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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Boiler cuts out before getting fully hot
My Glowworm micron 60FF runs fine from cold but once the system is
warmed up (but not fully up to temperature) it keeps going around the cycle: turn on, fan starts, gas ignites, runs about 10 seconds, turns off, waits 10-30 seconds, repeats. This is all with the central heating thermostat still calling for heat. So, is this indicative of a failing themistor? In other words is it indicating that the boiler water temperature is hot enough and hence not allowing the boiler to run? The boiler stat is turned full on. Also, when it is running it does a good impression of a steam engine ..... chuff .... chuff .... chuff. |
#2
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Boiler cuts out before getting fully hot
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Honeymonster wrote: My Glowworm micron 60FF runs fine from cold but once the system is warmed up (but not fully up to temperature) it keeps going around the cycle: turn on, fan starts, gas ignites, runs about 10 seconds, turns off, waits 10-30 seconds, repeats. This is all with the central heating thermostat still calling for heat. So, is this indicative of a failing themistor? In other words is it indicating that the boiler water temperature is hot enough and hence not allowing the boiler to run? The boiler stat is turned full on. Also, when it is running it does a good impression of a steam engine .... chuff .... chuff .... chuff. Do you any means (e.g. IR thermometer) of measuring the *actual* flow temperature when it starts cycling? What evidence do you have that it's not "up to temperature"? -- Cheers, Roger ______ Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address IS valid, but is disposable in the event of excessive spam. |
#3
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Boiler cuts out before getting fully hot
"Honeymonster" wrote in message oups.com... My Glowworm micron 60FF runs fine from cold but once the system is warmed up (but not fully up to temperature) it keeps going around the cycle: turn on, fan starts, gas ignites, runs about 10 seconds, turns off, waits 10-30 seconds, repeats. This is all with the central heating thermostat still calling for heat. So, is this indicative of a failing themistor? In other words is it indicating that the boiler water temperature is hot enough and hence not allowing the boiler to run? The boiler stat is turned full on. Also, when it is running it does a good impression of a steam engine .... chuff .... chuff .... chuff. ================ Buy a couple of these: http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/0000-118?eid=0023-000001 I think they're also stocked by Wickes, B&Q etc. They're reasonably accurate and if one is placed on flow and another on return they will show the difference between flow and return temperatures which is probably more significant than a maximum temperature. The manual suggests that the '....chuff ....chuff ....chuff ' ( technically 'hunting' ) is a sign that the circuit board needs to be replaced. Cic. |
#4
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Boiler cuts out before getting fully hot
In message , Cicero
writes "Honeymonster" wrote in message roups.com... My Glowworm micron 60FF runs fine from cold but once the system is warmed up (but not fully up to temperature) it keeps going around the cycle: turn on, fan starts, gas ignites, runs about 10 seconds, turns off, waits 10-30 seconds, repeats. This is all with the central heating thermostat still calling for heat. So, is this indicative of a failing themistor? In other words is it indicating that the boiler water temperature is hot enough and hence not allowing the boiler to run? The boiler stat is turned full on. Also, when it is running it does a good impression of a steam engine .... chuff .... chuff .... chuff. ================ Buy a couple of these: http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/0000-118?eid=0023-000001 I think they're also stocked by Wickes, B&Q etc. They're reasonably accurate and if one is placed on flow and another on return they will show the difference between flow and return temperatures which is probably more significant than a maximum temperature. The manual suggests that the '....chuff ....chuff ....chuff ' ( technically 'hunting' ) is a sign that the circuit board needs to be replaced. Micron pcbs are now second only to Suprimas for us now. The capacitors dry out and connectors fall off -- geoff |
#5
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Boiler cuts out before getting fully hot
"Honeymonster" wrote in message
oups.com... My Glowworm micron 60FF runs fine from cold but once the system is warmed up (but not fully up to temperature) it keeps going around the cycle: turn on, fan starts, gas ignites, runs about 10 seconds, turns off, waits 10-30 seconds, repeats. This is all with the central heating thermostat still calling for heat. So, is this indicative of a failing themistor? In other words is it indicating that the boiler water temperature is hot enough and hence not allowing the boiler to run? The boiler stat is turned full on. Also, when it is running it does a good impression of a steam engine .... chuff .... chuff .... chuff. What colour are the LEDs when on (reset & burner) - orange? If so, replace PCB. I must have changed 100s of these! The new ones have green LEDs. Look on the underside of the PCB, there'll be a scorch mark on it. Someone calls up with a Micron misbehaving, I turn up with my toolbox and a PCB. Angus |
#6
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Boiler cuts out before getting fully hot
In message , Fentoozler
