Hi

Forgot to mention in my rant about Wickes hardwood doors, that, in a moment
of inspiration, I came up with a cracking idea.

The door in question was about 3mm too wide - not an easy amount to cut off
accurately and was best done on the hinge side, to avoid the locking gear.

Not wishing to have to cut all the rebates for the hinges again, I came up
with the following idea;

I set up my circular saw and a batten to take off a 3/8" strip, then simply
glued it back on again. A little sanding and the join is invisible - the
door is now 3mm smaller, that being the width of the saw blade.

Have I just re invented the wheel, or can I claim my Nobel Prize for DIY?

Dave

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
david lang wrote:

Hi

Forgot to mention in my rant about Wickes hardwood doors, that, in a
moment of inspiration, I came up with a cracking idea.

The door in question was about 3mm too wide - not an easy amount to
cut off accurately and was best done on the hinge side, to avoid the
locking gear.

Not wishing to have to cut all the rebates for the hinges again, I
came up with the following idea;

I set up my circular saw and a batten to take off a 3/8" strip, then
simply glued it back on again. A little sanding and the join is
invisible - the door is now 3mm smaller, that being the width of the
saw blade.

Have I just re invented the wheel, or can I claim my Nobel Prize for
DIY?

Dave

It would have been easier to plane it off with an electric plane.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 00:03:54 GMT, "david lang"
wrote:

Hi

Forgot to mention in my rant about Wickes hardwood doors, that, in a moment
of inspiration, I came up with a cracking idea.

Take it back? :-)


The door in question was about 3mm too wide - not an easy amount to cut off
accurately and was best done on the hinge side, to avoid the locking gear.

Not wishing to have to cut all the rebates for the hinges again, I came up
with the following idea;

I set up my circular saw and a batten to take off a 3/8" strip, then simply
glued it back on again. A little sanding and the join is invisible - the
door is now 3mm smaller, that being the width of the saw blade.

Have I just re invented the wheel, or can I claim my Nobel Prize for DIY?



Wouldn't a plane have been easier?


--

..andy

Set Square wrote:

It would have been easier to plane it off with an electric plane.

Not so matey, then I would have to have re cut the hinge rebates, or they
wouldn't be deep enough.

Dave

david lang wrote:
Hi

Forgot to mention in my rant about Wickes hardwood doors, that, in a moment
of inspiration, I came up with a cracking idea.

The door in question was about 3mm too wide - not an easy amount to cut off
accurately and was best done on the hinge side, to avoid the locking gear.

Not wishing to have to cut all the rebates for the hinges again, I came up
with the following idea;

I set up my circular saw and a batten to take off a 3/8" strip, then simply
glued it back on again. A little sanding and the join is invisible - the
door is now 3mm smaller, that being the width of the saw blade.

Have I just re invented the wheel, or can I claim my Nobel Prize for DIY?

Dave

I'm trying to imagine what the rest of your place looks like

NT

Andy Hall wrote:
On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 00:03:54 GMT, "david lang"
wrote:


Hi

Forgot to mention in my rant about Wickes hardwood doors, that, in a moment
of inspiration, I came up with a cracking idea.


Take it back? :-)


The door in question was about 3mm too wide - not an easy amount to cut off
accurately and was best done on the hinge side, to avoid the locking gear.

Not wishing to have to cut all the rebates for the hinges again, I came up
with the following idea;

I set up my circular saw and a batten to take off a 3/8" strip, then simply
glued it back on again. A little sanding and the join is invisible - the
door is now 3mm smaller, that being the width of the saw blade.

Have I just re invented the wheel, or can I claim my Nobel Prize for DIY?




Wouldn't a plane have been easier?



One pass with a circular saw with 100% accuracy and squareness compared
to a plane? You must be kidding.
Yes, the OP has re-invented the wheel.

In article ,
says...
Hi

Forgot to mention in my rant about Wickes hardwood doors, that, in a moment
of inspiration, I came up with a cracking idea.

The door in question was about 3mm too wide - not an easy amount to cut off
accurately and was best done on the hinge side, to avoid the locking gear.

Not wishing to have to cut all the rebates for the hinges again, I came up
with the following idea;

I set up my circular saw and a batten to take off a 3/8" strip, then simply
glued it back on again. A little sanding and the join is invisible - the
door is now 3mm smaller, that being the width of the saw blade.

Have I just re invented the wheel, or can I claim my Nobel Prize for DIY?

Being a connoisseur of creative bodging I do appreciate the originality,
but it does seem to be a solution to a non-existent problem.

