I am designing a radiator for a model engine.
Keep in mind that looks are more important than function.

The entire radiator (fins, tubes, manifold) will be made
from Stainless steel. The radiator will be about 5 inchs
square and 1/2 inch thick. There will be 4-5 tubes running
from top to bottom. I will press the 1/4 inch tubes through
60 pieces of .036 SS fins spaced about 40 thou apart.
I figure I will press the fins onto the tubes one at a time.

My problem is connecting the tubes to a manifold. Silver solder
might work but I'm not particularly good at it and I am very concerned
that the heat will tarnish the SS and I will not be able to polish
it after its assemebled. I am also concerned that 1250 degrees
will distort things and maybe cause problems.

I am wondering if I can use O rings to seal the tubes where they
enter the manifold. The manifold will be a square block of SS
drilled from the end for coolant passage and drilled from the side
for the tubes. The difficult part is cutting O-ring groves
for the 1/4 inch tubes.

First; Will this work? ie NOT leak. The cooling system will not
be pressurized but there will be some pressure from the circulating
pump.

Second; How do I cut internal O ring grooves so that it will
seal when a 1/4 inch SS tube is pushed though it.

I have a wide varity of metal working tools available. I can
cut the o ring grooves with a boring head on the mill or by
mounting the manifold on the lathe faceplate.

chuck

"Charles A. Sherwood" wrote in message
...

I am designing a radiator for a model engine.
Keep in mind that looks are more important than function.

The entire radiator (fins, tubes, manifold) will be made
from Stainless steel. The radiator will be about 5 inchs
square and 1/2 inch thick. There will be 4-5 tubes running
from top to bottom. I will press the 1/4 inch tubes through
60 pieces of .036 SS fins spaced about 40 thou apart.
I figure I will press the fins onto the tubes one at a time.

My problem is connecting the tubes to a manifold. Silver solder
might work but I'm not particularly good at it and I am very concerned
that the heat will tarnish the SS and I will not be able to polish
it after its assemebled. I am also concerned that 1250 degrees
will distort things and maybe cause problems.

I am wondering if I can use O rings to seal the tubes where they
enter the manifold. The manifold will be a square block of SS
drilled from the end for coolant passage and drilled from the side
for the tubes. The difficult part is cutting O-ring groves
for the 1/4 inch tubes.

First; Will this work? ie NOT leak. The cooling system will not
be pressurized but there will be some pressure from the circulating
pump.

Second; How do I cut internal O ring grooves so that it will
seal when a 1/4 inch SS tube is pushed though it.

I have a wide varity of metal working tools available. I can
cut the o ring grooves with a boring head on the mill or by
mounting the manifold on the lathe faceplate.

chuck

Yes, it will work, but you must make the gland to proper specs, and be
certain that the tubes have a radius on the end so they don't cut the O ring
when it's assembled. The entire assembly should be rigid and not flex if you
intend for it to seal permanently. When you machine the gland to specs,
it seals, you need do nothing else. As long as you can do something to
prevent the tubes from losing contact with the O ring, there's no reason for
the concept to work, and quite well. Roundness of the tubes, and surface
finish shouldn't be overlooked, either.

I trust you're using 303 stainless. Pretty much any other grade could prove
a bitch aside from 416. Cutting the groove will be hard because of the
small hole size, which will limit the size of your bar. Aside from the
setup, it will be much easier on a lathe than on a mill with a boring head
unless you have a facing head. If you have one of those, the mill might be
easier because of setup. In either case, you can go so far as turning the
spindle by hand to avoid chatter. Love to hear how it turns out.

Harold

Charles A. Sherwood wrote:

I am designing a radiator for a model engine.
Keep in mind that looks are more important than function.

The entire radiator (fins, tubes, manifold) will be made
from Stainless steel. The radiator will be about 5 inchs
square and 1/2 inch thick. There will be 4-5 tubes running
from top to bottom. I will press the 1/4 inch tubes through
60 pieces of .036 SS fins spaced about 40 thou apart.
I figure I will press the fins onto the tubes one at a time.

