To all youse folks doin' tree dee printing-
I have been thinking about this technology recently and was wondering
about different materials printed on the same part. More specifically,
printing the plastics over metals and woods. The differential
expansion and shrinking, and bonding. So, for example, suppose the
plastic was printed surrounding a metal or wood part. Would the
plastic crack as it cooled? And will it bond to the metal or wood? I
suppose the wood could be heated before the plastic is applied but how
long would it stay warm? I have seen machines with heated platens so
maybe the wood or metal object could be heated by the platen. But most
of the metal objects I have been thinking about surrounding with the
printed plastic are fasteners or stiffeners. They wouldn't be sitting
on the platen. So nuts held captive by the plastic are a good example.
And does the plastic need to bond to the metal for my application? I
don't know, but lets say it does. Is there some type of glue that
could be used that would make the hot plastic bond to the metal? For
lightness wood can be a very good material to combine with plastic to
make a strong part. I can envision a part that is plastic on the
outside to achieve a particular shape, like a handle, but with a wood
core for strength. And what about using a variety of plastics to make
an even better part? Say a luggage handle that is wood core surrounded
by a hard plastic contoured to fit the fingers with soft plastic in
the finger grooves. Can this be done with the materials available to
the average experimenter with a limited budget?
I know there are a lot of questions above and I appreciate any answers
from folks who know about this stuff. I want to experiment with 3D
printing and have some ideas but I have not been able to find much
info about the above questions from people who actually have
experience trying to do what I want to do.
Thanks,
Eric

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On Fri, 21 Feb 2014 18:26:31 -0800, wrote:

To all youse folks doin' tree dee printing-
I have been thinking about this technology recently and was wondering
about different materials printed on the same part. More specifically,
printing the plastics over metals and woods. The differential
expansion and shrinking, and bonding. So, for example, suppose the
plastic was printed surrounding a metal or wood part. Would the
plastic crack as it cooled? And will it bond to the metal or wood? I
suppose the wood could be heated before the plastic is applied but how
long would it stay warm? I have seen machines with heated platens so
maybe the wood or metal object could be heated by the platen. But most
of the metal objects I have been thinking about surrounding with the
printed plastic are fasteners or stiffeners. They wouldn't be sitting
on the platen. So nuts held captive by the plastic are a good example.
And does the plastic need to bond to the metal for my application? I
don't know, but lets say it does. Is there some type of glue that
could be used that would make the hot plastic bond to the metal? For
lightness wood can be a very good material to combine with plastic to
make a strong part. I can envision a part that is plastic on the
outside to achieve a particular shape, like a handle, but with a wood
core for strength. And what about using a variety of plastics to make
an even better part? Say a luggage handle that is wood core surrounded
by a hard plastic contoured to fit the fingers with soft plastic in
the finger grooves. Can this be done with the materials available to
the average experimenter with a limited budget?
I know there are a lot of questions above and I appreciate any answers
from folks who know about this stuff. I want to experiment with 3D
printing and have some ideas but I have not been able to find much
info about the above questions from people who actually have
experience trying to do what I want to do.

Interesting idea, Eric. I'm sure it's possible but have no idea how
to go about it with a 3DP.

Have you tried asking on some of the 3D printing blogs or forums?
You'd find extremely active experimenters there with all sorts of
printers and software types.

--
Cogito, ergo armatum sum.

(I think, therefore I am armed.)

On Fri, 21 Feb 2014 18:26:31 -0800 in rec.crafts.metalworking,
wrote,
To all youse folks doin' tree dee printing-
I have been thinking about this technology recently and was wondering
about different materials printed on the same part. More specifically,
printing the plastics over metals and woods. The differential
expansion and shrinking, and bonding.

The hot plastic certainly does shrink as it cools. If it didn't, it
might be permanently bonded to the print bed. One of the tricks to
master is getting it to stick enough to stay there until the print
is complete, in spite of shrinkage, but still be able to remove it
without damage.

So, for example, suppose the
plastic was printed surrounding a metal or wood part. Would the
plastic crack as it cooled?

Cracking, not so likely. Warping, more likely.

So nuts held captive by the plastic are a good example.

Captive nuts are easy. They don't even have to stick, just be
trapped in a matching cavity so they can't rotate. Put a Pause in
your G-code at the top of the cavity so you can place the nut before
it's filled over.

lightness wood can be a very good material to combine with plastic to
make a strong part. I can envision a part that is plastic on the
outside to achieve a particular shape, like a handle, but with a wood
core for strength.

Typical construction is plastic deposited solidly at the surface of
the part, with the inside filled with a network of threads to
achieve a specified percentage of infill to give the needed
combination of lightness and strength. But you could certainly use
a wood insert in some cases if you designed for it.

by a hard plastic contoured to fit the fingers with soft plastic in
the finger grooves.

Soft plastic is not common yet, but I saw some from adafruit.
You would probably have to make the parts separately and assemble
them.

On 22/02/14 02:26, wrote:
To all youse folks doin' tree dee printing-
I have been thinking about this technology recently and was wondering
about different materials printed on the same part. More specifically,
printing the plastics over metals and woods. The differential
expansion and shrinking, and bonding. So, for example, suppose the
plastic was printed surrounding a metal or wood part. Would the
plastic crack as it cooled? And will it bond to the metal or wood? I
suppose the wood could be heated before the plastic is applied but how
long would it stay warm? I have seen machines with heated platens so
maybe the wood or metal object could be heated by the platen. But most
of the metal objects I have been thinking about surrounding with the
printed plastic are fasteners or stiffeners. They wouldn't be sitting
on the platen. So nuts held captive by the plastic are a good example.
And does the plastic need to bond to the metal for my application? I
don't know, but lets say it does. Is there some type of glue that
could be used that would make the hot plastic bond to the metal? For
lightness wood can be a very good material to combine with plastic to
make a strong part. I can envision a part that is plastic on the
outside to achieve a particular shape, like a handle, but with a wood
core for strength. And what about using a variety of plastics to make
an even better part? Say a luggage handle that is wood core surrounded
by a hard plastic contoured to fit the fingers with soft plastic in
the finger grooves. Can this be done with the materials available to
the average experimenter with a limited budget?
I know there are a lot of questions above and I appreciate any answers
from folks who know about this stuff. I want to experiment with 3D
printing and have some ideas but I have not been able to find much
info about the above questions from people who actually have
experience trying to do what I want to do.
Thanks,
Eric

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Can't help with the subject but an impressive 3D printing project of a
full sized Aston Martin
http://www.independent.co.uk/life-st...internalSearch

On 02/22/2014 11:32 AM, David Harmon wrote:

Typical construction is plastic deposited solidly at the surface of
the part, with the inside filled with a network of threads to
achieve a specified percentage of infill to give the needed
combination of lightness and strength. But you could certainly use
a wood insert in some cases if you designed for it.

The local electronics parts store has one of the open frame Velleman
units on display, and it's always making one thing or another. From
looking at the thing, it's basically got a nozzle like a hot glue gun,
except it's fed with monofilament that is unwound from a spool as it is
needed. The nozzle apparatus is moved about with stepper motors in an
x-y fashion, bumping up a notch in z when one layer is done.

The deposition is too fine to see it being built, except for the head
moving about, but given enough time it certainly does make something.
They've also got a 3-D scanner that can scan an object to be printed,
but I don't know how well it could see into cavities.

Jon

On 2/21/2014 6:26 PM, wrote:
To all youse folks doin' tree dee printing-
I have been thinking about this technology recently and was wondering
about different materials printed on the same part. More specifically,
printing the plastics over metals and woods. The differential
expansion and shrinking, and bonding. So, for example, suppose the
plastic was printed surrounding a metal or wood part. Would the
plastic crack as it cooled? And will it bond to the metal or wood? I
suppose the wood could be heated before the plastic is applied but how
long would it stay warm? I have seen machines with heated platens so
maybe the wood or metal object could be heated by the platen. But most
of the metal objects I have been thinking about surrounding with the
printed plastic are fasteners or stiffeners. They wouldn't be sitting
on the platen. So nuts held captive by the plastic are a good example.
And does the plastic need to bond to the metal for my application? I
don't know, but lets say it does. Is there some type of glue that
could be used that would make the hot plastic bond to the metal? For
lightness wood can be a very good material to combine with plastic to
make a strong part. I can envision a part that is plastic on the
outside to achieve a particular shape, like a handle, but with a wood
core for strength. And what about using a variety of plastics to make
an even better part? Say a luggage handle that is wood core surrounded
by a hard plastic contoured to fit the fingers with soft plastic in
the finger grooves. Can this be done with the materials available to
the average experimenter with a limited budget?
I know there are a lot of questions above and I appreciate any answers
from folks who know about this stuff. I want to experiment with 3D
printing and have some ideas but I have not been able to find much
info about the above questions from people who actually have
experience trying to do what I want to do.
Thanks,
Eric

---
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Your metal part has to be the same temperature as the plastic. You need
to have some experience cleaning injection molding nozzles!

