Is there a valid reason to buy these expensive paints especially for
kitchens or are they an expensive extravagance?

--
Steve

Remove "nospam" from email address to reply to me personally

What effing paint you plonker?

"Weatherlawyer" wrote in message
ups.com...

What effing paint you plonker?


If you can't be civil why bother?

But since you ask, and its a valid question I will tell you.

I was specifically looking at Dulux Kitchen and bathroom paint but its the
principal more than specifics. The same question would apply to Crown
Kitchen emulsion or any other make of special kitchen emulsion.

--
Steve

Remove "nospam" from email address to reply to me personally

Steve Rainbird wrote:
Is there a valid reason to buy these expensive paints especially for
kitchens or are they an expensive extravagance?

I don't think they're worth the extra - they are (AFAIK) supposed
to have a vaguely anti-condensation effect, but if it's not a
problem... I'd just use ordinary emulsion/gloss, if there's an
issue it's better to fix it properly.

"Chris Bacon" wrote in message
...
Steve Rainbird wrote:
Is there a valid reason to buy these expensive paints especially for
kitchens or are they an expensive extravagance?

I don't think they're worth the extra - they are (AFAIK) supposed
to have a vaguely anti-condensation effect, but if it's not a
problem... I'd just use ordinary emulsion/gloss, if there's an
issue it's better to fix it properly.


Thanks Chris that's what I suspected the answer might be. We have a fairly
large kitchen and condensation is rarely a problem.


--
Steve

Remove "nospam" from email address to reply to me personally

In article
Steve Rainbird wrote:
"Weatherlawyer" wrote in message
ups.com...

What effing paint you plonker?


If you can't be civil why bother?

I think he's just commenting that you didn't include "kitchen paint" in
the body of the message. Messages shouldn't rely on the subject line to
give them meaning, any more than you should post a followup without
quoting or summarising relevant parts of the message to which you are
replying.

"Rob Morley" wrote in message
t...
In article
Steve Rainbird wrote:
"Weatherlawyer" wrote in message
ups.com...

What effing paint you plonker?


If you can't be civil why bother?

I think he's just commenting that you didn't include "kitchen paint" in
the body of the message. Messages shouldn't rely on the subject line to
give them meaning, any more than you should post a followup without
quoting or summarising relevant parts of the message to which you are
replying.



I don't mind criticism its just rudeness I don't like.

--
Steve

Remove "nospam" from email address to reply to me personally

In article
Steve Rainbird wrote:
"Rob Morley" wrote in message
t...
In article
Steve Rainbird wrote:
"Weatherlawyer" wrote in message
ups.com...

What effing paint you plonker?


If you can't be civil why bother?

I think he's just commenting that you didn't include "kitchen paint" in
the body of the message. Messages shouldn't rely on the subject line to
give them meaning, any more than you should post a followup without
quoting or summarising relevant parts of the message to which you are
replying.



I don't mind criticism its just rudeness I don't like.


But ... but ... this is Usenet, populated by people with minimal social
skills, many of them extremely challenged in the personality department
;^

"Rob Morley" wrote in message
t...
In article
Steve Rainbird wrote:
"Weatherlawyer" wrote in message
ups.com...

What effing paint you plonker?


If you can't be civil why bother?

I think he's just commenting that you didn't include "kitchen paint" in
the body of the message. Messages shouldn't rely on the subject line to
give them meaning, any more than you should post a followup without
quoting or summarising relevant parts of the message to which you are
replying.

I understood what he meant and I'm just a little woman.

Mary

As for the first offensive reply, I shan't bother opening any more from that
source.

Mary

"Rob Morley" wrote in message
t...


I don't mind criticism its just rudeness I don't like.


But ... but ... this is Usenet, populated by people with minimal social
skills, many of them extremely challenged in the personality department

Obviously. And they are not given any credence from the more intelligent and
polite among us.

Mary

On Wed, 8 Feb 2006 15:59:01 -0000, "Steve Rainbird"
wrote:

If you can't be civil why bother?

Because he's an idiot. Sorry.

I was specifically looking at Dulux Kitchen and bathroom paint

Kitchen paint isn't expensive, Dulux is expensive. They change the
resins around and get something that's a bit more water / dirt
resistant. Whether this is useful really depends on the kitchen layout
- if there's paint anywhere near the cooker rather than just tiles, then
yes, they're worth having.

There's plenty of good cheaper paint around though and the big names in
the big sheds are very overpriced. Try the shed's own brand, if there's
a suitable one, or see if you can find a Crown decorator centre nearby -
a great place for good paint at reasonable prices.

Steve Rainbird wrote:

I don't mind criticism its just rudeness I don't like.

I'd much rather a rude person to a thick one.

Fancy asking such a vague question and not being taken for an effing
ijut. You didn't even specify water based paint. As it happens, I have
seen that washable acrylics are on offer at nearly 1/3rd more a can. I
nearly bought some recently.

You can't wash acrylics so easily as oil based paint. I wasa painting
over some oil based painted cupboard doors. No doubt the stuff I put on
will fail. It was a rush job though and quite effective for the day or
so needed.

Had I time I would have used a PVA base coat. But I had neither time
nor PVA.

I imagine that washable water based paints contain some additive that
allows them to be used in leiu of oil based paints.

Emulsion paints, as distinguished from acrylic paints, are mere
mixtures of oils and water. They are the Trade Paints used in newly
built houses. They can "breathe"; which enables them to go on new
plaster.

Acrylics are similar to emulsions but the oil in them is a vinyl
polymer resin. So I believe at least. I dare say someone here has
delved deeper into it than I. I tend to stop when my fingers get
coated.

Oil based paints will require a base coat -which might be an emulsion
but had best be a vinyl. You then need an undercoat and then the top
coat. The undercoat is the cover and the top coat is the seal.

Before the undercoat can go on, the vinyl must be absolutely dry. It
takes a few hours before the top coat can go on -at least 4 hours after
the undercoat but a day would be better. Then the top coat which needs
a day to dry.

You can get an excellent finish but it is a long job. If these
washables are any good they will revolutionise the trade.

Oil based stuff goes much further than vinyl paint but vinyl paint,
being a thicker coat can get the job done in half a day. You can apply
the second coat as soon as the first is hand dry. (That is, when the
first coat no longer rubs off but the wall is still damp.)

Yer pays yer muny an yer takes yer choices. If you hang on it will come
down in price.
Try and be just a little more specific in your enquiries in the future,
dopey.

*******

As side note, adding something to ordinary acrylic paints will usually
weaken it. PVA for example will allow you to remove it in strips when
dry. I have no doubt there is some additive not dissimilar to PVA in
this new stuff though.

What do they put in exterior paint?
Which reminds me; I used some ordinary white acrylic to paint a reveal
on a front door once. It lasted for years.

"Weatherlawyer" wrote in message
ups.com...

Steve Rainbird wrote:

I don't mind criticism its just rudeness I don't like.

I'd much rather a rude person to a thick one.

Fancy asking such a vague question and not being taken for an effing
ijut. You didn't even specify water based paint. As it happens, I have
seen that washable acrylics are on offer at nearly 1/3rd more a can. I
nearly bought some recently.

You can't wash acrylics so easily as oil based paint. I wasa painting
over some oil based painted cupboard doors. No doubt the stuff I put on
will fail. It was a rush job though and quite effective for the day or
so needed.

Had I time I would have used a PVA base coat. But I had neither time
nor PVA.

I imagine that washable water based paints contain some additive that
allows them to be used in leiu of oil based paints.

Emulsion paints, as distinguished from acrylic paints, are mere
mixtures of oils and water. They are the Trade Paints used in newly
built houses. They can "breathe"; which enables them to go on new
plaster.

Acrylics are similar to emulsions but the oil in them is a vinyl
polymer resin. So I believe at least. I dare say someone here has
delved deeper into it than I. I tend to stop when my fingers get
coated.

Oil based paints will require a base coat -which might be an emulsion
but had best be a vinyl. You then need an undercoat and then the top
coat. The undercoat is the cover and the top coat is the seal.

Before the undercoat can go on, the vinyl must be absolutely dry. It
takes a few hours before the top coat can go on -at least 4 hours after
the undercoat but a day would be better. Then the top coat which needs
a day to dry.

You can get an excellent finish but it is a long job. If these
washables are any good they will revolutionise the trade.

Oil based stuff goes much further than vinyl paint but vinyl paint,
being a thicker coat can get the job done in half a day. You can apply
the second coat as soon as the first is hand dry. (That is, when the
first coat no longer rubs off but the wall is still damp.)

Yer pays yer muny an yer takes yer choices. If you hang on it will come
down in price.
Try and be just a little more specific in your enquiries in the future,
dopey.

*******

As side note, adding something to ordinary acrylic paints will usually
weaken it. PVA for example will allow you to remove it in strips when
dry. I have no doubt there is some additive not dissimilar to PVA in
this new stuff though.

What do they put in exterior paint?
Which reminds me; I used some ordinary white acrylic to paint a reveal
on a front door once. It lasted for years.



Another one for my killfile


--
Steve

Remove "nospam" from email address to reply to me personally

"Mary Fisher" wrote in message
t...
I understood what he meant and I'm just a little woman.

Mary

As for the first offensive reply, I shan't bother opening any more from
that source.