My problem is connecting the tubes to a manifold. Silver solder
might work but I'm not particularly good at it and I am very concerned
that the heat will tarnish the SS and I will not be able to polish
it after its assemebled. I am also concerned that 1250 degrees
will distort things and maybe cause problems.

I am wondering if I can use O rings to seal the tubes where they
enter the manifold. The manifold will be a square block of SS
drilled from the end for coolant passage and drilled from the side
for the tubes. The difficult part is cutting O-ring groves
for the 1/4 inch tubes.

First; Will this work? ie NOT leak. The cooling system will not
be pressurized but there will be some pressure from the circulating
pump.

Second; How do I cut internal O ring grooves so that it will
seal when a 1/4 inch SS tube is pushed though it.

I have a wide varity of metal working tools available. I can
cut the o ring grooves with a boring head on the mill or by
mounting the manifold on the lathe faceplate.

My old Honda Silverwing motorcycle had
a bunch of tubes and o-rings in the
cooling system. They needed to be replaced
every few years. Given the hard service
they received, I think it was a good application
and they should work fine on your engine.

Yes, it will work, but you must make the gland to proper specs, and be
certain that the tubes have a radius on the end so they don't cut the O ring
when it's assembled. The entire assembly should be rigid and not flex if you
intend for it to seal permanently. When you machine the gland to specs,

Are the specs in the Machinery handbook?


I trust you're using 303 stainless. Pretty much any other grade could prove

I bought 304 tubing from Mcmaster carr. I have not ordered the material for
the manifolds but I was planning on 303. 416 would be a bit easier to
machine but its not quite as shiny.

Cutting the groove will be hard because of the
small hole size, which will limit the size of your bar.

I could change to 3/8 tubing, but I already have the tubing and
I can't return it. I have tubing with 35 and 50 thou wall. I figured
the thin wall might compress when I press the fins over it so I was
planning on using the thick wall tubing. Is that a possiblity? I guess
I will have to try and make some O ring grooves and see what happens.


Aside from the
setup, it will be much easier on a lathe than on a mill with a boring head
unless you have a facing head.

I don't have one, but I'm not against buying one if it makes my life
a lot easier! Seems to me that I could drill the hole and then change
to a boring/facing head to cut the groove. Much easier and more precise
(using a DRO) than positioning the manifold on the lathe to cut the groove.

chuck

"Charles A. Sherwood" wrote: (Clip)Silver solder might work but I'm not
particularly good at it and I am very concerned that the heat will tarnish
the SS and I will not be able to polish it after its assemebled.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Before you go to all the trouble of machining all those O-ring fittings, why
don't you talk to someone in a plating shop? They may have a way to clean
off the silver solder discoloration--possibly chrome, silver or nickel
plating as the final step.

I'd use some SWAGELOK 1/4" SS fittings if you can find them.Or some other
brand. I used these for all sorts of hot,ugly applications( steel mills are
not the cleanest places).Probably get 'somehing' from a highend auto parts
supplier, HVAC distributor,sal****er aquariums, RV parts/dealer ?
Jay

On 28 Feb 2005 20:05:30 GMT, (Charles A.
Sherwood) wrote:


I am designing a radiator for a model engine.
Keep in mind that looks are more important than function.

The entire radiator (fins, tubes, manifold) will be made
from Stainless steel. The radiator will be about 5 inchs
square and 1/2 inch thick. There will be 4-5 tubes running
from top to bottom. I will press the 1/4 inch tubes through
60 pieces of .036 SS fins spaced about 40 thou apart.
I figure I will press the fins onto the tubes one at a time.

My problem is connecting the tubes to a manifold. Silver solder
might work but I'm not particularly good at it and I am very concerned
that the heat will tarnish the SS and I will not be able to polish
it after its assemebled. I am also concerned that 1250 degrees
will distort things and maybe cause problems.

I am wondering if I can use O rings to seal the tubes where they
enter the manifold. The manifold will be a square block of SS
drilled from the end for coolant passage and drilled from the side
for the tubes. The difficult part is cutting O-ring groves
for the 1/4 inch tubes.

