Before we have new vinyl cushionfloor (or whatever it's called) laid down in
the bathroom we've been advised to board over the floorboards to make a
smoother, more even surface, but what should we use for this? Hardboard?
Ply? MDF? And what thickness would you recommend?

TIA,

John.

John wrote:
Before we have new vinyl cushionfloor (or whatever it's called) laid down in
the bathroom we've been advised to board over the floorboards to make a
smoother, more even surface, but what should we use for this? Hardboard?
Ply? MDF? And what thickness would you recommend?

Just done this with hardboard tacked in a few places to stop it
flapping about.

Make sur you cut strategic access points for getting at light switches
underneath etc. If you do this with a square edge and a good saw, they
will butt up to each other and leave a join that wont show through the
vinyl - which is the whole point of doing it in the first place.

--
Steve F

On Wed, 9 Nov 2005 13:38:19 -0000, "John" wrote:

Before we have new vinyl cushionfloor (or whatever it's called) laid down in
the bathroom we've been advised to board over the floorboards to make a
smoother, more even surface, but what should we use for this? Hardboard?
Ply? MDF? And what thickness would you recommend?

TIA,

John.


18mm WBP (water and boil proof) ply is good both mechanically and if
any water should find its way under the covering.

It would also be suitable if you later decided that you wanted to tile
the floor and if there is a certain amount of unevenness in the
boards.

If you only ever want to have a flexible cover like vinyl, and the
floor underneath is fairly smooth and level, then 12mm would probably
be OK

--

..andy

John wrote:
Before we have new vinyl cushionfloor (or whatever it's called) laid down in
the bathroom we've been advised to board over the floorboards to make a
smoother, more even surface, but what should we use for this? Hardboard?
Ply? MDF? And what thickness would you recommend?

3mm hardboard, you only need a flat surface for the cushionfloor,
i.e. cover gaps between floorboards, "iron out" any minor changes
in level. Anything more isn't worthwhile. Make sure the fittings
are properly sealed in, and that the threshold strip is done well.
Look to see what options are available for these.

In message .com, Fitz
writes
John wrote:
Before we have new vinyl cushionfloor (or whatever it's called) laid down in
the bathroom we've been advised to board over the floorboards to make a
smoother, more even surface, but what should we use for this? Hardboard?
Ply? MDF? And what thickness would you recommend?

Just done this with hardboard tacked in a few places to stop it
flapping about.

Make sur you cut strategic access points for getting at light switches
underneath etc. If you do this with a square edge and a good saw, they
will butt up to each other and leave a join that wont show through the
vinyl - which is the whole point of doing it in the first place.


On a related note...

Our bathroom is going to need similar treatment in the near future (it's
brown, ffs, who decides to have a brown bathroom??!!). The floorboards
are nowhere near level enough to take tiles which is what we'll want.
I've read about the laying of another sheet of ply (or whatever) over
the existing boards, but how does this affect the floor level when
compared with the adjacent room, in this case the landing? Surely
raising the floor by the 12mm plus the tiles is going to result in a
significant step down into the next room? Currently there's carpet
(brown!) and it's about level.

--
Mike Buckley
RD350LC2
http://www.toastyhamster.org
BONY#38

You will of course end up with quite a significant step if you put down
12mm plywood and then tiles on top of the existing floor. It really
depends what the floor is made of. When I tiled my bathroom floor,
which was 18mm chipboard and had previously got wet and had started
disintegrating, I cut the whole lot out and replaced with 18mm WBP
plywood. It involved quite a lot of forward planning so that the new
18mm ply was positioned correctly over joists etc and careful cutting
so there were minimal gaps. I also had to bolt beams parallel to
existing joists in order to support the new floor. (Quite a lot of
hassle).

Floorboards might be easier to chop out and replace with ply, but I
suppose it depends on the configuration of the joists. You don't want
to end up with a few feet of unsupported floorboard in the next room as
a result.

mike. buckley wrote:
Our bathroom is going to need similar treatment in the near future (it's
brown, ffs, who decides to have a brown bathroom??!!). The floorboards
are nowhere near level enough to take tiles which is what we'll want.

If you really *must* do that, remove the floorboards and
replace with ply. Anything wrong with cork tiles, vinyl,
or even an approprate carpet?


I've read about the laying of another sheet of ply (or whatever) over
the existing boards, but how does this affect the floor level when
compared with the adjacent room, in this case the landing? Surely
raising the floor by the 12mm plus the tiles is going to result in a
significant step down into the next room?

Yup.

Fitz wrote:
John wrote:
Before we have new vinyl cushionfloor (or whatever it's called) laid
down in the bathroom we've been advised to board over the
floorboards to make a smoother, more even surface, but what should
we use for this? Hardboard? Ply? MDF? And what thickness would you
recommend?

Just done this with hardboard tacked in a few places to stop it
flapping about.

Make sur you cut strategic access points for getting at light switches
underneath etc. If you do this with a square edge and a good saw,
they will butt up to each other and leave a join that wont show
through the vinyl - which is the whole point of doing it in the first
place.

You shouldn't butt join hardboard due to the nature of it expanding which
will cause a rise in the board edges. A millimetre gap is required.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

You will of course end up with quite a significant step if you put down
12mm plywood and then tiles on top of the existing floor. It really
depends what the floor is made of. When I tiled my bathroom floor,
which was 18mm chipboard and had previously got wet and had started
disintegrating, I cut the whole lot out and replaced with 18mm WBP
plywood. It involved quite a lot of forward planning so that the new
18mm ply was positioned correctly over joists etc and careful cutting
so there were minimal gaps. I also had to bolt beams parallel to
existing joists in order to support the new floor. (Quite a lot of
hassle).

Floorboards might be easier to chop out and replace with ply, but I
suppose it depends on the configuration of the joists. You don't want
to end up with a few feet of unsupported floorboard in the next room as
a result.

mike. buckley wrote:
In message .com,
Fitz writes
John wrote:
Before we have new vinyl cushionfloor (or whatever it's called)
laid down in the bathroom we've been advised to board over the
floorboards to make a smoother, more even surface, but what should
we use for this? Hardboard? Ply? MDF? And what thickness would you
recommend?

Just done this with hardboard tacked in a few places to stop it
flapping about.

Make sur you cut strategic access points for getting at light
switches underneath etc. If you do this with a square edge and a
good saw, they will butt up to each other and leave a join that wont
show through the vinyl - which is the whole point of doing it in the
first place.


On a related note...

Our bathroom is going to need similar treatment in the near future
(it's brown, ffs, who decides to have a brown bathroom??!!). The
floorboards are nowhere near level enough to take tiles which is what
we'll want. I've read about the laying of another sheet of ply (or
whatever) over the existing boards, but how does this affect the
floor level when compared with the adjacent room, in this case the
landing? Surely raising the floor by the 12mm plus the tiles is
going to result in a significant step down into the next room?
Currently there's carpet (brown!) and it's about level.

Take the floorboards up and lay and screw plywood down.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
Fitz wrote:
John wrote:
Before we have new vinyl cushionfloor (or whatever it's called) laid
down in the bathroom we've been advised to board over the
floorboards to make a smoother, more even surface, but what should
we use for this? Hardboard? Ply? MDF? And what thickness would you
recommend?

Just done this with hardboard tacked in a few places to stop it
flapping about.

Make sur you cut strategic access points for getting at light switches
underneath etc. If you do this with a square edge and a good saw,
they will butt up to each other and leave a join that wont show
through the vinyl - which is the whole point of doing it in the first
place.

You shouldn't butt join hardboard due to the nature of it expanding which
will cause a rise in the board edges. A millimetre gap is required.

Bugger. What sort of expansion are you thinking of? Heat? Liquid?
Middle aged spread ;-)

--
Steve F

In message .com,
Wingedcat writes
You will of course end up with quite a significant step if you put down
12mm plywood and then tiles on top of the existing floor. It really
depends what the floor is made of. When I tiled my bathroom floor,
which was 18mm chipboard and had previously got wet and had started
disintegrating, I cut the whole lot out and replaced with 18mm WBP
plywood. It involved quite a lot of forward planning so that the new
18mm ply was positioned correctly over joists etc and careful cutting
so there were minimal gaps. I also had to bolt beams parallel to
existing joists in order to support the new floor. (Quite a lot of
hassle).

Floorboards might be easier to chop out and replace with ply, but I
suppose it depends on the configuration of the joists. You don't want
to end up with a few feet of unsupported floorboard in the next room as
a result.


OK - sounds like removal of floorboards is called for. I haven't checked
but I should be ok with the joists, they way the boards run across the
house means a big proportion of the boards run straight to the stairs so
are supported, or are v short, and another lot go under the shower
cubicle, which can presumably stay in place. I will of course be
checking this out more closely!

To reply to the other poster, we've no objection to well laid vinyl/cork
etc but the boards really are in a bit of a mess due to the previous
bodger, even vinyl will need ply laying which currently would I think
still give us a step. Still - question answered, so thanks all.

--
Mike Buckley
RD350LC2
http://www.toastyhamster.org
BONY#38

On Wed, 09 Nov 2005 13:55:57 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:

On Wed, 9 Nov 2005 13:38:19 -0000, "John" wrote:

Before we have new vinyl cushionfloor (or whatever it's called) laid down in
the bathroom we've been advised to board over the floorboards to make a
smoother, more even surface, but what should we use for this? Hardboard?
Ply? MDF? And what thickness would you recommend?

TIA,

John.


18mm WBP (water and boil proof) ply is good both mechanically and if
any water should find its way under the covering.

It would also be suitable if you later decided that you wanted to tile
the floor and if there is a certain amount of unevenness in the
boards.

If you only ever want to have a flexible cover like vinyl, and the
floor underneath is fairly smooth and level, then 12mm would probably
be OK


Hi,

I have a similar, but different requirement.

The floorboards in my bathroom are well past it and I want to lay new
suitable water/rot proof boards directly on the the floor joists (5" x
2" at 16" spacing) ready to tile directly onto.

What type of board and thickness should I use ?

Do I need to prepare the board prior to tiling, and what sort of
adhesiive ?


TIA
Hammy

Ham wrote:
On Wed, 09 Nov 2005 13:55:57 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:


On Wed, 9 Nov 2005 13:38:19 -0000, "John" wrote:


Before we have new vinyl cushionfloor (or whatever it's called) laid down in
the bathroom we've been advised to board over the floorboards to make a
smoother, more even surface, but what should we use for this? Hardboard?
Ply? MDF? And what thickness would you recommend?

TIA,

John.


18mm WBP (water and boil proof) ply is good both mechanically and if
any water should find its way under the covering.

It would also be suitable if you later decided that you wanted to tile
the floor and if there is a certain amount of unevenness in the
boards.

If you only ever want to have a flexible cover like vinyl, and the
floor underneath is fairly smooth and level, then 12mm would probably
be OK



Hi,

I have a similar, but different requirement.

The floorboards in my bathroom are well past it and I want to lay new
suitable water/rot proof boards directly on the the floor joists (5" x
2" at 16" spacing) ready to tile directly onto.

What type of board and thickness should I use ?

Do I need to prepare the board prior to tiling, and what sort of
adhesiive ?


TIA
Hammy

Hardboard is fine providing you use the proper grade

mike. buckley wrote:
Wingedcat writes
You will of course end up with quite a significant step if you put down
12mm plywood and then tiles on top of the existing floor.

OK - sounds like removal of floorboards is called for.

Rubbish. I used 6mm ply over my floorboards, plus tiles on top. I used
a floor tile edging strip across the door. Looks fine carpeted to the
edge of this.

Cheers

Paul.

In article ,
says...
Ham wrote:
snip
I have a similar, but different requirement.

The floorboards in my bathroom are well past it and I want to lay new
suitable water/rot proof boards directly on the the floor joists (5" x
2" at 16" spacing) ready to tile directly onto.

What type of board and thickness should I use ?

Do I need to prepare the board prior to tiling, and what sort of
adhesiive ?


Hardboard is fine providing you use the proper grade

Maybe you missed the bit about it being structural flooring.

Stuart Noble wrote:

The floorboards in my bathroom are well past it and I want to lay new
suitable water/rot proof boards directly on the the floor joists (5" x
2" at 16" spacing) ready to tile directly onto.

What type of board and thickness should I use ?

Do I need to prepare the board prior to tiling, and what sort of
adhesiive ?


TIA
Hammy

Hardboard is fine providing you use the proper grade

If you don't mind ending up in the room below, LOL!

MBQ

wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:

The floorboards in my bathroom are well past it and I want to lay new
suitable water/rot proof boards directly on the the floor joists (5" x
2" at 16" spacing) ready to tile directly onto.

What type of board and thickness should I use ?

Do I need to prepare the board prior to tiling, and what sort of
adhesiive ?


TIA
Hammy

Hardboard is fine providing you use the proper grade


If you don't mind ending up in the room below, LOL!

MBQ


Groan. Not concentrating again :-)