Hi I have a hoover tumble dryer which stopped heating. It still blew cold
air. It was the overload/overheat protection device that failed(do not know
the exact name for it but it was open circuit) I have been told that the
reason it failed was because I use a vent hose out of the window and because
the tumble dryer has to push the air through a 90 degree bend then up 6 feet
then through a window and then pointing down through about 150 degrees this
is why it failed. Also it was very windy when it packed up. I have been
advised to cut a hole through the wall and vent straight out so that there
are no bends in the vent hose. Before I start drilling through the wall is
this advice correct or is the repairman talking a load of rubbish?
Thanks Jackie

On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 10:46:47 GMT, "Jackie"
scrawled:

Hi I have a hoover tumble dryer which stopped heating. It still blew cold
air. It was the overload/overheat protection device that failed(do not know
the exact name for it but it was open circuit) I have been told that the
reason it failed was because I use a vent hose out of the window and because
the tumble dryer has to push the air through a 90 degree bend then up 6 feet
then through a window and then pointing down through about 150 degrees this
is why it failed. Also it was very windy when it packed up. I have been
advised to cut a hole through the wall and vent straight out so that there
are no bends in the vent hose. Before I start drilling through the wall is
this advice correct or is the repairman talking a load of rubbish?
Thanks Jackie

There may be a slight element of truth in what he says but it I
wouldn't go so far as to say it was _the_ reason. Take it with a pinch
of salt, but I would get it vented through the wall anyway for
convenience more than anything.
--
Stuart @ SJW Electrical

Please Reply to group

On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 10:46:47 GMT, "Jackie"
wrote:

Hi I have a hoover tumble dryer which stopped heating. It still blew cold
air. It was the overload/overheat protection device that failed(do not know
the exact name for it but it was open circuit) I have been told that the
reason it failed was because I use a vent hose out of the window and because
the tumble dryer has to push the air through a 90 degree bend then up 6 feet
then through a window and then pointing down through about 150 degrees this
is why it failed. Also it was very windy when it packed up. I have been
advised to cut a hole through the wall and vent straight out so that there
are no bends in the vent hose. Before I start drilling through the wall is
this advice correct or is the repairman talking a load of rubbish?
Thanks Jackie

Rubbish.

Provided there is passage for the air to leave the machine in
sufficient quantity, it's fine.

Holes in the wall can lead to far more convoluted pipe paths than
stuff out a window.

"Lurch" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 10:46:47 GMT, "Jackie"
scrawled:

Hi I have a hoover tumble dryer which stopped heating. It still blew cold
air. It was the overload/overheat protection device that failed(do not
know
the exact name for it but it was open circuit) I have been told that the
reason it failed was because I use a vent hose out of the window and
because
the tumble dryer has to push the air through a 90 degree bend then up 6
feet
then through a window and then pointing down through about 150 degrees
this
is why it failed. Also it was very windy when it packed up. I have been
advised to cut a hole through the wall and vent straight out so that there
are no bends in the vent hose. Before I start drilling through the wall is
this advice correct or is the repairman talking a load of rubbish?
Thanks Jackie

There may be a slight element of truth in what he says but it I
wouldn't go so far as to say it was _the_ reason. Take it with a pinch
of salt, but I would get it vented through the wall anyway for
convenience more than anything.
--
Speaking as a one time washing machine/drier repair man, I would say that
your man's advice is very sensible. I lost count of the number of times I
experienced problems with this type of set-up. What happens is that when the
rising moist/warm air meets the cold air from outside, it condenses, turns
back into water and runs back down the tube. The water then either runs back
into the drier, or the weight of the water makes the outlet tube form a 'U'
bend, and ( after a period of time) the collected water acts as a trap, just
like your kitchen waste.
Now you have no air movement which = no drying = no cooling = overheat.
I'm not saying for 100% certain this is your problem, but it's certainly
the first thing I would have recommended.

On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 13:20:52 +0100, "Partac"
wrote:


Speaking as a one time washing machine/drier repair man, I would say that
your man's advice is very sensible. I lost count of the number of times I
experienced problems with this type of set-up. What happens is that when the
rising moist/warm air meets the cold air from outside, it condenses, turns
back into water and runs back down the tube. The water then either runs back
into the drier, or the weight of the water makes the outlet tube form a 'U'
bend, and ( after a period of time) the collected water acts as a trap, just
like your kitchen waste.
Now you have no air movement which = no drying = no cooling = overheat.
I'm not saying for 100% certain this is your problem, but it's certainly
the first thing I would have recommended.

I'd also say that it's a distinct possibility.

In addition to the moisture that accumulates, the longer the tube the
more resistance there is to the air flowing up the exhaust tube, the
air moves slower and the result is the machine overheats.

Most ducted air conditioners and ch boilers have strict restrictions
on flue length for this very reason. I'd assume dryers are the same.

However, heaters do have a finite life so it may have blown due to
age.

(if buying a new dryer I'd suggest a condening one btw.)

sponix

"Ericp" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 10:46:47 GMT, "Jackie"
wrote:

Hi I have a hoover tumble dryer which stopped heating. It still blew cold
air. It was the overload/overheat protection device that failed(do not
know
the exact name for it but it was open circuit) I have been told that the
reason it failed was because I use a vent hose out of the window and
because
the tumble dryer has to push the air through a 90 degree bend then up 6
feet
then through a window and then pointing down through about 150 degrees
this
is why it failed. Also it was very windy when it packed up. I have been
advised to cut a hole through the wall and vent straight out so that there
are no bends in the vent hose. Before I start drilling through the wall is
this advice correct or is the repairman talking a load of rubbish?
Thanks Jackie

Rubbish.

Provided there is passage for the air to leave the machine in
sufficient quantity, it's fine.

Holes in the wall can lead to far more convoluted pipe paths than
stuff out a window.

I have a Hoover drier which has performed perfectly satisfactorily with a
flexy hose stuffed through a window for 25 years or so. Whilst the
objections to this system may have theoretical (and slight) objections, and
provided the discharge path is not blocked by fluff or other foreign bodies
then it is a perfectly acceptable means of venting the drier. Indeed the
user is encouraged to use this system by many manufacturers in the inclusion
of the necessary accessories to permit it.

Regards

Pilgarlick

On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 10:46:47 UTC, "Jackie"
wrote:

Hi I have a hoover tumble dryer which stopped heating. It still blew cold
air. It was the overload/overheat protection device that failed(do not know
the exact name for it but it was open circuit) I have been told that the
reason it failed was because I use a vent hose out of the window and because
the tumble dryer has to push the air through a 90 degree bend then up 6 feet
then through a window and then pointing down through about 150 degrees this
is why it failed.

6 feet is a bit excessive and may cause a problem, as noted elsewhere.

We simply had a hole cut in the window nearby, and fitted the relevant
plastic boss (a piece each side) into which the hose fits. Been like
that for 11 years...tumble dryer has only failed due to broken belt so
far!

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://laminateflooring.oncloud8.com

On 20 Sep 2005, Pilgarlick wrote


"Ericp" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 10:46:47 GMT, "Jackie"
wrote:

Hi I have a hoover tumble dryer which stopped heating. It still
blew cold air. It was the overload/overheat protection device
that failed(do not know
the exact name for it but it was open circuit) I have been told
that the reason it failed was because I use a vent hose out of
the window and because
the tumble dryer has to push the air through a 90 degree bend
then up 6 feet
then through a window and then pointing down through about 150
degrees this
is why it failed. Also it was very windy when it packed up. I
have been advised to cut a hole through the wall and vent
straight out so that there are no bends in the vent hose. Before
I start drilling through the wall is this advice correct or is
the repairman talking a load of rubbish? Thanks Jackie

Rubbish.

Provided there is passage for the air to leave the machine in
sufficient quantity, it's fine.

Holes in the wall can lead to far more convoluted pipe paths than
stuff out a window.

I have a Hoover drier which has performed perfectly satisfactorily
with a flexy hose stuffed through a window for 25 years or so.
Whilst the objections to this system may have theoretical (and
slight) objections, and provided the discharge path is not blocked
by fluff or other foreign bodies then it is a perfectly acceptable
means of venting the drier. Indeed the user is encouraged to use
this system by many manufacturers in the inclusion of the
necessary accessories to permit it.

But as described, the potential problem wasn't about whether the hose
vented through the window or through the wall: it's that the current
venting hose has a 90 degree turn, followed by a 6-foot rise to the
window, then and points back down on the other side.

I can well imagine that that has meant that there *isn't* "a passage
for the air to leave the machine in sufficient quantity", and that the
repair guy's therefore giving good rather than rubbish advice.

--
Cheers,
Harvey

Looks like the design of the product is defective, ie it's not customer
proof and the overheat stat should have reset unless faulty. It may be
advisable to reroute the vent pipe to shorten the path length for this
product, or throw it away and buy a product which will work under your
conditions. Has the lint filter blocked? I've known the overheat switch
to drop out under these conditions, but then reset. Why didn't the
heater thermostat reset when the machine had cooled down?

Regards
Capitol

Hang on a minute, the replies above are all good advice but I'm not so
sure they answer the real issues. The OP says "the overload/overheat
protection device failed".
Every dryer I've seen is arranged such that there is an operating
thermostat and a safety "overheat" thermostat. In normal operation the
element is turned on and off by the operating thermostat with the
mark/space ratio varying during the drying cycle and with other factors
such as the airflow. Blocking the outlet reduces the cooling of the
element (almost completely!) and normally that just means that the
element is on for a very short time and off for a long time, all
controlled by the operating thermostat.

The safety (overheat) thermostat is only there at all so that when (if)
the operating thermostat fails the dryer doesn't catch fire. It is
normally resetable but deliberately designed so that resetting it is
non-trivial, like you have to reach around the back of the machine.
This tends to make people deal with the underlying problem rather than
ignore it.

The OP was told that the safety thermostat had failed and I take that
to mean that it had gone open circuit and was not resetable. In my
experience both the operating and the safety thermostats are prone to
simply falling apart. They are after all in a pretty harsh environment
and generally they seem to be built around a flimsy cardboard like
material (I know it's not really cardboard but that's what it looks
like).

So Jackie, was the dryer working OK up to the point of failure? If it
was then your outlet arrangement is probably just fine.
Did the repairman replace the cutout or just reset it? If he replaced
it because it had actually failed then the outlet arrangement may not
be perfect but it can't cause the cutout to *fail* so again your outlet
arrangement is not to blame. If he simply reset it then something else
caused the dryer to overheat in the first place, maybe a faulty or
becoming faulty operating thermostat.
I guess the only other consideration is the age of the machine. My
experience is that up to say 3 years of daily use I'd be surprised to
see a thermostat fall apart. By about 10 years I'd expect to have
replaced both thermostats (and the element) at least once.

I hope that helps you to analyse the problem and I'd certainly think
hard before going to the effort of making a hole in the wall unless you
want one anyway.

Capitol wrote:

Looks like the design of the product is defective, ie it's not
customer proof and the overheat stat should have reset unless faulty. It
may be advisable to reroute the vent pipe to shorten the path length for
this product, or throw it away and buy a product which will work under
your conditions. Has the lint filter blocked? I've known the overheat
switch to drop out under these conditions, but then reset. Why didn't
the heater thermostat reset when the machine had cooled down?

Regards
Capitol

I just had this on mine. It has two safeties, an "otter" (I think so
called, because "it stops it getting 'otter") and a thermal link. The
otter is actually a bimetallic thermostat.

First time the otter blew, and took the link with it. I replaced them
both, and it ran happily for another six months, then the thermal link
went again. The parts people wanted 15 quid for another link - which
consists of two connectors, a bit of heat-proof wire, and a thermal
fuse. A trip to maplins, 75p, and a bit of crimping and it's running again.

I assume that the otter doesn't turn the heat off soon enough to suit
the thermal fuse. I could fiddle with the temperature range of the
thermal fuse, but I feel a strange reluctance to do so.

Andy

I have been told that the reason it failed was because I use a vent hose
out of the window

Personally, I've given up on vented dryers. They always seem to overheat as
it is very difficult to get the hose outside without kinks. Also, I don't
want a whopping great hole in the side of my house. Go condensing and you
don't have to deal with all this.

Christian.

In article ,
says...
I have been told that the reason it failed was because I use a vent hose
out of the window

Personally, I've given up on vented dryers. They always seem to overheat as
it is very difficult to get the hose outside without kinks. Also, I don't
want a whopping great hole in the side of my house.

Best brick up all the windows and doors then.

Also, I don't want a whopping great hole in the side of my house.

Best brick up all the windows and doors then.

I've closed off those holes with glass and wood instead.

Christian.

In article ,
says...
Also, I don't want a whopping great hole in the side of my house.

Best brick up all the windows and doors then.

I've closed off those holes with glass and wood instead.

I was going to counter with "so fit an automatic louvre", but I don't
seem to be able to find any without taking a Vent-Axia fan apart :-)

Rob Morley wrote:

In article ,
says...
Also, I don't want a whopping great hole in the side of my house.

Best brick up all the windows and doors then.

I've closed off those holes with glass and wood instead.

I was going to counter with "so fit an automatic louvre", but I don't
seem to be able to find any without taking a Vent-Axia fan apart :-)

Use a cooker hood louvre.


--

Also, I don't want a whopping great hole in the side of my house.

I was going to counter with "so fit an automatic louvre", but I don't
seem to be able to find any without taking a Vent-Axia fan apart :-)

Use a cooker hood louvre.

Or just buy a condensing dryer, so you don't have to have a hole in the
wall, which is ugly, inflexible and probably not compatible with next year's
model.

Christian.

The BSS folk (http://www.bssuk.co.uk/) stock
in-line backdraft contraptions that basically
are one-way valves to allow air to flow out
but to prevent reverse flow.
The description of these items include the
word "damper" if anyone is attempting a search.

For the tiny cost of these, and where they are
easily concealable, I'd recommend fitting them
to any exterior-vent.

Mungo

"Christian McArdle" wrote:

Also, I don't want a whopping great hole in the side of my house.

I was going to counter with "so fit an automatic louvre", but I don't
seem to be able to find any without taking a Vent-Axia fan apart :-)

Use a cooker hood louvre.

Or just buy a condensing dryer, so you don't have to have a hole in the
wall, which is ugly, inflexible and probably not compatible with next year's
model.

.......or a washing line which works when the power stations run out of
gas to burn.


--

In article ,
says...
Rob Morley wrote:

In article ,
says...
Also, I don't want a whopping great hole in the side of my house.

Best brick up all the windows and doors then.

I've closed off those holes with glass and wood instead.

I was going to counter with "so fit an automatic louvre", but I don't
seem to be able to find any without taking a Vent-Axia fan apart :-)

Use a cooker hood louvre.

Don't they rely on air pressure from the fan?

In article ,
says...
"Christian McArdle" wrote:

Also, I don't want a whopping great hole in the side of my house.

I was going to counter with "so fit an automatic louvre", but I don't
seem to be able to find any without taking a Vent-Axia fan apart :-)

Use a cooker hood louvre.

Or just buy a condensing dryer, so you don't have to have a hole in the
wall, which is ugly, inflexible and probably not compatible with next year's
model.

......or a washing line which works when the power stations run out of
gas to burn.

.... but not when it's raining ...

Rob Morley wrote:

In article ,
says...

......or a washing line which works when the power stations run out of
gas to burn.

... but not when it's raining ...

That's the day you do the washing.


--

Christian McArdle wrote:

Or just buy a condensing dryer, so you don't have to have a hole in the
wall, which is ugly, inflexible and probably not compatible with next year's
model.

Christian.



.... So long as you don't mind the lower efficiency & corresponding
higher fuel bills.

Next year's model? I've had the same size exhaust hose for 15 years.

Andy