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Default Pipe thread depth

I need a bit of advice. I just had a job completed by a machine shop
that called for a 1/2" NTP and 1/4" NPT hole. The part was titled
"manifold". The parts just arrived with the 1/2" NPT hole tapped to the
bottom of a 1 1/8" deep port (will never seal)and a correctly tapped
1/4" NPT hole. The machine shop says it was my fault because I didn't
specify the thread length and I will now have to pay for a "rush run"
if I need to meet my deadline. Isn't NPT supposed to be tapped within a
certain range? Shouldn't they have asked if there was any doubt? I
think that they should have asked. Am I wrong?

Thanks,

RR

  #3   Report Post  
 
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The problem is not that there was not enough depth for the tap. The
hole is threaded so deep that I run out of male threads on a nipple
before the nipple seals to the manifold. If I run the nipple into the
manifold to just before the end of the male thread, I can actually
"rattle" the nipple in the tapped female NPT hole. All I really needed
here (quality wise) was "good enough to work".
Would I be out of line by asking for a re-run?

RR

  #4   Report Post  
Eric R Snow
 
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On 7 Feb 2005 06:50:09 -0800, wrote:

I need a bit of advice. I just had a job completed by a machine shop
that called for a 1/2" NTP and 1/4" NPT hole. The part was titled
"manifold". The parts just arrived with the 1/2" NPT hole tapped to the
bottom of a 1 1/8" deep port (will never seal)and a correctly tapped
1/4" NPT hole. The machine shop says it was my fault because I didn't
specify the thread length and I will now have to pay for a "rush run"
if I need to meet my deadline. Isn't NPT supposed to be tapped within a
certain range? Shouldn't they have asked if there was any doubt? I
think that they should have asked. Am I wrong?

Thanks,

RR

Greetings RR,
You did not need to call out thread depth. When calling out a
straight thread you just need to specify the nominal O.D., the pitch,
class, and thread depth. For example: 1/4-20 3A .500 deep. You don't
need to specify the limits of the O.D. or the pitch diameter. The
nominal size and class do that. Same for the pipe tap, except for
tapered pipe. Since the thread is tapered the depth is controlled by
P.D. (pitch diameter). So, if the P.D. is correct, the depth muist be
correct. Pipe taps are ground this way. Only if the thread is going to
deviate from standard is the depth called out. The machine shop is
lying to you. They scrapped the parts and want you to pay for their
mistake. I would be leery of sending them anymore work. I bet that if
a tap manufacturer were consulted they would be ablke to send you
written proof that the thread depth of a tapered pipe is controlled by
the tap cutting to the correct P.D. If it was me, I'd tell the shop
that they screwed up and present them with thread data from a tap
maker, or from Machinery's Handbook to prove it. Then give them a
chance to do the parts over at their cost. If they refuse, and if the
dollar amount is low enough, take 'em to small claims court. If the
dollar amount is too high then call a lawer and have a letter sent to
them from the lawer. Oftentimes this is all it takes to get some
relief.
You may have be able to save your parts though. Heli-coils may
work. Since I don't know the dimensions of your part, or the material,
I can't say. But contacting the makers of Heli-coils should get you
the info you need to decide whether your parts can be saved.
This URL:
http://www.newmantools.com/recinch.htm#nptlink takes you to
the RECOIL web site for pipe thread repair. If the preceeding URL
doesn't work then this one takes you top their homepage
http://www.newmantools.com/recoil1.htm .The Helicoil site makes you
register so I tried Recoil and they don't require registration.
Cheers,
Eric R Snow,
E T Precision Machine

  #6   Report Post  
Tim Wescott
 
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Eric R Snow wrote:

On 7 Feb 2005 06:50:09 -0800, wrote:


I need a bit of advice. I just had a job completed by a machine shop
that called for a 1/2" NTP and 1/4" NPT hole. The part was titled
"manifold". The parts just arrived with the 1/2" NPT hole tapped to the
bottom of a 1 1/8" deep port (will never seal)and a correctly tapped
1/4" NPT hole. The machine shop says it was my fault because I didn't
specify the thread length and I will now have to pay for a "rush run"
if I need to meet my deadline. Isn't NPT supposed to be tapped within a
certain range? Shouldn't they have asked if there was any doubt? I
think that they should have asked. Am I wrong?