Rob Morley wrote:
davidlang says...
The door in question was about 3mm too wide - not an easy amount to cut off
accurately and was best done on the hinge side, to avoid the locking gear.
[snip]
I set up my circular saw and a batten to take off a 3/8" strip, then simply
glued it back on again. A little sanding and the join is invisible - the
door is now 3mm smaller, that being the width of the saw blade.

Being a connoisseur of creative bodging I do appreciate the originality,
but it does seem to be a solution to a non-existent problem.

I like the idea, too, but agree - what did you glue it with, davidlang?

On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 00:03:54 GMT, "david lang"
wrote:

Hi

Forgot to mention in my rant about Wickes hardwood doors, that, in a moment
of inspiration, I came up with a cracking idea.

The door in question was about 3mm too wide - not an easy amount to cut off
accurately and was best done on the hinge side, to avoid the locking gear.

Not wishing to have to cut all the rebates for the hinges again, I came up
with the following idea;

I set up my circular saw and a batten to take off a 3/8" strip, then simply
glued it back on again. A little sanding and the join is invisible - the
door is now 3mm smaller, that being the width of the saw blade.

Have I just re invented the wheel, or can I claim my Nobel Prize for DIY?

Somehow I've got a vision of a 3/8 wide section of door attached to
its hinges and the rest of it lying on the floor. Hope your gluing is
good :-)
--

In t,
Rob Morley scribed:


Being a connoisseur of creative bodging I do appreciate the originality,
but it does seem to be a solution to a non-existent problem.

Why 'non existant'? It was 3mm too wide for the frame. In my book, a door
wot won't shut, /is/ a bleedin' problem! ;-)

N.

"Matt" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 00:03:54 GMT, "david lang"
wrote:

Hi

Forgot to mention in my rant about Wickes hardwood doors, that, in a
moment
of inspiration, I came up with a cracking idea.

The door in question was about 3mm too wide - not an easy amount to cut
off
accurately and was best done on the hinge side, to avoid the locking gear.

Not wishing to have to cut all the rebates for the hinges again, I came up
with the following idea;

I set up my circular saw and a batten to take off a 3/8" strip, then
simply
glued it back on again. A little sanding and the join is invisible - the
door is now 3mm smaller, that being the width of the saw blade.

Have I just re invented the wheel, or can I claim my Nobel Prize for DIY?

Somehow I've got a vision of a 3/8 wide section of door attached to
its hinges and the rest of it lying on the floor. Hope your gluing is
good :-)
--

It's an article of faith amongst wood-workers and glue-makers
that the glue-join is stronger than the wood. A length of Wood,
as you'll know is actually tubes, somewhat like drinking straws,
of woody stuff 'glued' together when growing as a tree.
Interrupting the joined-together nature of these drinking straws
by removing a kerf's width of 'straws' then joining the two
exposed surfaces together with a stronger glue shouldn't lead
to the situation you've envisioned . But , as Norm says, 'You can
never have enough clamps' and one hopes David did!

--

Brian

Matt wrote:

Somehow I've got a vision of a 3/8 wide section of door attached to
its hinges and the rest of it lying on the floor. Hope your gluing is
good :-)

I presume your cut section is near enough to the edge for the hinge
screws to pass right through it into the remainder of the door.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Matt wrote:
"david lang" wrote:
Not wishing to have to cut all the rebates for the hinges again, I came up
with the following idea;

I set up my circular saw and a batten to take off a 3/8" strip, then simply
glued it back on again. A little sanding and the join is invisible - the
door is now 3mm smaller, that being the width of the saw blade.

Somehow I've got a vision of a 3/8 wide section of door attached to
its hinges and the rest of it lying on the floor. Hope your gluing is
good :-)

The screws will hold it...

John Rumm wrote:
Matt wrote:
Somehow I've got a vision of a 3/8 wide section of door attached to
its hinges and the rest of it lying on the floor. Hope your gluing is
good :-)

I presume your cut section is near enough to the edge for the hinge
screws to pass right through it into the remainder of the door.

The screws need to go through 3/8" of material before the door
timber proper, so should be OK if they're 1 1/4" long or more.

Brian Sharrock wrote:
"david lang" wrote:
Not wishing to have to cut all the rebates for the hinges again, I came up
with the following idea;

I set up my circular saw and a batten to take off a 3/8" strip, then
simply
glued it back on again. A little sanding and the join is invisible - the
door is now 3mm smaller, that being the width of the saw blade.
But , as Norm says, 'You can
never have enough clamps' and one hopes David did!

It probably wouldn't matter if he used no glue at all -
it's only holding the edge on so the paint doesn't crack
along a line...

