I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

Thanks

i

Ignoramus3828 fired this volley in
:

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.


Find an old DeVilbiss (or other brand) air-powered "airless" sprayer. I
have one for painting. It is a superior sprayer of paint, even of high-
viscosity. I have absolutely NO doubt it would spray motor oil equally
as well.

It looks like a 'paint canister' of the sort for air-spraying, except
with a piston mechanism on top to do the pressurization of the fluid,
rather than relying only on air pressure. Like motorized airless
sprayers, it can produce many hundreds of pounds of fluid pressure,
instead of being limited only to the pressure your air supply can
produce.

And they spray very cleanly. I've painted many tens of thousands of
square feet of farm buildings with one I bought for $50 at a welfare
store.

Lloyd

On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 20:02:25 -0500, Ignoramus3828
wrote:

I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

Thanks

i
I had a pressure feed paint gun with a 1 gallon tank that we used to
oil-spray the bottom of our vehicles with used airplane engine oil.
Properly adjusted it laid the oil on without too much "fogging".
Putting it on warm helped

On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 20:02:25 -0500, Ignoramus3828
wrote:

I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

Thanks

i

Standard HLVP paint sprayer from Harbor Freight. Just filter the ****
out of the oil before adding it to the paint rig.

Gunner

On 3/21/2016 9:34 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 20:02:25 -0500, Ignoramus3828
wrote:

I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

Thanks

i
I had a pressure feed paint gun with a 1 gallon tank that we used to
oil-spray the bottom of our vehicles with used airplane engine oil.
Properly adjusted it laid the oil on without too much "fogging".
Putting it on warm helped


Why airplane oil?

Ignoramus3828 wrote:
I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

Thanks

i

Cheap HVLP gun will work for straight filtered oil.

Or filter it, add it to a turkey fryer and toss a few toilet seal rings
(beeswax) in. Then use an undercoat gun and wands to get into all the
spots. The wax will set up and hold the oil in place. Close to the
Bar&Chain oil and wax mix that I and a bunch of others use.

Either way wear a GOOD respirator. Breathing in an oil mist will not
make you healthy !!!!

--
Steve W.

"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Ignoramus3828 wrote:
I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

Or filter it, add it to a turkey fryer and toss a few toilet seal
rings (beeswax) in.

They are softer than paraffin wax and don't crack as much in cold
weather. I brush melted toilet bowl wax onto the ends of cut logs to
reduce splitting as they dry and shrink.

The MSDS data suggests that Thompson's Water Seal and LPS-3 have had
their active preservatives removed and are now just wax in solvent.

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Ignoramus3828 wrote:
I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

Or filter it, add it to a turkey fryer and toss a few toilet seal
rings (beeswax) in.

They are softer than paraffin wax and don't crack as much in cold
weather. I brush melted toilet bowl wax onto the ends of cut logs to
reduce splitting as they dry and shrink.

The MSDS data suggests that Thompson's Water Seal and LPS-3 have had
their active preservatives removed and are now just wax in solvent.

What were these additives?

Tom Gardner on Tue, 22 Mar 2016 02:13:18 -0400 typed
in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On 3/21/2016 9:34 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 20:02:25 -0500, Ignoramus3828 wrote:
I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.
I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.
I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

I had a pressure feed paint gun with a 1 gallon tank that we used to
oil-spray the bottom of our vehicles with used airplane engine oil.
Properly adjusted it laid the oil on without too much "fogging".
Putting it on warm helped


Why airplane oil?

It is what he has?
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Ignoramus3828 wrote:
I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

Or filter it, add it to a turkey fryer and toss a few toilet seal
rings (beeswax) in.

They are softer than paraffin wax and don't crack as much in cold
weather. I brush melted toilet bowl wax onto the ends of cut logs
to
reduce splitting as they dry and shrink.

The MSDS data suggests that Thompson's Water Seal and LPS-3 have
had
their active preservatives removed and are now just wax in solvent.

What were these additives?

I don't remember exactly and I'm keeping my computer clean by not
searching while doing my taxes. You could look.

On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 20:02:25 -0500, Ignoramus3828
wrote:

I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

Thanks

i
There is a type of atomizer that forces air out of a slot cut into a
hollow sphere. The oil is then pumped so that it flows over the sphere
and the slot. This allows the use of unfiltered oil.
Eric

On Tue, 22 Mar 2016 12:09:07 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Ignoramus3828 wrote:
I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

Or filter it, add it to a turkey fryer and toss a few toilet seal
rings (beeswax) in.

