Sorry if this shows up twice (or three). I suspect my isp's news
server ate it (pretty sure it's receiving but ain't sending).

Pete
=========================================

I built this flush kit clamp to get a handle on the flush kit for my
Yamaha outboard. I cracked the cartilage in my ribs for the second
time recently because my boat is in a lift at a marina, and I can't
reach the lower unit exceptby stretching over the transom. Needless to
say, I'm not as young anymore.

This was made out of 3/4" 2024 aluminum. The thumbscrews are
stainless, and the threads in the aluminum are helicoiled. Included
are photos labelled

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/FlushKitClamp00.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/FlushKitClamp01.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/FlushKitClamp02.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/FlushKitClamp03.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/FlushKitClamp04.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/FlushKitClamp05.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/FlushKitClamp06.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/FlushKitClamp07.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/FlushKitClamp08.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/FlushKitClamp09.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/FlushKitClamp10.jpg

Hopefully, with a fiberglass extension handle and this clamp, I can
position theflush kit without busting anything else.

Regards,

Pete Keillor

On 20 Mar 2005 17:47:15 -0800, the inscrutable "Pete K."
spake:

This was made out of 3/4" 2024 aluminum. The thumbscrews are
stainless, and the threads in the aluminum are helicoiled.

Could you explain the 3/4 x 4ish threadmaking for me?

That's a nice little fitting. Did you also make the SS thumbscrews?

---
After they make styrofoam, what do they ship it in? --Steven Wright
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development

On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 05:56:59 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On 20 Mar 2005 17:47:15 -0800, the inscrutable "Pete K."
spake:

This was made out of 3/4" 2024 aluminum. The thumbscrews are
stainless, and the threads in the aluminum are helicoiled.

Could you explain the 3/4 x 4ish threadmaking for me?

That's a nice little fitting. Did you also make the SS thumbscrews?

---
After they make styrofoam, what do they ship it in? --Steven Wright
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development

I bought the thumbscrews from McMaster-Carr. I'm going to need this
thing Friday (spring break in Texas).

I set up to thread for the mop handle (3/4" 5tpi, sort of acme thread
form) by drilling then boring deep enough for the threads plus the end
of the threading boring bar. I used one of the solid carbide insert
boring bars for the plain boring (Photo 01). Pretty neat tool.

I then ground a bit to fit the 5tpi acme specs, using an acme thread
gage. Since there was no way I wanted to thread into a blind hole at
5tpi, even in back gear, I set the threading bar up on the back side
of the hole (like in Photo 02), and ran the lathe in reverse. This
causes the threading to proceed from left to right, or out of the
hole, for a right handed thread.

Otherwise, the only thing a little different was I had to swap from
the 24 tooth to 48 tooth stud gear, which is required on my 11"x24"
Delta to cut 4 through 7 tpi threads. When I was done, the mop handle
wouldn't fit because of the rounded thread form. I then opened the
minor diameter a little and ground a bit to break the edges of the
thread. I had to pick up the thread because I had removed the boring
bar, but I just set the threading dial, then moved the bar in and out
until it was centered in the thread, then tightened the boring bar
clamp screws.

Threading is fun. The trick of running in reverse for internal
threads is a good one. I think I read it here.

Regards,

Pete Keillor

I bought the thumbscrews from McMaster-Carr. I'm going to need this
thing Friday (spring break in Texas).

I set up to thread for the mop handle (3/4" 5tpi, sort of acme thread
form) by drilling then boring deep enough for the threads plus the end
of the threading boring bar. I used one of the solid carbide insert
boring bars for the plain boring (Photo 01). Pretty neat tool.

I then ground a bit to fit the 5tpi acme specs, using an acme thread
gage. Since there was no way I wanted to thread into a blind hole at
5tpi, even in back gear, I set the threading bar up on the back side of
the hole (like in Photo 02), and ran the lathe in reverse. This causes
the threading to proceed from left to right, or out of the hole, for a
right handed thread.

Otherwise, the only thing a little different was I had to swap from the
24 tooth to 48 tooth stud gear, which is required on my 11"x24" Delta
to cut 4 through 7 tpi threads. When I was done, the mop handle
wouldn't fit because of the rounded thread form. I then opened the
minor diameter a little and ground a bit to break the edges of the
thread. I had to pick up the thread because I had removed the boring
bar, but I just set the threading dial, then moved the bar in and out
until it was centered in the thread, then tightened the boring bar
clamp screws.

Threading is fun. The trick of running in reverse for internal threads
is a good one. I think I read it here.

Regards,

Pete Keillor