(barry martin) wrote in message news:1554787648.7670.02.2223020.1757265675.RIMEGa ...
Daniel:

DP I have several old, large, wooden drawers in my kitchen that have a wooden
DP runner on the bottom center of the drawer and a grooved wooden piece that
DP the runner slides in. These drawers hold heavy items and they do not go in
DP and out very well. Is there an easy way to retrofit these wooden drawers
DP with metal slides that have ball bearings in them? (I can send pictures of
DP the drawers and the grooved pieces to anyone who wants to see them.)

Haven't read what the others have suggested yet but here goes. Make
sure the guide is in line with the drawer -- off a little and it will
bind. Also lubricate by rubbing wax on the contact surfaces.

When I was in college I had a second-hand dresser with a couple of
sticky drawers. Putting flat head metal thumbtacks near the front of
the drawer frame seemed to fix the sticking problem: until I sold it a
few years later anyway.

-
¯ barry.martinþATþthesafebbs.zeppole.com ®

* Bad Gift Ideas: "Laxatives-Of-The-World" gift set
---
þ RoseReader 2.52á P003186
þ The Safe BBS þ Bettendorf, IA 563-359-1971
---
þ RIMEGate(tm)/RGXMod V1.13 at BBSWORLD *


Many hardware stores and all big box stores sell excellent drawer
slides that will carry heavy loads. A smooth rolling drawer is
wonderful.
You need to measure the depth of the drawer as the slides come in
lengths. Most of them are mounted on the sides of the drawer so you
need to have wood on both sides of the drawer on the inside. If there
are no wood sides to use inside then you can still buy replacement
center slides, but will have to remove the old wood guides by prying
off in most cases. Start the project by measuring, noting and going to
the store to see what would fit.

I did this many years ago on a new cabinet unit that had 6
drawers with real cheesey wood/metal slides that didn't slide at
all. I put in some hardware on the sides, but had to narrow
down the width of the drawer box itself. I didn't do a good
job, the new hardware was not that good, so we lived with poor,
sticky drawers all these years. About a year ago, we changed
around the room so I tried again. I bought new ball bearing
slides from the local home center. These were real nice and
kinda pricey, about $12 per drawer. I had to further narrow the
width of the drawer just a bit and straighten out what I had
done previously. Well, the new ones are great! These drawers
hold all kinds of heavy stuff like books, catalogs and sheet
music. They glide perfectly now. Check to see if you have
enough room to install the side ball bearing hardware, it's
really worth it. If the drawers are made solid, from good wood
and the drawer box has a little side play, it should be easy ...
not like mine.

barry martin wrote:
Daniel:

DP I have several old, large, wooden drawers in my kitchen that have a wooden
DP runner on the bottom center of the drawer and a grooved wooden piece that
DP the runner slides in. These drawers hold heavy items and they do not go in
DP and out very well. Is there an easy way to retrofit these wooden drawers
DP with metal slides that have ball bearings in them? (I can send pictures of
DP the drawers and the grooved pieces to anyone who wants to see them.)

Haven't read what the others have suggested yet but here goes. Make
sure the guide is in line with the drawer -- off a little and it will
bind. Also lubricate by rubbing wax on the contact surfaces.

When I was in college I had a second-hand dresser with a couple of
sticky drawers. Putting flat head metal thumbtacks near the front of
the drawer frame seemed to fix the sticking problem: until I sold it a
few years later anyway.

-
¯ barry.martinþATþthesafebbs.zeppole.com ®

* Bad Gift Ideas: "Laxatives-Of-The-World" gift set
---
þ RoseReader 2.52á P003186
þ The Safe BBS þ Bettendorf, IA 563-359-1971
---
þ RIMEGate(tm)/RGXMod V1.13 at BBSWORLD *

I did this many years ago on a new cabinet unit that had 6
drawers with real cheesey wood/metal slides that didn't slide at
all. I put in some hardware on the sides, but had to narrow
down the width of the drawer box itself. I didn't do a good
job, the new hardware was not that good, so we lived with poor,
sticky drawers all these years. About a year ago, we changed
around the room so I tried again. I bought new ball bearing
slides from the local home center. These were real nice and
kinda pricey, about $12 per drawer. I had to further narrow the
width of the drawer just a bit and straighten out what I had
done previously. Well, the new ones are great! These drawers
hold all kinds of heavy stuff like books, catalogs and sheet
music. They glide perfectly now. Check to see if you have
enough room to install the side ball bearing hardware, it's
really worth it. If the drawers are made solid, from good wood
and the drawer box has a little side play, it should be easy ...
not like mine.

barry martin wrote:
Daniel:

DP I have several old, large, wooden drawers in my kitchen that have a wooden
DP runner on the bottom center of the drawer and a grooved wooden piece that
DP the runner slides in. These drawers hold heavy items and they do not go in
DP and out very well. Is there an easy way to retrofit these wooden drawers
DP with metal slides that have ball bearings in them? (I can send pictures of
DP the drawers and the grooved pieces to anyone who wants to see them.)

Haven't read what the others have suggested yet but here goes. Make
sure the guide is in line with the drawer -- off a little and it will
bind. Also lubricate by rubbing wax on the contact surfaces.

When I was in college I had a second-hand dresser with a couple of
sticky drawers. Putting flat head metal thumbtacks near the front of
the drawer frame seemed to fix the sticking problem: until I sold it a
few years later anyway.

-
¯ barry.martinþATþthesafebbs.zeppole.com ®

* Bad Gift Ideas: "Laxatives-Of-The-World" gift set
---
þ RoseReader 2.52á P003186
þ The Safe BBS þ Bettendorf, IA 563-359-1971
---
þ RIMEGate(tm)/RGXMod V1.13 at BBSWORLD *

Quite possibly Accuslide hardware, class stuff. Needs about 1/2" per
side clearance.

On Mon, 28 Jul 2003 13:04:19 GMT, Art Todesco
wrote:

Check to see if you have enough room to install the side ball bearing hardware, it's
really worth it.

Quite possibly Accuslide hardware, class stuff. Needs about 1/2" per
side clearance.

On Mon, 28 Jul 2003 13:04:19 GMT, Art Todesco
wrote:

Check to see if you have enough room to install the side ball bearing hardware, it's
really worth it.