They are softer than paraffin wax and don't crack as much in cold
weather. I brush melted toilet bowl wax onto the ends of cut logs
to
reduce splitting as they dry and shrink.

The MSDS data suggests that Thompson's Water Seal and LPS-3 have
had
their active preservatives removed and are now just wax in solvent.

What were these additives?

I don't remember exactly and I'm keeping my computer clean by not
searching while doing my taxes. You could look.

This is second-hand info, but I remember from discussions a decade ago
with some woodworkers...

The old formula was just some volatile solvent and some kind of wax --
not common paraffin, according to reports, but some similar
hydrocarbon wax. The new formula is water-based. It still contains
some volatiles, but it doesn't spread well and it doesn't soak in as
well.

The old formula is still sold in some states. For years, when I wanted
a paint with high VOC, I drove from NJ over to PA and bought it there.
That's how I got my last (current) can of Thompson's Water Seal,
around 5 years ago.

If you're in a state where you can still buy it, the can looks the
same but the original formula says of the VOCs, "600 g/L." The newer
stuff is much less -- something like 1/.3 as much. It's also yellowish
and thicker than the old water-clear formula.

I helped my neighbor paint our dividing fence with the new stuff. It's
OK, but it's a little yucky and tacky.

--
Ed Huntress

On 22/03/16 16:17, wrote:
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 20:02:25 -0500, Ignoramus3828
wrote:

I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

Thanks

i
There is a type of atomizer that forces air out of a slot cut into a
hollow sphere. The oil is then pumped so that it flows over the sphere
and the slot. This allows the use of unfiltered oil.
Eric
IIRC you're talking about a Babington burner

On Tue, 22 Mar 2016 02:13:18 -0400, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 3/21/2016 9:34 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 20:02:25 -0500, Ignoramus3828
wrote:

I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

Thanks

i
I had a pressure feed paint gun with a 1 gallon tank that we used to
oil-spray the bottom of our vehicles with used airplane engine oil.
Properly adjusted it laid the oil on without too much "fogging".
Putting it on warm helped


Why airplane oil?
Because we had about 30 gallons of it at the hangar from changing the
oil on the planes over the last year or two.

Am Dienstag, 22. März 2016 02:02:30 UTC+1 schrieb Ignoramus3828:
I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I've done this before. I used an empty carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. I soldered a garden sprayer nozzle into the output tube and a Schrader valve into a hole in the brass neck. Unscrew the whole top, fill to about 2/3 with oil and then reassemble and charge with air to 8 or 10 bar using a compressor. It works well. I might have a picture of it somewhere.

Chris

On Tue, 22 Mar 2016 12:28:46 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Tue, 22 Mar 2016 12:09:07 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" ... wrote:
"Cydrome Leader" ... wrote ...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
....
The MSDS data suggests that Thompson's Water Seal and LPS-3 have
had their active preservatives removed and are now just wax in solvent.

What were these additives?

I don't remember exactly and I'm keeping my computer clean by not
searching while doing my taxes. You could look.

This is second-hand info, but I remember from discussions a decade ago
with some woodworkers...

The old formula was just some volatile solvent and some kind of wax --
not common paraffin, according to reports, but some similar
hydrocarbon wax. The new formula is water-based. It still contains
some volatiles, but it doesn't spread well and it doesn't soak in as
well.

Amazon reviews of Thompsons 10104 MultiSurface Water Seal Waterproofer
new formula show 4 positive reviews, and 24 critical (1 star of 5)
reviews ... amazingly negative, overall.
http://www.amazon.com/Thompsons-10104-MultiSurface-Water-Seal/product-reviews/B000LNOZ8Y/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewpnt_rgt?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=c ritical

The old formula is still sold in some states. For years, when I wanted
a paint with high VOC, I drove from NJ over to PA and bought it there.
That's how I got my last (current) can of Thompson's Water Seal,
around 5 years ago.

If you're in a state where you can still buy it, the can looks the
same but the original formula says of the VOCs, "600 g/L." The newer
stuff is much less -- something like 1/.3 as much. It's also yellowish
and thicker than the old water-clear formula.

I helped my neighbor paint our dividing fence with the new stuff. It's
OK, but it's a little yucky and tacky.

