UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default Separating rusted parts

We've got a steel hammock stand that's been outside all summer. The
parts slot together and before assembling them in the spring, I
liberally coated them with grease - however it would appear that it
wasn't liberal enough.

All the joints nicely pulled apart except for one.

I've tried using WD40, pouring hot water over the sleeve part to make
that part expand and clamping one tube in a workmate ( long way along
the length of the vice ) while whacking the joint in the opposite
direction with a large rubber mallet. I've also tried tightening a rope
around it with a strong cross piece to get some leverage. So far the
pipe is winning.

So what other techniques might work ?

The steel tubes are very thick, maybe 35mm diameter with a wall
thickness of about 3-4mm. Most of the pipe is powder coated and I'd
like to keep it that way by not using fierce tools on it. The parts
that slide together are bare metal and they slide into a suitably wider
tube. I guess that some moisture has got in over the summer and started
some rust that fixes the pipes together.

One part has a welded cross member to form feet ( and a convenient way
to get leverage ), but the other part is a 4 foot length of straight
tubing.

I'd rather take it apart as otherwise it's annoyingly bulky to store
over the winter.

  #2   Report Post  
The3rd Earl Of Derby
 
Posts: n/a
Default

wrote:
We've got a steel hammock stand that's been outside all summer. The
parts slot together and before assembling them in the spring, I
liberally coated them with grease - however it would appear that it
wasn't liberal enough.

All the joints nicely pulled apart except for one.

I've tried using WD40, pouring hot water over the sleeve part to make
that part expand and clamping one tube in a workmate ( long way along
the length of the vice ) while whacking the joint in the opposite
direction with a large rubber mallet. I've also tried tightening a
rope around it with a strong cross piece to get some leverage. So far
the pipe is winning.

So what other techniques might work ?

The steel tubes are very thick, maybe 35mm diameter with a wall
thickness of about 3-4mm. Most of the pipe is powder coated and I'd
like to keep it that way by not using fierce tools on it. The parts
that slide together are bare metal and they slide into a suitably
wider tube. I guess that some moisture has got in over the summer and
started some rust that fixes the pipes together.

One part has a welded cross member to form feet ( and a convenient way
to get leverage ), but the other part is a 4 foot length of straight
tubing.

I'd rather take it apart as otherwise it's annoyingly bulky to store
over the winter.


Pouring hot water on it would not have made one Iota of difference, try and
use a paint stripper on it or gas blowtorch for at least 4/5 minutes around
the circumfrence of the tube.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite


  #3   Report Post  
Newshound
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I would try and soak the joint in penetrating oil (better than WD40). There
may be constraints on the geometry, but if it was just two straight tubes
perhaps you could slide a polythene funnel over the joint, seal the funnel
to the outer tube with sealant (inside) or PVC tape (outside), then stand it
vertical and fill the funnel with penetrating oil so that it gradually soaks
through the rust by gravity and surface tension. This should reduce friction
enough to disassemble it. Or perhaps you could seal one end and fill the
tube with oil to "soak" it from inside. In that case you might dilute
lubricating oil with white spirit or paraffin. Leave it soaking for a week
or so. You could get more aggressive with the rust using weak acids but I
generally find the problem is friction from the dry rust. For the "inside
out" strategy you could increase the driving force by pressurising it using
a couple of rubber bungs, a schraeder valve and a bicycle pump.


  #5   Report Post  
mike ring
 
Posts: n/a
Default

T

Look for some 'Releasal' oil. It's blue in colour, applied liberally and
left to stand for a while it will help. Must admit, I've had my tin for
quite a few years, I guess it's still available.


Google don't think so

mike


  #6   Report Post  
mrcheerful
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"mike ring" wrote in message
. 1.4...
T

Look for some 'Releasal' oil. It's blue in colour, applied liberally and
left to stand for a while it will help. Must admit, I've had my tin for
quite a few years, I guess it's still available.


Google don't think so

mike


releasall (note the double L) is still available stateside. (according to
google)

You could fill it with diesel, that is a very good penetrant, and cheap too.

mrcheerful


  #8   Report Post  
Peter Taylor
 
Posts: n/a
Default


wrote in message
oups.com...
We've got a steel hammock stand that's been outside all summer. The
parts slot together and before assembling them in the spring, I
liberally coated them with grease - however it would appear that it
wasn't liberal enough.

All the joints nicely pulled apart except for one.

I've tried using WD40, pouring hot water over the sleeve part to make
that part expand and clamping one tube in a workmate ( long way along
the length of the vice ) while whacking the joint in the opposite
direction with a large rubber mallet. I've also tried tightening a rope
around it with a strong cross piece to get some leverage. So far the
pipe is winning.

So what other techniques might work ?

The steel tubes are very thick, maybe 35mm diameter with a wall
thickness of about 3-4mm. Most of the pipe is powder coated and I'd
like to keep it that way by not using fierce tools on it. The parts
that slide together are bare metal and they slide into a suitably wider
tube. I guess that some moisture has got in over the summer and started
some rust that fixes the pipes together.

One part has a welded cross member to form feet ( and a convenient way
to get leverage ), but the other part is a 4 foot length of straight
tubing.

I'd rather take it apart as otherwise it's annoyingly bulky to store
over the winter.


I bet it's not rusted too badly - just needs a little help. I'd try the
penetrating oil first like others have suggested, but if that doesn't make
any difference:

Did you try holding it upright and banging one end hard on the ground? It's
pushing the inner tube further in, but it might free up the joint so you can
pull it out.

What about a pair of big stillson wrenches (or even one wrench and a vice)
to twist and free the joint that way? You might need to put a bolt through
each tube to get a better grip.

Last resort, could you drill a hole in the outer tube just beyond the end of
the inner tube and use a lever through the hole to push on the end of the
inner tube?