Thanks,

RR


Greetings RR,
You did not need to call out thread depth. When calling out a
straight thread you just need to specify the nominal O.D., the pitch,
class, and thread depth. For example: 1/4-20 3A .500 deep. You don't
need to specify the limits of the O.D. or the pitch diameter. The
nominal size and class do that. Same for the pipe tap, except for
tapered pipe. Since the thread is tapered the depth is controlled by
P.D. (pitch diameter). So, if the P.D. is correct, the depth muist be
correct. Pipe taps are ground this way. Only if the thread is going to
deviate from standard is the depth called out. The machine shop is
lying to you. They scrapped the parts and want you to pay for their
mistake. I would be leery of sending them anymore work. I bet that if
a tap manufacturer were consulted they would be ablke to send you
written proof that the thread depth of a tapered pipe is controlled by
the tap cutting to the correct P.D. If it was me, I'd tell the shop
that they screwed up and present them with thread data from a tap
maker, or from Machinery's Handbook to prove it. Then give them a
chance to do the parts over at their cost. If they refuse, and if the
dollar amount is low enough, take 'em to small claims court. If the
dollar amount is too high then call a lawer and have a letter sent to
them from the lawer. Oftentimes this is all it takes to get some
relief.
You may have be able to save your parts though. Heli-coils may
work. Since I don't know the dimensions of your part, or the material,
I can't say. But contacting the makers of Heli-coils should get you
the info you need to decide whether your parts can be saved.
This URL:
http://www.newmantools.com/recinch.htm#nptlink takes you to
the RECOIL web site for pipe thread repair. If the preceeding URL
doesn't work then this one takes you top their homepage
http://www.newmantools.com/recoil1.htm .The Helicoil site makes you
register so I tried Recoil and they don't require registration.
Cheers,
Eric R Snow,
E T Precision Machine

It may be cheaper to just walk away from them -- lies don't come in sets
of one. If they're going to play that sort of game once, they'll do it
again and again. Unless they're the only shop in town you should
probably tell them that you're happily paying the expedite fees -- then
tell them which one of their competitors you're paying the fees to.

Suing, or threatening to, may be indicated if they've screwed up a bunch
of parts -- but if it were me I'd my money and/or rework out of them and
then never darken their door.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com
  #7   Report Post  
Rick
 
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wrote in message
oups.com...
The problem is not that there was not enough depth for the tap. The
hole is threaded so deep that I run out of male threads on a nipple
before the nipple seals to the manifold. If I run the nipple into the
manifold to just before the end of the male thread, I can actually
"rattle" the nipple in the tapped female NPT hole. All I really needed
here (quality wise) was "good enough to work".
Would I be out of line by asking for a re-run?

RR


Their mistake for sure...

How many parts are you talking about? I'd probably just bore the 1/2" NPT
port out and press in a 1/2" pipe coupling (or a machined insert)


  #8   Report Post  
Jeff Wisnia
 
Posts: n/a
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Tim Wescott wrote:
Eric R Snow wrote:



snipped

Suing, or threatening to, may be indicated if they've screwed up a bunch
of parts -- but if it were me I'd my money and/or rework out of them and
then never darken their door.


Good thoughts there. I'm gonna celebrate my 69th birthday this
Wednesday, and I swear it took until a year or so ago for me to "have an
epiphany" over stuff like that and realize that you can't win 'em all.
Anything over 95% "wins" is enough to keep me happy now. Neither can you
make a profit on every job you do, it's the end of year total that counts.

I wish I'd come to that realization 45 years ago.

I've stopped agonizing over those sloppy schmucks and wondering why they
don't have the class to treat people the way my folks tought me to
treat others. Maybe they weren't fortunate enough to have the kind of
parents I did.

There is an old Jewish saying that goes like... "Treat others as you
wish to be treated. This is the whole of the law. The rest is commentary."

Just my .02,

Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public
schools"
  #9   Report Post  
 
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A few months ago I needed to make a similar manifold and investigated
pipe taps for the project. I discovered that "NPT" can refer to either
tapered or parallel treads. A 1/2" tapered will screw into a 1/2"
parallell, but not seal. The opposite is not true. The parallel thread
requires a sealing mechanism such as an "O" ring.

The same threading problem occurs with metric pipe threads, excep that
each country with metric standards has it's own standard. That is why
there is a 1/8" pipe tap in my set of metric tape/dies. Many Asian
countries use the American pipe standard.