--
jiw

On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 20:02:25 -0500, Ignoramus3828
wrote:

I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

Besides it probably being illegal in Illinoise and salt/water/dust
would likely quickly erase it from the frame, MOST people use a
rubberized undercoating for frames and underbodies, Ig. Why not
recycle the oil and steamclean + undercoat your trucks, for a
once-in-a-lifetime fix?

Otherwise, what about using an existing aerator spray tip and
adjusting the air pressure to control the overspray? Olive oil can be
sprayed with a hand-pump and regular paint spray can nozzle. Grab a
magnifying glass and look at pressure washer or paint gun tips for
clues into spray containment. It's possible that an HVLP paint
sprayer might work, so you might give that a try, too.
http://tinyurl.com/3muqz79


I dislike the oil spray concept from an eco standpoint, and I'm
surprised it isn't illegal. Where's the freakin' EPA now? Watch them
fine a person $50k for leaking a quart of oil onto the ground, but
they let 1,000,000 people leak oil onto the street and flow into lakes
and sewer systems? Go figure!

--
Never trouble another for what you can do for yourself.
-- Thomas Jefferson

On Tue, 22 Mar 2016 02:13:18 -0400, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 3/21/2016 9:34 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 20:02:25 -0500, Ignoramus3828
wrote:

I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

Thanks

i
I had a pressure feed paint gun with a 1 gallon tank that we used to
oil-spray the bottom of our vehicles with used airplane engine oil.
Properly adjusted it laid the oil on without too much "fogging".
Putting it on warm helped


Why airplane oil?

LIGHTER, of course, Tawm.

--
Never trouble another for what you can do for yourself.
-- Thomas Jefferson

On Wed, 23 Mar 2016 16:21:11 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 20:02:25 -0500, Ignoramus3828
wrote:

I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

Besides it probably being illegal in Illinoise and salt/water/dust
would likely quickly erase it from the frame, MOST people use a
rubberized undercoating for frames and underbodies, Ig. Why not
recycle the oil and steamclean + undercoat your trucks, for a
once-in-a-lifetime fix?

Otherwise, what about using an existing aerator spray tip and
adjusting the air pressure to control the overspray? Olive oil can be
sprayed with a hand-pump and regular paint spray can nozzle. Grab a
magnifying glass and look at pressure washer or paint gun tips for
clues into spray containment. It's possible that an HVLP paint
sprayer might work, so you might give that a try, too.
http://tinyurl.com/3muqz79


I dislike the oil spray concept from an eco standpoint, and I'm
surprised it isn't illegal. Where's the freakin' EPA now? Watch them
fine a person $50k for leaking a quart of oil onto the ground, but
they let 1,000,000 people leak oil onto the street and flow into lakes
and sewer systems? Go figure!
Rubberized undercoating guarantees the vehicle WILL rust as soon as
ithe rubber film is damaged - and it WILL be damaged.

On Wed, 23 Mar 2016 21:57:12 -0000 (UTC), James Waldby
wrote:

On Tue, 22 Mar 2016 12:28:46 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Tue, 22 Mar 2016 12:09:07 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" ... wrote:
"Cydrome Leader" ... wrote ...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
The MSDS data suggests that Thompson's Water Seal and LPS-3 have
had their active preservatives removed and are now just wax in solvent.

What were these additives?

I don't remember exactly and I'm keeping my computer clean by not
searching while doing my taxes. You could look.

This is second-hand info, but I remember from discussions a decade ago
with some woodworkers...

The old formula was just some volatile solvent and some kind of wax --
not common paraffin, according to reports, but some similar
hydrocarbon wax. The new formula is water-based. It still contains
some volatiles, but it doesn't spread well and it doesn't soak in as
well.

Amazon reviews of Thompsons 10104 MultiSurface Water Seal Waterproofer
new formula show 4 positive reviews, and 24 critical (1 star of 5)
reviews ... amazingly negative, overall.
http://www.amazon.com/Thompsons-10104-MultiSurface-Water-Seal/product-reviews/B000LNOZ8Y/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewpnt_rgt?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=c ritical

Hmmm. That's exactly what we encountered, except that it did
eventually dry.

--
Ed Huntress



The old formula is still sold in some states. For years, when I wanted
a paint with high VOC, I drove from NJ over to PA and bought it there.
That's how I got my last (current) can of Thompson's Water Seal,
around 5 years ago.

If you're in a state where you can still buy it, the can looks the
same but the original formula says of the VOCs, "600 g/L." The newer
stuff is much less -- something like 1/.3 as much. It's also yellowish
and thicker than the old water-clear formula.

