In my previous house I thought it was because my TRVs were cheap and
nasty that they didn't close completely. This made it impossible to
remove a radiator for an extended period of time, as the TRV was
dripping at the rate of a maybe drop per second at ~1 psi pressure even
when closed as tightly as possible.

In my current house I have brand new, well-known UK name, good quality,
expensive, reversible flow TRVs. I decided to move the misplaced
radiator in the dining area, and thought I could disconnect it and hang
it in its new place before starting on rerouting the underfloor pipework.

Fat chance. Not even violence will stop the TRV from dripping when the
radiator is disconnected. Are there some stupid technical reasons for
why TRVs should not be able to close completely???

On Sat, 4 Feb 2006 23:00:01 +0000 (UTC), cs
wrote:

In my previous house I thought it was because my TRVs were cheap and
nasty that they didn't close completely. This made it impossible to
remove a radiator for an extended period of time, as the TRV was
dripping at the rate of a maybe drop per second at ~1 psi pressure even
when closed as tightly as possible.

In my current house I have brand new, well-known UK name, good quality,
expensive, reversible flow TRVs. I decided to move the misplaced
radiator in the dining area, and thought I could disconnect it and hang
it in its new place before starting on rerouting the underfloor pipework.

Fat chance. Not even violence will stop the TRV from dripping when the
radiator is disconnected. Are there some stupid technical reasons for
why TRVs should not be able to close completely???

The Honeywell ones I fitted a couple of years back came with
"decorators caps" that fit in place of the thermostat head and screw
the valve pin right down. I've never tried them out though...

Cheers,

Colin,

In article ,
cs writes:
In my previous house I thought it was because my TRVs were cheap and
nasty that they didn't close completely. This made it impossible to
remove a radiator for an extended period of time, as the TRV was
dripping at the rate of a maybe drop per second at ~1 psi pressure even
when closed as tightly as possible.

In my current house I have brand new, well-known UK name, good quality,
expensive, reversible flow TRVs. I decided to move the misplaced
radiator in the dining area, and thought I could disconnect it and hang
it in its new place before starting on rerouting the underfloor pipework.

Fat chance. Not even violence will stop the TRV from dripping when the
radiator is disconnected. Are there some stupid technical reasons for
why TRVs should not be able to close completely???

Most thermostatic heads don't have an 'off' position.
If you want to switch them off, you remove the head and
fit the decorator's cap which was supplied with the valve.

--
Andrew Gabriel

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

Most thermostatic heads don't have an 'off' position.
If you want to switch them off, you remove the head and
fit the decorator's cap which was supplied with the valve.

And if you have lost that, remove the head, insert 5p coin, replace the
head and screw on tight.

--
Cheers,

John.

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What a great tip, wish I'd known that before now!

John Rumm wrote:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:

Most thermostatic heads don't have an 'off' position.
If you want to switch them off, you remove the head and
fit the decorator's cap which was supplied with the valve.


And if you have lost that, remove the head, insert 5p coin, replace the
head and screw on tight.

A bit of an expensive solution ;-) but 5p and a piece of sticky tape
seems to have done the trick - thanks!!!

cs wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:

Most thermostatic heads don't have an 'off' position.
If you want to switch them off, you remove the head and
fit the decorator's cap which was supplied with the valve.


And if you have lost that, remove the head, insert 5p coin, replace the
head and screw on tight.

A bit of an expensive solution ;-) but 5p and a piece of sticky tape
seems to have done the trick - thanks!!!

Something's been bothering me about cs's reply. Please tell me you've
done what was suggested and screwed the head back on with the 5p
trapped between it and the pin. That mention of sticky tape gives me
an image of a 5p held onto the pin with tape. Not good. But if that's
what you've done you'll have found that out by now...

On 6 Feb 2006 01:56:24 -0800, "Calvin" wrote:


cs wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:

Most thermostatic heads don't have an 'off' position.
If you want to switch them off, you remove the head and
fit the decorator's cap which was supplied with the valve.


And if you have lost that, remove the head, insert 5p coin, replace the
head and screw on tight.

A bit of an expensive solution ;-) but 5p and a piece of sticky tape
seems to have done the trick - thanks!!!

Something's been bothering me about cs's reply. Please tell me you've
done what was suggested and screwed the head back on with the 5p
trapped between it and the pin. That mention of sticky tape gives me
an image of a 5p held onto the pin with tape. Not good. But if that's
what you've done you'll have found that out by now...

Probbaly just used the tape to hold the coin in place while the head
was screwed back on .




Stuart

My Honeywell ones do when you turn them to zero. Took off all my rads and replaced them just by doing that.

A bit of an expensive solution ;-) but 5p and a piece of sticky tape
seems to have done the trick - thanks!!!

Something's been bothering me about cs's reply. Please tell me you've
done what was suggested and screwed the head back on with the 5p
trapped between it and the pin. That mention of sticky tape gives me
an image of a 5p held onto the pin with tape. Not good. But if that's
what you've done you'll have found that out by now...

Nah, just to keep the 5p in place, took me a few attempts to figure out
how to defeat gravity, if I'd been chewing a gum at the time I might
have tried that instead...