problem is it really ?

None at all. I have done this for the last 15 to 20 years.

"If one synchronized swimmer drowns, do the rest have to drown too?"

No, they sync instead of swimming

Oh that was a good one Maxie.

In article ,
Mike Halmarack wrote:
It's not, actually. All too easy to do more damage than good. If you
really want a perfect finish you want a tapered hand reamer - not a cone
cutter. The angles on those are too steep.

I suppose it depends on the user's level of dexterity and the taper of
the cone.

Cone cutters are designed for a very different purpose than de-burring
copper tube. Bit like the way there are special cutters for plastic pipe
but some still use a hacksaw.

Your preference for the hand job has been long apparent, and
you shouldn't be denied the comfort of it.:-)

Nice one. ;-)

--
*You never really learn to swear until you learn to drive *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of seniel
flatulance wrote in message ...
In article ,
Mike Halmarack wrote:
It's not, actually. All too easy to do more damage than good. If you
really want a perfect finish you want a tapered hand reamer - not a cone
cutter. The angles on those are too steep.

I suppose it depends on the user's level of dexterity and the taper of
the cone.

Cone cutters

** snip senile babble and misinformation **

Sed but it had to snipped. You see senile people can't understand these
sorts of things. Sad but true.

On Sun, 05 Mar 2006 00:39:26 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Mike Halmarack wrote:
It's not, actually. All too easy to do more damage than good. If you
really want a perfect finish you want a tapered hand reamer - not a cone
cutter. The angles on those are too steep.

I suppose it depends on the user's level of dexterity and the taper of
the cone.

Cone cutters are designed for a very different purpose than de-burring
copper tube. Bit like the way there are special cutters for plastic pipe
but some still use a hacksaw.

Without going to such extremes as opening paint cans with wood
chisels, there's a great advantage to the non-specialist d-i-yer in
improvisation. The main beneficiaries of the "Buy every tool in the
book" and "only the best and most expensive" are those selling the
stuff. A group consistently well represented in this forum.

Your preference for the hand job has been long apparent, and
you shouldn't be denied the comfort of it.:-)

Nice one. ;-)

Glad you enjoyed it. :-)
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Drop the EGG to email me.

In article ,
"PM" writes:
I bought a deburring tool
(http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=13315) and although there's
only one way it can work - shove it in the pipe, turn - I'm not getting
satisfactory results. The tool does shave off copper, but there is still a
burr. If I continue until there is no burr, I've removed so much copper that
the wall at the cut end of the pipe now tapers from the inside out and is
very thin. In other words the tool removes the 'good' wall of the pipe as
well as the burr.

When I installed my central heating, I treated myself to a good
quality wheeled pipe cutter. Slotted into the body of it was a
separate deburrer of a type I'd never seen before, and without
any instructions, it took me a few moments to work out how to
use it, but it's brilliant once you have. I can't see the same
make anywhere on the web, but this one is the same principle:

http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/234-1522

One nice thing about it is the burr comes off in one piece
(with a bit of practice), which you can capture and prevent
from ending up inside the pipework. I used it for the whole
heating system, water and gas pipes, and the original blade
still works fine (although I had to replace the wheeled
cutter blade near the end of the job).

When practising, be careful so that if the tool slips out of
the end of the pipe, you don't end up jabbing it in your eye.
That looked worrying easy to do by accident.

--
Andrew Gabriel

On 05 Mar 2006 14:23:40 GMT, (Andrew
Gabriel) wrote:

In article ,
"PM" writes:
I bought a deburring tool
(http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=13315) and although there's
only one way it can work - shove it in the pipe, turn - I'm not getting
satisfactory results. The tool does shave off copper, but there is still a
burr. If I continue until there is no burr, I've removed so much copper that
the wall at the cut end of the pipe now tapers from the inside out and is
very thin. In other words the tool removes the 'good' wall of the pipe as
well as the burr.

When I installed my central heating, I treated myself to a good
quality wheeled pipe cutter. Slotted into the body of it was a
separate deburrer of a type I'd never seen before, and without
any instructions, it took me a few moments to work out how to
use it, but it's brilliant once you have. I can't see the same
make anywhere on the web, but this one is the same principle:

http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/234-1522

One nice thing about it is the burr comes off in one piece
(with a bit of practice), which you can capture and prevent
from ending up inside the pipework. I used it for the whole
heating system, water and gas pipes, and the original blade
still works fine (although I had to replace the wheeled
cutter blade near the end of the job).

When practising, be careful so that if the tool slips out of
the end of the pipe, you don't end up jabbing it in your eye.
That looked worrying easy to do by accident.


How is it used? Like a vegetable peeler?


