I tried to driver in a 3x3 'Metpost' fencing ground spike using a 3x3
'Metpost driving tool' - this is the tool which was recommended on the
label of the post.

I followed the instructions on the label on the side of the metpost,
but all I acieved was to permanently jam the driving tool into the
metpost - no matter what I can do the tool can not now be extracted
from the metpost! The teeth of the metpost have embedded themselves
firmly into the black plastic tool.

I can't see how the driving tool could possibly be expected to work
since it just gets jammed inside the post - what am I doing wrong?

kmillar wrote:

I can't see how the driving tool could possibly be expected to work
since it just gets jammed inside the post - what am I doing wrong?


Buying Metposts?


--
Grunff

I tried to driver in a 3x3 'Metpost' fencing ground spike using a 3x3
'Metpost driving tool' - this is the tool which was recommended on the
label of the post.

Drive in metposts aren't usually the best solution. I generally use
concrete-in metposts set in a bag of postfix.

Christian.

On Tue, 19 Jul 2005 05:44:07 -0700, kmillar wrote:

I tried to driver in a 3x3 'Metpost' fencing ground spike using a 3x3
'Metpost driving tool' - this is the tool which was recommended on the
label of the post.

I followed the instructions on the label on the side of the metpost,
but all I acieved was to permanently jam the driving tool into the
metpost - no matter what I can do the tool can not now be extracted
from the metpost! The teeth of the metpost have embedded themselves
firmly into the black plastic tool.

I can't see how the driving tool could possibly be expected to work
since it just gets jammed inside the post - what am I doing wrong?

I suspect that you have used the 3x3" driving tool that's for use on 4x4"
metposts. The tool and the post are now scrap, you'll need a new tool
(2x2") and a new 3x3" metpost.

I have found that metposts are very difficult to drive in and keep plumb
in both directions and prevent from twisting round.

IMHO the best possible fencing is a concrete spare set with post fix and
then bolt a wooden post to it.
Next best is the same idea using a metpost set in post fix concrete.
Next best is to concrete in the wooden post about 600mm into the ground,
if you can arrange for the concrete to be heaped up a little so that water
does not collect around the base of the post so much the better.


--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

The 3x3 metpost has a sticker on the side which says use a 3x3 driving
tool.
It also has a picture of the tool being a good solid fit in the post!

As for driving in staright without twisting - I did not find this to be
a problem at all, I drove the posts in using a spare block of wood
across the top of the post and find the metposts are far superior to
using concrete - you try fixing a concrete beded fence when a gale has
blown it over! All you're left with is big blocks of concrete to break
up.