I wonder if the shop doing your work happened to use the parallel tap
instead of a tapered tap?

Paul

  #10   Report Post  
Junior Member
 
Location: McHenry IL
Posts: 7
Default

According to the 26th edition of Machinery's Handbook, pages 1849-1850, and my Starrett tap drill chart, if you called out that you wanted the thread a 1/2-14 NPT on your print the shop should have done as follows:

Drill hole 23/32 in Diameter

Chamfer hole

Tap 1/2-14 NPT to a depth of .5343 or 17/32 (.53125)

In the diagram on page 1849 that depth is the "Handtight Engagement Length (L2=.320)" plus the "Wrench Makeup Length For Internal Thread (L3=.2143)"


Any reputable shop should know that if it is specified as an NPT thread it is because a seal is required at that joint. If you would like a copy of those pages from my Handbook if you don't have one, let me know. Also if you happen to be in the Chicago area and need any more of this work done again let me know.

As far as boring the hole out and pressing in an insert, I am assuming from what you said that this is for an intake manifold on an engine. If that is the case then you probably won't want to do that. Aside from the fact that there probably isn't enough wall stock to bore the hole larger, if you did that you would have to put an insert in that has the exact same expansion rates as the rest of the manifold, ie: Same material. Probably not the best idea. Go back to the shop and see what they say when you have proof, also review your print and make sure everything is called out right. Hope this helps.


  #11   Report Post  
 
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Thanks to all for the replies! Due to the thoughts expressed here, I
was able to successfully argue my case. The job is being re-run at no
charge.

Obviously my limited machining knowledge will not allow me to pay you
folks back by contributing to this group. Take a look at the following
URL. If anything there interests you let me know via email (off group).
I'll see what I can do to work you a deal. Only those that responded
prior to this post please!

www.probotics.com

Send to rrold1 "at" aol.com

Thanks again!

  #14   Report Post  
Harold and Susan Vordos
 
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"Eric R Snow" wrote in message
...
snip----

Since the thread is tapered the depth is controlled by
P.D. (pitch diameter). So, if the P.D. is correct, the depth muist be
correct. Pipe taps are ground this way.


.. I bet that if
a tap manufacturer were consulted they would be ablke to send you
written proof that the thread depth of a tapered pipe is controlled by
the tap cutting to the correct P.D.


Yep------and the rule of thumb is to tap until you have 5 threads (on the
tap) above the finished surface, unless you happen to have a plug gage to
check the proper depth. The rule may not be perfect, but it will always
yield a functional thread.

Harold


  #15   Report Post  
Eric R Snow
 
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On Mon, 7 Feb 2005 11:53:23 -0800, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Eric R Snow" wrote in message
.. .
snip----

Since the thread is tapered the depth is controlled by
P.D. (pitch diameter). So, if the P.D. is correct, the depth muist be
correct. Pipe taps are ground this way.


. I bet that if
a tap manufacturer were consulted they would be ablke to send you
written proof that the thread depth of a tapered pipe is controlled by
the tap cutting to the correct P.D.


Yep------and the rule of thumb is to tap until you have 5 threads (on the
tap) above the finished surface, unless you happen to have a plug gage to
check the proper depth. The rule may not be perfect, but it will always
yield a functional thread.

Harold

Harold,
I learned 7 threads. And when I checked this against my gauges it
worked. Most of the time.
ERS


  #16   Report Post  
Harold and Susan Vordos
 
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"Eric R Snow" wrote in message
...
snip----
Harold,
I learned 7 threads. And when I checked this against my gauges it
worked. Most of the time.
ERS


Chuckle! Most of the time? That's the beauty of the shop. I can't
help but wonder if we're at the mercy of poor work turned out by others in
many cases. I've had to tap until I had 4 or fewer threads on more than one
occasion, and have kicked myself for tapping too deep at five, so what you
say certainly makes sense. If nothing else, it's playing it safe. You
can always go deeper. I have never had the luxury of gages (rarely ever
tapped pipe threads for product, only my own use) so I tend to tap to about
5½ threads and call it good.

Harold

Harold


  #18   Report Post  
Michael Rainey
 
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In commercial production, NPT thread depth is measured with a gage that has
a ground notch. Unless otherwise specified on the blueprint, and with the
gage screwed in as far as it will readily go, the thread depth is correct if
the notch is within plus or minus one thread from the surface of the part.
There is no need to specify depth for a standard NPT thread.