In article ,
says...
In t,
Rob Morley scribed:


Being a connoisseur of creative bodging I do appreciate the originality,
but it does seem to be a solution to a non-existent problem.

Why 'non existant'? It was 3mm too wide for the frame. In my book, a door
wot won't shut, /is/ a bleedin' problem! ;-)

He proposed his method as an alternative to deepening the hinge rebates
and skimming 3mm off the edge, which really isn't a big job.

On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 08:45:51 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:




One pass with a circular saw with 100% accuracy and squareness compared
to a plane? You must be kidding.

Not really. It depends on the plane, its setting and the user.

A router and a clamp guide would be even better still, but ones of
this length are relatively expensive.


Yes, the OP has re-invented the wheel.

Mmmm....


--

..andy

In ,
Rob Morley scribed:
In article ,
says...
In t,
Rob Morley scribed:


Being a connoisseur of creative bodging I do appreciate the originality,
but it does seem to be a solution to a non-existent problem.

Why 'non existant'? It was 3mm too wide for the frame. In my book, a door
wot won't shut, /is/ a bleedin' problem! ;-)

He proposed his method as an alternative to deepening the hinge rebates
and skimming 3mm off the edge, which really isn't a big job.

I should imagine to an experienced carpenter, that would indeed ring true.
However, if the OP is anything like me, I too should have been chuffed to
have found another way around what I know to be a wretched job. Only in my
case, I faced the opposite problem in that I needed to make doors bigger to
fit an oversized frame. That required adding a strip of hardwood down the
hinged edge, and then making the rebates for the hinges. Ugh! :-(

N.

Set Square wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
david lang wrote:

Hi

Forgot to mention in my rant about Wickes hardwood doors, that, in a
moment of inspiration, I came up with a cracking idea.

The door in question was about 3mm too wide - not an easy amount to
cut off accurately and was best done on the hinge side, to avoid the
locking gear.

Not wishing to have to cut all the rebates for the hinges again, I
came up with the following idea;

I set up my circular saw and a batten to take off a 3/8" strip, then
simply glued it back on again. A little sanding and the join is
invisible - the door is now 3mm smaller, that being the width of the
saw blade.

Have I just re invented the wheel, or can I claim my Nobel Prize for
DIY?

Dave

It would have been easier to plane it off with an electric plane.

Does no one use a 'spear&jackson', hand plane anymore?
These damn electric planes are a bugger to use it only takes a slight pause
in the length of the wood and we have a hollow, arrrrrgh!!
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

david lang wrote:
Hi

Forgot to mention in my rant about Wickes hardwood doors, that, in a
moment of inspiration, I came up with a cracking idea.

The door in question was about 3mm too wide - not an easy amount to
cut off accurately and was best done on the hinge side, to avoid the
locking gear.

Not wishing to have to cut all the rebates for the hinges again, I
came up with the following idea;

I set up my circular saw and a batten to take off a 3/8" strip, then
simply glued it back on again. A little sanding and the join is
invisible - the door is now 3mm smaller, that being the width of the
saw blade.

Have I just re invented the wheel, or can I claim my Nobel Prize for
DIY?

Dave

When I have a couple of mm's to take of a door these are ideal for the job.
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...63614&id=20388
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:

When I have a couple of mm's to take of a door these are ideal for the job.
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...63614&id=20388

Or in other words "I've never used a surform, but I've seen them in
catalogs and they look good".


--
Grunff

Grunff wrote:
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:

When I have a couple of mm's to take of a door these are ideal for
the job.
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...63614&id=20388

Or in other words "I've never used a surform, but I've seen them in
catalogs and they look good".

You would be best trying one then.

They are a god send if your crap with a hand/electric plane.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:

You would be best trying one then.

They are a god send if your crap with a hand/electric plane.


They're very useful, certainly - but not for trimming a hardwood door!


--
Grunff

I've used this technique before but on a short length of chipboard
flooring.
I had cut a narrow piece to fit under the radiator in the bathroom but
then found that when I needed to remove for a some reason, it was a
bugger
to drop into place. Risk of jammed fingers and that. So on the
longitudinally adjacent length I cut a similair width but at an angle
of
5-10 degrees. This made dropping it into place very easy.
So going back to the piece beneath the radiator, I removed it again and
recut a strip a few mmm wide at the same angle. Then I glued and
pinned it back to radiator piece again.
This leaves the glued together radiator piece 3 mm narrower but the
radiator pipe holes allow me to shift it closer the main piece of
chipboard.

Arthur

And of course, I cut the chipboard flooring piece 'opposite' these 2
lengths at the same angle.

Andy Hall wrote:
On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 08:45:51 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:



One pass with a circular saw with 100% accuracy and squareness compared
to a plane? You must be kidding.


