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Peter T. Keillor III
 
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Default How to balance plate mounted grinding wheels?

How do you true up one of the 6" plate mounted wheels? Just nudge it
around until it looks good, tighten up the screws and try it, or is
there a more systematic way?

I got a Rockwell pedestal tool grinder off ebay, and want to mount a
new aluminum oxide wheel on it. It has one fair silicon carbide wheel
and one completely clapped out wheel which still says Rockwell on the
mounting plate. Sure runs better than the plastic housing Sear the
previous homeowner left which vibrates like a boxcar shaker. This
isn't a gloat, I probably paid too much for it. I could have got one
of the imports for a little less, but I like old American.

Thanks.

Pete Keillor
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Terry Collins
 
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"Peter T. Keillor III" wrote:

How do you true up one of the 6" plate mounted wheels? Just nudge it
around until it looks good, tighten up the screws and try it, or is
there a more systematic way?


No idea of the official way, but the way I centre stuff in a lathe is
.... and this should work for a grinding wheel.

Using the rest, find the part that is most out, then turn the wheel 180
degree and measure the difference, then go back and nudge for half the
distance. Repeat ad nauseum.
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Bugs
 
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If there is any difference in the mounting arbor and the wheel
diameter, you need a bushing to center it. My welding supply sold
plastic ones in all different sizes. Just clamping it beyween mounting
plates is an accident waiting to happen.
Bugs

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Charles A. Sherwood
 
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How do you true up one of the 6" plate mounted wheels? Just nudge it

The center hole in the plate should be a very close fit on the mounting
hub. When I installed new wheels on my baldor carbide grinder, I trued
the outside, inside and flat face of the wheel to make them run smooth.
When I remove the wheel (which is seldom) I make sure that I mark the
wheel so I can get in on in the same place. You only have 4 choices
because there are 4 mounting screws.

My diamond wheel is mounted with flat head screws, so the counter
sunk head center it well. Most of the wheel is metal anyway so
there is very little runout.

chuck
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Grant Erwin
 
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Default

http://www.baldor.com/downloads/manu...ds/905-903.pdf



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Daniel A. Mitchell
 
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Default

Terry Collins wrote:

"Peter T. Keillor III" wrote:

How do you true up one of the 6" plate mounted wheels? Just nudge it
around until it looks good, tighten up the screws and try it, or is
there a more systematic way?



No idea of the official way, but the way I centre stuff in a lathe is
... and this should work for a grinding wheel.

Using the rest, find the part that is most out, then turn the wheel 180
degree and measure the difference, then go back and nudge for half the
distance. Repeat ad nauseum.


On my plate-wheeled tool grinder (Harbor Freight) the shouldered bolts
that hold the plates don't give a lot of 'nudge' room ... the location
of the wheel is pretty much set. There's normally a second, unused, set
of holes in the plate and hub (four for holding the wheel, four smaller
and unused). I use these secondary holes to hold balancing screws.

For a NEW wheel (rarely either round or balanced), I determine, on a
static post balancer, which side of the wheel is heavy, and by about how
much, mark it, then add a similar screw-weight to the opposite side of
the plate when I mount it. Some trial and error with the balancing
weight may be needed. Once mounted, and running reasonably smooth, you
need to true the wheel with a dresser (diamond, stick, whatever). This
may well change the balance ... the two properties (round and balanced)
interact. If it still runs smooth, you're done. If not, take the trued
wheel off and rebalance it, then try again. It rarely takes more than
one remount to get the wheel both trued up and reasonably balanced. My
wheels locate precisely enough that only very minor truing is needed
when they are removed and reinstalled.

Dan Mitchell
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