The correct depth is plus or minus one thread from that notch,
"coolcamaro79" wrote in message
...

According to the 26th edition of Machinery's Handbook, pages 1849-1850,
and my Starrett tap drill chart, if you called out that you wanted the
thread a 1/2-14 NPT on your print the shop should have done as
follows:

Drill hole 23/32 in Diameter

Chamfer hole

Tap 1/2-14 NPT to a depth of .5343 or 17/32 (.53125)

In the diagram on page 1849 that depth is the "Handtight Engagement
Length (L2=.320)" plus the "Wrench Makeup Length For Internal Thread
(L3=.2143)"


Any reputable shop should know that if it is specified as an NPT thread
it is because a seal is required at that joint. If you would like a copy
of those pages from my Handbook if you don't have one, let me know. Also
if you happen to be in the Chicago area and need any more of this work
done again let me know.

As far as boring the hole out and pressing in an insert, I am assuming
from what you said that this is for an intake manifold on an engine. If
that is the case then you probably won't want to do that. Aside from the
fact that there probably isn't enough wall stock to bore the hole
larger, if you did that you would have to put an insert in that has the
exact same expansion rates as the rest of the manifold, ie: Same
material. Probably not the best idea. Go back to the shop and see what
they say when you have proof, also review your print and make sure
everything is called out right. Hope this helps.


--
coolcamaro79



  #20   Report Post  
habbi
 
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The straight threads you refer to are called NPS, they are the same dia. and
pitch as NPT but use an o-ring at the neck to seal. Valve to bottle
connections are where I usually see them such as scuba tanks, fire
extinguisher CO2 paintball or beverage tanks.
wrote in message
oups.com...
A few months ago I needed to make a similar manifold and investigated
pipe taps for the project. I discovered that "NPT" can refer to either
tapered or parallel treads. A 1/2" tapered will screw into a 1/2"
parallell, but not seal. The opposite is not true. The parallel thread
requires a sealing mechanism such as an "O" ring.

The same threading problem occurs with metric pipe threads, excep that
each country with metric standards has it's own standard. That is why
there is a 1/8" pipe tap in my set of metric tape/dies. Many Asian
countries use the American pipe standard.

I wonder if the shop doing your work happened to use the parallel tap
instead of a tapered tap?

Paul





  #21   Report Post  
Bruce L. Bergman
 
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On 7 Feb 2005 06:50:09 -0800, wrote:

I need a bit of advice. I just had a job completed by a machine shop
that called for a 1/2" NTP and 1/4" NPT hole. The part was titled
"manifold". The parts just arrived with the 1/2" NPT hole tapped to the
bottom of a 1 1/8" deep port (will never seal)and a correctly tapped
1/4" NPT hole. The machine shop says it was my fault because I didn't
specify the thread length and I will now have to pay for a "rush run"
if I need to meet my deadline. Isn't NPT supposed to be tapped within a
certain range? Shouldn't they have asked if there was any doubt? I
think that they should have asked. Am I wrong?


I have to chime in with the majority: You called for NPT threads in
the hole, that's what you should have gotten. I might even venture as
far as "someone at that machine shop is a moron", perhaps more than
one. Forget your paying them for a rush job, they should be bending
over backwards (and staying till Midnight if necessary) to make it
again and make it right.

NPT is all you needed to say, unless you wanted something done
differently. The T stands for Tapered, and there is a set standard
for it. If there were any questions about what you were calling for
on the prints, they should have called or written you and asked for
clarification before turning the part into scrap. Especially since
they got the 1/4" NPT hole right.

It works the same way for the male half of the threaded connection -
If I walk into a wholesale house and ask for a pipe or conduit nipple,
I get one with NPT threads on each end, a standard. A nipple cut 50
years ago will thread into (and create a seal) in a fitting made last
week, that's what standards are for.

If I want running threads all the way down the piece of conduit,
that's "allthread" and it's an entirely different animal. They do not
hand you allthread when you ask for a threaded nipple, or vice versa.

I've also worked in a print shop where the same principle stands -
we always got written confirmation of the proof sheet when they wanted
a word spelled wrong, and all our dictionaries and reference materials
disagreed with the customer. That way they couldn't come back later
and ask for the entire print run to be done again for free.

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.
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