A recent thread on a garage roof reminded me that I really need to tidy
up my (warping softwood ply) garage doors before winter...

The sizes are 1.1x1.7m and both open outward rather than a single up and
over.

I was thinking of something fairly quick and cheap, ledge and brace, or
exterior OSB back panel and vertical T&G front boards (I don't care what
the inside looks like).

WRT the OSB idea, this will give about 40mm thickness, which is about
right, but are the panels likely to distort much?

Has anyone got any other ideas that would match in with a shiplap clad
structure and are reasonably quick to make / cost effective?

TIA,

Alex.

HI Alex

On Tue, 16 Aug 2005 08:20:09 +0100, AlexW
wrote:

A recent thread on a garage roof reminded me that I really need to tidy
up my (warping softwood ply) garage doors before winter...

The sizes are 1.1x1.7m and both open outward rather than a single up and
over.

I was thinking of something fairly quick and cheap, ledge and brace, or
exterior OSB back panel and vertical T&G front boards (I don't care what
the inside looks like).

WRT the OSB idea, this will give about 40mm thickness, which is about
right, but are the panels likely to distort much?

Has anyone got any other ideas that would match in with a shiplap clad
structure and are reasonably quick to make / cost effective?


My neighbour & I rebuilt his garage / workshop earlier in the year -
and used 3/4" Blockboard for the pair of doors (each was 4' wide x
about 7ft high). The blockboard is ply on the outside and
glued-together treewood battens inside - makes it very rigid.

In his case he had a couple of angle-iron frames which we fitted
around each door and bolted to the blockboard - but I think this
wasn't really necessary...

To tie in with the shiplap we lightly routed some fake 'joint lines'
across the doors - looks OK and shows no tendency to warp. Take care
to protect the edges of the board to keep moisture out.

HTH
Adrian
Suffolk UK

======return email munged=================
take out the papers and the trash to reply

Adrian Brentnall wrote:
HI Alex

On Tue, 16 Aug 2005 08:20:09 +0100, AlexW
wrote:


Snipmybit

My neighbour & I rebuilt his garage / workshop earlier in the year -
and used 3/4" Blockboard for the pair of doors (each was 4' wide x
about 7ft high). The blockboard is ply on the outside and
glued-together treewood battens inside - makes it very rigid.

In his case he had a couple of angle-iron frames which we fitted
around each door and bolted to the blockboard - but I think this
wasn't really necessary...

To tie in with the shiplap we lightly routed some fake 'joint lines'
across the doors - looks OK and shows no tendency to warp. Take care
to protect the edges of the board to keep moisture out.

HTH
Adrian
Suffolk UK

======return email munged=================
take out the papers and the trash to reply

Thanks for the info, I'll bear the blockboard approach in mind.

Alex.

I have my original 1939 garage doors still in place ( albeit with
refurbishment ). They are
made of ledged and braced tongue and groove. I can get you measurements if
you want,
thicknesses etc, as obviously they are a design that has stood the test of
time!

Andy.

andrewpreece wrote:
I have my original 1939 garage doors still in place ( albeit with
refurbishment ). They are
made of ledged and braced tongue and groove. I can get you measurements if
you want,
thicknesses etc, as obviously they are a design that has stood the test of
time!

Andy.



Thanks Andy, approx. thickness of the ledges/braces and T&G would be
interesting, but /please/ don't put yourself out. I have done 6 or so
internal ledge and brace doors so I have a gut feel for how thick they
would need to be at 1.0m wide rather than 0.7-0.8m wide.