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Peter Hemmings
 
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Default Soil Pipe - Plastic on to castiron

Hi,

I am just about to start preliminary work prior to installing an en
suite in my bedroom next to the bathroom.
ATM the toilet has a connection through the wall onto an old cast iron
soil pipe going into the garage floor (garage extension built onto side
of house by previous owners).
The pipe from the toilet goes through the cavity wall and (viewed inside
the garage) bends right onto another cast iron "T" where a plastic vent
pipe has been inserted to vent through a tile on the side of the garage
roof.
It looks like this:

Plastic | |
|| ||
_______| |
toilet ( )_______ | ** Cast Iron
| |
|| ||
| |
| | Cast Iron into garage floor

What I intend to do is to replace the cast "T" and pipe to toilet with
plastic and to fit a cross pipe connector (sorry don t know exact name)
ready to drain shower/basin about one metre to the right of "**".

Hope you got the "drift"!

Now the questions.
1. How easy is it to get the old "T" off without breaking the collar of
the pipe going down the wall.

2. What diameter pipe must I use from the basin/shower?

3. I assume I can fit the new plastic junction and cut out the relevant
holes later or cut it and fit a blank?

4. If I have to cut the old pipe (because I damaged it), is there a
neat way of connecting plastic as the only way I have seen is an orrible
rubber "gator" thingy!?

Thanks

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chris French
 
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Default

In message , Peter Hemmings
writes

Plastic | |
|| ||
_______| |
toilet ( )_______ | ** Cast Iron
| |
|| ||
| |
| | Cast Iron into garage floor

What I intend to do is to replace the cast "T" and pipe to toilet with
plastic and to fit a cross pipe connector (sorry don t know exact name)
ready to drain shower/basin about one metre to the right of "**".


Now the questions.
1. How easy is it to get the old "T" off without breaking the collar of
the pipe going down the wall.


Probably not to difficult. I had to remove a lead soil pipe from a CI
socket when I redid a bathroom. Now that was probbaly bit easier as the
lead is very soft of course. But no matter. the joint was sealed with
something that appeared to be putty, might not have been, but if you
imagine 70 year old putty you get the idea It's wasn't that hard to chip
this out with an old screwdriver and a hammer.

I'd probably start by using an angle grinder to remove most of the T,
then work down the sides with aforesaid screwdriver/hammer combo, till I
could remove the end of the T

2. What diameter pipe must I use from the basin/shower?

Basins normally 32mm, Shower 40mm

3. I assume I can fit the new plastic junction and cut out the relevant
holes later


I think so, but I've never done this yet.

4. If I have to cut the old pipe (because I damaged it), is there a
neat way of connecting plastic as the only way I have seen is an
orrible rubber "gator" thingy!?


That is the only thing I have seen, but it might be that plastic joining
section might just be the right size if you are lucky - my plastic pipe
was a nice fit in my CI socket
--
Chris French

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Peter Hemmings
 
Posts: n/a
Default

chris French wrote:
In message , Peter Hemmings
writes



Plastic | |
|| ||
_______| |
toilet ( )_______ | ** Cast Iron
| |
|| ||
| |
| | Cast Iron into garage floor

What I intend to do is to replace the cast "T" and pipe to toilet with
plastic and to fit a cross pipe connector (sorry don t know exact
name) ready to drain shower/basin about one metre to the right of "**".


Now the questions.
1. How easy is it to get the old "T" off without breaking the collar
of the pipe going down the wall.



Probably not to difficult. I had to remove a lead soil pipe from a CI
socket when I redid a bathroom. Now that was probbaly bit easier as the
lead is very soft of course. But no matter. the joint was sealed with
something that appeared to be putty, might not have been, but if you
imagine 70 year old putty you get the idea It's wasn't that hard to chip
this out with an old screwdriver and a hammer.

I'd probably start by using an angle grinder to remove most of the T,
then work down the sides with aforesaid screwdriver/hammer combo, till I
could remove the end of the T


OK thanks


2. What diameter pipe must I use from the basin/shower?

Basins normally 32mm, Shower 40mm

Do you know if these must be kept separate to stop the old "gurgling"
effect in the basin when using the shower for instance?

3. I assume I can fit the new plastic junction and cut out the
relevant holes later



I think so, but I've never done this yet.

OK

4. If I have to cut the old pipe (because I damaged it), is there a
neat way of connecting plastic as the only way I have seen is an
orrible rubber "gator" thingy!?



That is the only thing I have seen, but it might be that plastic joining
section might just be the right size if you are lucky - my plastic pipe
was a nice fit in my CI socket


What did you seal it with?

Thanks for the assurances!
  #4   Report Post  
chris French
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In message , Peter
Hemmings writes
chris French wrote:
In message , Peter Hemmings
writes


What I intend to do is to replace the cast "T" and pipe to toilet
with plastic and to fit a cross pipe connector (sorry don t know
exact name) ready to drain shower/basin about one metre to the right




2. What diameter pipe must I use from the basin/shower?

Basins normally 32mm, Shower 40mm

Do you know if these must be kept separate to stop the old "gurgling"
effect in the basin when using the shower for instance?


Well, this one of those 'depends' situations . Ideally I think it is
best to keep them separate, so as to remove the risk of the problem.
Though when I did the bathroom on my old house ISTR that the basin was
connected to either the bath or shower waste pipe and I don't remember
any gurgling, so I guess it depends on various things.

i'd avoid combining them if I could though.

4. If I have to cut the old pipe (because I damaged it), is there a
neat way of connecting plastic as the only way I have seen is an
orrible rubber "gator" thingy!?

That is the only thing I have seen, but it might be that plastic
joining section might just be the right size if you are lucky - my
plastic pipe was a nice fit in my CI socket


What did you seal it with?


I used Cerafix 'Roof and Gutter sealant' - mostly because I had some and
it seemed suitable for the job - the plastic was a nice fit into the CI
so didn't need to fill a big gap.

Like this I guess:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...81553&id=42717


The sealant is black, looks like it might be bitumen based, but I've no
idea, doesn't seem to dry hard though - in fact didn't seem to dry
really at all.. I'd have thought a general purpose silicone sealant
would be fine though.
--
Chris French

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Peter Hemmings
 
Posts: n/a
Default

chris French wrote:
snip




2. What diameter pipe must I use from the basin/shower?

Basins normally 32mm, Shower 40mm

Do you know if these must be kept separate to stop the old "gurgling"
effect in the basin when using the shower for instance?


Well, this one of those 'depends' situations . Ideally I think it is
best to keep them separate, so as to remove the risk of the problem.
Though when I did the bathroom on my old house ISTR that the basin was
connected to either the bath or shower waste pipe and I don't remember
any gurgling, so I guess it depends on various things.

i'd avoid combining them if I could though.

OK TA

4. If I have to cut the old pipe (because I damaged it), is there a
neat way of connecting plastic as the only way I have seen is an
orrible rubber "gator" thingy!?

That is the only thing I have seen, but it might be that plastic
joining section might just be the right size if you are lucky - my
plastic pipe was a nice fit in my CI socket



What did you seal it with?



I used Cerafix 'Roof and Gutter sealant' - mostly because I had some and
it seemed suitable for the job - the plastic was a nice fit into the CI
so didn't need to fill a big gap.

Like this I guess:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...81553&id=42717


The sealant is black, looks like it might be bitumen based, but I've no
idea, doesn't seem to dry hard though - in fact didn't seem to dry
really at all.. I'd have thought a general purpose silicone sealant
would be fine though.


Thanks for the advice, I will having a go at it later next month.
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