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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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How to balance plate mounted grinding wheels?
How do you true up one of the 6" plate mounted wheels? Just nudge it
around until it looks good, tighten up the screws and try it, or is there a more systematic way? I got a Rockwell pedestal tool grinder off ebay, and want to mount a new aluminum oxide wheel on it. It has one fair silicon carbide wheel and one completely clapped out wheel which still says Rockwell on the mounting plate. Sure runs better than the plastic housing Sear the previous homeowner left which vibrates like a boxcar shaker. This isn't a gloat, I probably paid too much for it. I could have got one of the imports for a little less, but I like old American. Thanks. Pete Keillor |
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"Peter T. Keillor III" wrote:
How do you true up one of the 6" plate mounted wheels? Just nudge it around until it looks good, tighten up the screws and try it, or is there a more systematic way? No idea of the official way, but the way I centre stuff in a lathe is .... and this should work for a grinding wheel. Using the rest, find the part that is most out, then turn the wheel 180 degree and measure the difference, then go back and nudge for half the distance. Repeat ad nauseum. |
#3
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If there is any difference in the mounting arbor and the wheel
diameter, you need a bushing to center it. My welding supply sold plastic ones in all different sizes. Just clamping it beyween mounting plates is an accident waiting to happen. Bugs |
#4
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How do you true up one of the 6" plate mounted wheels? Just nudge it
The center hole in the plate should be a very close fit on the mounting hub. When I installed new wheels on my baldor carbide grinder, I trued the outside, inside and flat face of the wheel to make them run smooth. When I remove the wheel (which is seldom) I make sure that I mark the wheel so I can get in on in the same place. You only have 4 choices because there are 4 mounting screws. My diamond wheel is mounted with flat head screws, so the counter sunk head center it well. Most of the wheel is metal anyway so there is very little runout. chuck |
#6
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Terry Collins wrote:
"Peter T. Keillor III" wrote: How do you true up one of the 6" plate mounted wheels? Just nudge it around until it looks good, tighten up the screws and try it, or is there a more systematic way? No idea of the official way, but the way I centre stuff in a lathe is ... and this should work for a grinding wheel. Using the rest, find the part that is most out, then turn the wheel 180 degree and measure the difference, then go back and nudge for half the distance. Repeat ad nauseum. On my plate-wheeled tool grinder (Harbor Freight) the shouldered bolts that hold the plates don't give a lot of 'nudge' room ... the location of the wheel is pretty much set. There's normally a second, unused, set of holes in the plate and hub (four for holding the wheel, four smaller and unused). I use these secondary holes to hold balancing screws. For a NEW wheel (rarely either round or balanced), I determine, on a static post balancer, which side of the wheel is heavy, and by about how much, mark it, then add a similar screw-weight to the opposite side of the plate when I mount it. Some trial and error with the balancing weight may be needed. Once mounted, and running reasonably smooth, you need to true the wheel with a dresser (diamond, stick, whatever). This may well change the balance ... the two properties (round and balanced) interact. If it still runs smooth, you're done. If not, take the trued wheel off and rebalance it, then try again. It rarely takes more than one remount to get the wheel both trued up and reasonably balanced. My wheels locate precisely enough that only very minor truing is needed when they are removed and reinstalled. Dan Mitchell ============ |
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