Hello,

New to tig welding, and been trying to do some mild steel welding.
However, the tungsten keeps melting into a ball before it gets hot
enough to weld. I have Dynasty 200DX running on 230VAC 50amp circuit
with the CoolMate 3 and DiamondBack Torch. Welding 1/16" mild steel
with DCEN. The Argon flow rate is around 15 at 20psi. The AMP meter on
the Dynasty only reads 20-30amp before the Tungsten melts. The
CoolMate is hooked up correctly, and the torch does not get hot.

Any recommendations on how to fix this problem? I read the TIG
Handbook, and believe am welding correctly.

Thanks,

Luds

On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 19:30:57 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Hello,

New to tig welding, and been trying to do some mild steel welding.
However, the tungsten keeps melting into a ball before it gets hot
enough to weld. I have Dynasty 200DX running on 230VAC 50amp circuit
with the CoolMate 3 and DiamondBack Torch. Welding 1/16" mild steel
with DCEN. The Argon flow rate is around 15 at 20psi. The AMP meter on
the Dynasty only reads 20-30amp before the Tungsten melts. The
CoolMate is hooked up correctly, and the torch does not get hot.

Any recommendations on how to fix this problem? I read the TIG
Handbook, and believe am welding correctly.

Try setting the machine for DCEP. If that works, you've got the torch
and ground connections switched. A less likely scenario is the
welder's internal wiring is reversed, or it's outputting AC instead of
DC.

--
Ned Simmons

On Mar 22, 10:46 pm, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 19:30:57 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
Hello,

New to tig welding, and been trying to do some mild steel welding.
However, the tungsten keeps melting into a ball before it gets hot
enough to weld. I have Dynasty 200DX running on 230VAC 50amp circuit
with the CoolMate 3 and DiamondBack Torch. Welding 1/16" mild steel
with DCEN. The Argon flow rate is around 15 at 20psi. The AMP meter on
the Dynasty only reads 20-30amp before the Tungsten melts. The
CoolMate is hooked up correctly, and the torch does not get hot.

Any recommendations on how to fix this problem? I read the TIG
Handbook, and believe am welding correctly.

Try setting the machine for DCEP. If that works, you've got the torch
and ground connections switched. A less likely scenario is the
welder's internal wiring is reversed, or it's outputting AC instead of
DC.

--
Ned Simmons


I'll try the DCEP tomorrow. I checked the ground and torch connections
and they match the manual. How would I check the welder's internal
wiring?

Thanks,

Dave

That should work fine. Sounds like the machine is wired backwards or
your
lead connections are reversed.
What tungsten?
RichD

Dave,
I was going to say put a DC meter on it, but the high voltage high
frequency
won't do it or you any good unless you can turn it off.
The symtoms are definetly DCEP especially at such a low amperage.
RichD

On Mar 22, 10:56 pm, RichD wrote:
That should work fine. Sounds like the machine is wired backwards or
your
lead connections are reversed.
What tungsten?
RichD

The Tungsten rod has an Orange tip so it should be Cerium. How can the
machine be wired backwards? I have followed the instructions for the
plug with black and white wires to the AC lines, and the green to the
ground or white wire. The electrode connections are correct in front
of the unit. Ground is plugged into the ground terminal, and the torch
is plugged into the electrode weld output. Should I call Miller for
assistance? I've never been able to weld with this unit yet, but this
is the first time I have tried TIG welding.

Thanks!

Luds

On Mar 22, 11:08 pm, wrote:
On Mar 22, 10:56 pm, RichD wrote:

That should work fine. Sounds like the machine is wired backwards or
your
lead connections are reversed.
What tungsten?
RichD

The Tungsten rod has an Orange tip so it should be Cerium. How can the
machine be wired backwards? I have followed the instructions for the
plug with black and white wires to the AC lines, and the green to the
ground or white wire. The electrode connections are correct in front
of the unit. Ground is plugged into the ground terminal, and the torch
is plugged into the electrode weld output. Should I call Miller for
assistance? I've never been able to weld with this unit yet, but this
is the first time I have tried TIG welding.