Not really. It depends on the plane, its setting and the user.

A router and a clamp guide would be even better still, but ones of
this length are relatively expensive.



Yes, the OP has re-invented the wheel.


Mmmm....



IMO the OP did exactly the right thing using the right tool. If you can
take precisely 3mm off the edge of a door with a plane, and keep the
edge perfectly square, then I applaud your skill and envy you your spare
time, but really this is a 5 minute job for a circular saw. With today's
tungsten blades you get virtually a planed finish anyway. Pus he didn't
have to rebate the hinges again
What is this obsession with routers for simple straight cutting? And
what's wrong with a length of 2" x 1" and a couple of clamps as a guide?

On Wed, 7 Dec 2005 10:13:32 UTC, Matt
wrote:

On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 00:03:54 GMT, "david lang"
wrote:

Hi

Forgot to mention in my rant about Wickes hardwood doors, that, in a moment
of inspiration, I came up with a cracking idea.

The door in question was about 3mm too wide - not an easy amount to cut off
accurately and was best done on the hinge side, to avoid the locking gear.

Not wishing to have to cut all the rebates for the hinges again, I came up
with the following idea;

I set up my circular saw and a batten to take off a 3/8" strip, then simply
glued it back on again. A little sanding and the join is invisible - the
door is now 3mm smaller, that being the width of the saw blade.

Have I just re invented the wheel, or can I claim my Nobel Prize for DIY?

Somehow I've got a vision of a 3/8 wide section of door attached to
its hinges and the rest of it lying on the floor. Hope your gluing is
good :-)

Use really long screws for the hinges! And ten hinges...
--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

On Wed, 7 Dec 2005 13:34:22 UTC, "nrh" wrote:

I should imagine to an experienced carpenter, that would indeed ring true.
However, if the OP is anything like me, I too should have been chuffed to
have found another way around what I know to be a wretched job. Only in my
case, I faced the opposite problem in that I needed to make doors bigger to
fit an oversized frame. That required adding a strip of hardwood down the
hinged edge, and then making the rebates for the hinges. Ugh! :-(

Ah, well...you should have sawn off a long strip a bit deeper then the
rebate, added your strip of hardwood and then put the original strip
back!

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 10:56:14 GMT, "Brian Sharrock"
wrote:

It's an article of faith amongst wood-workers and glue-makers
that the glue-join is stronger than the wood.

That's often said, but the cynical would say that if that were really
the case everything would be made of glue :-)


--

On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 15:51:54 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

Andy Hall wrote:
On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 08:45:51 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:



One pass with a circular saw with 100% accuracy and squareness compared
to a plane? You must be kidding.


Not really. It depends on the plane, its setting and the user.

A router and a clamp guide would be even better still, but ones of
this length are relatively expensive.



Yes, the OP has re-invented the wheel.


Mmmm....



IMO the OP did exactly the right thing using the right tool.

I didn't say that there was anything wrong with it, other than
sticking the cut off piece back on and being certain of proper bonding
would need either a lot of clamps or a stout bar the length of the
door and fewer clamps.

Hardwood doors are very heavy - or at least my oak ones are.

If you can
take precisely 3mm off the edge of a door with a plane, and keep the
edge perfectly square, then I applaud your skill and envy you your spare
time, but really this is a 5 minute job for a circular saw.

Actually yes I can, and it isn't time consuming. It simply requires a
decent plane, properly sharpened and set.

With today's
tungsten blades you get virtually a planed finish anyway.

On that point definitely not. Not even close.

Pus he didn't
have to rebate the hinges again

I can see the attraction. With hardwood it can be fiddly if you
haven't done it much. I've rebated for hinges using chisels,
although more typically use a little trim router, a hinge jig and a
corner chisel.


What is this obsession with routers for simple straight cutting?

No obsession at all. It's one of a number of effective techniques to
do a job like this.

And
what's wrong with a length of 2" x 1" and a couple of clamps as a guide?

The piece of 50mm x 25mm would need to be very straight. If one looks
at the typical softwood from DIY stores, that is far from the case.
I might consider it if I had freshly machine planed it myself, but
that's about it.


--

..andy

Is this dickhead IMM?

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:

Does no one use a 'spear&jackson', hand plane anymore?
These damn electric planes are a bugger to use it only takes a slight pause
in the length of the wood and we have a hollow, arrrrrgh!!
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

In article , Andy Hall
wrote:
And
what's wrong with a length of 2" x 1" and a couple of clamps as a
guide?

The piece of 50mm x 25mm would need to be very straight. If one looks
at the typical softwood from DIY stores, that is far from the case.

