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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Aluminum hammered finish update!
Well, I tried a pistol grip impact hammer with a bit ground down to a good
radius. My compressor was a bit underpowered so the depth and width of the indentations was inconsistent. If the difference were random it would actually look good but there tends to be lots of ugly grouping of patterns as the compressor tried to keep up. After half an hour the compressor seized up anyway... The 12" x 12" x .125" plate of 5052 was also warping as much as .5" over 4" of the pattern width. Not so good considering the final piece will be 42" x 106". I'd have a cylinder! So I tried a needle scaler. A Chicago Pneumatic cheapie with .125" needles. The difference was dramatic in both consistence in depth of dimple and amount of surface I could do quickly. The distortion was way less too, only .25" over 12" of width. Any suggestions on how to flatten out the sheets after I texture them? That's still 10.5" over just the width, 26.5" over the length. I tried reverse rolling the 12" samples through a hand rolling machine without much luck. It seems that the 5052 might be dulling the needles as well. Is it worth trying to resharpen them? Perhaps by grinding them flat again or something? I'm still open to ANY reasonable suggestion to do this differently. Sorry for being long-winded, this is really important. thanks all Ben |
#2
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Can you "texture" them from both sides to help keep them flat or at least
more flat than they are now? -- Regards, Joe Agro, Jr. http://www.autodrill.com http://www.multi-spindle-heads.com V8013 My eBay: http://tinyurl.com/4hpnc |
#3
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As you discovered, hammering stretches the metal. Unless you hit both
sides equally, it will warp. BTW, this is how they used to make boiler tanks in dirt-floor countries. They started with a flat plate of steel laying on the ground and a big hammer. A guy stood in the middle of the plate and whacked away, and eventually the sheet was curved enough to make the ends meet. ben carter wrote: Well, I tried a pistol grip impact hammer with a bit ground down to a good radius. My compressor was a bit underpowered so the depth and width of the indentations was inconsistent. If the difference were random it would actually look good but there tends to be lots of ugly grouping of patterns as the compressor tried to keep up. After half an hour the compressor seized up anyway... The 12" x 12" x .125" plate of 5052 was also warping as much as .5" over 4" of the pattern width. Not so good considering the final piece will be 42" x 106". I'd have a cylinder! So I tried a needle scaler. A Chicago Pneumatic cheapie with .125" needles. The difference was dramatic in both consistence in depth of dimple and amount of surface I could do quickly. The distortion was way less too, only .25" over 12" of width. Any suggestions on how to flatten out the sheets after I texture them? That's still 10.5" over just the width, 26.5" over the length. I tried reverse rolling the 12" samples through a hand rolling machine without much luck. It seems that the 5052 might be dulling the needles as well. Is it worth trying to resharpen them? Perhaps by grinding them flat again or something? I'm still open to ANY reasonable suggestion to do this differently. Sorry for being long-winded, this is really important. thanks all Ben |
#4
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#5
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ben carter wrote:
I'm still open to ANY reasonable suggestion to do this differently. Did you anneal the workpiece? Kevin Gallimore |
#6
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Please don't use HTML!!!!
daniel peterman wrote: RUn it over with your truck. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Till the Next Time |
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