I helped my neighbor paint our dividing fence with the new stuff. It's
OK, but it's a little yucky and tacky.

A little update.

I bought a Harbor Freight "engine cleaning gun" 68290, which siphons
liquid and sprays it with assistance of air.

I hooked it up to a pressurized stainless tank so that oil is pressure
fed into the gun (at a small pressure).

The result seems to be pretty good, a decent amount of oil sprayed
without too much atomization.

i

On 2016-03-23, James Waldby wrote:
On Tue, 22 Mar 2016 12:28:46 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Tue, 22 Mar 2016 12:09:07 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" ... wrote:
"Cydrome Leader" ... wrote ...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
The MSDS data suggests that Thompson's Water Seal and LPS-3 have
had their active preservatives removed and are now just wax in solvent.

What were these additives?

I don't remember exactly and I'm keeping my computer clean by not
searching while doing my taxes. You could look.

This is second-hand info, but I remember from discussions a decade ago
with some woodworkers...

The old formula was just some volatile solvent and some kind of wax --
not common paraffin, according to reports, but some similar
hydrocarbon wax. The new formula is water-based. It still contains
some volatiles, but it doesn't spread well and it doesn't soak in as
well.

Amazon reviews of Thompsons 10104 MultiSurface Water Seal Waterproofer
new formula show 4 positive reviews, and 24 critical (1 star of 5)
reviews ... amazingly negative, overall.
http://www.amazon.com/Thompsons-10104-MultiSurface-Water-Seal/product-reviews/B000LNOZ8Y/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewpnt_rgt?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=c ritical


Really amazingly negative reviews!
i

On 2016-03-23, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 20:02:25 -0500, Ignoramus3828
wrote:

I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

Besides it probably being illegal in Illinoise and salt/water/dust
would likely quickly erase it from the frame, MOST people use a
rubberized undercoating for frames and underbodies, Ig. Why not
recycle the oil and steamclean + undercoat your trucks, for a
once-in-a-lifetime fix?

That stuff does not stick to rust. Oil does stick to rust.

Rust continues under any coating. Rust does not continue under oil.

Undercoatings are hard to repair. Oil film is easy to repair.



Otherwise, what about using an existing aerator spray tip and
adjusting the air pressure to control the overspray? Olive oil can be
sprayed with a hand-pump and regular paint spray can nozzle. Grab a
magnifying glass and look at pressure washer or paint gun tips for
clues into spray containment. It's possible that an HVLP paint
sprayer might work, so you might give that a try, too.
http://tinyurl.com/3muqz79


I dislike the oil spray concept from an eco standpoint, and I'm
surprised it isn't illegal. Where's the freakin' EPA now? Watch them
fine a person $50k for leaking a quart of oil onto the ground, but
they let 1,000,000 people leak oil onto the street and flow into lakes
and sewer systems? Go figure!


I am not a lawyer and I do not provide legal advise.

I just want my trucks not to rust from the bottom.

i

On Thu, 24 Mar 2016 08:40:48 -0500, Ignoramus9970
wrote:

A little update.

I bought a Harbor Freight "engine cleaning gun" 68290, which siphons
liquid and sprays it with assistance of air.

I use something similar, which I bought from Eastwood a few decades
ago, to spray bulk engine cleaner. It worked great -- back when I had
engines built before they knew how to keep the suckers from leaking
oil.


I hooked it up to a pressurized stainless tank so that oil is pressure
fed into the gun (at a small pressure).

The result seems to be pretty good, a decent amount of oil sprayed
without too much atomization.

i

On Thu, 24 Mar 2016 09:28:30 -0500, Ignoramus9970
wrote:

On 2016-03-23, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 20:02:25 -0500, Ignoramus3828
wrote:

I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

Besides it probably being illegal in Illinoise and salt/water/dust
would likely quickly erase it from the frame, MOST people use a
rubberized undercoating for frames and underbodies, Ig. Why not
recycle the oil and steamclean + undercoat your trucks, for a
once-in-a-lifetime fix?

That stuff does not stick to rust. Oil does stick to rust.

Rust continues under any coating. Rust does not continue under oil.

Undercoatings are hard to repair. Oil film is easy to repair.