Thanks!

Luds


The Dynasty has a Polarity Control with two settings. One for DC and
one for AC. I selected the default DC. The manual states "Machine is
set to DCEN (direct current electrode negative) for TIG weldign, and
to DCEP (direct current electrode positive) for Stick welding. I
selected DC, but how do I know if Stick or TIG is selected? I assumed
TIG is default.

Thanks,

Luds

On Mar 22, 11:08 pm, wrote:
On Mar 22, 10:56 pm, RichD wrote:

That should work fine. Sounds like the machine is wired backwards or
your
lead connections are reversed.
What tungsten?
RichD

The Tungsten rod has an Orange tip so it should be Cerium. How can the
machine be wired backwards? I have followed the instructions for the
plug with black and white wires to the AC lines, and the green to the
ground or white wire. The electrode connections are correct in front
of the unit. Ground is plugged into the ground terminal, and the torch
is plugged into the electrode weld output. Should I call Miller for
assistance? I've never been able to weld with this unit yet, but this
is the first time I have tried TIG welding.

Thanks!

Luds


I have the Process Control set to TIG HF Impulse so this should
provide DCEN.

Are you SURE the argon is on and the bottle HAS argon in it?
Can you hear the gas blowing at the torch when you push the pedal
down?
NO argon = a mess when trying to TIG weld.
Richd

On Sun, 23 Mar 2008 08:26:31 -0700 (PDT), RichD
wrote:

Are you SURE the argon is on and the bottle HAS argon in it?
Can you hear the gas blowing at the torch when you push the pedal
down?
NO argon = a mess when trying to TIG weld.

Definitely check the gas flow, though the original description "the
tungsten keeps melting into a ball" is more consistent with incorrect
polarity. Without gas the tungsten will erode irregularly in a
blackened mess.

As Rich says, don't check polarity with a meter unless you're sure the
hi-freq is off.

I'm not familiar with this machine, but it sounds as though polarity
is determined by the machine based on the setting of a process
selector switch? In that case, try setting the machine for stick
welding DCEN (straight polarity). If you still melt the tungsten, try
DCEP. Presumably that will disable the hi-freq start, but you can
still scratch start, and perhaps get some clues as to what's going on.

--
Ned Simmons

On Mar 23, 12:01 pm, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Sun, 23 Mar 2008 08:26:31 -0700 (PDT), RichD

wrote:
Are you SURE the argon is on and the bottle HAS argon in it?
Can you hear the gas blowing at the torch when you push the pedal
down?
NO argon = a mess when trying to TIG weld.

Definitely check the gas flow, though the original description "the
tungsten keeps melting into a ball" is more consistent with incorrect
polarity. Without gas the tungsten will erode irregularly in a
blackened mess.

As Rich says, don't check polarity with a meter unless you're sure the
hi-freq is off.

I'm not familiar with this machine, but it sounds as though polarity
is determined by the machine based on the setting of a process
selector switch? In that case, try setting the machine for stick
welding DCEN (straight polarity). If you still melt the tungsten, try
DCEP. Presumably that will disable the hi-freq start, but you can
still scratch start, and perhaps get some clues as to what's going on.

--
Ned Simmons

I check the electrode voltage and its negative 16VDC. The maximum Amp
set is 70. The diameter of the electrode is 3/32. Am I just using too
small of an electrode. The sheet metal thickness is roughly 0.065.
Argon is flowing with a 7 second post setting.

Thanks,

Luds

On Sun, 23 Mar 2008 15:44:05 -0700 (PDT), wrote:


I check the electrode voltage and its negative 16VDC. The maximum Amp
set is 70.

Under what conditions? 16V is very low. I'd expect to see 60V to 80V
open circuit, perhaps 30V while current is flowing.

The diameter of the electrode is 3/32. Am I just using too
small of an electrode. The sheet metal thickness is roughly 0.065.
Argon is flowing with a 7 second post setting.