First; Will this work? ie NOT leak. The cooling system will not
be pressurized but there will be some pressure from the circulating
pump.

Second; How do I cut internal O ring grooves so that it will
seal when a 1/4 inch SS tube is pushed though it.

I have a wide varity of metal working tools available. I can
cut the o ring grooves with a boring head on the mill or by
mounting the manifold on the lathe faceplate.

chuck
Greetings Chuck,
Instead of silver solder why not use soft solder made for stainless?
I've used the stuff befour and it works very well. The stuff I used
was made by EUTECTIC. I don't know if they are still in business but a
web search is bound to find a source. An easy way to solder all the
tubes at once would be to use a hot plate to heat the assembly. Then
apply the solder to each tube.
ERS

In article ,
says...
On 28 Feb 2005 20:05:30 GMT, (Charles A.
Sherwood) wrote:

My problem is connecting the tubes to a manifold. Silver solder
might work but I'm not particularly good at it and I am very concerned
that the heat will tarnish the SS and I will not be able to polish
it after its assemebled. I am also concerned that 1250 degrees
will distort things and maybe cause problems.


I have a wide varity of metal working tools available. I can
cut the o ring grooves with a boring head on the mill or by
mounting the manifold on the lathe faceplate.

chuck
Greetings Chuck,
Instead of silver solder why not use soft solder made for stainless?
I've used the stuff befour and it works very well. The stuff I used
was made by EUTECTIC. I don't know if they are still in business but a
web search is bound to find a source. An easy way to solder all the
tubes at once would be to use a hot plate to heat the assembly. Then
apply the solder to each tube.
ERS


All State 430 is an example of this stuff that I've used...

http://www.esabna.com/EUWeb/AS_handbook/596as8_13.htm

Im sure Harris makes an equivalent and likely a few variations as well.

Ned Simmons

If you are using thick wall tube just put the O ring groves in the tube.
You could even swage an O ring grove in the tubes and not cut. You would
still need a sholder for the tubes to butt against in the manifold and
something to tie the upper manifold to the lower manifold on both sides.
Glenn
"Charles A. Sherwood" wrote in message
...

I am designing a radiator for a model engine.
Keep in mind that looks are more important than function.

The entire radiator (fins, tubes, manifold) will be made
from Stainless steel. The radiator will be about 5 inchs
square and 1/2 inch thick. There will be 4-5 tubes running
from top to bottom. I will press the 1/4 inch tubes through
60 pieces of .036 SS fins spaced about 40 thou apart.
I figure I will press the fins onto the tubes one at a time.

My problem is connecting the tubes to a manifold. Silver solder
might work but I'm not particularly good at it and I am very concerned
that the heat will tarnish the SS and I will not be able to polish
it after its assemebled. I am also concerned that 1250 degrees
will distort things and maybe cause problems.

I am wondering if I can use O rings to seal the tubes where they
enter the manifold. The manifold will be a square block of SS
drilled from the end for coolant passage and drilled from the side
for the tubes. The difficult part is cutting O-ring groves
for the 1/4 inch tubes.

First; Will this work? ie NOT leak. The cooling system will not
be pressurized but there will be some pressure from the circulating
pump.

Second; How do I cut internal O ring grooves so that it will
seal when a 1/4 inch SS tube is pushed though it.

I have a wide varity of metal working tools available. I can
cut the o ring grooves with a boring head on the mill or by
mounting the manifold on the lathe faceplate.

chuck

In article ,
(Charles A. Sherwood) wrote:

I am wondering if I can use O rings to seal the tubes where they
enter the manifold. The manifold will be a square block of SS
drilled from the end for coolant passage and drilled from the side
for the tubes. The difficult part is cutting O-ring groves
for the 1/4 inch tubes.

First; Will this work? ie NOT leak. The cooling system will not
be pressurized but there will be some pressure from the circulating
pump.

I would look into doing it an easier way, like drilling tapered holes in
the manifold and pressing the 1/4" tubes into the taper to seal them.

--
Free men own guns, slaves don't
www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/

Or epoxy, with which I have repaired several auto radilators.
Don Young
"Nick Hull" wrote in message
...
In article ,
(Charles A. Sherwood) wrote:

I am wondering if I can use O rings to seal the tubes where they
enter the manifold. The manifold will be a square block of SS
drilled from the end for coolant passage and drilled from the side
for the tubes. The difficult part is cutting O-ring groves
for the 1/4 inch tubes.

First; Will this work? ie NOT leak. The cooling system will not
be pressurized but there will be some pressure from the circulating
pump.

I would look into doing it an easier way, like drilling tapered holes in
the manifold and pressing the 1/4" tubes into the taper to seal them.

--
Free men own guns, slaves don't
www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/

Could you make your headers in two pieces? I'm envisioning using the
square block of SS like you are curently planning, but with a recess
on the tube side at all but the edges and a sheet of SS let into the
recess. In the sheet SS cover would be holes for your tubes, in the
main manifold would be holes and counterbores appropriate for your O
rings. I'm not sure what the best way would be to hold and seal the
covers. There isn't a need to seal the whole cover, just around the
edges will make it water tight. Maybe some of the silver bearing soft
solder would work, just aroung the edges (although I've never used it
with SS). Another obtion would be a thin line of the RTV-like gasket
material that is used for engine gaskets. With good fits, the seam
should be nearly invisable. You could also take a skim with the mill
across the cover plate to make it more invisable if the plate is
thick enough.

Dick Morris
Anchorage, Alaska



On 28 Feb 2005 20:05:30 GMT, (Charles A.
Sherwood) wrote:

I am wondering if I can use O rings to seal the tubes where they
enter the manifold. The manifold will be a square block of SS
drilled from the end for coolant passage and drilled from the side
for the tubes. The difficult part is cutting O-ring groves
for the 1/4 inch tubes.

I would use a low temp silver solder line Allstate 430 and then soak it in
some hot Citrisurf 2250 to get the color back.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Charles A. Sherwood" wrote in message
...

Yes, it will work, but you must make the gland to proper specs, and be
certain that the tubes have a radius on the end so they don't cut the O
ring
when it's assembled. The entire assembly should be rigid and not flex if
you
intend for it to seal permanently. When you machine the gland to
specs,

Are the specs in the Machinery handbook?

Not to my knowledge, but you may find something online. This link may be
helpful.
http://www.marcorubber.com/orings.ht...&OVKEY=parker%
20o%20ring&OVMTC=standard

If not, Parker Packing publishes a booklet with engineering specs for glands
of all designs. You might be interested in acquiring one for your
personal use.


I trust you're using 303 stainless. Pretty much any other grade could
prove

I bought 304 tubing from Mcmaster carr. I have not ordered the material
for
the manifolds but I was planning on 303. 416 would be a bit easier to
machine but its not quite as shiny.

The difference between 416 and 303 are not enough to concern you regards
machining, but if you choose 303, Se has a slight edge over 303 S in that
regard. Any of them would be a good choice.

Cutting the groove will be hard because of the
small hole size, which will limit the size of your bar.

I could change to 3/8 tubing, but I already have the tubing and
I can't return it. I have tubing with 35 and 50 thou wall. I figured
the thin wall might compress when I press the fins over it so I was
planning on using the thick wall tubing. Is that a possiblity? I guess
I will have to try and make some O ring grooves and see what happens.

My personal choice would be to put the grooves in the blocks, not on the
tubes, although if you use the .050" wall, it would probably work fine.
You'd have ample material left after cutting the groove. Regardless of
which way you go, remember to have a gentle radius on the parts where
appropriate, so you don't shave the rings when you assemble. The gland
should have relatively sharp edges to prevent extrusion, but that won't be
much of a problem under your conditions. No pressure. Depth of your
groove, using a 1/16" cross section ring wouldn't be very deep, and cutting
it on the tube would certainly be a lot easier than internally. For
scale sake, you'd probably like to stick with the ¼" tubing, maybe even
smaller, so I think I'd go with what you have already purchased.

The idea of soft soldering sort of appeals to me. You might consider that
excellent advice, which has been offered by so many. I've never
experienced soft soldering of stainless, but have done a little silver
soldering. For a job like yours, silver solder isn't well suited unless
you have considerable experience soldering. Distortion and failed joints,
along with considerable discoloration would be a problem. If you happen to
over heat the joints, it's almost impossible to get the solder to take.
Silver solder is a wonderful way to go, but requires some skill for success.



Aside from the
setup, it will be much easier on a lathe than on a mill with a boring
head
unless you have a facing head.

I don't have one, but I'm not against buying one if it makes my life
a lot easier! Seems to me that I could drill the hole and then change
to a boring/facing head to cut the groove. Much easier and more precise
(using a DRO) than positioning the manifold on the lathe to cut the
groove.

That was my idea, more or less, but with a little creativity you could make
a lathe setup that worked quite well, saving you the cost of a facing boring
head, and they aren't cheap. A good name brand can cost in the high
hundreds. Sure would be a good reason to add one to the shop, though! g

Assuming you end up doing it as we've discussed, and on your lathe, you
could locate the bores within a thou or two simply by a pin in the tailstock
chuck, locating the block on location while you snugged your clamps. A dial
indicator in the hole and some light tapping once the block was lightly
clamped would bring it right in, at which time you'd tighten your clamps.
You'd have a lot better success that way than with a boring head, depending
on how rigid your lathe and mill are. Hard to say without knowing what
you're using. For me, it would be much easier to control the cut. YMMV.

Harold

My personal choice would be to put the grooves in the blocks, not on the
tubes, although if you use the .050" wall, it would probably work fine.
You'd have ample material left after cutting the groove. Regardless of

I did some browsing in Machinery handbook and MSC catalog. MSC catalog
list various O-rings and they were all .060 thick. The machinery
handbook suggests 20% compression so I would have to cut a groove
about 50 thou deep. Not going to work in 50 thou wall tubing. However
Mike told me that there are thinner O-rings available. Apparently as
thin as 40 thou. That would leave a 18 thou wall in the 50 thou tube
which should work.


The idea of soft soldering sort of appeals to me.

Me TOO! I didn't think it was an option until it was suggested here.
I will order some and experiment with it. Apparently the key
is the flux.

soldering. For a job like yours, silver solder isn't well suited unless
you have considerable experience soldering.

I have just enough experience with silver solder to understand that it
is most likely beyond my abilities! The scary part is when 1
out of 4 joints leak and next to impossible to get things apart to try again.



You'd have a lot better success that way than with a boring head, depending
on how rigid your lathe and mill are. Hard to say without knowing what
you're using.

I have a rockwell 11x24 lathe and a myford super 7. I would probably use
the rockwell for this job because it is quite rigid. I also have a
rockwell Horizontal/Vertical combo mill and a mill drill. I think either
one is capable of turning a boring head.

I agree that the lathe would do a better job, but the setup time would
be a lot more.

Epoxy?

On 28 Feb 2005 20:05:30 GMT, (Charles A.
Sherwood) wrote:



My problem is connecting the tubes to a manifold. Silver solder
might work but I'm not particularly good at it and I am very concerned
that the heat will tarnish the SS and I will not be able to polish
it after its assemebled. I am also concerned that 1250 degrees
will distort things and maybe cause problems.

Use Harris Staybrite silver-bearing solder. It is considerably
stronger than lead-tin solder, wets stainless readily, works at 430F
and is a good color match for stainless. Use Harris Staykleen flux or
ordinary tinner's fluid.

You could flux the joints, make little preform rings of the solder,
place the rings around the tubes where you want the joints and heat
the whole works in an oven. When the solder melts it will mostly wick
into the joint leaving a very small and perfect fillet. Try a
practice piece or two first to see how this works.

It is also available in preform rings but you might have to buy way
more than you need to get them. I'd go with the 3/64" dia wire.

Don sez:

"Use Harris Staybrite silver-bearing solder. It is considerably stronger
than lead-tin solder, wets stainless readily, works at 430F and is a good
color match for stainless. Use Harris Staykleen flux or ordinary tinner's
fluid."

Right on, Don! The same soldering components are supplied with boiler kits
from PM Research.

FWIW - Radio Shack used to carry "special" solders. Dunno, they may still
do. Their Stainless Steel Solder (Kester Brand) has a "special flux core"
and melts at 460 deg. F. On the package it is advertised "for all stainless
steel repairs".

Also available from the Shack, is 4% silver, 96% tin, "silver solder" with a
melting point of 440 deg. F, Keyster brand; advertised as "high strength for
jewelry, antique silver". It comes with "organic acid and chloride salt"
flux core. I'm reasonably certain this is about the same as Harris
Staybrite recommended above except that it has a flux core and doesn't
require the Staykleen flux. It'd probably be a good idea to use the
Staykleen flux any way which is dilute hydrochoric acid.

Bob Swinney



"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
On 28 Feb 2005 20:05:30 GMT, (Charles A.
Sherwood) wrote:



My problem is connecting the tubes to a manifold. Silver solder
might work but I'm not particularly good at it and I am very concerned
that the heat will tarnish the SS and I will not be able to polish
it after its assemebled. I am also concerned that 1250 degrees
will distort things and maybe cause problems.


You could flux the joints, make little preform rings of the solder,
place the rings around the tubes where you want the joints and heat
the whole works in an oven. When the solder melts it will mostly wick
into the joint leaving a very small and perfect fillet. Try a
practice piece or two first to see how this works.

It is also available in preform rings but you might have to buy way
more than you need to get them. I'd go with the 3/64" dia wire.

On Wed, 2 Mar 2005 09:17:28 -0600, "Robert Swinney"
wrote:

Don sez:

"Use Harris Staybrite silver-bearing solder. It is considerably stronger
than lead-tin solder, wets stainless readily, works at 430F and is a good
color match for stainless. Use Harris Staykleen flux or ordinary tinner's
fluid."

Right on, Don! The same soldering components are supplied with boiler kits
from PM Research.

FWIW - Radio Shack used to carry "special" solders. Dunno, they may still
do. Their Stainless Steel Solder (Kester Brand) has a "special flux core"
and melts at 460 deg. F. On the package it is advertised "for all stainless
steel repairs".

Also available from the Shack, is 4% silver, 96% tin, "silver solder" with a
melting point of 440 deg. F, Keyster brand; advertised as "high strength for
jewelry, antique silver". It comes with "organic acid and chloride salt"
flux core. I'm reasonably certain this is about the same as Harris
Staybrite recommended above except that it has a flux core and doesn't
require the Staykleen flux. It'd probably be a good idea to use the
Staykleen flux any way which is dilute hydrochoric acid.

Pretty close. I think Staybrite is 5% silver, balance tin.

The flux is "killed" HCl; HCl that has dissolved all the zinc it can
hold.

Right on, Don! The same soldering components are supplied with boiler kits
from PM Research.

Really. I got one of them kits. I have been tempted several times to
steal the solder out of it for other projects. Now I know what to buy.


You guys are amazing. Thanks for the advice.

chuck

"Use Harris Staybrite silver-bearing solder. It is considerably stronger
than lead-tin solder, wets stainless readily, works at 430F and is a good
color match for stainless. Use Harris Staykleen flux or ordinary tinner's
fluid."

Where can I order Harris solder and flux? MMC doesn't specify brands
and the silver solder that I have ordered from them was made by some
unusual company. I'm pretty sure MSC doesn't carry Harris.

chuck

Where can I order Harris solder and flux? MMC doesn't specify brands
and the silver solder that I have ordered from them was made by some
unusual company. I'm pretty sure MSC doesn't carry Harris.

I called Harris and got the name of several local distributors.
I called one and ordered 1 lb of stay bright 3/64 wire for $44.
As a comparison my #106 MMC catalog listed a similar product for
about the same price. I also ordered 1 oz of safetly silv 56 silver
solder for $19. MUCH cheaper than MMC.

chuck

On 2 Mar 2005 21:59:40 GMT, (Charles A.
Sherwood) wrote:

Where can I order Harris solder and flux? MMC doesn't specify brands
and the silver solder that I have ordered from them was made by some
unusual company. I'm pretty sure MSC doesn't carry Harris.

I called Harris and got the name of several local distributors.
I called one and ordered 1 lb of stay bright 3/64 wire for $44.
As a comparison my #106 MMC catalog listed a similar product for
about the same price. I also ordered 1 oz of safetly silv 56 silver
solder for $19. MUCH cheaper than MMC.

For future reference: Brownell's sells a 56% silversolder in .030 dia
and .005 sheet. Jeweller's supply places will have stuff like that
too. They're handy for making small preforms when appearance is
important. It's stronger than Staybrite, but requires considerably
higher temp and the color match with stainless isn't as good because
it has some copper in it.

For future reference: Brownell's sells a 56% silversolder in .030 dia
and .005 sheet. Jeweller's supply places will have stuff like that

That does sould handy, especially for oven heating.

I stole the harris stay bright solder out of my PM reseach kit and
tryed some test joints. It seems to work well and with a little
practice I think it will work for my project. Thanks

chuck

Be advised the 56% stuff can't be heated in an ordinary kitchen oven.

Bob Swinney
"Charles A. Sherwood" wrote in message
...
For future reference: Brownell's sells a 56% silversolder in .030 dia
and .005 sheet. Jeweller's supply places will have stuff like that

That does sould handy, especially for oven heating.

I stole the harris stay bright solder out of my PM reseach kit and
tryed some test joints. It seems to work well and with a little
practice I think it will work for my project. Thanks

chuck

Be advised the 56% stuff can't be heated in an ordinary kitchen oven.

Your oven doesn't go to 1200 deg F?

I know, but someday I really need to learn how to silver solder
so I guess I just got to keep on trying. I thought this was some
of the easier (and more general purpose) SS, so I figured I should
get an oz. to try out.

tanks
chuck

On 3 Mar 2005 19:01:56 GMT, (Charles A.
Sherwood) wrote:

Be advised the 56% stuff can't be heated in an ordinary kitchen oven.

Your oven doesn't go to 1200 deg F?

I know, but someday I really need to learn how to silver solder
so I guess I just got to keep on trying. I thought this was some
of the easier (and more general purpose) SS, so I figured I should
get an oz. to try out.

You will need different flux for the high-temp material. I like the
black stuff.

http://www.jwharris.com/welref/faq/flux_chart/

Scroll down to Stay-Silv.

Ask for the the black stuff because most beginners initially
overheat the work and kill the flux. It also seems to work well on
stainless.

You will need different flux for the high-temp material. I like the
black stuff.

http://www.jwharris.com/welref/faq/flux_chart/

Scroll down to Stay-Silv.

Ask for the the black stuff because most beginners initially
overheat the work and kill the flux. It also seems to work well on
stainless.


A year or so ago, I ordered some silver solder from MMC and
black flux because it was recommended in this group. Frankly
I tried the black flux and I don't it much so this
time I ordered white flux. The while flux was recommend by the
welding company selling the harris silver solder too.

I suspect I got some learning to do!

chuck

On 3 Mar 2005 21:02:37 GMT, (Charles A.
Sherwood) wrote:

You will need different flux for the high-temp material. I like the
black stuff.

http://www.jwharris.com/welref/faq/flux_chart/

Scroll down to Stay-Silv.

Ask for the the black stuff because most beginners initially
overheat the work and kill the flux. It also seems to work well on
stainless.

A year or so ago, I ordered some silver solder from MMC and
black flux because it was recommended in this group. Frankly
I tried the black flux and I don't it much so this
time I ordered white flux. The while flux was recommend by the
welding company selling the harris silver solder too.

It'll work fine if you watch your heat, which is a good idea anyway.

I suspect I got some learning to do!

Don't we all! That's what makes it fun.