I'm in the process of installing an Ideal Isar 30HE boiler, and the manual
says if I'm connecting the condensate pipework to a soil stack (which I will
be doing) that I need to fit a 75mm trap.

The questions are.

Do I fit the trap inside the house or outside, or doesn't it matter.

Where can I buy a 75mm trap to fit standard 21.5mm plastic overflow pipe
(I've googled, froogled and poogled till blood comes out of my ears, but no
luck), or do I buy a 32mm trap and then try and find 21.5mm to 32mm
reducers.

Or don't I really need one (hoping this is the answer)

Cheers

Jon

I'm in the process of installing an Ideal Isar 30HE boiler, and the manual
says if I'm connecting the condensate pipework to a soil stack (which I
will
be doing) that I need to fit a 75mm trap.

Can you just use a washing machine style trap and stick the hose in the end
with an air break? Only do this if the boiler manufacturer is happy to do
so, as with some designs, they might worry about it exhausting through there
if the boiler internal trap is empty or not specified.

Christian.

In article , jon
writes
I'm in the process of installing an Ideal Isar 30HE boiler, and the manual
says if I'm connecting the condensate pipework to a soil stack (which I will
be doing) that I need to fit a 75mm trap.

The questions are.

Do I fit the trap inside the house or outside, or doesn't it matter.

Where can I buy a 75mm trap to fit standard 21.5mm plastic overflow pipe
(I've googled, froogled and poogled till blood comes out of my ears, but no
luck), or do I buy a 32mm trap and then try and find 21.5mm to 32mm
reducers.

Or don't I really need one (hoping this is the answer)

Damned if I know, for my Keston they just suggest you make up a U-trap
from overflow pipe and give it (IIRC) about 200mm depth. I did it with plain
pipe while but another here (Andy Gabriel I think) used clear piping to
check for flow and blockages, something which I omitted.

Could they be suggesting a bottle trap with a 75mm body? I can see the
sense in that as you could easily clear it of crud and wash it out. If you
decide to go for one of these then you can get adaptors for just about
anything so you will be able to mate it up, just don't use an anti syphon
one ;-).

Perhaps a call to their tech line is called for to get the whys and wherefors.
--
fred

jon wrote:
Where can I buy a 75mm trap to fit standard 21.5mm plastic overflow pipe
(I've googled, froogled and poogled till blood comes out of my ears, but no
luck), or do I buy a 32mm trap and then try and find 21.5mm to 32mm
reducers.

Or don't I really need one (hoping this is the answer)

Cheers

Jon

I don't think you'll need to mechanically attach the 21mm overflow
pipework to the 32mm pipework.

Sounds like you just need an arrangement similar to a washing machine
trap. The overflow pipe can just drop vertically into the open end of
the 75mm trap.

Vaci

In article ,
fred writes:
Damned if I know, for my Keston they just suggest you make up a U-trap
from overflow pipe and give it (IIRC) about 200mm depth. I did it with plain
pipe while but another here (Andy Gabriel I think) used clear piping to
check for flow and blockages, something which I omitted.

Keston C25 doesn't require an external trap -- it has one internally.
I used a 6" section of clear tubing in the pipework so I could see if
the boiler was actually generating any condensate. It works, but when
there's a steady stream, you can't really see what sort of rate it's
running. If I did it again, I would used a sealed tundish.

Mine eventually couples up to a 32mm waste pipe from the bathroom
washbasin. I used a trap on the washbasin with integral air
admittance valve to be sure any suction in the waste pipe couldn't
empty out the trap in the Keston, but this wasn't something the
Keston instructions suggested or required. They did require the
condensate pipework to be at least 32mm outdoors, which mine is by
virtue of joining the wash basin waste before going out through
the wall.

--
Andrew Gabriel

Keston C25 doesn't require an external trap -- it has one internally.

I get the impression that the boiler in question does have an internal trap
and doesn't usually require an external one. I think it just needs an extra
deep external one in this case as it is connected to a soil pipe, where
pressure differences can suck small traps out easily.

Christian.

In article , Andrew
Gabriel writes
In article ,
fred writes:
Damned if I know, for my Keston they just suggest you make up a U-trap
from overflow pipe and give it (IIRC) about 200mm depth. I did it with plain
pipe while but another here (Andy Gabriel I think) used clear piping to
check for flow and blockages, something which I omitted.

Keston C25 doesn't require an external trap -- it has one internally.
I used a 6" section of clear tubing in the pipework so I could see if
the boiler was actually generating any condensate. It works, but when
there's a steady stream, you can't really see what sort of rate it's
running. If I did it again, I would used a sealed tundish.

You had me worried there for a min as I knew I'd seen a spec for an
external trap in the manual but it's for drainage of a long flue which I have in
my installation so I have 2 condensate drains, one from the boiler and one
from the flue. In my enthusiasm I have made traps for both.
--
fred

In article ,
Christian McArdle writes
Keston C25 doesn't require an external trap -- it has one internally.

I get the impression that the boiler in question does have an internal trap
and doesn't usually require an external one. I think it just needs an extra
deep external one in this case as it is connected to a soil pipe, where
pressure differences can suck small traps out easily.

Good point, that would make sense of the 3" requirement. It would also
mean that my comment about _not_ using an anti syphon trap would be
wrong too, my, I am having a good day.
--
fred