Mary

Me too (understanding that is .. not being a little woman!) and I don't
think most of us need that "extra" pointer to figure out what a message is
about! Is it really too much to read the goddam subject before rushing into
an idiotic and rude reply for the sake of it!? Not too much common sense
floating around here lately ....

In answer to the guy's obvious question (unless the kitchen perhaps is
underwater or located next to a blast furnace - both quite possibly likely
outcomes in the minds' of certain people) ... no, there is usually no need
for special paint in a kitchen. Normal emulsion will do just fine.
However, if you don't have proper ventilation (ie. a good extractor fan)
then grease buildup will be an issue where you cook, so these special paints
may then be of benefit to you, as they are allegedly more resistant to
moisture and more easy to clean (and perhaps mould resistant too?).

Also, if you don't have either tiles or a metal splash area around your
cooker, ordinary emulsion ain't going to cut it too well. Mind you, neither
is the plaster or wallpaper chances are, so tile it!! ;p




a

al wrote:
"Mary Fisher" wrote in message

As for the first offensive reply, I shan't bother opening any more from that source.

In talking to myself I shall at least be sure of having one sensible
person to speak to.

Is it really too much to read the goddam subject before rushing into
an idiotic and rude reply for the sake of it!? Not too much common sense
floating around here lately ....

Quite.

On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 21:25:29 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

Kitchen paint isn't expensive, Dulux is expensive. They change the
resins around and get something that's a bit more water / dirt
resistant. Whether this is useful really depends on the kitchen layout
- if there's paint anywhere near the cooker rather than just tiles,

or kids with grubby hands maybe...

then
yes, they're worth having.

cheers,
Pete.

"Pete C" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 21:25:29 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

Kitchen paint isn't expensive, Dulux is expensive. They change the
resins around and get something that's a bit more water / dirt
resistant. Whether this is useful really depends on the kitchen layout
- if there's paint anywhere near the cooker rather than just tiles,

or kids with grubby hands maybe...

then
yes, they're worth having.

cheers,
Pete.


I do have one of those! But that applies to the rest of the house as well.

In any case thanks (almost) all for there opinions.

--
Steve

Remove "nospam" from email address to reply to me personally

Mary Fisher wrote:

As for the first offensive reply, I shan't bother opening any more from that
source.

Go on, it's fun watching it make a complete prat of itself.

MBQ

wrote in message
oups.com...

Mary Fisher wrote:

As for the first offensive reply, I shan't bother opening any more from
that
source.

Go on, it's fun watching it make a complete prat of itself.

Yes but my life's too short - and valuable. I'll stick with the posters I
know to be sensible - even when I don't always agree with them :-)

Mary

MBQ

"Pete C" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 21:25:29 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

Kitchen paint isn't expensive, Dulux is expensive. They change the
resins around and get something that's a bit more water / dirt
resistant. Whether this is useful really depends on the kitchen layout
- if there's paint anywhere near the cooker rather than just tiles,

or kids with grubby hands maybe...

And men with grubby hands.

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!

He's just spent ages stripping, preparing, priming, under-coating and top
coating the kithen doors (after 20 years they needed drastic action and
they're unlikely to be done again in our lifetime) and he STILL doesn't use
the door handles!

He will, I'm "Ahem" ing every timeI see it. He's getting the message. I've
told him that you can get nice pieces of plastic to screw on doors, with
pretty pictures on them or cute cartoon figures (not that one). I've
threatened to get a man in to do it all again.

Something will work.

We used Ecos paint which hasn't had a long enough test yet and were given
some very nice new tiles which are now behind the cooker. They covered two
square metres so weshan't have to worry about cleaning mess there any more.

That is I shan't have to worry ... :-)

Mary

then
yes, they're worth having.

cheers,
Pete.

"Steve Rainbird" wrote in message
...
"Pete C" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 21:25:29 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

Kitchen paint isn't expensive, Dulux is expensive. They change the
resins around and get something that's a bit more water / dirt
resistant. Whether this is useful really depends on the kitchen layout
- if there's paint anywhere near the cooker rather than just tiles,

or kids with grubby hands maybe...

then
yes, they're worth having.

cheers,
Pete.


I do have one of those! But that applies to the rest of the house as well.

In any case thanks (almost) all for there opinions.

Stick around. This place is like Real Life, sometimes you have to ignore
what's going on round you but much of the time it's fun.

Mary

--
Steve

On Wed, 8 Feb 2006 15:30:19 -0000, "Steve Rainbird"
wrote:

Is there a valid reason to buy these expensive paints especially for
kitchens or are they an expensive extravagance?

I always use acrylic eggshell in kitchens/bathrooms. It's not very
expensive and it has a better moisture resistence than standard
emulsion IMHO.

Mark