Hi everybody,
I'm trying to stick glass to metal (specially Aluminium) with glue
Loxeal UV 30-24, and I also use UV lamp (Osram e27/es 300W), but I have
some problem with that.
sometimes they stick very hard at first but will seperate in somedays
easily.
Do anyone know about that? How should I do? How should I clean the
glass? or something like that to stick them better....
Best Regards
Ati

"ati" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi everybody,
I'm trying to stick glass to metal (specially Aluminium) with glue
Loxeal UV 30-24, and I also use UV lamp (Osram e27/es 300W), but I have
some problem with that.
sometimes they stick very hard at first but will seperate in somedays
easily.
Do anyone know about that? How should I do? How should I clean the
glass? or something like that to stick them better....
Best Regards
Ati

Glass and metals have different expantion ratios. Have you taken this into
account? Often you have a sheet of rubber in the middle of the join.

ati wrote:
Hi everybody,
I'm trying to stick glass to metal (specially Aluminium) with glue
Loxeal UV 30-24, and I also use UV lamp (Osram e27/es 300W), but I
have some problem with that.
sometimes they stick very hard at first but will seperate in somedays
easily.
Do anyone know about that? How should I do? How should I clean the
glass? or something like that to stick them better....
Best Regards
Ati

What are you trying to glue together, i.e is it heat related item?
Araldite is a good bonding material for glass to ally.
Wipe/clean the glass with methylated spirits and a bit of fine wire wool on
the ally to give it a key grip, dont gouge the ally.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

On 6 Nov 2005 03:40:49 -0800, ati wrote:

I'm trying to stick glass to metal

If it gets hot, use high temperature silicone.

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=100147&ts=82162&id=13185

--
Nigel M

On 6 Nov 2005 03:40:49 -0800, ati wrote:

Hi everybody,
I'm trying to stick glass to metal (specially Aluminium) with glue
Loxeal UV 30-24, and I also use UV lamp (Osram e27/es 300W), but I have
some problem with that.
sometimes they stick very hard at first but will seperate in somedays
easily.
Do anyone know about that? How should I do? How should I clean the
glass? or something like that to stick them better....
Best Regards
Ati

Epoxy should work OK if you degrease both thoroughly

"ati" wrote:

Hi everybody,
I'm trying to stick glass to metal (specially Aluminium) with glue
Loxeal UV 30-24, and I also use UV lamp (Osram e27/es 300W), but I have
some problem with that.
sometimes they stick very hard at first but will seperate in somedays
easily.
Do anyone know about that? How should I do? How should I clean the
glass? or something like that to stick them better....

What loads are present on the bond line?

Aluminium will rapidly form an oxide film that will always make
bonding difficult, the glass would probably also benefit from an
etched surface either chemically or mechanically.

One method that does work (used in some composite structures)

Use Scotchbrite to clean the aluminium, degrease in isopropyl alcohol,
remove and dry, then submerge the aluminium completely in epoxy resin
and abrade the bonding face with a clean swab of Scotchbrite (while
keeping the aluminium completely submerged) Remove from the resin
keeping a continuous film of resin over the bonding face and then
immediately bring the bonding faces together, clamp and leave to cure.

Another alternative that might work better with less preparation would
be a polyurethane adhesive such as Sikaflex or Betaseal (as used for
bonding car windscreens)


--

thanks for your reply...
with which material should I degrease them?
I also need to know the time of UV that glow to the glue to stick and
the require tempreture.

On Sun, 06 Nov 2005 17:52:34 -0000, Matt
wrote:


Use Scotchbrite to clean the aluminium, degrease in isopropyl alcohol,
remove and dry, then submerge the aluminium completely in epoxy resin
and abrade the bonding face with a clean swab of Scotchbrite (while
keeping the aluminium completely submerged) Remove from the resin
keeping a continuous film of resin over the bonding face and then
immediately bring the bonding faces together, clamp and leave to cure.

