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Default Wooden Floor Trimming

I have a solid wooden floor (about 15mm deep) which in places hasn't got an expansion gap left between it and the wall. I want to run a phone cable along the wall under the skirting board and in the expansion gap (to hide the cable).

What's the best way of doing this (the skirting is off) - I'll like to cut a gap of about 5mm or so) - I need to get something that will cut close to the wall. One way is to use chisels but that would be slow. A jig-saw blade might work but it would need to be rotated at 90 degrees; a rotary saw blade for a drill would do; you can get rotary blades for dremels but they don't cut deep enough.
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The3rd Earl Of Derby
 
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Default Wooden Floor Trimming

stockdam wrote:
I have a solid wooden floor (about 15mm deep) which in places hasn't
got an expansion gap left between it and the wall. I want to run a
phone cable along the wall under the skirting board and in the
expansion gap (to hide the cable).

What's the best way of doing this (the skirting is off) - I'll like to
cut a gap of about 5mm or so) - I need to get something that will cut
close to the wall. One way is to use chisels but that would be slow. A
jig-saw blade might work but it would need to be rotated at 90
degrees; a rotary saw blade for a drill would do; you can get rotary
blades for dremels but they don't cut deep enough.


Why do want to make the gap in the flooring? a chisle and hammer will cut a
sufficiant gap for cable in the plaster.

If you're putting an extension for telephone in I suggest you use four core
cable as them extension cables that you can buy cause nothing but trouble
most of the time.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite


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Quote:
Originally Posted by The3rd Earl Of Derby
Why do want to make the gap in the flooring? a chisle and hammer will cut a
sufficiant gap for cable in the plaster.

If you're putting an extension for telephone in I suggest you use four core
cable as them extension cables that you can buy cause nothing but trouble
most of the time.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
Ok so that's a different approach - thanks. I guess it would be slightly easier to track the plaster than to cut the wood - but the floor really should have an expansion joint - if it expands then it may start to warp/crack.
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