1/16 is the right tungsten. 3/32 is too big.

--
Ned Simmons

On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 19:30:57 -0700, daluds wrote:

Hello,

New to tig welding, and been trying to do some mild steel welding.
However, the tungsten keeps melting into a ball before it gets hot
enough to weld. I have Dynasty 200DX running on 230VAC 50amp circuit
with the CoolMate 3 and DiamondBack Torch. Welding 1/16" mild steel
with DCEN. The Argon flow rate is around 15 at 20psi. The AMP meter on
the Dynasty only reads 20-30amp before the Tungsten melts. The
CoolMate is hooked up correctly, and the torch does not get hot.

Any recommendations on how to fix this problem? I read the TIG
Handbook, and believe am welding correctly.

Thanks,

Luds

http://www.millerwelds.com/education...tips/TIG_tips/

Luds,
OK, I think I see your problem. That small of electrode can only
handle very
small current. Too small for 1/16 steel sheet.
I hate to disagree with Ned, but a 1/16" tungsten is awfully small.
For most work the 3/32 size thoriated or cerium is best.
Keep it well sharpened to a point for welding steel. About 30* is
fine.
Anytime you are melting the tungsten, the current is way to high for
that size.
For welding aluminum, use pure (green) tungsten. Form the ball on a
blunt end.
Typically 1 size larger than steel.
I am a student at a Tech College, but have been welding for many
years.
Owner Miller Syncrowave 250.
RichD

On Sun, 23 Mar 2008 17:26:03 -0700 (PDT), RichD
wrote:

Luds,
OK, I think I see your problem. That small of electrode can only
handle very
small current. Too small for 1/16 steel sheet.
I hate to disagree with Ned, but a 1/16" tungsten is awfully small.
For most work the 3/32 size thoriated or cerium is best.

No harm in disagreeing, but you're way off here. A 1/16 thoriated
tungsten is good to well over 100A on DC, at least twice what's
necessary for welding 16 gauge steel. For stock thinner than 16 gauge,
I'd be thinking about switching to a .040 tungsten.

There's a chart on this page:
http://www.thefabricator.com/Aluminu...cle.cfm?ID=527

Keep it well sharpened to a point for welding steel. About 30* is
fine.
Anytime you are melting the tungsten, the current is way to high for
that size.
For welding aluminum, use pure (green) tungsten. Form the ball on a
blunt end.
Typically 1 size larger than steel.

Better go at least two sizes larger if you're using pure tungsten.

I am a student at a Tech College, but have been welding for many
years.

I made my living TIG welding for many years.

--
Ned Simmons

On Sun, 23 Mar 2008 17:26:03 -0700 (PDT), RichD
wrote:

Luds,
OK, I think I see your problem. That small of electrode can only
handle very
small current. Too small for 1/16 steel sheet.
I hate to disagree with Ned, but a 1/16" tungsten is awfully small.
For most work the 3/32 size thoriated or cerium is best.
Keep it well sharpened to a point for welding steel. About 30* is
fine.
Anytime you are melting the tungsten, the current is way to high for
that size.
For welding aluminum, use pure (green) tungsten. Form the ball on a
blunt end.
Typically 1 size larger than steel.
I am a student at a Tech College, but have been welding for many
years.
Owner Miller Syncrowave 250.
RichD

I'd say try a different tungsten.

I did some welding last week on 3/16" steel using a 3/32" lanthanated
tungsten, running well over 150 amps to "get 'er going" because I
wanted to be done in 15 seconds and quench before the heat got to
plastic about 1.5" distant. No problems at all with the tungsten.
(No problems with the plastic either.)

Miller Dialarc 250 HF, DCEN.

I like zirconiated tungestens much better than pure tungsten for AC on
ally.