Otherwise, what about using an existing aerator spray tip and
adjusting the air pressure to control the overspray? Olive oil can be
sprayed with a hand-pump and regular paint spray can nozzle. Grab a
magnifying glass and look at pressure washer or paint gun tips for
clues into spray containment. It's possible that an HVLP paint
sprayer might work, so you might give that a try, too.
http://tinyurl.com/3muqz79


I dislike the oil spray concept from an eco standpoint, and I'm
surprised it isn't illegal. Where's the freakin' EPA now? Watch them
fine a person $50k for leaking a quart of oil onto the ground, but
they let 1,000,000 people leak oil onto the street and flow into lakes
and sewer systems? Go figure!


I am not a lawyer and I do not provide legal advise.

I just want my trucks not to rust from the bottom.

i

Back when I was flipping sports cars for a fast buck, in the late
'60s, a mechanic friend recommended that I apply fresh undercoating
when I was selling a car. He said it would hold things in place when
the floor pan rusted through. g

--
Ed Huntress

Christopher Tidy wrote:
Am Dienstag, 22. M?rz 2016 02:02:30 UTC+1 schrieb Ignoramus3828:
I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I've done this before. I used an empty carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. I soldered a garden sprayer nozzle into the output tube and a Schrader valve into a hole in the brass neck. Unscrew the whole top, fill to about 2/3 with oil and then reassemble and charge with air to 8 or 10 bar using a compressor. It works well. I might have a picture of it somewhere.

That would be fun if somebody used it to put out a fire.

On Thu, 24 Mar 2016 10:49:42 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Thu, 24 Mar 2016 09:28:30 -0500, Ignoramus9970
wrote:

On 2016-03-23, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 20:02:25 -0500, Ignoramus3828
wrote:

I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

Besides it probably being illegal in Illinoise and salt/water/dust
would likely quickly erase it from the frame, MOST people use a
rubberized undercoating for frames and underbodies, Ig. Why not
recycle the oil and steamclean + undercoat your trucks, for a
once-in-a-lifetime fix?

That stuff does not stick to rust. Oil does stick to rust.

Rust continues under any coating. Rust does not continue under oil.

Undercoatings are hard to repair. Oil film is easy to repair.



Otherwise, what about using an existing aerator spray tip and
adjusting the air pressure to control the overspray? Olive oil can be
sprayed with a hand-pump and regular paint spray can nozzle. Grab a
magnifying glass and look at pressure washer or paint gun tips for
clues into spray containment. It's possible that an HVLP paint
sprayer might work, so you might give that a try, too.
http://tinyurl.com/3muqz79


I dislike the oil spray concept from an eco standpoint, and I'm
surprised it isn't illegal. Where's the freakin' EPA now? Watch them
fine a person $50k for leaking a quart of oil onto the ground, but
they let 1,000,000 people leak oil onto the street and flow into lakes
and sewer systems? Go figure!


I am not a lawyer and I do not provide legal advise.

I just want my trucks not to rust from the bottom.

i

Back when I was flipping sports cars for a fast buck, in the late
'60s, a mechanic friend recommended that I apply fresh undercoating
when I was selling a car. He said it would hold things in place when
the floor pan rusted through. g
Volswagen was famous for that in the early "rabbit" years. Tubber
undercoating on the outside of the floor. Rubber sound deadener on the
inside of the floor. Rust crystals in between. Add floor mats and you
had a 3 layer rubber floor. Looking at them they could look almost
perfect, but you could punch them with your fist almost anywhere
without bruising your knuckles.

On Thu, 24 Mar 2016 12:53:31 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 24 Mar 2016 10:49:42 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Thu, 24 Mar 2016 09:28:30 -0500, Ignoramus9970
wrote:

On 2016-03-23, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 20:02:25 -0500, Ignoramus3828
wrote:

I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

Besides it probably being illegal in Illinoise and salt/water/dust
would likely quickly erase it from the frame, MOST people use a
rubberized undercoating for frames and underbodies, Ig. Why not
recycle the oil and steamclean + undercoat your trucks, for a
once-in-a-lifetime fix?

That stuff does not stick to rust. Oil does stick to rust.

Rust continues under any coating. Rust does not continue under oil.

Undercoatings are hard to repair. Oil film is easy to repair.