writes "Honeymonster" wrote in message roups.com... My Glowworm micron 60FF runs fine from cold but once the system is warmed up (but not fully up to temperature) it keeps going around the cycle: turn on, fan starts, gas ignites, runs about 10 seconds, turns off, waits 10-30 seconds, repeats. This is all with the central heating thermostat still calling for heat. So, is this indicative of a failing themistor? In other words is it indicating that the boiler water temperature is hot enough and hence not allowing the boiler to run? The boiler stat is turned full on. Also, when it is running it does a good impression of a steam engine .... chuff .... chuff .... chuff. What colour are the LEDs when on (reset & burner) - orange? If so, replace PCB. I must have changed 100s of these! The new ones have green LEDs. Look on the underside of the PCB, there'll be a scorch mark on it. Someone calls up with a Micron misbehaving, I turn up with my toolbox and a PCB. Yup - the original ones (6 neons) were crap, the later ones (two green LEDs), however seem to be not that much better from what I'm seeing coming in for repair -- geoff |
#7
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Boiler cuts out before getting fully hot
"raden" wrote in message
... In message , Fentoozler writes "Honeymonster" wrote in message groups.com... My Glowworm micron 60FF runs fine from cold but once the system is warmed up (but not fully up to temperature) it keeps going around the cycle: turn on, fan starts, gas ignites, runs about 10 seconds, turns off, waits 10-30 seconds, repeats. This is all with the central heating thermostat still calling for heat. So, is this indicative of a failing themistor? In other words is it indicating that the boiler water temperature is hot enough and hence not allowing the boiler to run? The boiler stat is turned full on. Also, when it is running it does a good impression of a steam engine .... chuff .... chuff .... chuff. What colour are the LEDs when on (reset & burner) - orange? If so, replace PCB. I must have changed 100s of these! The new ones have green LEDs. Look on the underside of the PCB, there'll be a scorch mark on it. Someone calls up with a Micron misbehaving, I turn up with my toolbox and a PCB. Yup - the original ones (6 neons) were crap, the later ones (two green LEDs), however seem to be not that much better from what I'm seeing coming in for repair -- geoff Really? Thats a shame, I like these little boilers. With similar scorch marks too? I haven't changed many faulty 'new' PCBs I must confess - is it anything to do with the capacitors they used to send out with the PCB (they seem to have stopped this recently)? Or anything to do with the thermistor Glow-worm recommend you replace too? Do you know how may versions of PCB there have been for the generic Micron (I believe they were on the 3rd or even 4th)? Angus |
#8
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Boiler cuts out before getting fully hot
In message , Fentoozler
writes "raden" wrote in message ... In message , Fentoozler writes "Honeymonster" wrote in message egroups.com... My Glowworm micron 60FF runs fine from cold but once the system is warmed up (but not fully up to temperature) it keeps going around the cycle: turn on, fan starts, gas ignites, runs about 10 seconds, turns off, waits 10-30 seconds, repeats. This is all with the central heating thermostat still calling for heat. So, is this indicative of a failing themistor? In other words is it indicating that the boiler water temperature is hot enough and hence not allowing the boiler to run? The boiler stat is turned full on. Also, when it is running it does a good impression of a steam engine .... chuff .... chuff .... chuff. What colour are the LEDs when on (reset & burner) - orange? If so, replace PCB. I must have changed 100s of these! The new ones have green LEDs. Look on the underside of the PCB, there'll be a scorch mark on it. Someone calls up with a Micron misbehaving, I turn up with my toolbox and a PCB. Yup - the original ones (6 neons) were crap, the later ones (two green LEDs), however seem to be not that much better from what I'm seeing coming in for repair -- geoff Really? Thats a shame, I like these little boilers. With similar scorch marks too? I haven't changed many faulty 'new' PCBs I must confess - is it anything to do with the capacitors they used to send out with the PCB (they seem to have stopped this recently)? Or anything to do with the thermistor Glow-worm recommend you replace too? Do you know how may versions of PCB there have been for the generic Micron (I believe they were on the 3rd or even 4th)? The new ones suffer from a number of different problems of which about 50% seem to be controller faults - which is bad news for me Another problem is with the bespoke HT transformer which, again, is bad news for me I don't know offhand how many issue numbers they've got up to now -- geoff |
#9
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Boiler cuts out before getting fully hot
"raden" wrote in message ... In message , Fentoozler writes "Honeymonster" wrote in message groups.com... My Glowworm micron 60FF runs fine from cold but once the system is warmed up (but not fully up to temperature) it keeps going around the cycle: turn on, fan starts, gas ignites, runs about 10 seconds, turns off, waits 10-30 seconds, repeats. This is all with the central heating thermostat still calling for heat. So, is this indicative of a failing themistor? In other words is it indicating that the boiler water temperature is hot enough and hence not allowing the boiler to run? The boiler stat is turned full on. Also, when it is running it does a good impression of a steam engine .... chuff .... chuff .... chuff. What colour are the LEDs when on (reset & burner) - orange? If so, replace PCB. I must have changed 100s of these! The new ones have green LEDs. Look on the underside of the PCB, there'll be a scorch mark on it. Someone calls up with a Micron misbehaving, I turn up with my toolbox and a PCB. Yup - the original ones (6 neons) were crap, the later ones (two green LEDs), however seem to be not that much better from what I'm seeing coming in for repair -- geoff ============== Is the failure to reach temperature linked directly to the impending PCB failure or is it just a coincidence? Cic. |