  #9   Report Post  
Chris Bacon
 
Posts: n/a
Default

wrote:
We've got a steel hammock stand that's been outside all summer. The
parts slot together and before assembling them in the spring, I
liberally coated them with grease - however it would appear that it
wasn't liberal enough.
snip
The steel tubes are very thick, maybe 35mm diameter with a wall
thickness of about 3-4mm. Most of the pipe is powder coated and I'd
like to keep it that way by not using fierce tools on it. The parts
that slide together are bare metal and they slide into a suitably wider
tube. I guess that some moisture has got in over the summer and started
some rust that fixes the pipes together.


If you greased the joint I shouldn't think it will have rusted
sufficiently to bind in this time - it's probably just got
stuck. Is it a tent-pole like joint, i.e. the end of a pole
is reduced in diameter so that it can fit into the one on top?


One part has a welded cross member to form feet ( and a convenient way
to get leverage ), but the other part is a 4 foot length of straight
tubing.

I'd rather take it apart as otherwise it's annoyingly bulky to store
over the winter.


Get two other people, and have them pull each end, nice and
steadily, while you grasp the joint in the middle and pull
it from side to side. Turn the pole as you wiggle it. If
there's any looseness, that will do it.

If no joy, clamp the top bit, and welt the bottom "foot" near
the tube with a hammer, not a rubber mallet. This will of course
damage the finish, but it'll need shock to move the thing,
which you won't get with a RM. The feet should be easier to
touch in than the pole, & less obtrusive. Heat should help, too,
but you need to get it rather hotter than you are (which might
damage the paint).
  #10   Report Post  
Anna Kettle
 
Posts: n/a
Default

wrote in message
oups.com...
We've got a steel hammock stand that's been outside all summer. The
parts slot together and before assembling them in the spring, I
liberally coated them with grease - however it would appear that it
wasn't liberal enough.

All the joints nicely pulled apart except for one.

I've tried using WD40, pouring hot water over the sleeve part to make
that part expand and clamping one tube in a workmate ( long way along
the length of the vice ) while whacking the joint in the opposite
direction with a large rubber mallet. I've also tried tightening a rope
around it with a strong cross piece to get some leverage. So far the
pipe is winning.


I would attack the joint with a hot air gun. The metal will expand and
so the rust will collapse. Not entirely of course but enough to let you
part the pipes

Anna

--
~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England
|""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs
/ ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc
|____| www.kettlenet.co.uk 01359 230642


  #11   Report Post  
John Schmitt
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Thu, 06 Oct 2005 11:26:50 +0100, Chris Bacon
wrote:

If no joy, clamp the top bit, and welt the bottom "foot" near
the tube with a hammer, not a rubber mallet. This will of course
damage the finish, but it'll need shock to move the thing,
which you won't get with a RM.


You could also try borrowing a dead-blow hammer with a polyurethane face.
The head is partally filled with lead shot, which on impact moves down to
the end of the chamber, giving a sustained and powerful blow. The
polyurethane face prevents damaging steel. We had some apparatus with a
very precisely machined SS ram passing through a bronze bush, lubricated
with castor oil. Don't ask. It was surprisingly effective at unsticking
stuck rams.

John Schmitt

--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/
  #12   Report Post  
Ian Stirling
 
Posts: n/a
Default Separating rusted parts

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
wrote:
We've got a steel hammock stand that's been outside all summer. The
parts slot together and before assembling them in the spring, I
liberally coated them with grease - however it would appear that it
wasn't liberal enough.

All the joints nicely pulled apart except for one.

I've tried using WD40, pouring hot water over the sleeve part to make
that part expand and clamping one tube in a workmate ( long way along
the length of the vice ) while whacking the joint in the opposite
direction with a large rubber mallet. I've also tried tightening a
rope around it with a strong cross piece to get some leverage. So far
the pipe is winning.

So what other techniques might work ?

The steel tubes are very thick, maybe 35mm diameter with a wall
thickness of about 3-4mm. Most of the pipe is powder coated and I'd
like to keep it that way by not using fierce tools on it. The parts
that slide together are bare metal and they slide into a suitably
wider tube. I guess that some moisture has got in over the summer and
started some rust that fixes the pipes together.

One part has a welded cross member to form feet ( and a convenient way
to get leverage ), but the other part is a 4 foot length of straight
tubing.

I'd rather take it apart as otherwise it's annoyingly bulky to store
over the winter.


Pouring hot water on it would not have made one Iota of difference, try and
use a paint stripper on it or gas blowtorch for at least 4/5 minutes around
the circumfrence of the tube.


As a guide.
Look closely at the surface you are playing the blowtorch over.
When cold, you will see condensation.
As the surface passes 100C, you lose this.
I find WD40 handy for this.
It boils at 150C or so, so I spray WD40 in, heat the joint till it starts
bubbling out, then as the WD40 has now displaced much of the air, by
evaporating, remove heat and spray with more WD40, allowing the joint to
wick more in, when the air/vapour inside cools and contracts.
DO NOT DO THIS WITH ANY LARGE CONTAINERS, it could kill you as the explosion
bursts it.
Not to mention the whole fire thing.

Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Where do prof. repairers get parts? James Sweet Electronics Repair 9 September 21st 04 04:16 PM
Hi, successes and stuck on rust on iron parts. Gerald Miller Metalworking 19 August 30th 04 06:00 PM
yamaha dv-c6660 help ID parts 0o O0 Electronics Repair 3 August 24th 04 06:11 PM
Parts for Atlas 12" 7122 Lathe Xlat Woodworking 5 May 26th 04 12:30 AM
Looking for a distributor for old SHARP parts Adrian G. Electronics Repair 0 April 11th 04 11:17 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 02:01 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"