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Mark Downey
 
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Default installing a kitchen - a couple of questions

Hi all
just about to install a kitchen from B&Q and I have couple of questions to
start off with

1) At what height should the worktop be?

and

2) How high above the worktops for plug sockets?

many thnaks in advance

Mark


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On Sun, 26 Jun 2005 13:26:28 GMT, "Mark Downey"
wrote:

Hi all
just about to install a kitchen from B&Q and I have couple of questions to
start off with

1) At what height should the worktop be?


A lot of people will site a worktop so that it almost sits on top of
an under worktop fridge or freezer. Apparently, if you do not leave a
sufficient vent gap between the top of the applicance and the worktop,
the appliance can become very inefficient, burn out quickly and use a
lot of electricity.

Graham


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Mark Downey
 
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we will be having all integrated appliances so would you go for say 5-10mm
above the biggest appliance.

Mark


wrote in message
...
On Sun, 26 Jun 2005 13:26:28 GMT, "Mark Downey"
wrote:

Hi all
just about to install a kitchen from B&Q and I have couple of questions to
start off with

1) At what height should the worktop be?


A lot of people will site a worktop so that it almost sits on top of
an under worktop fridge or freezer. Apparently, if you do not leave a
sufficient vent gap between the top of the applicance and the worktop,
the appliance can become very inefficient, burn out quickly and use a
lot of electricity.

Graham




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Andy Dingley
 
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On Sun, 26 Jun 2005 14:25:37 GMT, "Mark Downey"
wrote:

we will be having all integrated appliances so would you go for say 5-10mm
above the biggest appliance.


Far too small a gap for an efficient fridge. But then many fridges have
a grille at the back of the worktop too. There should be an upstand
around this grille, or else it's a dirt trap.

Personally I hate built-in fridges - they're just too small.


If you place the worktops so as to allow appliances to be moved in and
out, then don't forget to allow space for fasteners and for appliances
that need a slight tilt to get onto their rollers.
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Dave Plowman (News)
 
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In article ,
Andy Dingley wrote:
If you place the worktops so as to allow appliances to be moved in and
out, then don't forget to allow space for fasteners and for appliances
that need a slight tilt to get onto their rollers.


And if tiling the floor, make sure you do this first. Pal did a fitted
kitchen with built in appliances and then tiled with ceramic tiles. Can't
get them out now. ;-)

--
*Also too, never, ever use repetitive redundancies *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


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On Sun, 26 Jun 2005 16:28:54 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

And if tiling the floor, make sure you do this first. Pal did a fitted
kitchen with built in appliances and then tiled with ceramic tiles. Can't
get them out now. ;-)


A friend of mine purchased a house. The previous owners had installed
a very expensive fitted kitchen.

I gather that the lady of the household asked the kitchen designers to
fit lower sideboards because she was not very tall.

As a result, the kitchen designers had to go for non standard
appliances.

My friend has just discovered that the dishwasher needs replacing.

The dishwasher is not a standard fit or design. Only one company in
the UK stocks this particular manufacturer. The price of a replacement
dishwasher - over £1,000.

Graham


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On Sun, 26 Jun 2005 14:25:37 GMT, "Mark Downey"
wrote:

we will be having all integrated appliances so would you go for say 5-10mm
above the biggest appliance.


The manufacturer will specify a minimum gap.

Check the instructions that come with the appliances.

Graham


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John Rumm
 
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Mark Downey wrote:

just about to install a kitchen from B&Q and I have couple of questions to
start off with

1) At what height should the worktop be?


Somewhat goverend by the height of the kitchen units. If you want it
higher than this, you will need to build a stage for all the units to
sit on to raise the level. Lower can be achieved by cutting down the
built in plinths on the units.

Depends on how tall you are as to what is comfortable.

2) How high above the worktops for plug sockets?


Usually placed approx midway between base and wall units. You can also
get 45 degree angled sockets that can go flush with the base of a wall
unit if you prefer.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
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Stuart Noble
 
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John Rumm wrote:
Mark Downey wrote:

just about to install a kitchen from B&Q and I have couple of
questions to start off with

1) At what height should the worktop be?



Somewhat goverend by the height of the kitchen units.

which can be adjusted on the plastic legs. I'd go for a setting that
allows the plinth to sit neatly with 3mm gap. That way the plinths can
rest on the floor without having to be wedged in if the floor is uneven.
Cutting them down is a pain.
If the bottom of your socket is a fraction under 6" you can slip a tile
behind it nicely.
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Andy Wade
 
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Mark Downey wrote:

2) How high above the worktops for plug sockets?


The new IEE Electrician's Guide to the Building Regulations recommends a
minimum of 150 mm to the centre-line of the sockets. Also there should
be a minimum of 300 mm horizontal clearance between the edges of sockets
and sinks, draining boards or hobs.

--
Andy


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antgel
 
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Andy Wade wrote:
Mark Downey wrote:

2) How high above the worktops for plug sockets?


The new IEE Electrician's Guide to the Building Regulations recommends a
minimum of 150 mm to the centre-line of the sockets. Also there should
be a minimum of 300 mm horizontal clearance between the edges of sockets
and sinks, draining boards or hobs.


Does this also apply to FCUs?

Antony

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Andy Wade
 
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antgel wrote:

Andy Wade wrote:
The new IEE Electrician's Guide to the Building Regulations recommends a
minimum of 150 mm to the centre-line of the sockets. Also there should
be a minimum of 300 mm horizontal clearance between the edges of sockets
and sinks, draining boards or hobs.


Does this also apply to FCUs?


The literal answer - according to the said Guide - is that the 300 mm
horizontal clearance applies to all wiring accessories, but the 150 mm
minimum centre height only applies to sockets. But in practice you'd
usually want all the accessories at the same height, so the answer may
as well be "yes."

I should stress that this is advisory, not regulatory, and the 300 mm
rule could be bent a little if space is tight. Common sense should be
always be applied and the object of the exercise is to place the
fittings where they are convenient to operate (without having to reach
over hot surfaces) and won't get splashed.

See also
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/...e=source&hl=en

--
Andy
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Another Dave
 
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Mark Downey wrote:
Hi all
just about to install a kitchen from B&Q and I have couple of questions to
start off with

1) At what height should the worktop be?


The instructions say screw in the adjustable foot until the little dot
just disappears. It worked for me.

Another Dave

--
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raden
 
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In message , Mark Downey
writes
Hi all
just about to install a kitchen from B&Q and I have couple of questions to
start off with

1) At what height should the worktop be?


It'll be at the height dictated by the units onto which it is screwed -
as simple as that


and

2) How high above the worktops for plug sockets?


Mine are at about 30cm


--
geoff
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