I've just fitted a Torbeck value to my cold water tank inlet.

I noticed that water drips out of where the arm holding the ball meets the value
while it is filling, and this continues after the main flow through the tube has
stopped, but does eventually stop as the arm is forced higher. Is this normal or
have I got a dodgy value?

Also is it sensible to cut the filler tube so that the water fills from the top,
to avoid stagnation?

TIA

--
Andy

In message , Andy Pandy
wrote
I've just fitted a Torbeck value to my cold water tank inlet.

I noticed that water drips out of where the arm holding the ball meets
the value
while it is filling, and this continues after the main flow through the
tube has
stopped, but does eventually stop as the arm is forced higher. Is this
normal or
have I got a dodgy value?

It's normal.


Also is it sensible to cut the filler tube so that the water fills from
the top,
to avoid stagnation?

Put a hose into the bottom of a water but and watch all the crud from
the bottom rise to the top I doubt if the water will stagnate if you
leave the tube unmodified.

--
Alan

On Sun, 3 Jul 2005 20:47:56 +0100, "Andy Pandy"
wrote:

I've just fitted a Torbeck value to my cold water tank inlet.

I noticed that water drips out of where the arm holding the ball meets the value
while it is filling, and this continues after the main flow through the tube has
stopped, but does eventually stop as the arm is forced higher. Is this normal or
have I got a dodgy value?

That's quite normal.

You may have a sheet of instructions with the valve showing an
exploded view.

The Torbeck is an equilibrium valve. The diaphragm is designed so
that when the pressure is equal on both sides, it is against the seat
closing it off. There is a metering arrangement through the diaphragm
with a hole and depending on the particular valve, a metal needle in
the valve body or a little plastic peg. The purpose of this is to
allow a tiny flow of water through from the back of the valve to the
front. Then in the front part of the body, you have another small
hole which is covered by a pad on the end of the actuating arm.

When the float drops, the front hole is uncovered and water can escape
from the chamber in front of the diaphragm. Water pressure pushes the
diaphragm away and the valve opens fully.

As the float rises, at a certain point the pad on the actuating arm
closes on the small front hole and starts to block it. At a certain
point, the pressure in front of the diaphragm builds up to nearly as
much as that behind and the diaphragm pops back to close off the main
flow. However, the metering valve through the diaphragm still
allows a tiny amount of water through. To begin with, the small hole
at the front won't be completely blocked and there will be drips.
Eventually the float rises a little more and the hole is completely
blocked and dripping stops.

The effect is more noticable on a loft cold water cistern, simply
because the level rises relatively slowly compared with, say, a toilet
cistern where it will rise rapidly at the same flow rate.




Also is it sensible to cut the filler tube so that the water fills from the top,
to avoid stagnation?


If it's the type that looks like a kind of flat plastic bag that is
forced open by the water, then it should be fine. The water flow
tends to make it dance around a bit and stir up the water.

In any case, you are not going to get stagnation.


--

..andy

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"Alan" wrote in message
...
In message , Andy Pandy
wrote
I've just fitted a Torbeck value to my cold water tank inlet.

I noticed that water drips out of where the arm holding the ball meets
the value
while it is filling, and this continues after the main flow through the
tube has
stopped, but does eventually stop as the arm is forced higher. Is this
normal or
have I got a dodgy value?

It's normal.


Also is it sensible to cut the filler tube so that the water fills from
the top,
to avoid stagnation?

Put a hose into the bottom of a water but and watch all the crud from
the bottom rise to the top I doubt if the water will stagnate if you
leave the tube unmodified.

The colder water coming in from the mains will naturally drop to the bottom.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
That's quite normal.

You may have a sheet of instructions with the valve showing an
exploded view...

No, I just got basic fitting instructions, so thanks for the explanation.

Also is it sensible to cut the filler tube so that the water fills from the
top,
to avoid stagnation?


If it's the type that looks like a kind of flat plastic bag that is
forced open by the water, then it should be fine. The water flow
tends to make it dance around a bit and stir up the water.

Yup, that's the type.

As a matter of interest, what is the purpose of this tube? Is it just to make
filling quieter? I assumed it was to stop ripples in the water to prevent the
float bouncing up and down, but like you say, the tube agitates the water and
causes ripples anyway.

--
Andy

"Andy Pandy" wrote in message
...

As a matter of interest, what is the purpose of this tube? Is it just to
make
filling quieter? I assumed it was to stop ripples in the water to prevent
the
float bouncing up and down, but like you say, the tube agitates the water
and
causes ripples anyway.


Noise is the reason it's there. The reason it is a flat tube is as a one way
anti-syphon device, to stop cistern water being sucked back up the mains in
the event of a sudden pressure drop (fire hose in the road outside maybe?

On Sun, 3 Jul 2005 20:47:56 +0100, "Andy Pandy"
wrote:

I've just fitted a Torbeck value to my cold water tank inlet.

I noticed that water drips out of where the arm holding the ball meets the value
while it is filling, and this continues after the main flow through the tube has
stopped, but does eventually stop as the arm is forced higher. Is this normal or
have I got a dodgy value?

Also is it sensible to cut the filler tube so that the water fills from the top,
to avoid stagnation?

I have had nothing but trouble with bloody Torbeck valves. In
principle they seem a good idea but in practice they are very badly
made.

Personally I avoid them when possible and fit nice, brass float
valves.

Does anyone know if anywhere does a decent (Preferably bras) Torbeck
valve?

sponix

"--s-p-o-n-i-x--" wrote in message
...
I have had nothing but trouble with bloody Torbeck valves. In
principle they seem a good idea but in practice they are very badly
made.

What problems have you had with them?

--
Andy