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toller
 
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Default A couple more plumbing/sweating questions

1) If the assembly fails the "pressure test" and is too wet to unsweat
(desweat?) do you just recut the pipe and start over?

2) I am putting in two Ts; one to a waterpowered sump pump, and one to a
valve and stub, to be used for a new outside faucet this summer. I
assembled everything, and intended on cutting out a section of pipe, and
installing the assembly with mending couplers.
I told a friend about it and he said I was doing it completely backwards.
He would cut out a piece of pipe, put one T on either end, and then (after
pushing the pipe apart somewhat) putting a pipe between the Ts.
I guess that makes sense, since it eliminates the need for the mending
couplers, but requires pushing the pipes back to get the connecting piece
in.
Is he right about it being the right way to do it?


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Steve Manes
 
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Default

On Sun, 13 Feb 2005 23:44:49 GMT, "toller" wrote:

1) If the assembly fails the "pressure test" and is too wet to unsweat
(desweat?) do you just recut the pipe and start over?


No, just drain the pipe. There are all kinds of ways to remove
trapped water: a wet/dry vac, a baster, a pipe cleaner, etc. A geezer
plumber told me he uses bread because any crumbs will dissolve later,
but I don't think much of this idea because it could clog filters..
Residual water laying in the bottom of the pipe can be evaporated by
gently heating it with the torch. You can hear it when the pipe's
dry.

2) I am putting in two Ts; one to a waterpowered sump pump, and one to a
valve and stub, to be used for a new outside faucet this summer. I
assembled everything, and intended on cutting out a section of pipe, and
installing the assembly with mending couplers.


I can't visualize the layout but I'd definitely use a union. Sooner
or later that pump will have to be removed for service.

Steve Manes
Brooklyn, NY
http://www.magpie.com/house/bbs
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Stormin Mormon
 
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Default

Installing a union is a great way to delay the need for service. Why is it
that when you slam it together iwth couplers, it fails sooner?

The bread trick is for when you've got something dribbling into your working
area -- cram a piece of bread in, and then clean and sweat real quick before
the water gets through.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Steve Manes" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 13 Feb 2005 23:44:49 GMT, "toller" wrote:

1) If the assembly fails the "pressure test" and is too wet to unsweat
(desweat?) do you just recut the pipe and start over?


No, just drain the pipe. There are all kinds of ways to remove
trapped water: a wet/dry vac, a baster, a pipe cleaner, etc. A geezer
plumber told me he uses bread because any crumbs will dissolve later,
but I don't think much of this idea because it could clog filters..
Residual water laying in the bottom of the pipe can be evaporated by
gently heating it with the torch. You can hear it when the pipe's
dry.

2) I am putting in two Ts; one to a waterpowered sump pump, and one to a
valve and stub, to be used for a new outside faucet this summer. I
assembled everything, and intended on cutting out a section of pipe, and
installing the assembly with mending couplers.


I can't visualize the layout but I'd definitely use a union. Sooner
or later that pump will have to be removed for service.

Steve Manes
Brooklyn, NY
http://www.magpie.com/house/bbs


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Duane Bozarth
 
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Default

toller wrote:

1) If the assembly fails the "pressure test" and is too wet to unsweat
(desweat?) do you just recut the pipe and start over?

2) I am putting in two Ts; one to a waterpowered sump pump, and one to a
valve and stub, to be used for a new outside faucet this summer. I
assembled everything, and intended on cutting out a section of pipe, and
installing the assembly with mending couplers.
I told a friend about it and he said I was doing it completely backwards.
He would cut out a piece of pipe, put one T on either end, and then (after
pushing the pipe apart somewhat) putting a pipe between the Ts.
I guess that makes sense, since it eliminates the need for the mending
couplers, but requires pushing the pipes back to get the connecting piece
in.
Is he right about it being the right way to do it?


Depends... In general, I'd agree w/ him.

Not sure what you're calling "mending couplers"--you mean pipe unions or
other threaded connector, I assume?

If I understand your geometry, I'd put the tees in as your buddy
suggests and connect the pump near the pump itself w/ union(s) so it
(and essentially only it) can be removed for service w/o a large chunk
of pipe or needing to unsolder any joints.

As for a fixing a leaky sweated joint, cut the water off above the
location and drain the line first by opening at least one upstream
faucet to let air in...that'll help immensely, no doubt. If it's a long
horizontal run w/ no slope, you can use wet/dry vac to pull most of the
water then get stuff ready and re-sweat it quickly before there's enough
water back to really cause a problem...you should only need the "bread
trick" in really rare instances.

If you're having trouble sweating joints, you may not be using enough
heat--what are you using for a heat source? Or, you may not be flowing
enough solder in the joint or heating the joint sufficiently before
applying the solder...heat on the opposite side and just touch the
solder to the near side...when it melts easily, then flow it into the
joint. It shouldn't take but 20-30 sec at most to heat a 3/4" joint if
you're using enough heat.

Take a few short sections of pipe and fittings and practice until you
can get that operation down...a few fittings in the spare parts box are
easy compared to the pita of having to repair a bad joint...
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