Hello,

The electrode I have been using is a 3/32" 2% Thoriated. Do you think
the Dynasty 200 DX unit is malfunctioning? Here are the specifics:

Input power is Single Phase 220VAC on 50Amp circuit (Upgraded from
30Amp circuit)
DC Polority
Measured -16VDC with the DCEN process
Argon Gas
Verified plug wiring.
Verified torch and ground connections
Diamondback torch
Coolmate 3
Peak A set to 70.

Thanks!

On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 19:29:08 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Hello,

The electrode I have been using is a 3/32" 2% Thoriated. Do you think
the Dynasty 200 DX unit is malfunctioning? Here are the specifics:

Input power is Single Phase 220VAC on 50Amp circuit (Upgraded from
30Amp circuit)
DC Polority
Measured -16VDC with the DCEN process
Argon Gas
Verified plug wiring.
Verified torch and ground connections
Diamondback torch
Coolmate 3
Peak A set to 70.

Thanks!

It's certainly possible that your machine isn't working right. 16
volts sounds quite low even with an arc running and way low for open
circuit voltage. That sounds more like a MIG machine at a low
setting.

Thanks for all the help! Finally figured out the problem! The Dynasty
200 DX machine works great. The only problem was the guy holding the
torch. With some lessons from a very experienced professional all is
working. The most significant problem was the incorrect face shield
for the job. Its so much different than MIG or ARC welding. Plan to
buy new face shield with fixed gold shade of 11 with magnifier
followed by more hands on practicing.

Luds

On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 19:06:34 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Thanks for all the help! Finally figured out the problem! The Dynasty
200 DX machine works great. The only problem was the guy holding the
torch. With some lessons from a very experienced professional all is
working. The most significant problem was the incorrect face shield
for the job. Its so much different than MIG or ARC welding. Plan to
buy new face shield with fixed gold shade of 11 with magnifier
followed by more hands on practicing.

Luds

IOW the whole problem was a loose nut behind the torch.

Been there, Done that, Have the book, Saw the movie, the book was
better, the movie was totally mis-cast...

-- Bruce --

On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 19:06:34 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Thanks for all the help! Finally figured out the problem! The Dynasty
200 DX machine works great. The only problem was the guy holding the
torch. With some lessons from a very experienced professional all is
working. The most significant problem was the incorrect face shield
for the job. Its so much different than MIG or ARC welding. Plan to
buy new face shield with fixed gold shade of 11 with magnifier
followed by more hands on practicing.

Luds

The best investment by far you can make at this point is an autodark
welding mask.

Gunner can recommend best buys.

I've been welding for decades now, did plenty of it by head-nodding.
Then I got an autodark. If my Jackson autodark crapped out,
replacing it would be high priority.

On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 01:35:21 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 19:06:34 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Thanks for all the help! Finally figured out the problem! The Dynasty
200 DX machine works great. The only problem was the guy holding the
torch. With some lessons from a very experienced professional all is
working. The most significant problem was the incorrect face shield
for the job. Its so much different than MIG or ARC welding. Plan to
buy new face shield with fixed gold shade of 11 with magnifier
followed by more hands on practicing.

Luds

The best investment by far you can make at this point is an autodark
welding mask.

Gunner can recommend best buys.

I've been welding for decades now, did plenty of it by head-nodding.
Then I got an autodark. If my Jackson autodark crapped out,
replacing it would be high priority.


And since you have the Dynasty 200DX, might as well spring for the
Jackson. I've got some projects lined up for mine, now that it's
warming up.

Pete Keillor

On Mar 27, 7:12 am, Pete Keillor wrote:
On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 01:35:21 -0600, Don Foreman



wrote:
On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 19:06:34 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Thanks for all the help! Finally figured out the problem! The Dynasty
200 DX machine works great. The only problem was the guy holding the
torch. With some lessons from a very experienced professional all is
working. The most significant problem was the incorrect face shield
for the job. Its so much different than MIG or ARC welding. Plan to
buy new face shield with fixed gold shade of 11 with magnifier
followed by more hands on practicing.