Otherwise, what about using an existing aerator spray tip and
adjusting the air pressure to control the overspray? Olive oil can be
sprayed with a hand-pump and regular paint spray can nozzle. Grab a
magnifying glass and look at pressure washer or paint gun tips for
clues into spray containment. It's possible that an HVLP paint
sprayer might work, so you might give that a try, too.
http://tinyurl.com/3muqz79


I dislike the oil spray concept from an eco standpoint, and I'm
surprised it isn't illegal. Where's the freakin' EPA now? Watch them
fine a person $50k for leaking a quart of oil onto the ground, but
they let 1,000,000 people leak oil onto the street and flow into lakes
and sewer systems? Go figure!


I am not a lawyer and I do not provide legal advise.

I just want my trucks not to rust from the bottom.

i

Back when I was flipping sports cars for a fast buck, in the late
'60s, a mechanic friend recommended that I apply fresh undercoating
when I was selling a car. He said it would hold things in place when
the floor pan rusted through. g
Volswagen was famous for that in the early "rabbit" years. Tubber
undercoating on the outside of the floor. Rubber sound deadener on the
inside of the floor. Rust crystals in between. Add floor mats and you
had a 3 layer rubber floor. Looking at them they could look almost
perfect, but you could punch them with your fist almost anywhere
without bruising your knuckles.

A couple of my cars, including a ratty old Porsche Speedster that I
had for less than a month, resembled that remark. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

On 3/22/2016 4:10 PM, wrote:

Why airplane oil?
Because we had about 30 gallons of it at the hangar from changing the
oil on the planes over the last year or two.


No "special" qualities?

On 3/23/2016 7:22 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Why airplane oil?

LIGHTER, of course, Tawm.

--

I figured there was some magic quality because it came from aircraft!

wrote:
On Tue, 22 Mar 2016 02:13:18 -0400, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 3/21/2016 9:34 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 20:02:25 -0500, Ignoramus3828
wrote:

I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

Thanks

i
I had a pressure feed paint gun with a 1 gallon tank that we used to
oil-spray the bottom of our vehicles with used airplane engine oil.
Properly adjusted it laid the oil on without too much "fogging".
Putting it on warm helped


Why airplane oil?
Because we had about 30 gallons of it at the hangar from changing the
oil on the planes over the last year or two.

How much lead if any leaks into that oil?

On Thu, 24 Mar 2016 14:32:56 -0400, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 3/23/2016 7:22 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Why airplane oil?

LIGHTER, of course, Tawm.

--

I figured there was some magic quality because it came from aircraft!

Becaause it costs so much more, you hate to take it to recycling at
Walmart.

--
Ed Huntress

Ignoramus9970 fired this volley in
:

A little update.

I bought a Harbor Freight "engine cleaning gun" 68290, which siphons
liquid and sprays it with assistance of air.

I have one, too. Good on ya'... but you should try it in the siphon mode
with low pressure. Might even work better... give you freedom from that
pressurized tank.

I know from experience that they'll siphon from tens of feet away.

Lloyd

writes:

Volswagen was famous for that in the early "rabbit" years. Tubber
undercoating on the outside of the floor. Rubber sound deadener on the
inside of the floor. Rust crystals in between. Add floor mats and you
had a 3 layer rubber floor. Looking at them they could look almost
perfect, but you could punch them with your fist almost anywhere
without bruising your knuckles.

My mother had one of those. One day, as my dad and I were checking her
Rabbit before she took it on a long trip, I stomped hard on the brake
pedal, and had it go all the way to the floor. Turned out the brake
line to the rear wheels ran under the floor mats, where it was always
damp, so it was rusted, of course, and my high pressure test burst it.

-tih
--
Elections cannot be allowed to change anything. --Dr. Wolfgang Schäuble

On Thu, 24 Mar 2016 14:30:19 -0400, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 3/22/2016 4:10 PM, wrote:

Why airplane oil?
Because we had about 30 gallons of it at the hangar from changing the
oil on the planes over the last year or two.


No "special" qualities?

Nice and thick -15W50 Aeroshell - and relatively clean (changed every
35 hours)

On Thu, 24 Mar 2016 18:33:22 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 22 Mar 2016 02:13:18 -0400, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 3/21/2016 9:34 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 20:02:25 -0500, Ignoramus3828
wrote:

I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

Thanks

i
I had a pressure feed paint gun with a 1 gallon tank that we used to
oil-spray the bottom of our vehicles with used airplane engine oil.
Properly adjusted it laid the oil on without too much "fogging".
Putting it on warm helped


Why airplane oil?
Because we had about 30 gallons of it at the hangar from changing the
oil on the planes over the last year or two.

How much lead if any leaks into that oil?