8' x 6" piece of Contiplas. Millimetre accuracy.

--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk
Free SEDBUK boiler database browser http://www.sda.co.uk/qsedbuk.htm
[Latest version QSEDBUK 1.10 released 4 April 2005]

Weatherlawyer wrote:
Is this dickhead IMM?

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:

Does no one use a 'spear&jackson', hand plane anymore?
These damn electric planes are a bugger to use it only takes a
slight pause in the length of the wood and we have a hollow,
arrrrrgh!! --
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite


What's your ****in problem MATE? and stop top posting.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

"Matt" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 10:56:14 GMT, "Brian Sharrock"
wrote:

It's an article of faith amongst wood-workers and glue-makers
that the glue-join is stronger than the wood.

That's often said, but the cynical would say that if that were really
the case everything would be made of glue :-)

I did say .... an article of _Faith_; not that it was true ... :-(

--

Brian

Grunff wrote:
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:

You would be best trying one then.

They are a god send if your crap with a hand/electric plane.


They're very useful, certainly - but not for trimming a hardwood door!

What are surforms good for? Cant say I've ever got far with mine.

NT

wrote:

They're very useful, certainly - but not for trimming a hardwood door!


What are surforms good for? Cant say I've ever got far with mine.

Shaping softer materials - high density foam, epoxy based filler, that
kind of thing. I'd never use one on wood.


--
Grunff

Grunff wrote:
wrote:

They're very useful, certainly - but not for trimming a hardwood door!


What are surforms good for? Cant say I've ever got far with mine.

Shaping softer materials - high density foam, epoxy based filler, that
kind of thing. I'd never use one on wood.

Ohhh! I was trying to use it on wood. Thanks!

NT

Andy Hall wrote:

IMO the OP did exactly the right thing using the right tool.


I didn't say that there was anything wrong with it, other than
sticking the cut off piece back on and being certain of proper bonding
would need either a lot of clamps or a stout bar the length of the
door and fewer clamps.

Cabinet makers would probably use masking tape. Sounds odd, but there is
a technique to applying it whereby the centre of the tape is stretched
almost to breaking point with the thumbs so that the edges curl up. The
pressure is just right for a glue joint. I've seen quite large display
fittings assembled that way, and the fixings applied next morning. A bit
of a knack to it but a real timesaver/clamp saver if you acquire it.

If you can
take precisely 3mm off the edge of a door with a plane, and keep the
edge perfectly square, then I applaud your skill and envy you your spare
time, but really this is a 5 minute job for a circular saw.


Actually yes I can, and it isn't time consuming. It simply requires a
decent plane, properly sharpened and set.


With today's
tungsten blades you get virtually a planed finish anyway.


On that point definitely not. Not even close.

If you're that fussy, you could always finish it with a plane. By then
you don't have to worry about the dimensions. To me, planers are for
finishing, not stock removal.



Pus he didn't
have to rebate the hinges again


I can see the attraction. With hardwood it can be fiddly if you
haven't done it much. I've rebated for hinges using chisels,
although more typically use a little trim router, a hinge jig and a
corner chisel.

But you enjoy it :-)

What is this obsession with routers for simple straight cutting?


No obsession at all. It's one of a number of effective techniques to
do a job like this.

But it isn't the right technique because it isn't the most efficient.
You could crosscut 2 x 1 with a router, or machine a groove with a
circular saw, but you wouldn't.



And
what's wrong with a length of 2" x 1" and a couple of clamps as a guide?


The piece of 50mm x 25mm would need to be very straight. If one looks
at the typical softwood from DIY stores, that is far from the case.
I might consider it if I had freshly machine planed it myself, but
that's about it.

Then use 6" contiboard. If nothing else, it's invariably *straight*

On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 18:34:24 +0000, Grunff wrote:

wrote:

They're very useful, certainly - but not for trimming a hardwood door!


What are surforms good for? Cant say I've ever got far with mine.

Shaping softer materials - high density foam, epoxy based filler, that
kind of thing. I'd never use one on wood.

Neither would I except with balsa - which contrary to common belief
isn't even a softwood :-)


--

Grunff wrote:
wrote:

They're very useful, certainly - but not for trimming a hardwood
door!


What are surforms good for? Cant say I've ever got far with mine.

Shaping softer materials - high density foam, epoxy based filler, that
kind of thing. I'd never use one on wood.

why would'nt you use it on wood, ie the sides of doors?

certainly they are not for use on wood wider than the blade but for taking
a few shavings of doors it's usefull.

I must point out though there are two types of blade, the hole type cutter
and the straight angled cutter.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite