Hi
Excuse the vague explanation on this - but i have limited knowledge on
the ins and outs of central heating/hot water system with boilers...

Just had a BG guy come around to take a look at out old boiler - the
adviser said it is out of production and is very old and suggested
getting a new one - which I am happy to do.

He also mentioned that we will not be able to put a new boiler there to
just replace it - because the flu to the roof is too small and it is
illegal now to put new ones in the current place (in airing cupboard in
2nd bed room) without altering the existing hole and roof. again, i
have no facts to back this up but taking his word for this one.

He also said that if we get a new combi boiler, we will also need to
change the valves on the radiators for the combi - can someone tell me
why?

So I am happy to:
a) get a new boiler - pref. combi boiler
b) move it into the kitchen and have the work done to drill hole for
the flue etc
c) have the pipe system re-done so that existing pipes going into HW
cylinder etc can be changed for CH and HW to work with the new boiler
d) get rid of the old boiler and HW cylinder

and he's obviously quoted me on this work - and it is as you expect
very expensive.

But my question is - how much should i be looking at roughly for all of
the work above?

I understand that it is a failry big job - and also hard to give me an
estimate - but i am looking at a ball-park figure just to compare.

obviously getting another quote but wanted to know what to expect with
regards to price including labour and parts PLUS estimate on the number
of days for the job.

FYI, BG estimated me 2 to 3 days of work.

thanks

In article .com,
kiich wrote:
So I am happy to:
a) get a new boiler - pref. combi boiler
b) move it into the kitchen and have the work done to drill hole for
the flue etc
c) have the pipe system re-done so that existing pipes going into HW
cylinder etc can be changed for CH and HW to work with the new boiler
d) get rid of the old boiler and HW cylinder

I'd just make certain the combi you get can near match the performance of
the storage system. A well designed storage system can always beat any
combi at filling a bath. And the average combi will be *very* much slower,
especially in winter.

--
*Acupuncture is a jab well done.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"kiich" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi
Excuse the vague explanation on this - but i have limited knowledge on
the ins and outs of central heating/hot water system with boilers...

Just had a BG guy come around to take a look at out old boiler - the
adviser said it is out of production and is very old and suggested
getting a new one - which I am happy to do.

He also mentioned that we will not be able to put a new boiler there to
just replace it - because the flu to the roof is too small and it is
illegal now to put new ones in the current place (in airing cupboard in
2nd bed room) without altering the existing hole and roof. again, i
have no facts to back this up but taking his word for this one.


There are specs about the siting of flues: these are available on the web.
The
new generation of condensing boilers can put out a bit of a fog in the right
weather - does your flue exit towards a nearby neighbour? Otherwise, I
believe
all flues nowadays are balanced ( that is , air is sucked in, and exhaust
blown out,
through the same coaxial pipe. Is yours a 4" diameter balanced flue?

He also said that if we get a new combi boiler, we will also need to
change the valves on the radiators for the combi - can someone tell me
why?

What valves do you have at present? It is in the regs that all new CH
installations
should have a thermostat in the loop. If your radiators have all got TRV's
( thermo-
static radiator valves ) on them, one ( typically in the hallway ) will have
to have the TRV
removed, so the thermostat ( also in the same room ) can control the CH
sytem without
fighting a TRV.

So I am happy to:
a) get a new boiler - pref. combi boiler
b) move it into the kitchen and have the work done to drill hole for
the flue etc
c) have the pipe system re-done so that existing pipes going into HW
cylinder etc can be changed for CH and HW to work with the new boiler
d) get rid of the old boiler and HW cylinder

and he's obviously quoted me on this work - and it is as you expect
very expensive.

But my question is - how much should i be looking at roughly for all of
the work above?

I understand that it is a failry big job - and also hard to give me an
estimate - but i am looking at a ball-park figure just to compare.

obviously getting another quote but wanted to know what to expect with
regards to price including labour and parts PLUS estimate on the number
of days for the job.

FYI, BG estimated me 2 to 3 days of work.

British Gas are infamous for telling people that their boilers should be
replaced
due to their age and lack of spares when in fact often the spares are
readily
available on the web. They are also infamous for charging something
ridiculous
like £3000 for an installation when an independent gas technician can do it
for
far less typically. They are also infamous for charging big bucks for combis
that can
be more cheaply bought on the web. Caution: I have had no dealings with BG,
I am just
repeating some of the stories I have seen on this newsgroup.

Andy.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
kiich wrote:

Hi
Excuse the vague explanation on this - but i have limited knowledge on
the ins and outs of central heating/hot water system with boilers...

Just had a BG guy come around to take a look at out old boiler - the
adviser said it is out of production and is very old and suggested
getting a new one - which I am happy to do.

He also mentioned that we will not be able to put a new boiler there
to just replace it - because the flu to the roof is too small and it
is illegal now to put new ones in the current place (in airing
cupboard in 2nd bed room) without altering the existing hole and
roof. again, i have no facts to back this up but taking his word for
this one.

He also said that if we get a new combi boiler, we will also need to
change the valves on the radiators for the combi - can someone tell me
why?

So I am happy to:
a) get a new boiler - pref. combi boiler
b) move it into the kitchen and have the work done to drill hole for
the flue etc
c) have the pipe system re-done so that existing pipes going into HW
cylinder etc can be changed for CH and HW to work with the new boiler
d) get rid of the old boiler and HW cylinder

and he's obviously quoted me on this work - and it is as you expect
very expensive.

But my question is - how much should i be looking at roughly for all
of the work above?

I understand that it is a failry big job - and also hard to give me an
estimate - but i am looking at a ball-park figure just to compare.

obviously getting another quote but wanted to know what to expect with
regards to price including labour and parts PLUS estimate on the
number of days for the job.

FYI, BG estimated me 2 to 3 days of work.

thanks

Are you *sure* you want a combi? There's no way I would get rid of my stored
hot water system.

If you are replacing the boiler, it doesn't *have* to be a combi - it can
continue to heat the radiators and the hot water in the same way as the
existing one.

I assume that the recommendation to change the radiator valves is because
the new system will be unvented (pressurised) whereas the existing system is
pretty certainly vented. Old valves may well leak under the extra pressure.

Divide BG's price by about 2 to get a fair price.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

"kiich" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi
Excuse the vague explanation on this - but i have limited knowledge on
the ins and outs of central heating/hot water system with boilers...

Just had a BG guy come around to take a look at out old boiler - the
adviser said it is out of production and is very old and suggested
getting a new one - which I am happy to do.

He also mentioned that we will not be able to put a new boiler there to
just replace it - because the flu to the roof is too small and it is
illegal now to put new ones in the current place (in airing cupboard in
2nd bed room) without altering the existing hole and roof. again, i
have no facts to back this up but taking his word for this one.


The flue and roof tile may be too small, so he may be right. Have the
boiler in the same place and have a new tile fitted in the roof. Don't have
the boiler in the kitchen, as it is such a silly place top put a boiler.

He also said that if we get a new combi boiler, we will also need to
change the valves on the radiators for the combi - can someone tell me
why?

Part L of the building regs.

So I am happy to:
a) get a new boiler - pref. combi boiler

Good idea.

b) move it into the kitchen and have the work done to drill hole for
the flue etc

No, keep it where it is and extent the new flue into the roof.

c) have the pipe system re-done so that existing pipes going into HW
cylinder etc can be changed for CH and HW to work with the new boiler
d) get rid of the old boiler and HW cylinder

Good idea. But! Make sure the boiler has a high flowrate. Combi's are
rated in flowrate. What boiler did he mention: make & model? Try an Alpha
CD50 high flowrate model.

and he's obviously quoted me on this work - and it is as you expect
very expensive.

But my question is - how much should i be looking at roughly for all of
the work above?

I understand that it is a failry big job - and also hard to give me an
estimate - but i am looking at a ball-park figure just to compare.

Get him to quote on a high flowrate combi flued through the roof.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article .com,
kiich wrote:
So I am happy to:
a) get a new boiler - pref. combi boiler
b) move it into the kitchen and have the work done to drill hole for
the flue etc
c) have the pipe system re-done so that existing pipes going into HW
cylinder etc can be changed for CH and HW to work with the new boiler
d) get rid of the old boiler and HW cylinder

I'd just make certain the combi you get can near match the performance of
the storage system. A well designed storage system can always beat any
combi at filling a bath.

Not so. Some combi's and multi-points can **** all over a tank and cylinder
at bath filling.

"kiich" wrote:

So I am happy to:
a) get a new boiler - pref. combi boiler

I assume you do know how crap they are at filling baths/sinks/etc?

Maybe you are French and don't care ;-)


--

"Doctor Drivel" wrote:

Not so. Some combi's and multi-points can **** all over a tank

Only when you've been plumbing with plastic and a hacksaw



--

"Matt" wrote in message
...
"kiich" wrote:

So I am happy to:
a) get a new boiler - pref. combi boiler

I assume you do know how crap they are at filling baths/sinks/etc?

Maybe you are French and don't care ;-)

This man is a pure idiot.

"Set Square" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
kiich wrote:

Hi
Excuse the vague explanation on this - but i have limited knowledge on
the ins and outs of central heating/hot water system with boilers...

Just had a BG guy come around to take a look at out old boiler - the
adviser said it is out of production and is very old and suggested
getting a new one - which I am happy to do.

He also mentioned that we will not be able to put a new boiler there
to just replace it - because the flu to the roof is too small and it
is illegal now to put new ones in the current place (in airing
cupboard in 2nd bed room) without altering the existing hole and
roof. again, i have no facts to back this up but taking his word for
this one.

He also said that if we get a new combi boiler, we will also need to
change the valves on the radiators for the combi - can someone tell me
why?

So I am happy to:
a) get a new boiler - pref. combi boiler
b) move it into the kitchen and have the work done to drill hole for
the flue etc
c) have the pipe system re-done so that existing pipes going into HW
cylinder etc can be changed for CH and HW to work with the new boiler
d) get rid of the old boiler and HW cylinder

and he's obviously quoted me on this work - and it is as you expect
very expensive.

But my question is - how much should i be looking at roughly for all
of the work above?

I understand that it is a failry big job - and also hard to give me an
estimate - but i am looking at a ball-park figure just to compare.

obviously getting another quote but wanted to know what to expect with
regards to price including labour and parts PLUS estimate on the
number of days for the job.

FYI, BG estimated me 2 to 3 days of work.

thanks

Are you *sure* you want a combi? There's no way I would get rid of my
stored
hot water system.

Combi's are superior.

If you are replacing the boiler, it doesn't *have* to be a combi - it can
continue to heat the radiators and the hot water in the same way as the
existing one.

Why continue with a second rate system when he can have a high flowrate
combi.

In article ws.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
I'd just make certain the combi you get can near match the performance
of the storage system. A well designed storage system can always beat
any combi at filling a bath.

Not so. Some combi's and multi-points can **** all over a tank and
cylinder at bath filling.

Drivel by name and Drivel by nature.

Quote practical values for practical homes.

As if.

[snip Drivel's advertising rubbish]

--
*No husband has ever been shot while doing the dishes *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article s.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
Are you *sure* you want a combi? There's no way I would get rid of my
stored hot water system.

Combi's are superior.

[snip Drivel's lies]

Be nice to get him to learn about the use of apostrophes as well. Some
chance.

--
*No radio - Already stolen.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ws.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
I'd just make certain the combi you get can near match the performance
of the storage system. A well designed storage system can always beat
any combi at filling a bath.

Not so. Some combi's and multi-points can **** all over a tank and
cylinder at bath filling.

snip senile caber tossing garbage

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article s.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

Are you *sure* you want a combi? There's no way I would get rid of my
stored hot water system.

Combi's are superior.

snip senile caber tossing garbage

In article ws.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
Don't have
the boiler in the kitchen, as it is such a silly place top put a boiler.

It's a very sensible place to put a combi IMHO - next to no dead leg for
the sink hot tap which is probably the one used most.

[A useful bonus of switching to a combi was realising that the hot water
is now drinking quality so for rinsing rice etc just turn up the HW temp
and rinse under hot tap]

--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk
Free SEDBUK boiler database browser http://www.sda.co.uk/qsedbuk.htm
[Latest version QSEDBUK 1.10 released 4 April 2005]

"Tony Bryer" wrote in message
...
In article ws.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
Don't have
the boiler in the kitchen, as it is such a silly place top put a boiler.

It's a very sensible place to put a combi IMHO - next to no dead leg for
the sink hot tap which is probably the one used most.

In a normal domestic house that extra few seconds is not worth talking
about. You could put in a secondary circulation loop to have instant hot
water at every tap (and save on water too) if that really bothers you.

[A useful bonus of switching to a combi was realising that the hot water
is now drinking quality so for rinsing rice etc just turn up the HW temp
and rinse under hot tap]

And use to fill the kettle and keep the electricity bills right down.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Doctor Drivel wrote:


Why continue with a second rate system when he can have a high
flowrate combi.

Because:
a) A 'high flow rate' combi still won't fu]ill a bath as fast as a stored
system
b) It relies on on the mains being able to deliver a high flow rate - which
may or may not be the case.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

In article ,
"Set Square" writes:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Doctor Drivel wrote:


Why continue with a second rate system when he can have a high
flowrate combi.

Because:
a) A 'high flow rate' combi still won't fu]ill a bath as fast as a stored
system
b) It relies on on the mains being able to deliver a high flow rate - which
may or may not be the case.

Leaflets stuffed in with my last water bill contained a warning
about installing combi's associated with this last point.
Check that the pressure and flowrate available are _well_ over
the combi's minimum, to allow for future pressure reductions.
I assume the water companies are getting a stream of complaints
about not enough flowrate to operate combi's properly, as they
are steadily reducing the water pressure to get the leak figures
down and avoid being fined.

--
Andrew Gabriel

"Set Square" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Doctor Drivel wrote:


Why continue with a second rate system when he can have a high
flowrate combi.

Because:
a) A 'high flow rate' combi still won't fu]ill a bath as fast as a stored
system

Nonsense. Some can, and they gives showers thant no tank.cylidner system
can. Next tripe.....

b) It relies on on the mains being able to deliver a high flow rate -
which
may or may not be the case.

In most cases it can.

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
.. .
In article ,
"Set Square" writes:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Doctor Drivel wrote:


Why continue with a second rate system when he can have a high
flowrate combi.

Because:
a) A 'high flow rate' combi still won't fu]ill a bath as fast as a
stored
system
b) It relies on on the mains being able to deliver a high flow rate -
which
may or may not be the case.

Leaflets stuffed in with my last water bill contained a warning
about installing combi's associated with this last point.
Check that the pressure and flowrate available are _well_ over
the combi's minimum, to allow for future pressure reductions.

In the last week or two London Water announced it is raising the pressure
because of water leaks being repaired.

I assume the water companies are getting a stream of complaints
about not enough flowrate to operate combi's properly, as they
are steadily reducing the water pressure to get the leak figures
down and avoid being fined.

--
Andrew Gabriel

"Doctor Drivel" wrote:

In the last week or two London Water announced it is raising the pressure
because of water leaks being repaired.

Bet you are regretting using that hacksaw.


--

"Matt" wrote in message
...
"Doctor Drivel" wrote:

In the last week or two London Water announced it is raising the pressure
because of water leaks being repaired.

Bet

snip inane witless babble.

andrewpreece wrote:

What valves do you have at present? It is in the regs that all new CH
installations should have a thermostat in the loop. If your
radiators have all got TRV's ( thermo- static radiator valves ) on
them, one ( typically in the hallway ) will have to have the TRV
removed, so the thermostat ( also in the same room ) can control the
CH sytem without fighting a TRV.

When you say a thermostat, aree you sayiny it is compulsory to have to
have roomstat in the one room which is not covered by a TRV? I'm about
to have a system installed and was intending to go for a towel rail in
the bathroom with manual valves, and no roomstats (all other rads with
TRVs) - does this design not cut the Part L mustard? Had a look at the
approved doc but can't find this.

Thanks
David

In article ,
Tony Bryer wrote:
In article ws.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
Don't have the boiler in the kitchen, as it is such a silly place top
put a boiler.

It's a very sensible place to put a combi IMHO - next to no dead leg for
the sink hot tap which is probably the one used most.

But Drivel with his habit of spending other's money unwisely will have a
pumped circulation system from the twin 'combi's' fitted on the next
planet.

'Cause he hasn't a clue.

--
*Change is inevitable ... except from vending machines *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article s.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
It's a very sensible place to put a combi IMHO - next to no dead leg for
the sink hot tap which is probably the one used most.

In a normal domestic house that extra few seconds is not worth talking
about. You could put in a secondary circulation loop to have instant hot
water at every tap (and save on water too) if that really bothers you.

Dead on cue. What a ******.

[A useful bonus of switching to a combi was realising that the hot
water is now drinking quality so for rinsing rice etc just turn up the
HW temp and rinse under hot tap]

And use to fill the kettle and keep the electricity bills right down.

Give some figures about the likely extra cost of installing a combi other
than in the kitchen, the cost of the circulating pump to give near instant
hot water to that kitchen tap, and the likely degradation of the water
quality in that long loop which will effect the taste of tea, etc, made
from it, against the cost of heating *fresh* water in an electric kettle.
And then compare to the cost of using an ordinary kettle on a hob.

And just f**k off back to the planet Zog.

--
*Born free...Taxed to death.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article s.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
Because: a) A 'high flow rate' combi still won't fu]ill a bath as fast
as a stored system

Nonsense. Some can, and they gives showers thant no tank.cylidner
system can.

What a fool. A 'tank.cylinder' system can have any performance you want -
assuming the tank provides the required pressure and flow into a cylinder
sized accordingly, up to the point where they run out. Which is down to
design - not principle.

A combi is restricted by the available gas and water supply.

Only a fool doesn't understand this.


Next tripe.....

b) It relies on on the mains being able to deliver a high flow rate -
which may or may not be the case.

In most cases it can.

Only on planet Zog.

--
*Bills travel through the mail at twice the speed of cheques *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Lobster" wrote in message
...
andrewpreece wrote:

What valves do you have at present? It is in the regs that all new CH
installations should have a thermostat in the loop. If your
radiators have all got TRV's ( thermo- static radiator valves ) on
them, one ( typically in the hallway ) will have to have the TRV
removed, so the thermostat ( also in the same room ) can control the
CH sytem without fighting a TRV.

When you say a thermostat, aree you sayiny it is compulsory to have to
have roomstat in the one room which is not covered by a TRV? I'm about
to have a system installed and was intending to go for a towel rail in
the bathroom with manual valves, and no roomstats (all other rads with
TRVs) - does this design not cut the Part L mustard? Had a look at the
approved doc but can't find this.

Thanks
David

I'm not sure of the source, but when I installed my own boiler I was
surprised
to find out that for new installations ( post 2001 I think ) all CH systems
had to
be controlled by a thermostat in a room. The reason is that the thermostat
actually turns the boiler off instead of letting it mess around occasionally
heating up the loop water and circulating it through the bypass valve, when
all the TRV's are off because the house is up to temperature.

I can't imagine this would happen very much except in special circumstances,
e.g. you had the CH on and the weather became warm enough that the house
was so warm that the TRV's shut off. Then the boiler would still try and
keep the CH
loop hot, wasting energy.

You'll have to search around for a reference, or go back through the Google
Archive
of uk.d-i-y, which is searchable by keyword, if you didn't already know.

A word of warning, the room you choose to have the thermostat to go in must
not
have an alternative form of heating in it e.g. open fire, else the
thermostat will shut
off the CH. Also, the room should really have a radiator in it that is
slightly less
powerful than those in the other TRV'd rooms, as you want all the trv'd
rooms to get
up to temperature before the thermostatted room is, otherwise, by shutting
the boiler
down it will prevent the trv's from achieving their set temperatures.

I cannot see that your design meets the regs, as the boiler cannot be
completely
turned off when the house is up to temperature. Don't take my word for it
though, DYOR.

Andy.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article s.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

Because: a) A 'high flow rate' combi still won't fu]ill a bath as fast
as a stored system

Nonsense. Some can, and they gives
showers that no tank/cylinder
system can.

What a fool. A 'tank.cylinder' system
can have any performance you want -

If you want 1.5" pipes all over the house, then yes.

snip senile drivel

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article s.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

It's a very sensible place to put a combi
IMHO - next to no dead leg for
the sink hot tap which is probably the one used most.

In a normal domestic house that extra
few seconds is not worth talking
about. You could put in a secondary
circulation loop to have instant hot
water at every tap (and save on water too)
if that really bothers you.

Dead on cue.

Yes, a fabulous way of having hot water instantly at the taps.

snip total and utter senile drivel

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Tony Bryer wrote:
In article ws.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
Don't have the boiler in the kitchen, as it is such a silly place top
put a boiler.

It's a very sensible place to put a combi IMHO - next to no dead leg for
the sink hot tap which is probably the one used most.

But Drivel

...know more than all others here.

snip senile frothing babble

kiich wrote:

Just had a BG guy come around to take a look at out old boiler - the
adviser said it is out of production and is very old and suggested

"Salesman" is the word you are searching for ;-)

getting a new one - which I am happy to do.

1989 does not sound that old really... is it actually broken now? If not
then don't fix it. When you must replace it, then do so with a reliable
high efficiency boiler, but until you need to there is not much to be
gained.

He also mentioned that we will not be able to put a new boiler there to
just replace it - because the flu to the roof is too small and it is

Might be true. But can be changed.

illegal now to put new ones in the current place (in airing cupboard in
2nd bed room) without altering the existing hole and roof. again, i
have no facts to back this up but taking his word for this one.

Not aware of it being illegal however.

He also said that if we get a new combi boiler, we will also need to
change the valves on the radiators for the combi - can someone tell me
why?

If the rads do not have TRVs then they will need replacing to come into
line with Part L of the building regs. You may also need to replace the
lockshield valves if when you convert to a sealed system since the
higher pressure can cause older ones to seep a little.

So I am happy to:
a) get a new boiler - pref. combi boiler

Make sure this is a viable option first. Check you mains cold water flow
rate (stop watch and a bucket!). If you are getting less than 20 l/min
it will be marginal for a decent combi. Also allow some overhead in case
the water pressure is reduced in your area. Note also the time of day
you do the flow rate test. If you routinely take a shower at the same
time as half the neighbourhood you may find the flow rate available when
you need it is not good enough.

Assuming the above is ok, then look for a *very* powerful combi (minimum
of 35kW - but more is better) to get anything like decent performance on
bath filling. Alternatively retain the stored water components of your
system and use the heating circuit of a combi to drive those much like
the current boiler does, but use the hot water circuit of the combi to
drive a shower (where the mains pressure is handy), or the kitchen /
basin taps etc.

If you do this then don't forget to budget for new shower valves if your
current ones are unable to cope with the high pressure. If you go for
the whole house fed from the combi, then having a thermostatic mixer
also becomes more important, because the temperature of the hot water is
more prone to vary in response to demand.

b) move it into the kitchen and have the work done to drill hole for
the flue etc

Not having it in a bedroom may be a good point when selling (or for
someone sleeping in the room). There is no safety hazard with it in the
bedroom, but they can be noisy enough to irritate some people.

c) have the pipe system re-done so that existing pipes going into HW
cylinder etc can be changed for CH and HW to work with the new boiler
d) get rid of the old boiler and HW cylinder

This may or may not be a good idea - depends on how you use your hot water.

and he's obviously quoted me on this work - and it is as you expect
very expensive.

But my question is - how much should i be looking at roughly for all of
the work above?

FYI, BG estimated me 2 to 3 days of work.

That sounds about right (assuming two men) or three to four for one man.
(took me about four days to do all of what you describe).

2000 - 2500 (including the boiler) sounds fair. Perhaps a bit more if
there are lots of rad vales to replace.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:
If the rads do not have TRVs then they will need replacing to come into
line with Part L of the building regs. You may also need to replace the
lockshield valves if when you convert to a sealed system since the
higher pressure can cause older ones to seep a little.

Or even the rads themselves, if they are as old and crabby as two of
ours were when we had a sealed system fitted a few years ago: both of
them 'blew' without warning a couple of days later; ie a hole appeared -
in the middle of a panel - and just about flooded out the house.

Actually it was particularly galling as after the first rad went, and we
replaced it, we decided that it would be sensible to replace the second
one urgently as well: however, before we had a chance, that one blew too
(on the very next day), with identical results (fortunately in the room
below the original, which was already totally trashed...)

David

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Lobster wrote:


Or even the rads themselves, if they are as old and crabby as two of
ours were when we had a sealed system fitted a few years ago: both of
them 'blew' without warning a couple of days later; ie a hole
appeared - in the middle of a panel - and just about flooded out the
house.

I thought that one of the features of sealed systems was that - in the event
of a leak - they should only spill a couple of litres of water before
running out of pressure. Is this not so?
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

"Doctor Drivel" wrote:

total and utter senile drivel

Drivel by name, dribble by nature. Time for you to go home but you
must do better tomorrow Drivel, sales here are lagging behind probably
down to too much leaflet reading among plumbing counter assistants,
yet sales of copper tanks in Japan are soaring, so much so we now have
an office and warehouse over there to handle all the demand.
--

In article , Set Square wrote:
I thought that one of the features of sealed systems was that - in
the event of a leak - they should only spill a couple of litres of
water before running out of pressure. Is this not so?

A finite amount of water: initially the volume which the expansion
vessel has taken up when pressurising the system and then the rest of
the water in the system above the hole - either a steady drip, or at a
greater rate if an AAV in the boiler or elsewhere is letting air in.
But at some point it will stop whilst with a gravity system and header
tank supply not turned off the water will flow indefinitely.

--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk
Free SEDBUK boiler database browser http://www.sda.co.uk/qsedbuk.htm
[Latest version QSEDBUK 1.10 released 4 April 2005]

"Matt" wrote in message
...
"Doctor Drivel" wrote:

total and utter senile drivel

Drivel by name,

This one should be back at the clinic by now.

snip babble

Set Square wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Lobster wrote:


Or even the rads themselves, if they are as old and crabby as two of
ours were when we had a sealed system fitted a few years ago: both of
them 'blew' without warning a couple of days later; ie a hole
appeared - in the middle of a panel - and just about flooded out the
house.


I thought that one of the features of sealed systems was that - in the event
of a leak - they should only spill a couple of litres of water before
running out of pressure. Is this not so?

Did I write that?! OK, I was exaggerating a bit, but it was certainly a
goodly amount of liquid, enough to soak the carpet and sofa in the room
below the bedroom with the trashed rad.

David

In article ws.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
What a fool. A 'tank.cylinder' system
can have any performance you want -

If you want 1.5" pipes all over the house, then yes.

Long time since you did any plumbing? Apart from flooding a house
recently? Wouldn't it be a good idea to get some re-training if you wish
to give advice here? Or simply leave it those with some recent real
world experience?

--
*Learn from your parents' mistakes - use birth control

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Tony Bryer wrote:
I thought that one of the features of sealed systems was that - in
the event of a leak - they should only spill a couple of litres of
water before running out of pressure. Is this not so?

A finite amount of water: initially the volume which the expansion
vessel has taken up when pressurising the system and then the rest of
the water in the system above the hole - either a steady drip, or at a
greater rate if an AAV in the boiler or elsewhere is letting air in.
But at some point it will stop whilst with a gravity system and header
tank supply not turned off the water will flow indefinitely.

True it will, but a well designed 'open' system will in fact 'consume'
very very little water, so doesn't need a full flow feed. If you really
are worried about the possibility of a flood, fit a flow restrictor. You
could probably set this at something like a maximum of a litre a month, or
even less. The standard header tank for an open system will last probably
about two years before running out on a well designed system.
Basically, pressurised systems are a con for most houses. Fine if space is
at a premium, or in a flat, etc.

--
*If God dropped acid, would he see people?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Tony Bryer wrote:
I thought that one of the features of sealed systems was that - in
the event of a leak - they should only spill a couple of litres of
water before running out of pressure. Is this not so?

A finite amount of water: initially the volume which the expansion
vessel has taken up when pressurising the system and then the rest of
the water in the system above the hole - either a steady drip, or at a
greater rate if an AAV in the boiler or elsewhere is letting air in.
But at some point it will stop whilst with a gravity system and header
tank supply not turned off the water will flow indefinitely.

True it will, but a well designed 'open' system will in fact 'consume'
very very little water,

snip more senile drivel

The point was in case of a leak. If away fro 4 weeks and the sealed system
springs one, only the water in that part of the system will leak, with an
open vent system is will be a continuous water fall.

Boy some people are dumb.