#10
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Boiler cuts out before getting fully hot
In message , Cicero
writes "raden" wrote in message ... In message , Fentoozler writes "Honeymonster" wrote in message egroups.com... My Glowworm micron 60FF runs fine from cold but once the system is warmed up (but not fully up to temperature) it keeps going around the cycle: turn on, fan starts, gas ignites, runs about 10 seconds, turns off, waits 10-30 seconds, repeats. This is all with the central heating thermostat still calling for heat. So, is this indicative of a failing themistor? In other words is it indicating that the boiler water temperature is hot enough and hence not allowing the boiler to run? The boiler stat is turned full on. Also, when it is running it does a good impression of a steam engine .... chuff .... chuff .... chuff. What colour are the LEDs when on (reset & burner) - orange? If so, replace PCB. I must have changed 100s of these! The new ones have green LEDs. Look on the underside of the PCB, there'll be a scorch mark on it. Someone calls up with a Micron misbehaving, I turn up with my toolbox and a PCB. Yup - the original ones (6 neons) were crap, the later ones (two green LEDs), however seem to be not that much better from what I'm seeing coming in for repair -- geoff ============== Is the failure to reach temperature linked directly to the impending PCB failure or is it just a coincidence? It depends on what has actually failed and what is waiting to fail IYSWIM -- geoff |
#11
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Boiler cuts out before getting fully hot
"raden" wrote in message ... In message , Cicero writes "raden" wrote in message ... In message , Fentoozler writes "Honeymonster" wrote in message legroups.com... My Glowworm micron 60FF runs fine from cold but once the system is warmed up (but not fully up to temperature) it keeps going around the cycle: turn on, fan starts, gas ignites, runs about 10 seconds, turns off, waits 10-30 seconds, repeats. This is all with the central heating thermostat still calling for heat. So, is this indicative of a failing themistor? In other words is it indicating that the boiler water temperature is hot enough and hence not allowing the boiler to run? The boiler stat is turned full on. Also, when it is running it does a good impression of a steam engine .... chuff .... chuff .... chuff. What colour are the LEDs when on (reset & burner) - orange? If so, replace PCB. I must have changed 100s of these! The new ones have green LEDs. Look on the underside of the PCB, there'll be a scorch mark on it. Someone calls up with a Micron misbehaving, I turn up with my toolbox and a PCB. Yup - the original ones (6 neons) were crap, the later ones (two green LEDs), however seem to be not that much better from what I'm seeing coming in for repair -- geoff ============== Is the failure to reach temperature linked directly to the impending PCB failure or is it just a coincidence? It depends on what has actually failed and what is waiting to fail IYSWIM -- geoff ================= I see what you mean. It would be sensible for OP to change the distressed PCB and see what effect it has on temperature. Cic. |
#12
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Boiler cuts out before getting fully hot
In article ,
"Cicero" writes: ================ Buy a couple of these: http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/0000-118?eid=0023-000001 I think they're also stocked by Wickes, B&Q etc. They're reasonably accurate and if one is placed on flow and another on return they will show the difference between flow and return temperatures which is probably more significant than a maximum temperature. Stick them both on the same pipe to start with, and make sure they read the same (if you are going to be interested in the differential temperature). A large dollop of heat sink compound on the back of the thermometer where it contacts the pipe considerably helps with responsiveness and accuracy. -- Andrew Gabriel |
#13
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Boiler cuts out before getting fully hot
It's not up to temperature because the pipes in and out of the boiler
are warm but not hot. I would guess no more than 50 degrees C. |
#14
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Boiler cuts out before getting fully hot
Mine has the 2 green LEDs. They don't indicate any fault (i.e. the
boiler believes itself to be operating correctly). |
#15
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Boiler cuts out before getting fully hot
"Honeymonster" wrote in message oups.com... It's not up to temperature because the pipes in and out of the boiler are warm but not hot. I would guess no more than 50 degrees C. =============== Your room thermostat could be faulty. Try it on a much higher setting and see if it makes a difference. Cic. |
#16
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Boiler cuts out before getting fully hot
"Honeymonster" wrote in message
ups.com... Mine has the 2 green LEDs. They don't indicate any fault (i.e. the boiler believes itself to be operating correctly). Still could be a dodgy PCB, dodgy boiler stat (which is incorporated onto the PCB, or a faulty thermistor which has the incorrect resistance. It would be unusual for a room stat to go wrong, but you could link it out and see if the boiler runs for longer. Angus |
#17
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Boiler cuts out before getting fully hot
For the record, the problem was fixed by replacing the thermistor.
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