--

..andy

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"PM" writes:
I bought a deburring tool
(http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=13315) and although
there's
only one way it can work - shove it in the pipe, turn - I'm not getting
satisfactory results. The tool does shave off copper, but there is still
a
burr. If I continue until there is no burr, I've removed so much copper
that
the wall at the cut end of the pipe now tapers from the inside out and is
very thin. In other words the tool removes the 'good' wall of the pipe as
well as the burr.

When I installed my central heating, I treated myself to a good
quality wheeled pipe cutter. Slotted into the body of it was a
separate deburrer of a type I'd never seen before, and without
any instructions, it took me a few moments to work out how to
use it, but it's brilliant once you have. I can't see the same
make anywhere on the web, but this one is the same principle:

http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/234-1522

One nice thing about it is the burr comes off in one piece
(with a bit of practice), which you can capture and prevent
from ending up inside the pipework. I used it for the whole
heating system, water and gas pipes, and the original blade
still works fine (although I had to replace the wheeled
cutter blade near the end of the job).

When practising, be careful so that if the tool slips out of
the end of the pipe, you don't end up jabbing it in your eye.
That looked worrying easy to do by accident.

--
Andrew Gabriel

=======================
Much cheaper he https://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=040213421

Cic.

"Cicero" wrote in message
news

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"PM" writes:
I bought a deburring tool
(http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=13315) and although
there's
only one way it can work - shove it in the pipe, turn - I'm not getting
satisfactory results. The tool does shave off copper, but there is still
a
burr. If I continue until there is no burr, I've removed so much copper
that
the wall at the cut end of the pipe now tapers from the inside out and
is
very thin. In other words the tool removes the 'good' wall of the pipe
as
well as the burr.

When I installed my central heating, I treated myself to a good
quality wheeled pipe cutter. Slotted into the body of it was a
separate deburrer of a type I'd never seen before, and without
any instructions, it took me a few moments to work out how to
use it, but it's brilliant once you have. I can't see the same
make anywhere on the web, but this one is the same principle:

http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/234-1522

One nice thing about it is the burr comes off in one piece
(with a bit of practice), which you can capture and prevent
from ending up inside the pipework. I used it for the whole
heating system, water and gas pipes, and the original blade
still works fine (although I had to replace the wheeled
cutter blade near the end of the job).

When practising, be careful so that if the tool slips out of
the end of the pipe, you don't end up jabbing it in your eye.
That looked worrying easy to do by accident.

--
Andrew Gabriel

=======================
Much cheaper he https://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=040213421

Just use a cone cutter on a drill/driver. It takes seconds and a perfect
edge to the end of the pipe.

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
Just use a cone cutter on a drill/driver. It takes seconds and a
perfect edge to the end of the pipe.

Don't you own a conventional pipe cutter with the 'V' on the end to remove
burrs? So have a very expensive solution to a non existing problem?

Remind us again why you wouldn't pay out the few quid for a plastic pipe
cutter and used a hacksaw...

--
*If you remember the '60s, you weren't really there

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

Just use a cone cutter on a drill/driver.
It takes seconds and a
perfect edge to the end of the pipe.

Don't you own a conventional pipe
cutter with the 'V' on the end to remove
burrs?

Yep.

So have a very expensive solution
to a non existing problem?

You obviously don't know. Wheel cutters crimp over the end of the pipe. A
cone cutter gets rid of the burr and bent over crimp in seconds with no
effort. The cutter can also be used for other things too. Isn't that
amazing?

Remind us again why you wouldn't
pay out the few quid for a plastic pipe
cutter

I have a very expensive plastic pipe cutter.

and used a hacksaw...

I use a hacksaw for many things. Boy is this one senile.

On Fri, 03 Mar 2006 14:57:29 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
SuitSat wrote:
I must confess I don't have any issues with my ancient 20 year old pipe
cutter. It doesn't leave burrs. I only have issues when pipe is cut with
a hacksaw.

Wheeled cutters leave a rolled over lip, though. That's what the 'V' on
the end of most is used for - to remove it.

I'm not sure that it's a problem. So long as any swarf is removed it
should be OK.

What you want to eliminate are any bits that could potentially break
off and circulate in the system, rather than making the end of the
pipe perfectly smooth.

sponix

"Sponix" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 03 Mar 2006 14:57:29 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
SuitSat wrote:
I must confess I don't have any issues with my ancient 20 year old pipe
cutter. It doesn't leave burrs. I only have issues when pipe is cut with
a hacksaw.

Wheeled cutters leave a rolled over lip, though. That's what the 'V' on
the end of most is used for - to remove it.

I'm not sure that it's a problem. So long as any swarf is removed it
should be OK.