For this strategy, total immersion is not necessary. Excluding the oxygen
from the metal surface is the name of the game. It is worth experimenting
with simply using scotchbrite or wire wool with a bit of the UV cure
adhesive on the metal , applying a bead of adhesive and curing. From the
original post I gather that the adhesion to glass is good. Have you tried
making a glass to glass testpiece to check that your batch of adhesive is
good? Finally what sort of environment will the bond be in? In the
aerospace industries a number of catastrophic failures occurred in bonded
aluminium members like mainspars. While the stress was far better
distributed than riveted members, creeping corrosion undermined the bond.
I believe a technology to remedy this has been developed.

John Schmitt

--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

On Mon, 07 Nov 2005 12:04:31 -0000, John Schmitt wrote:

On Sun, 06 Nov 2005 17:52:34 -0000, Matt
wrote:

Use Scotchbrite to clean the aluminium, degrease in isopropyl alcohol,
remove and dry, then submerge the aluminium completely in epoxy resin
and abrade the bonding face with a clean swab of Scotchbrite (while
keeping the aluminium completely submerged) Remove from the resin
keeping a continuous film of resin over the bonding face and then
immediately bring the bonding faces together, clamp and leave to cure.

For this strategy, total immersion is not necessary. Excluding the oxygen
from the metal surface is the name of the game. It is worth experimenting
with simply using scotchbrite or wire wool with a bit of the UV cure
adhesive on the metal , applying a bead of adhesive and curing. From the
original post I gather that the adhesion to glass is good. Have you tried
making a glass to glass testpiece to check that your batch of adhesive is
good? Finally what sort of environment will the bond be in? In the
aerospace industries a number of catastrophic failures occurred in bonded
aluminium members like mainspars. While the stress was far better
distributed than riveted members, creeping corrosion undermined the bond.
I believe a technology to remedy this has been developed.

John Schmitt

What is wround with the oxide layer anyway?

Its tougher than the aluminium by and large.

Ther is no need to remove anything more than loose corrosion and geraese.
The epoxy - especially if warned a little - will bond beautifully to the
microporous oxide layer.

On Tue, 08 Nov 2005 09:09:42 -0000, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

What is wround with the oxide layer anyway?

It's a ******* for adsorption. All sorts of stuff which can compromise a
bond like to adsorb onto it.

Its tougher than the aluminium by and large.

It doesn't like chlorides either. Think fingerprints, the chlorides were
implicated in those airframe problems. Come to think of it, chlorides were
a big problem for welding titanium on the A12. They are a nearly universal
corrodant for metals.

John Schmitt

--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

On Tue, 08 Nov 2005 10:56:01 -0000, John Schmitt wrote:

On Tue, 08 Nov 2005 09:09:42 -0000, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

What is wround with the oxide layer anyway?

It's a ******* for adsorption. All sorts of stuff which can compromise a
bond like to adsorb onto it.


Indeed, so clean it first, then thin the epoxy and let that adsorb in...;-)

Its possible to use isopropyl alcohol to thin epoxy to get it 'runy' - the
alcohl evpas and the epoxy then sets...

Its tougher than the aluminium by and large.

It doesn't like chlorides either. Think fingerprints, the chlorides were
implicated in those airframe problems. Come to think of it, chlorides were
a big problem for welding titanium on the A12. They are a nearly universal
corrodant for metals.


Oh, no argument about road salt and alloy wheels.

John Schmitt

On Wed, 09 Nov 2005 20:43:05 -0000, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

What is wround with the oxide layer anyway?

It's a ******* for adsorption. All sorts of stuff which can compromise a
bond like to adsorb onto it.

Indeed, so clean it first, then thin the epoxy and let that adsorb
in...;-)

It appears that you do not know the difference between adsorption and
absorption. Methyl violet adsorbs onto glass out of alcoholic solution.
You can then wash the glassware until you are blue in the face and it will
still desorb in an appropriate solvent, giving a purple solution as
evidence.

John Schmitt

--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/