I've read lots of things about Mason's mitres and jigs and everything,
but I need to take my worktop around an external corner, not an
internal one as most articles seem to mention.
Does anyone have recommendations as to the best way of doing this?
I'm guessing a straight-forward full 45deg mitre (can I use one of
those jig thingys to do this?), but this would leave quite a sharp
pointy corner - any other suggestions?
TIA for any advice you guys can give me, Nick

I take it the sharp corner is over the corner of some base units below?

I'm guessing a straight-forward full 45deg mitre (can I use one of
those jig thingys to do this?), but this would leave quite a sharp
pointy corner - any other suggestions?

It is a lot easier with a solid worktop, as you can then ease out a nice
radiused curve at the corner with a router.

Does the budget stretch to using Beech/Iroko?

Christian.

Yes the corner will be over base units, specifically one of
those corner shelf units.

Corner_________
| ______
| |
| | wall
| |

Cheers...

"Part P Avoider" wrote in message
...

Nixfix Wrote:
I've read lots of things about Mason's mitres and jigs and everything,
but I need to take my worktop around an external corner, not an
internal one as most articles seem to mention.
Does anyone have recommendations as to the best way of doing this?
I'm guessing a straight-forward full 45deg mitre (can I use one of
those jig thingys to do this?), but this would leave quite a sharp
pointy corner - any other suggestions?
TIA for any advice you guys can give me, Nick

I take it the sharp corner is over the corner of some base units below?


--
Part P Avoider

Unfortunately not - stuck with laminate I'm afraid - I s'pose I could do a
45deg join, and then take a 45deg lop off the corner and shove some edging
strip on it to get around the sharp problem...

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
...
I'm guessing a straight-forward full 45deg mitre (can I use one of
those jig thingys to do this?), but this would leave quite a sharp
pointy corner - any other suggestions?

It is a lot easier with a solid worktop, as you can then ease out a nice
radiused curve at the corner with a router.

Does the budget stretch to using Beech/Iroko?

Christian.

Unfortunately not - stuck with laminate I'm afraid - I s'pose I could do a
45deg join, and then take a 45deg lop off the corner and shove some edging
strip on it to get around the sharp problem...

One alternative that can work is to tile the worksurface with cheap tiles on
a sheet of ply. Then you can do any shape you like, as the front of the
worksurface is done with wooden mouldings that are easy to cut in a compound
mitre saw.

Not everyone gets on with tiled surfaces, though. Many prefer it totally
flat, although it can look nice, particularly in a traditional context, and
isn't that hard to clean.

Christian.

One alternative that can work is to tile the worksurface with cheap tiles
on
a sheet of ply. Then you can do any shape you like, as the front of the
worksurface is done with wooden mouldings that are easy to cut in a
compound
mitre saw.

P.S. This is also a cheap method for using natural stone. You can get
granite tiles (30x30) for about 3 quid a pop. This makes a 3m length of
worktop cost about 100 quid, including the ply, adhesive, grout and
mouldings. In solid granite, you could be looking at a four figure sum.

Christian.