Definitely measurable - ashless dispursant oil keeps it in suspension
instead of letting it "plate out" as sludge in the crankcase.

On Thu, 24 Mar 2016 20:51:48 +0100, Tom Ivar Helbekkmo
wrote:

writes:

Volswagen was famous for that in the early "rabbit" years. Tubber
undercoating on the outside of the floor. Rubber sound deadener on the
inside of the floor. Rust crystals in between. Add floor mats and you
had a 3 layer rubber floor. Looking at them they could look almost
perfect, but you could punch them with your fist almost anywhere
without bruising your knuckles.

My mother had one of those. One day, as my dad and I were checking her
Rabbit before she took it on a long trip, I stomped hard on the brake
pedal, and had it go all the way to the floor. Turned out the brake
line to the rear wheels ran under the floor mats, where it was always
damp, so it was rusted, of course, and my high pressure test burst it.

-tih
Yup - and the fuel line ran inside too.
AWFUL little machines. They say they don't build 'em like they used to
and a say "THANK GOD!!!!!"

Patching a hole in the floor on one of those critters always turned
into at least an all day job, and often ended up in a trip to the
wrecking yard when you found out just how far the cancer had spread.
After pealing off as much of the rubber from both inside and outside
and finding there was nothing left to rivit or screw or weld a patch
too - or after attempting to weld in a patch without removing the
rubber adequately from one side or the other and turning it into a
"smoke bomb" A friend did it "the easy way" and just poured a
fiberglass floor tub, using the rubber membrane as a "mold", and
screwed the fiberglass to the inner rocker panels.

wrote:
On Thu, 24 Mar 2016 18:33:22 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 22 Mar 2016 02:13:18 -0400, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 3/21/2016 9:34 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 20:02:25 -0500, Ignoramus3828
wrote:

I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

Thanks

i
I had a pressure feed paint gun with a 1 gallon tank that we used to
oil-spray the bottom of our vehicles with used airplane engine oil.
Properly adjusted it laid the oil on without too much "fogging".
Putting it on warm helped


Why airplane oil?
Because we had about 30 gallons of it at the hangar from changing the
oil on the planes over the last year or two.

How much lead if any leaks into that oil?



Definitely measurable - ashless dispursant oil keeps it in suspension
instead of letting it "plate out" as sludge in the crankcase.

Is the ashless dispersant oil aviation basically the same as detergent oil
for other vehicles? It appears they both suspend junk so it can be
filtered out of the system.

On Thu, 24 Mar 2016 22:44:55 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 24 Mar 2016 18:33:22 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 22 Mar 2016 02:13:18 -0400, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 3/21/2016 9:34 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 20:02:25 -0500, Ignoramus3828
wrote:

I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

Thanks

i
I had a pressure feed paint gun with a 1 gallon tank that we used to
oil-spray the bottom of our vehicles with used airplane engine oil.
Properly adjusted it laid the oil on without too much "fogging".
Putting it on warm helped


Why airplane oil?
Because we had about 30 gallons of it at the hangar from changing the
oil on the planes over the last year or two.

How much lead if any leaks into that oil?



Definitely measurable - ashless dispursant oil keeps it in suspension
instead of letting it "plate out" as sludge in the crankcase.

Is the ashless dispersant oil aviation basically the same as detergent oil
for other vehicles? It appears they both suspend junk so it can be
filtered out of the system.
Similar

On Thu, 24 Mar 2016 20:51:48 +0100, Tom Ivar Helbekkmo
wrote:

writes:

Volswagen was famous for that in the early "rabbit" years. Tubber
undercoating on the outside of the floor. Rubber sound deadener on the
inside of the floor. Rust crystals in between. Add floor mats and you
had a 3 layer rubber floor. Looking at them they could look almost
perfect, but you could punch them with your fist almost anywhere
without bruising your knuckles.

My mother had one of those. One day, as my dad and I were checking her
Rabbit before she took it on a long trip, I stomped hard on the brake
pedal, and had it go all the way to the floor. Turned out the brake
line to the rear wheels ran under the floor mats, where it was always
damp, so it was rusted, of course, and my high pressure test burst it.

-tih
Had a '83 K-car with the door lock/window harness under the mat under
the driver's feet. I went in and re-did all the spot welded, fabric
wrapped splices and got things more or less working again. By the time
I finished with the "public relations rep." he wouldn't even admit to
having a driver's license.
---

Gerry :-)}
London,Canada