All molded plastic shrinks as it cools. This is how you are able to
remove plastic objects from a mold. Where plastic must be molded to
produce a hole, the hole must be tapered so the mold can be removed in
spite of the shrinking.

Wood would probably smoke at the temperature of molten plastic.

Paul

On 2/21/2014 6:26 PM, wrote:
To all youse folks doin' tree dee printing-
I have been thinking about this technology recently and was wondering
about different materials printed on the same part. More specifically,
printing the plastics over metals and woods. The differential
expansion and shrinking, and bonding. So, for example, suppose the
plastic was printed surrounding a metal or wood part. Would the
plastic crack as it cooled? And will it bond to the metal or wood? I
suppose the wood could be heated before the plastic is applied but how
long would it stay warm? I have seen machines with heated platens so
maybe the wood or metal object could be heated by the platen. But most
of the metal objects I have been thinking about surrounding with the
printed plastic are fasteners or stiffeners. They wouldn't be sitting
on the platen. So nuts held captive by the plastic are a good example.
And does the plastic need to bond to the metal for my application? I
don't know, but lets say it does. Is there some type of glue that
could be used that would make the hot plastic bond to the metal? For
lightness wood can be a very good material to combine with plastic to
make a strong part. I can envision a part that is plastic on the
outside to achieve a particular shape, like a handle, but with a wood
core for strength. And what about using a variety of plastics to make
an even better part? Say a luggage handle that is wood core surrounded
by a hard plastic contoured to fit the fingers with soft plastic in
the finger grooves. Can this be done with the materials available to
the average experimenter with a limited budget?
I know there are a lot of questions above and I appreciate any answers
from folks who know about this stuff. I want to experiment with 3D
printing and have some ideas but I have not been able to find much
info about the above questions from people who actually have
experience trying to do what I want to do.
Thanks,
Eric

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

Your metal part has to be the same temperature as the plastic. You need
to have some experience cleaning injection molding nozzles!

All molded plastic shrinks as it cools. This is how you are able to
remove plastic objects from a mold. Where plastic must be molded to
produce a hole, the hole must be tapered so the mold can be removed in
spite of the shrinking.

Wood would probably smoke at the temperature of molten plastic.

Paul

On 2/21/2014 6:26 PM, wrote:
To all youse folks doin' tree dee printing-
I have been thinking about this technology recently and was wondering
about different materials printed on the same part. More specifically,
printing the plastics over metals and woods. The differential
expansion and shrinking, and bonding. So, for example, suppose the
plastic was printed surrounding a metal or wood part. Would the
plastic crack as it cooled? And will it bond to the metal or wood? I
suppose the wood could be heated before the plastic is applied but how
long would it stay warm? I have seen machines with heated platens so
maybe the wood or metal object could be heated by the platen. But most
of the metal objects I have been thinking about surrounding with the
printed plastic are fasteners or stiffeners. They wouldn't be sitting
on the platen. So nuts held captive by the plastic are a good example.
And does the plastic need to bond to the metal for my application? I
don't know, but lets say it does. Is there some type of glue that
could be used that would make the hot plastic bond to the metal? For
lightness wood can be a very good material to combine with plastic to
make a strong part. I can envision a part that is plastic on the
outside to achieve a particular shape, like a handle, but with a wood
core for strength. And what about using a variety of plastics to make
an even better part? Say a luggage handle that is wood core surrounded
by a hard plastic contoured to fit the fingers with soft plastic in
the finger grooves. Can this be done with the materials available to
the average experimenter with a limited budget?
I know there are a lot of questions above and I appreciate any answers
from folks who know about this stuff. I want to experiment with 3D
printing and have some ideas but I have not been able to find much
info about the above questions from people who actually have
experience trying to do what I want to do.
Thanks,
Eric

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

Your metal part has to be the same temperature as the plastic. You need
to have some experience cleaning injection molding nozzles!

All molded plastic shrinks as it cools. This is how you are able to
remove plastic objects from a mold. Where plastic must be molded to
produce a hole, the hole must be tapered so the mold can be removed in
spite of the shrinking.

Wood would probably smoke at the temperature of molten plastic.

Paul