UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
tom patton
 
Posts: n/a
Default rafter height advice

Hi all.
I am setting out my 4 main Kerto beams for building my pyramid roof on-roof
is zinc sheeted.
The architect/structural engineers idea is that you cut two slots in the
existing flat roof set up 2 beams 7 metres long on inner brick load bearing
walls then you build the roof on top based around the other two which rest
on the first two at right angles forming a 6.1 metre square.
Problem is they did not check the slope of the existing flat roof the
slotted in beams are below roof level the brickie-who I agree with says just
put pads under the beams to raise them-they are 150x200 in cross section
surely there is no problem in raising them by 40mm on structural C24 timber
pads.


  #2   Report Post  
BigWallop
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"tom patton" wrote in message
. uk...
Hi all.
I am setting out my 4 main Kerto beams for building my pyramid roof

on-roof
is zinc sheeted.
The architect/structural engineers idea is that you cut two slots in the
existing flat roof set up 2 beams 7 metres long on inner brick load

bearing
walls then you build the roof on top based around the other two which rest
on the first two at right angles forming a 6.1 metre square.
Problem is they did not check the slope of the existing flat roof the
slotted in beams are below roof level the brickie-who I agree with says

just
put pads under the beams to raise them-they are 150x200 in cross section
surely there is no problem in raising them by 40mm on structural C24

timber
pads.



I'm glad you say you have engineers involved in this build, because a
sloping roof on top of walls, even supporting ones, generates far more
outward pushing forces than the flat roof does.

What I think your engineers are telling you is, cut slots in to the edges of
the existing roof until you hit brickwork. Once you can see the outside
corner of the top row of bricks, then you place the bottom edge of your new
main purloin beams against it until you get the angle you need to meet both
diagonal corners of the new roof equal. The height of the brickwork
shouldn't matter, because what you need to achieve is the same angle on both
side of the roof. Once you get the first diagonal pair of beams in place,
then to other two should fall against them with no problems.

Roofs don't sit directly on top of the walls. A roof over-hangs the edges
of the building to keep the rain from running directly down the walls. The
height of all the walls could all be different, but the roof angle will
remain the same all round because it only sits on the top of the building.
Bracing timbers or strings stop the angle from opening up, so this is what
holds the roof on.


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Where to get advice about old timber framed buildings? Longish Nick UK diy 29 February 2nd 05 02:09 PM
Risk Management/Shop Safety and Advice (long) charlie b Woodworking 8 June 9th 04 09:51 PM
Newbie to Veneering Needs Advice Jack Schumacher Woodworking 6 June 9th 04 07:39 PM
How do you measure a brick wall's height? Dean UK diy 1 August 1st 03 06:41 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 01:32 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"