Hi All,

Does anybody have any experience of using the push fit plastic
connectors on central heating systems? How reliable and robust are
they? I was thinking of adding antother radiator upstairs and just
wondered how durable these fittings are. It would be a plastic section
tee'ed into a copper run.
A lot of places seem to sell it now (in Wickes at the weekend)
and I like the idea of convenience.
However am not sure about these fittings (but then I dont know how they
work) in that they only seem to seat on an O ring. Presumably it must
be reliable.
The new build houses near us seem to have had plastic almost
throughout, you could see it from the pavement during the build.

As an aside, as I mentioned last week I have a leak under a concrete
floor and was going to replace that section with new copper. Would
plastic also be suitable here?

Thanks for any advice,
Matthew

Matthew wrote:

Does anybody have any experience of using the push fit plastic
connectors on central heating systems?

Yes, many people do.


How reliable and robust are they?

They're fine.


I was thinking of adding antother radiator upstairs and just
wondered how durable these fittings are. It would be a plastic section
tee'ed into a copper run.

That would be fine, as long as you have spare heating capacity. You may
well need to re-balance.


A lot of places seem to sell it now (in Wickes at the weekend)
and I like the idea of convenience.
However am not sure about these fittings (but then I dont know how they
work) in that they only seem to seat on an O ring. Presumably it must
be reliable.

They're fine.


As an aside, as I mentioned last week I have a leak under a concrete
floor and was going to replace that section with new copper. Would
plastic also be suitable here?

If it's buried in concrete, plastic would be better.


--
Grunff

Does anybody have any experience of using the push fit plastic
connectors on central heating systems?

They're fine. I tend to use compression fittings instead, though, as I'm a
cheapskate and they're much cheaper.

As an aside, as I mentioned last week I have a leak under a concrete
floor and was going to replace that section with new copper. Would
plastic also be suitable here?

I wouldn't dream of burying copper in concrete these days. Plastic is far
superior. These days, you should either be using pipe within a pipe in a
concrete floor, or leaving the pipe channel intact and boarding over for
access.

Christian.

Matthew wrote:
Hi All,

Does anybody have any experience of using the push fit plastic
connectors on central heating systems? How reliable and robust are
they? I was thinking of adding antother radiator upstairs and just
wondered how durable these fittings are. It would be a plastic section
tee'ed into a copper run.
A lot of places seem to sell it now (in Wickes at the weekend)
and I like the idea of convenience.
However am not sure about these fittings (but then I dont know how they
work) in that they only seem to seat on an O ring. Presumably it must
be reliable.
The new build houses near us seem to have had plastic almost
throughout, you could see it from the pavement during the build.

As an aside, as I mentioned last week I have a leak under a concrete
floor and was going to replace that section with new copper. Would
plastic also be suitable here?

Thanks for any advice,
Matthew

I've always used JG Speedfit fittings and haven't had any problems.
Copper is fine with me but plastic pipe hidden away can save a lot of
time with awkward runs.

How do the plastic fittings fair on mains pressure water, say 5 bar,
hot and cold?

Thanks,
Matthew

Matthew wrote:
How do the plastic fittings fair on mains pressure water, say 5 bar,
hot and cold?


They're fine.


--
Grunff

'O' rings are just fine. In the oil industry they are used downhole at
15,000psi and at 175degC.

Just make sure there are NO scratches in the mating area where the 'O'
ring makes the seal.

Also don't forget to lock them.

Chris.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Matthew wrote:

Hi All,

Does anybody have any experience of using the push fit plastic
connectors on central heating systems? How reliable and robust are
they? I was thinking of adding antother radiator upstairs and just
wondered how durable these fittings are. It would be a plastic section
tee'ed into a copper run.
A lot of places seem to sell it now (in Wickes at the weekend)
and I like the idea of convenience.
However am not sure about these fittings (but then I dont know how
they work) in that they only seem to seat on an O ring. Presumably it
must be reliable.
The new build houses near us seem to have had plastic almost
throughout, you could see it from the pavement during the build.