Luds

The best investment by far you can make at this point is an autodark
welding mask.

Gunner can recommend best buys.

I've been welding for decades now, did plenty of it by head-nodding.
Then I got an autodark. If my Jackson autodark crapped out,
replacing it would be high priority.

And since you have the Dynasty 200DX, might as well spring for the
Jackson. I've got some projects lined up for mine, now that it's
warming up.

Pete Keillor


The recommendation was to purchase a Jackson adjustable head gear with
"shorty face shield", leather bib, fixed gold shade #11 and +2.25
magnifier. However, I haven't been able to find anywhere to buy such a
creation. Any ideas where? The instructor has used the same helmet for
years, and no longer knows where to buy them. I suspect its been
replaced by the auto dimming helmets. Any recommendations on where to
purchase such a creation? The auto dimming helmet I have now is not
sensitive enough to use with TIG. The Speedglas 9002X states it will
support low amp TIG.

Thanks

Luds

wrote:

On Mar 27, 7:12 am, Pete Keillor wrote:

On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 01:35:21 -0600, Don Foreman



wrote:

On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 19:06:34 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Thanks for all the help! Finally figured out the problem! The Dynasty
200 DX machine works great. The only problem was the guy holding the
torch. With some lessons from a very experienced professional all is
working. The most significant problem was the incorrect face shield
for the job. Its so much different than MIG or ARC welding. Plan to
buy new face shield with fixed gold shade of 11 with magnifier
followed by more hands on practicing.

Luds

The best investment by far you can make at this point is an autodark
welding mask.

Gunner can recommend best buys.

I've been welding for decades now, did plenty of it by head-nodding.
Then I got an autodark. If my Jackson autodark crapped out,
replacing it would be high priority.

And since you have the Dynasty 200DX, might as well spring for the
Jackson. I've got some projects lined up for mine, now that it's
warming up.

Pete Keillor



The recommendation was to purchase a Jackson adjustable head gear with
"shorty face shield", leather bib, fixed gold shade #11 and +2.25
magnifier. However, I haven't been able to find anywhere to buy such a
creation. Any ideas where? The instructor has used the same helmet for
years, and no longer knows where to buy them. I suspect its been
replaced by the auto dimming helmets. Any recommendations on where to
purchase such a creation? The auto dimming helmet I have now is not
sensitive enough to use with TIG. The Speedglas 9002X states it will
support low amp TIG.

Thanks

Luds


You can always put a supplemental lens behind the autodimmer.

Jim

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 01:13:40 GMT, Jim Chandler wrote:

wrote:

On Mar 27, 7:12 am, Pete Keillor wrote:

On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 01:35:21 -0600, Don Foreman



wrote:

On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 19:06:34 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Thanks for all the help! Finally figured out the problem! The Dynasty
200 DX machine works great. The only problem was the guy holding the
torch. With some lessons from a very experienced professional all is
working. The most significant problem was the incorrect face shield
for the job. Its so much different than MIG or ARC welding. Plan to
buy new face shield with fixed gold shade of 11 with magnifier
followed by more hands on practicing.

Luds

The best investment by far you can make at this point is an autodark
welding mask.

Gunner can recommend best buys.

I've been welding for decades now, did plenty of it by head-nodding.
Then I got an autodark. If my Jackson autodark crapped out,
replacing it would be high priority.

And since you have the Dynasty 200DX, might as well spring for the
Jackson. I've got some projects lined up for mine, now that it's
warming up.

Pete Keillor



The recommendation was to purchase a Jackson adjustable head gear with
"shorty face shield", leather bib, fixed gold shade #11 and +2.25
magnifier. However, I haven't been able to find anywhere to buy such a
creation. Any ideas where? The instructor has used the same helmet for
years, and no longer knows where to buy them. I suspect its been
replaced by the auto dimming helmets. Any recommendations on where to
purchase such a creation? The auto dimming helmet I have now is not
sensitive enough to use with TIG. The Speedglas 9002X states it will
support low amp TIG.

Thanks

Luds


You can always put a supplemental lens behind the autodimmer.

Jim

I got my Nexgen EQC at the local Airgas. I like it. Ernie Leimkuhler
on sci.engr.joining.welding recommends the Huntsman 951P hood with the
Nexgen EQC lens.

Pete Keillor

On Fri, 28 Mar 2008 16:52:11 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Mar 27, 7:12 am, Pete Keillor wrote:
On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 01:35:21 -0600, Don Foreman



wrote:
On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 19:06:34 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Thanks for all the help! Finally figured out the problem! The Dynasty
200 DX machine works great. The only problem was the guy holding the
torch. With some lessons from a very experienced professional all is
working. The most significant problem was the incorrect face shield
for the job. Its so much different than MIG or ARC welding. Plan to
buy new face shield with fixed gold shade of 11 with magnifier
followed by more hands on practicing.

Luds

The best investment by far you can make at this point is an autodark
welding mask.

Gunner can recommend best buys.

I've been welding for decades now, did plenty of it by head-nodding.
Then I got an autodark. If my Jackson autodark crapped out,
replacing it would be high priority.

And since you have the Dynasty 200DX, might as well spring for the
Jackson. I've got some projects lined up for mine, now that it's
warming up.

Pete Keillor


The recommendation was to purchase a Jackson adjustable head gear with
"shorty face shield", leather bib, fixed gold shade #11 and +2.25
magnifier. However, I haven't been able to find anywhere to buy such a
creation. Any ideas where? The instructor has used the same helmet for
years, and no longer knows where to buy them. I suspect its been
replaced by the auto dimming helmets. Any recommendations on where to
purchase such a creation? The auto dimming helmet I have now is not
sensitive enough to use with TIG. The Speedglas 9002X states it will
support low amp TIG.

Thanks

Luds

Jackson and Speedglass both offer good products. But wait for
Gunner to check in on this. Harbor Freight offers several autodarks,
some of which are undoubtedly crap but several have found one or two
of them to be quite acceptable.

I have a Jackson EQC bought years ago. I had occasion to try another
guy's Jackson NextGen. I didn't like it as well as the EQC and
wouldn't trade.

Variable shade is important with TIG if you'll use a range of welding
currents. Ya can't weld well if ya can't see the puddle, and ya
can't see the puddle if it is either too bright or too dark.

Bought an inexpensive helmet from Lowe's and put in a gold #11 and
+2.25 magnifier to get me going. Finally can see what I am doing. I'll
look for a better helmet option later, but wanted to get some
practicing in with the new lenses. What a difference. I was able to
weld some Aluminum with AC process today with great success after some
practice.

Thanks for the help!

Luds

In article
,
wrote:

Bought an inexpensive helmet from Lowe's and put in a gold #11 and
+2.25 magnifier to get me going. Finally can see what I am doing. I'll
look for a better helmet option later, but wanted to get some
practicing in with the new lenses. What a difference. I was able to
weld some Aluminum with AC process today with great success after some
practice.

Thanks for the help!

Luds

If you want better visibility with a standard lens welding hood, just
buy a $10 quartz, 300 watt, flood/work light at a hardware store.

Just point it at your work and you will be able to see when you aren't
welding.

On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 03:56:36 -0700, Ernie Leimkuhler
wrote:

In article
,
wrote:

Bought an inexpensive helmet from Lowe's and put in a gold #11 and
+2.25 magnifier to get me going. Finally can see what I am doing. I'll
look for a better helmet option later, but wanted to get some
practicing in with the new lenses. What a difference. I was able to
weld some Aluminum with AC process today with great success after some
practice.

Thanks for the help!

Luds

If you want better visibility with a standard lens welding hood, just
buy a $10 quartz, 300 watt, flood/work light at a hardware store.

Just point it at your work and you will be able to see when you aren't
welding.


Ernie recommended this some years ago, and thats exactly what I did.

Works a treat!!

Gunner



"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner