I'm planning to replace a radiator in my conservatory, which is tee'd
off the main CH circuit. Now there will some time (a few days) between
chucking the old radiator and installing the new, smaller, one.

The plan is to freeze the pipes after the tee junction, cut the pipes
and put some "cupro fit" compression stop ends over the pipe ends.
Then, when the new rad. appears re-freeze, remove the stop ends and
plumb in the pipework with straight couplers onto the open ends.

Now, about the preparation of the pipes before I cut them: they are
currently painted over. I plan to remove the paint with fine wire-wool
and use a circular pipe cutter to make the cuts. Will this ensure
a good enough fit to the compression joints, and will I be able to
just pull/twist off the stop ends when it's time to install the new
radiator? Or do I need to cut back the pipes further?

Your comments and suggestions would be welcome

Pete

--
.................................................. .........................
.. never trust a man who, when left alone ...... Pete Lynch .
.. in a room with a tea cosy ...... Marlow, England .
.. doesn't try it on (Billy Connolly) .....................................

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Peter Lynch wrote:

I'm planning to replace a radiator in my conservatory, which is tee'd
off the main CH circuit. Now there will some time (a few days) between
chucking the old radiator and installing the new, smaller, one.

The plan is to freeze the pipes after the tee junction, cut the pipes
and put some "cupro fit" compression stop ends over the pipe ends.
Then, when the new rad. appears re-freeze, remove the stop ends and
plumb in the pipework with straight couplers onto the open ends.

Now, about the preparation of the pipes before I cut them: they are
currently painted over. I plan to remove the paint with fine wire-wool
and use a circular pipe cutter to make the cuts. Will this ensure
a good enough fit to the compression joints, and will I be able to
just pull/twist off the stop ends when it's time to install the new
radiator? Or do I need to cut back the pipes further?

Your comments and suggestions would be welcome

Pete

Why no put an isolator valve on each pipe. You won't have to freeze it a
second time, then. If you want belt and braces, you can put end stops on as
well - and then re-pipe from the isolators onwards. Normal service valves
have bores which are quite a lot less than 15mm - but that won't matter
unless the pipes are feeding a really big radiator - say more than 3kW - in
which case full bore ball valves would be better.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

Pete,

Sounds ok to me. Some things to think about.

1.Make sure you get all the paint off the pipe before fitting the stop. A
hot air gun is best, i take its gloss paint.
2.Remember compression fittings distort the pipe so allway cut well back
from the old fitting when you come to replace.. you can just normally
replace, never works for me. Fittings are cheap so why skimp? goes for the
raditor too. radiator valves are cheap.
3.Do you have enough space to get the pipe cutter on. if thep ipe is against
the wall it can be a problem. One of these new tiny cutters or a sharp
harcsaw is best. I like to rub down the area where the olive goes with a
bit of fine sandpaper before fitting.

Kev


"Peter Lynch" wrote in message
...
I'm planning to replace a radiator in my conservatory, which is tee'd
off the main CH circuit. Now there will some time (a few days) between
chucking the old radiator and installing the new, smaller, one.

The plan is to freeze the pipes after the tee junction, cut the pipes
and put some "cupro fit" compression stop ends over the pipe ends.
Then, when the new rad. appears re-freeze, remove the stop ends and
plumb in the pipework with straight couplers onto the open ends.

Now, about the preparation of the pipes before I cut them: they are
currently painted over. I plan to remove the paint with fine wire-wool
and use a circular pipe cutter to make the cuts. Will this ensure
a good enough fit to the compression joints, and will I be able to
just pull/twist off the stop ends when it's time to install the new
radiator? Or do I need to cut back the pipes further?

Your comments and suggestions would be welcome

Pete

--
.................................................. ........................
. never trust a man who, when left alone ...... Pete Lynch .
. in a room with a tea cosy ...... Marlow, England .
. doesn't try it on (Billy Connolly) .....................................

On Sun, 02 Oct 2005 20:39:15 GMT, "kevin foote"
wrote:

Pete,

Sounds ok to me. Some things to think about.

1.Make sure you get all the paint off the pipe before fitting the stop. A
hot air gun is best, i take its gloss paint.
2.Remember compression fittings distort the pipe so allway cut well back
from the old fitting when you come to replace.. you can just normally
replace, never works for me. Fittings are cheap so why skimp? goes for the
raditor too. radiator valves are cheap.
3.Do you have enough space to get the pipe cutter on. if thep ipe is against
the wall it can be a problem. One of these new tiny cutters or a sharp
harcsaw is best. I like to rub down the area where the olive goes with a
bit of fine sandpaper before fitting.

Kev


"Peter Lynch" wrote in message
...
I'm planning to replace a radiator in my conservatory, which is tee'd
off the main CH circuit. Now there will some time (a few days) between
chucking the old radiator and installing the new, smaller, one.

The plan is to freeze the pipes after the tee junction, cut the pipes
and put some "cupro fit" compression stop ends over the pipe ends.
Then, when the new rad. appears re-freeze, remove the stop ends and
plumb in the pipework with straight couplers onto the open ends.

Now, about the preparation of the pipes before I cut them: they are
currently painted over. I plan to remove the paint with fine wire-wool
and use a circular pipe cutter to make the cuts. Will this ensure
a good enough fit to the compression joints, and will I be able to
just pull/twist off the stop ends when it's time to install the new
radiator? Or do I need to cut back the pipes further?


Cuprofit fittings are push-fit, they are not compression. Which one do
you mean? Cuprofit is probably better than compression if you want to
reuse the same bit of pipe and of course is slightly quicker to fit.

You cannot simply pull off cuprofit stop ends - you will need a
release tool - cost 49p from screwfix (part number 17365) ...you slip
it on the pipe and pull fairly hard.

Pipes must be clean and paint free before fitting.

Mr F.

"Peter Lynch" wrote in message
...
I'm planning to replace a radiator in my conservatory, which is tee'd
off the main CH circuit. Now there will some time (a few days) between
chucking the old radiator and installing the new, smaller, one.

The plan is to freeze the pipes after the tee junction, cut the pipes
and put some "cupro fit" compression stop ends over the pipe ends.
Then, when the new rad. appears re-freeze, remove the stop ends and
plumb in the pipework with straight couplers onto the open ends.

Now, about the preparation of the pipes before I cut them: they are
currently painted over. I plan to remove the paint with fine wire-wool
and use a circular pipe cutter to make the cuts. Will this ensure
a good enough fit to the compression joints, and will I be able to
just pull/twist off the stop ends when it's time to install the new
radiator? Or do I need to cut back the pipes further?

Your comments and suggestions would be welcome

Pete

Use Speed easily demountable, or better still compression stop ends.

On Mon, 03 Oct 2005 07:25:38 +0100, Mr Fizzion wrote:

On Sun, 02 Oct 2005 20:39:15 GMT, "kevin foote"
wrote:

Pete,

Sounds ok to me. Some things to think about.

1.Make sure you get all the paint off the pipe before fitting the stop. A
hot air gun is best, i take its gloss paint.
2.Remember compression fittings distort the pipe so allway cut well back
from the old fitting when you come to replace.. you can just normally
replace, never works for me. Fittings are cheap so why skimp? goes for the
raditor too. radiator valves are cheap.
3.Do you have enough space to get the pipe cutter on. if thep ipe is against
the wall it can be a problem. One of these new tiny cutters or a sharp
harcsaw is best. I like to rub down the area where the olive goes with a
bit of fine sandpaper before fitting.

Kev


"Peter Lynch" wrote in message
...
I'm planning to replace a radiator in my conservatory, which is tee'd
off the main CH circuit. Now there will some time (a few days) between
chucking the old radiator and installing the new, smaller, one.

The plan is to freeze the pipes after the tee junction, cut the pipes
and put some "cupro fit" compression stop ends over the pipe ends.
Then, when the new rad. appears re-freeze, remove the stop ends and
plumb in the pipework with straight couplers onto the open ends.

Now, about the preparation of the pipes before I cut them: they are
currently painted over. I plan to remove the paint with fine wire-wool
and use a circular pipe cutter to make the cuts. Will this ensure
a good enough fit to the compression joints, and will I be able to
just pull/twist off the stop ends when it's time to install the new
radiator? Or do I need to cut back the pipes further?


Cuprofit fittings are push-fit, they are not compression. Which one do
you mean? Cuprofit is probably better than compression if you want to
reuse the same bit of pipe and of course is slightly quicker to fit.

You cannot simply pull off cuprofit stop ends - you will need a
release tool - cost 49p from screwfix (part number 17365) ...you slip
it on the pipe and pull fairly hard.

Pipes must be clean and paint free before fitting.

....and a little silicone grease will ensure that they are demountable
other wise the pipe and fitting are lost.


--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

"Ed Sirett" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 03 Oct 2005 07:25:38 +0100, Mr Fizzion wrote:

On Sun, 02 Oct 2005 20:39:15 GMT, "kevin foote"
wrote:

Pete,

Sounds ok to me. Some things to think about.

1.Make sure you get all the paint off the pipe before fitting the stop.
A
hot air gun is best, i take its gloss paint.
2.Remember compression fittings distort the pipe so allway cut well back
from the old fitting when you come to replace.. you can just normally
replace, never works for me. Fittings are cheap so why skimp? goes for
the
raditor too. radiator valves are cheap.
3.Do you have enough space to get the pipe cutter on. if thep ipe is
against
the wall it can be a problem. One of these new tiny cutters or a sharp
harcsaw is best. I like to rub down the area where the olive goes with
a
bit of fine sandpaper before fitting.

Kev


"Peter Lynch" wrote in message
...
I'm planning to replace a radiator in my conservatory, which is tee'd
off the main CH circuit. Now there will some time (a few days) between
chucking the old radiator and installing the new, smaller, one.

The plan is to freeze the pipes after the tee junction, cut the pipes
and put some "cupro fit" compression stop ends over the pipe ends.
Then, when the new rad. appears re-freeze, remove the stop ends and
plumb in the pipework with straight couplers onto the open ends.

Now, about the preparation of the pipes before I cut them: they are
currently painted over. I plan to remove the paint with fine wire-wool
and use a circular pipe cutter to make the cuts. Will this ensure
a good enough fit to the compression joints, and will I be able to
just pull/twist off the stop ends when it's time to install the new
radiator? Or do I need to cut back the pipes further?


Cuprofit fittings are push-fit, they are not compression. Which one do
you mean? Cuprofit is probably better than compression if you want to
reuse the same bit of pipe and of course is slightly quicker to fit.

You cannot simply pull off cuprofit stop ends - you will need a
release tool - cost 49p from screwfix (part number 17365) ...you slip
it on the pipe and pull fairly hard.

Pipes must be clean and paint free before fitting.

...and a little silicone grease will ensure that they are demountable
other wise the pipe and fitting are lost.

Best use compression as they are easily demountable.