As an aside, as I mentioned last week I have a leak under a concrete
floor and was going to replace that section with new copper. Would
plastic also be suitable here?

Thanks for any advice,
Matthew

Plastic pipe and push-fit fittings are fine for central heating systems -
and for domestic hot and cold water distribution - with a couple of
exceptions. You can't use plastic pipe within a metre or so of a boiler.
Also, I wouldn't use it in situations where is needs to support something,
such as a pump or zone valve.

For central heating, you *must* use barrier pipe - which prevents oxygen
molecules from permeating through the walls. AIUI, Hep2O is made in barrier
and non-barrier versions, so you need the right type. I think JG Speedfit
pipe is *all* barrier.

You can mix and match copper and plastic pipe - and fittings. For example,
you can use compression fitting on plastic pipe - provided you use pipe
inserts in the ends - or you can use push-fit fittings on copper pipe.

Push-fit fittings use a star-lock washer which digs into the pipe and grips
it, and an O-ring to provide a seal. They are all good for pressures of up
to 9 or 10 bar. Many types can be de-mounted. I like the variety of JG
Speedfit fittings which have a bit which rotates to lock them, stopping them
from being accidentally demounted. But they are a bit bulky. For neatness,
where the fitting shows - particularly if using copper pipe - I use copper
push-fit fittings which are much slimmer.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Please reply to newsgroup.
Reply address IS valid, but is disposable in the event of excessive
spam.

On 20 Feb 2006 03:15:23 -0800, "Matthew" wrote:

How do the plastic fittings fair on mains pressure water, say 5 bar,
hot and cold?

Thanks,
Matthew


They work very well.

One general point is that using the proper cutting tool on the pipe,
as specified by all the manufacturers is an instruction to be
followed. They are not expensive.


--

..andy

Thanks for all the info. It looks like certain 'little plumbing' jobs
that I have
put off till later will be carried out sooner than I thought!

Where is the cheapest place to buy the plastic fittings from?

Thanks,
Matthew

On 20 Feb 2006 03:48:45 -0800, "Matthew" wrote:

Thanks for all the info. It looks like certain 'little plumbing' jobs
that I have
put off till later will be carried out sooner than I thought!

Where is the cheapest place to buy the plastic fittings from?

Thanks,
Matthew


Any of the plumbing or heating merchants or on line if you prefer at
www.bes.ltd.uk


--

..andy

In article .com,
Matthew wrote:
Thanks for all the info. It looks like certain 'little plumbing' jobs
that I have put off till later will be carried out sooner than I thought!

Where is the cheapest place to buy the plastic fittings from?

If cost is a factor copper with end feed solder fittings is even cheaper.
;-)

--
*There's two theories to arguing with a woman. Neither one works *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

The cheapest are the usual crowd:
www.bes.ltd.uk
www.screwfix.com

plus, you can try eBay. Do a search on this term (speedfit, speed fit,
johnguest, john guest) and you'll get a long list of items for sale.
It's usually the cheapest way to get coils of pipe and bags of
fittings, but not so good if you want a specific single fitting. I've
used this route with some success.

If you only want one or two things, it's better to go to B&Q Warehouse
or Wickes, but the fittings are about 2x the other sources.

You can also get pushfit radiator valves, if you want.

BTW, for short runs (less than 3m), I'd suggest getting the straight
lengths of pipe rather than coiled. The coiled speedfit pipe doesn't
like being straightened (especially the 22mm stuff).

Always remember to cut the pipe square and clean using the proper tool,
and use the right insert for the plastic pipe and fitting (speedfit has
two different inserts for pushfit and compression).

-Antony

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 20 Feb 2006 03:15:23 -0800, "Matthew" wrote:

How do the plastic fittings fair on mains pressure water, say 5 bar,
hot and cold?

Thanks,
Matthew


They work very well.

One general point is that using the proper cutting tool on the pipe,
as specified by all the manufacturers is an instruction to be
followed. They are not expensive.


Really? I found the proper tool didn't cut as well as a less expensive pair
of secateurs.

Andy.


--
PLEASE remove spam_off to reply

--

.andy

On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 20:45:34 -0000, "Andy Evans"
wrote:



"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On 20 Feb 2006 03:15:23 -0800, "Matthew" wrote:

How do the plastic fittings fair on mains pressure water, say 5 bar,
hot and cold?

Thanks,
Matthew


They work very well.

One general point is that using the proper cutting tool on the pipe,
as specified by all the manufacturers is an instruction to be
followed. They are not expensive.


Really? I found the proper tool didn't cut as well as a less expensive pair
of secateurs.

Andy.



I don't know what you bought.

Certainly the blade needs to be sharp so that the pipe is cleanly
sliced rather than crushed.

This Monument one is pretty good, having an anvil to steady the pipe
square as well as a ratchet action

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp...ite&PID=129359

--

..andy

"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message
...
On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 20:45:34 -0000, "Andy Evans"
wrote:

"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message
. ..
On 20 Feb 2006 03:15:23 -0800, "Matthew" wrote:

How do the plastic fittings fair on mains pressure water, say 5 bar,
hot and cold?

Thanks,
Matthew

They work very well.

One general point is that using the proper cutting tool on the pipe,
as specified by all the manufacturers is an instruction to be
followed. They are not expensive.

Really? I found the proper tool didn't cut as well as a less expensive
pair
of secateurs.

Andy.



I don't know what you bought.

Certainly the blade needs to be sharp so that the pipe is cleanly
sliced rather than crushed.

This Monument one is pretty good, having an anvil to steady the pipe
square as well as a ratchet action

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp...ite&PID=129359


Matt, it is not good at all and a waste of money. I have used one. You have
to compress the blade and body of the cutters together, which can nick your
hands, so the ratchet can catch the next notch. It also can leave a sharpish
edge that may nick the O ring. I would rather us a hacksaw and finish off
with a file or sharp Stanley knife to get the square clean edge than use
that tool.

Best avoided.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 23:57:40 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message

I don't know what you bought.

Certainly the blade needs to be sharp so that the pipe is cleanly
sliced rather than crushed.

This Monument one is pretty good, having an anvil to steady the pipe
square as well as a ratchet action

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp...ite&PID=129359


Matt, it is not good at all and a waste of money. I have used one.

Either you had a dud one or you are cack handed.

Mine works fine.


You have
to compress the blade and body of the cutters together, which can nick your
hands, so the ratchet can catch the next notch.

You're not supposed to put your fingers in the way......



It also can leave a sharpish
edge that may nick the O ring.

You are meant to have a clean square edge. If you do that and insert
the tube according to the instructions, then nothing bad will happen.


I would rather us a hacksaw and finish off
with a file or sharp Stanley knife to get the square clean edge than use
that tool.

Mmmm.... and it's a matter of record as to what happened to you when
you tried that.

--

..andy

"Andy Hall" akak Matt wrote in message
...
On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 23:57:40 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message

I don't know what you bought.

Certainly the blade needs to be sharp so that the pipe is cleanly
sliced rather than crushed.

This Monument one is pretty good, having an anvil to steady the pipe
square as well as a ratchet action

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp...ite&PID=129359


Matt, it is not good at all and a waste of money. I have used one.

Either you had a dud one or you are cack handed.

Matt, it was not dud, pretty new, and a poor design. The ratchet steps are
too far apart.

Mine works fine.

You have to compress the blade and
body of the cutters together, which can nick your
hands, so the ratchet can catch the next notch.

You're not supposed to put your fingers in the way......

You have to hold the blade and body together for the fratchet to catch.
Your fingers can get nicked.

It also can leave a sharpish
edge that may nick the O ring.

You are meant to have a clean square edge.

Matt, that is so, but it doesn't always give one.

If you do that and insert
the tube according to the instructions,
then nothing bad will happen.

Nothing does happen unless you hold the two together as you squeeze the
handles together

I would rather us a hacksaw and finish off
with a file or sharp Stanley knife to get
the square clean edge than use
that tool.

Mmmm.... and it's a matter of record
as to what happened to you when
you tried that.

I have done that regularly and always had a square clean edge as I am a
craftsman. These cutters are supposed to make matters quicker, but don't
deliver on usability and the result, which is not good enough as I had to
use a fine file to take away the nicks. A waste of time. Monument rebaged
the tool and obviously never tested it out.

In article ,
Andy Hall wrote:
I would rather us a hacksaw and finish off with a file or sharp
Stanley knife to get the square clean edge than use that tool.

Mmmm.... and it's a matter of record as to what happened to you when
you tried that.

See other threads about the water shortage...

--
*Money isn't everything, but it sure keeps the kids in touch.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Doctor Drivel wrote:

leave a sharpish edge that may nick the O ring. I would rather us a
hacksaw and finish off with a file or sharp Stanley knife to get the
square clean edge than use that tool.

Given your success with this method in the past you are not really
qualified to comment.

Ignore the resident troll, and get a decent pipe cutter.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Tue, 21 Feb 2006 00:33:16 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Andy Hall" akak Matt wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 23:57:40 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message

I don't know what you bought.

Certainly the blade needs to be sharp so that the pipe is cleanly
sliced rather than crushed.

This Monument one is pretty good, having an anvil to steady the pipe
square as well as a ratchet action

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp...ite&PID=129359


Matt, it is not good at all and a waste of money. I have used one.

Either you had a dud one or you are cack handed.

Matt, it was not dud, pretty new, and a poor design. The ratchet steps are
too far apart.

Only if you're cack handed.



Mine works fine.

You have to compress the blade and
body of the cutters together, which can nick your
hands, so the ratchet can catch the next notch.

You're not supposed to put your fingers in the way......

You have to hold the blade and body together for the fratchet to catch.
Your fingers can get nicked.

No you don't.




It also can leave a sharpish
edge that may nick the O ring.

You are meant to have a clean square edge.

Matt, that is so, but it doesn't always give one.

Goodness knows what you were doing.






I have done that regularly and always had a square clean edge as I am a
craftsman.

ROTFL.


These cutters are supposed to make matters quicker, but don't
deliver on usability and the result, which is not good enough as I had to
use a fine file to take away the nicks.

Were you using it upside down or something, or had you tried to cut
copper with it?

The purpose is not so much speed, alhough it does that but to get a
clean, square edge to the end of the pipe.


A waste of time. Monument rebaged
the tool and obviously never tested it out.

A poor workman......



--

..andy

"Grunff" wrote in message
...
Matthew wrote:

Does anybody have any experience of using the push fit plastic
connectors on central heating systems?

Yes, many people do.


How reliable and robust are they?

They're fine.

You don't have much experience of them to come out with that.

I was thinking of adding antother radiator upstairs and just
wondered how durable these fittings are. It would be a plastic section
tee'ed into a copper run.

That would be fine, as long as you have spare heating capacity. You may
well need to re-balance.

A lot of places seem to sell it now (in Wickes at the weekend)
and I like the idea of convenience.
However am not sure about these fittings (but then I dont know how they
work) in that they only seem to seat on an O ring. Presumably it must
be reliable.

They're fine.

See my posts on pushfits.

As an aside, as I mentioned last week I have a leak under a concrete
floor and was going to replace that section with new copper. Would
plastic also be suitable here?

If it's buried in concrete, plastic would be better.

As long as there are no joints and best joint the pipe using standard
compression joints.

wrote in message
oups.com...
'O' rings are just fine. In the oil industry they are used downhole at
15,000psi and at 175degC.

Just make sure there are NO scratches in the mating area where the 'O'
ring makes the seal.

Also don't forget to lock them.

Best forget the pushfits and use standard compression joints.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 20 Feb 2006 03:15:23 -0800, "Matthew" wrote:

How do the plastic fittings fair on mains pressure water, say 5 bar,
hot and cold?

Thanks,
Matthew

They work very well.

Another with little exposure to pushfits.

When using normal compression joints instead of pushfits, there is no need
to buy an expensive plastic pipe cutter. Cutting with a hacksaw and removing
swarf and burred edges is all that is needed.

"Andy Hall" akak Matt wrote in message
...
On Tue, 21 Feb 2006 00:33:16 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message
. ..
On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 23:57:40 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message

I don't know what you bought.

Certainly the blade needs to be sharp so that the pipe is cleanly
sliced rather than crushed.

This Monument one is pretty good, having an anvil to steady the pipe
square as well as a ratchet action

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp...ite&PID=129359


Matt, it is not good at all and a waste of money. I have used one.

Either you had a dud one or you are cack handed.

Matt, it was not dud, pretty new, and a poor design. The ratchet steps
are
too far apart.

Only if you're cack handed.



Mine works fine.

You have to compress the blade and
body of the cutters together, which can nick your
hands, so the ratchet can catch the next notch.

You're not supposed to put your fingers in the way......

You have to hold the blade and body together for the ratchet to catch.
Your fingers can get nicked.

No you don't.

Matt, you have never used one of these substandard cutters then.

It also can leave a sharpish
edge that may nick the O ring.

You are meant to have a clean square edge.

Matt, that is so, but it doesn't always give one.

Goodness knows what you were doing.

Putting the pipe in square and sweezing the handles, and then using one hand
to ensure the blade and body come together otherwise no cut.

I have done that regularly and always
had a square clean edge as I am a
craftsman.

ROTFL.

Matt, you can get therapy for laughing at nothing.

These cutters are supposed to make matters quicker, but don't
deliver on usability and the result, which is not good enough as I had to
use a fine file to take away the nicks.

Were you using it upside down or something, or had you tried to cut
copper with it?

The purpose is not so much speed, alhough it does that but to get a
clean, square edge to the end of the pipe.

It rarely does that.

A waste of time. Monument rebaged
the tool and obviously never tested it out.

A poor workman......

....has no money.

"John Rumm" akak Essex Chav wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel wrote:

leave a sharpish edge that may nick the O ring. I would rather us a
hacksaw and finish off with a file or sharp Stanley knife to get the
square clean edge than use that tool.

Given your success

Which is 100% as I am a craftsman. Chav, how are swirly pattened carpets?

"Roger Mills (aka Set Square)" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Matthew wrote:

Hi All,

Does anybody have any experience of using the push fit plastic
connectors on central heating systems? How reliable and robust are
they? I was thinking of adding antother radiator upstairs and just
wondered how durable these fittings are. It would be a plastic section
tee'ed into a copper run.
A lot of places seem to sell it now (in Wickes at the weekend)
and I like the idea of convenience.
However am not sure about these fittings (but then I dont know how
they work) in that they only seem to seat on an O ring. Presumably it
must be reliable.
The new build houses near us seem to have had plastic almost
throughout, you could see it from the pavement during the build.

As an aside, as I mentioned last week I have a leak under a concrete
floor and was going to replace that section with new copper. Would
plastic also be suitable here?

Thanks for any advice,
Matthew

Plastic pipe and push-fit fittings are fine for central heating systems -
and for domestic hot and cold water distribution - with a couple of
exceptions. You can't use plastic pipe within a metre or so of a boiler.

Depends on the boiler

Also, I wouldn't use it in situations where is needs to support something,
such as a pump or zone valve.

For central heating, you *must* use barrier pipe - which prevents oxygen
molecules from permeating through the walls. AIUI, Hep2O is made in
barrier and non-barrier versions, so you need the right type. I think JG
Speedfit pipe is *all* barrier.

You can mix and match copper and plastic pipe - and fittings. For example,
you can use compression fitting on plastic pipe - provided you use pipe
inserts in the ends

The best and avoid the pushfits.

"Matthew" wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks for all the info. It looks like certain 'little plumbing' jobs
that I have
put off till later will be carried out sooner than I thought!

Where is the cheapest place to buy the plastic fittings from?

Forget what the amateurs say, their exposure to these system is limited to
say the least. Buy the pipe but forget the pushfits, either plastic or
copper. Use standard compression joints on the plastic pipe.

On Tue, 21 Feb 2006 09:55:22 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On 20 Feb 2006 03:15:23 -0800, "Matthew" wrote:

How do the plastic fittings fair on mains pressure water, say 5 bar,
hot and cold?

Thanks,
Matthew

They work very well.

Another with little exposure to pushfits.

When using normal compression joints instead of pushfits, there is no need
to buy an expensive plastic pipe cutter. Cutting with a hacksaw and removing
swarf and burred edges is all that is needed.


Apart from mopping up afterwards.....


--

..andy

"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message
...
On Tue, 21 Feb 2006 09:55:22 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message
. ..
On 20 Feb 2006 03:15:23 -0800, "Matthew" wrote:

How do the plastic fittings fair on mains pressure water, say 5 bar,
hot and cold?

Thanks,
Matthew

They work very well.

Another with little exposure to pushfits.

When using normal compression joints instead of pushfits, there is no need
to buy an expensive plastic pipe cutter. Cutting with a hacksaw and
removing
swarf and burred edges is all that is needed.

Apart from mopping up afterwards.....

Matt, you only brush up swarf. Boy you are dumb at times.

"Matthew" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi All,

Does anybody have any experience
of using the push fit plastic
connectors

See this link.

http://www.screwfix.com/talk/thread.jspa?threadID=31314&start=0&tstart=0

Mainly professionals talking about pushfits. Far too many failures and a
generally unfavourable view.

On Tue, 21 Feb 2006 11:51:20 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Matthew" wrote in message
roups.com...
Hi All,

Does anybody have any experience
of using the push fit plastic
connectors

See this link.

http://www.screwfix.com/talk/thread.jspa?threadID=31314&start=0&tstart=0

Mainly professionals talking about pushfits. Far too many failures and a
generally unfavourable view.


Are these the guys that you find hanging around at your counter
bemoaning condensing boilers?


--

..andy

"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message
...
On Tue, 21 Feb 2006 11:51:20 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Matthew" wrote in message
groups.com...
Hi All,

Does anybody have any experience
of using the push fit plastic
connectors

See this link.

http://www.screwfix.com/talk/thread.jspa?threadID=31314&start=0&tstart=0

Mainly professionals talking about pushfits. Far too many failures and a
generally unfavourable view.

Are these the guys that you find hanging around at your counter
bemoaning condensing boilers?

Matt, what counter woudl this be? Push does not come out of it well, and
neither does Hep2O. Sad but true. So, Matt rip out all that plastic in
your house ASAP.

Doctor Drivel wrote:
"Matthew" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi All,

Does anybody have any experience
of using the push fit plastic
connectors

See this link.

http://www.screwfix.com/talk/thread.jspa?threadID=31314&start=0&tstart=0

Mainly professionals talking about pushfits. Far too many failures and a
generally unfavourable view.

I wouldn't say far too many failures, there seems to be about 2
discussed on there and one was found by another plumber so there is no
clue to what the original installer did or failed to do. Plus it was
with Hep stuff, I prefer JG.

wrote in message
ups.com...

Doctor Drivel wrote:
"Matthew" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi All,

Does anybody have any experience
of using the push fit plastic
connectors

See this link.

http://www.screwfix.com/talk/thread.jspa?threadID=31314&start=0&tstart=0

Mainly professionals talking about pushfits. Far too many failures and a
generally unfavourable view.

I wouldn't say far too many failures, there seems to be about 2
discussed on there and one was found by another plumber so there is no
clue to what the original installer did or failed to do. Plus it was
with Hep stuff, I prefer JG.

The archives of that forum is full of plastic push fit disasters reported by
pros. They tend to be catastrophic, like the fitting shooting off the pipe
and a full bore pouring out water under the floors. One thread had one
plumber attending a pushfit leak and the customer got him to price up
removing them all for compression.

The most problematic fittings are pushfit a marathon.