Hello all,

The pump in my central heating system is marked as a Commodore 130 and
on the body of the pump is a black control box with settings numbered 1
to 5 and minimum and maximum signs.

What is this for?

Regards....Mike

Crewood wrote:
Hello all,

The pump in my central heating system is marked as a Commodore 130 and
on the body of the pump is a black control box with settings numbered 1
to 5 and minimum and maximum signs.

What is this for?

Regards....Mike

is the -[minus] sign near the 1 and the +[plus] sign near the 5 ?

/scratches head, wonders 'whatever can it mean' ? )



RT

In article .com,
Crewood wrote:
The pump in my central heating system is marked as a Commodore 130 and
on the body of the pump is a black control box with settings numbered 1
to 5 and minimum and maximum signs.

What is this for?

A speed control?

However, be aware that speeding it up over what the minimum needed to
overcome the resistance of the furthest away rad does little apart from
increase noise and wear. And in a vented system may cause pumping over.
Indeed, when a system is properly balanced (see FAQ) it might be possible
to reduce the speed even more.

--
*If I throw a stick, will you leave?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Yes, the minus is nearer the 1 and the plus near the 5.

The arrow on the small switch currently points to number 2.

The reason I ask is the radiators downstairs are cool and the upstairs
very hot, I wondered if it had anything to do with the pump.

Regards....Mike

Crewood wrote:
Yes, the minus is nearer the 1 and the plus near the 5.
The arrow on the small switch currently points to number 2.
The reason I ask is the radiators downstairs are cool and the upstairs
very hot, I wondered if it had anything to do with the pump.

No, the problem is the system is not 'balanced'

google for uk.d-i-y central heating FAQ balanced

Probably one of the easiest DIY plumbing-related tasks as it doesn't
involve getting wet[1]

Owain



[1] If it does please tell us all about it, we'd enjoy the giggle.

In article .com,
Crewood wrote:
Yes, the minus is nearer the 1 and the plus near the 5.

The arrow on the small switch currently points to number 2.

The reason I ask is the radiators downstairs are cool and the upstairs
very hot, I wondered if it had anything to do with the pump.

Unlikely - unless the downstairs rads are fed from above. You need to read
the FAQ on balancing rads.

--
*Reality is the illusion that occurs due to the lack of alcohol *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Hi All,

Thanks for the help, excuse my ignorance but where do I find the FAQ on
UK D.I.Y?

Regards....Mike

Crewood wrote:
Hi All,

Thanks for the help, excuse my ignorance but where do I find the FAQ
on UK D.I.Y?

Regards....Mike

To quote Owain:

google for uk.d-i-y central heating FAQ balanced

Go to Google and search for "uk.d-i-y central heating FAQ balanced"

Or just go to http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/rad-balance.html I
think that's the one he was meaning

Hope that helps

David

David Hearn wrote:

Or just go to http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/rad-balance.html I
think that's the one he was meaning

The symptoms described

the radiators downstairs are cool and the upstairs very hot,

are consistent with a pump that's seized or failed altogether. Before
the OP starts fiddling with all his lockshield valves I'd suggest
removing the pump's bleed screw - that's the big one in the middle of
the round end of the motor body - and seeing whether the shaft is spinning.

When you take the screw out (have a bowl and some old towels handy to
catch the small amount of water which will escape) you can see the end
of the shaft, which usually has a screwdriver slot in it. With the
power off, insert a suitably sized driver and check that the shaft is
free to rotate. If not, a modest amount of gently applied torque will
usually free it off. If the shaft is free, but does not spin when power
is applied, then it's probably time for a new pump - assuming the
control electrics are OK and the pump is actually getting power, that is.

--
Andy

"Andy Wade" wrote in message
...
David Hearn wrote:

Or just go to http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/rad-balance.html I
think that's the one he was meaning

The symptoms described

the radiators downstairs are cool and the upstairs very hot,

are consistent with a pump that's seized or failed altogether. Before
the OP starts fiddling with all his lockshield valves I'd suggest
removing the pump's bleed screw - that's the big one in the middle of
the round end of the motor body - and seeing whether the shaft is
spinning.

When you take the screw out (have a bowl and some old towels handy to
catch the small amount of water which will escape) you can see the end
of the shaft, which usually has a screwdriver slot in it. With the
power off, insert a suitably sized driver and check that the shaft is
free to rotate. If not, a modest amount of gently applied torque will
usually free it off. If the shaft is free, but does not spin when power
is applied, then it's probably time for a new pump - assuming the
control electrics are OK and the pump is actually getting power, that is.

The plastic impellers can disintegrate, if a solid object gets into the
system or is dislodged, such as solder inside a joint.


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In message , Doctor Evil
writes

"Andy Wade" wrote in message
.. .
David Hearn wrote:

Or just go to http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/rad-balance.html I
think that's the one he was meaning

The symptoms described

the radiators downstairs are cool and the upstairs very hot,

are consistent with a pump that's seized or failed altogether. Before
the OP starts fiddling with all his lockshield valves I'd suggest
removing the pump's bleed screw - that's the big one in the middle of
the round end of the motor body - and seeing whether the shaft is
spinning.

When you take the screw out (have a bowl and some old towels handy to
catch the small amount of water which will escape) you can see the end
of the shaft, which usually has a screwdriver slot in it. With the
power off, insert a suitably sized driver and check that the shaft is
free to rotate. If not, a modest amount of gently applied torque will
usually free it off. If the shaft is free, but does not spin when power
is applied, then it's probably time for a new pump - assuming the
control electrics are OK and the pump is actually getting power, that is.

The plastic impellers can disintegrate, if a solid object gets into the
system or is dislodged, such as solder inside a joint.

Can it ******** ...

Impellers are made from plastics which just don't disintegrate, they can
tear, but they don't disintegrate

what DOES happen is that the shaft can shear

Go and do a google search, you might find something useful (like a
cyanide pill)
--
geoff

In article ,
Andy Wade wrote:
The symptoms described

the radiators downstairs are cool and the upstairs very hot,

are consistent with a pump that's seized or failed altogether.

Don't really see this, given that switching on and off the pump via a stat
is one way of controlling the temperature of the house. If there was that
much thermo syphon and the boiler an old closed loop type, this simply
wouldn't work?

--
*Who are these kids and why are they calling me Mom?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Andy Wade wrote:

The symptoms described
are consistent with a pump that's seized or failed altogether.

Don't really see this, given that switching on and off the pump via a stat
is one way of controlling the temperature of the house. If there was that
much thermo syphon and the boiler an old closed loop type, this simply
wouldn't work?

Fair comment, but I have observed this effect more than once with a dead
pump. I guess it will be very dependent on the pipework layout of the
particular system, so YM could very well V. It's definitely worth
checking basic things like this though before embarking on trying to
re-balance the whole system.

--
Andy