What you want to eliminate are any bits that could potentially break
off and circulate in the system, rather than making the end of the
pipe perfectly smooth.

sponix

===================
When I bought my first DIY book on central heating it was stated very
clearly that the internal ridge caused by the pipe cutter should be removed
by the 'V' on the end of the cutter. The reason given was that this ridge
would cause an obstruction to the water flow. After a few laborious attempts
to remove the ridges I decided that they weren't going to cause much of an
obstruction anyway. I stopped trying to remove the ridges and I've never
removed since those first few attempts which usually left a sharp edge on
the pipe.

I doubt very much if there is any real danger of obstructing water flow in
the average DIY domestic installation but the purists (and responsible
professionals) might argue that the ridges should be removed in larger
installations where any possible obstruction should be avoided.

Cic.

"Cicero" wrote in message
. uk...

"Sponix" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 03 Mar 2006 14:57:29 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
SuitSat wrote:
I must confess I don't have any issues with my ancient 20 year old pipe
cutter. It doesn't leave burrs. I only have issues when pipe is cut
with
a hacksaw.

Wheeled cutters leave a rolled over lip, though. That's what the 'V' on
the end of most is used for - to remove it.

I'm not sure that it's a problem. So long as any swarf is removed it
should be OK.

What you want to eliminate are any bits that could potentially break
off and circulate in the system, rather than making the end of the
pipe perfectly smooth.

sponix

===================
When I bought my first DIY book on central heating it was stated very
clearly that the internal ridge caused by the pipe cutter should be
removed by the 'V' on the end of the cutter. The reason given was that
this ridge would cause an obstruction to the water flow. After a few
laborious attempts to remove the ridges I decided that they weren't going
to cause much of an obstruction anyway. I stopped trying to remove the
ridges and I've never removed since those first few attempts which usually
left a sharp edge on the pipe.

I doubt very much if there is any real danger of obstructing water flow in
the average DIY domestic installation but the purists (and responsible
professionals) might argue that the ridges should be removed in larger
installations where any possible obstruction should be avoided.

Collectively they do restrict flow and are a ridge to collect sludge and
crud. Use a cone cutter and battery drill/driver to remove the lot in
seconds.

"Stuart" wrote in message
...


Do you mean when the end of the pipe gets turned in slightly when you
use a pipe cutter..??

Yes


Could you utilise a round file instead ..


Could do, but it is more time consuming and I have got a lot to do.

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...

When I installed my central heating, I treated myself to a good
quality wheeled pipe cutter. Slotted into the body of it was a
separate deburrer of a type I'd never seen before, and without
any instructions, it took me a few moments to work out how to
use it, but it's brilliant once you have. I can't see the same
make anywhere on the web, but this one is the same principle:

http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/234-1522


Just ordered the Screwfix equivalent, I'll give it a try.


One nice thing about it is the burr comes off in one piece
(with a bit of practice), which you can capture and prevent
from ending up inside the pipework. I used it for the whole
heating system, water and gas pipes, and the original blade
still works fine (although I had to replace the wheeled
cutter blade near the end of the job).

When practising, be careful so that if the tool slips out of
the end of the pipe, you don't end up jabbing it in your eye.
That looked worrying easy to do by accident.

I was once fitting a brake shoe spring with a pair of needle nose pliers
when they slipped, they went straight up into my face, luckily I wear
glasses because it hit my glasses hard enough to knock them across the drive
and bruised my face. The gouge on my glasses lens was dead centre, I reckon
I would have lost an eye had I been wearing contacts...

"PM" wrote in message
...

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...

When I installed my central heating, I treated myself to a good
quality wheeled pipe cutter. Slotted into the body of it was a
separate deburrer of a type I'd never seen before, and without
any instructions, it took me a few moments to work out how to
use it, but it's brilliant once you have. I can't see the same
make anywhere on the web, but this one is the same principle:

http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/234-1522


Just ordered the Screwfix equivalent, I'll give it a try.

Send it back and order the cone cutter.

On Mon, 6 Mar 2006 17:33:39 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"PM" wrote in message
...

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...

When I installed my central heating, I treated myself to a good
quality wheeled pipe cutter. Slotted into the body of it was a
separate deburrer of a type I'd never seen before, and without
any instructions, it took me a few moments to work out how to
use it, but it's brilliant once you have. I can't see the same
make anywhere on the web, but this one is the same principle:

http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/234-1522


Just ordered the Screwfix equivalent, I'll give it a try.

Send it back and order the cone cutter.


You're like a broken record. Which cone cutter do you have in mind?
A tapered one, presumably.....

It seems like a reasonable approach, but I would expect that the
copper comes away as fairly small particles, in which case it's also
important to make sure that these are removed rather than being left
in the pipe.



--

..andy