Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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ben carter
 
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Default Aluminum hammered finish update!

Well, I tried a pistol grip impact hammer with a bit ground down to a good
radius. My compressor was a bit underpowered so the depth and width of the
indentations was inconsistent. If the difference were random it would
actually look good but there tends to be lots of ugly grouping of patterns
as the compressor tried to keep up. After half an hour the compressor
seized up anyway... The 12" x 12" x .125" plate of 5052 was also warping as
much as .5" over 4" of the pattern width. Not so good considering the final
piece will be 42" x 106". I'd have a cylinder!
So I tried a needle scaler. A Chicago Pneumatic cheapie with .125"
needles. The difference was dramatic in both consistence in depth of dimple
and amount of surface I could do quickly. The distortion was way less too,
only .25" over 12" of width.
Any suggestions on how to flatten out the sheets after I texture them?
That's still 10.5" over just the width, 26.5" over the length. I tried
reverse rolling the 12" samples through a hand rolling machine without much
luck.
It seems that the 5052 might be dulling the needles as well. Is it worth
trying to resharpen them? Perhaps by grinding them flat again or something?

I'm still open to ANY reasonable suggestion to do this differently.

Sorry for being long-winded, this is really important.

thanks all

Ben
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Joe
 
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Can you "texture" them from both sides to help keep them flat or at least
more flat than they are now?
--


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Joe Agro, Jr.
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Tim Killian
 
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As you discovered, hammering stretches the metal. Unless you hit both
sides equally, it will warp. BTW, this is how they used to make boiler
tanks in dirt-floor countries. They started with a flat plate of steel
laying on the ground and a big hammer. A guy stood in the middle of the
plate and whacked away, and eventually the sheet was curved enough to
make the ends meet.

ben carter wrote:

Well, I tried a pistol grip impact hammer with a bit ground down to a
good radius. My compressor was a bit underpowered so the depth and width
of the indentations was inconsistent. If the difference were random it
would actually look good but there tends to be lots of ugly grouping of
patterns as the compressor tried to keep up. After half an hour the
compressor seized up anyway... The 12" x 12" x .125" plate of 5052 was
also warping as much as .5" over 4" of the pattern width. Not so good
considering the final piece will be 42" x 106". I'd have a cylinder!
So I tried a needle scaler. A Chicago Pneumatic cheapie with .125"
needles. The difference was dramatic in both consistence in depth of
dimple and amount of surface I could do quickly. The distortion was way
less too, only .25" over 12" of width.
Any suggestions on how to flatten out the sheets after I texture them?
That's still 10.5" over just the width, 26.5" over the length. I tried
reverse rolling the 12" samples through a hand rolling machine without
much luck.
It seems that the 5052 might be dulling the needles as well. Is it worth
trying to resharpen them? Perhaps by grinding them flat again or something?

I'm still open to ANY reasonable suggestion to do this differently.

Sorry for being long-winded, this is really important.

thanks all

Ben


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daniel peterman
 
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axolotl
 
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ben carter wrote:

I'm still open to ANY reasonable suggestion to do this differently.



Did you anneal the workpiece?

Kevin Gallimore


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RoyJ
 
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Please don't use HTML!!!!

daniel peterman wrote:
RUn it over with your truck.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

Till the Next Time

  #7   Report Post  
DanG
 
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I wonder what might happen if you were to apply the sheeting to
the door face before hammering.

I think I would plan on using contact cement. The hammer blows
will deform both the wood? and the skin.

I also wondered about installing tire chains and driving over the
surface.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"ben carter" wrote in message
u.edu...
Well, I tried a pistol grip impact hammer with a bit ground down
to a good radius. My compressor was a bit underpowered so the
depth and width of the indentations was inconsistent. If the
difference were random it would actually look good but there
tends to be lots of ugly grouping of patterns as the compressor
tried to keep up. After half an hour the compressor seized up
anyway... The 12" x 12" x .125" plate of 5052 was also warping
as much as .5" over 4" of the pattern width. Not so good
considering the final piece will be 42" x 106". I'd have a
cylinder!
So I tried a needle scaler. A Chicago Pneumatic cheapie with
.125" needles. The difference was dramatic in both consistence
in depth of dimple and amount of surface I could do quickly. The
distortion was way less too, only .25" over 12" of width.
Any suggestions on how to flatten out the sheets after I texture
them? That's still 10.5" over just the width, 26.5" over the
length. I tried reverse rolling the 12" samples through a hand
rolling machine without much luck.
It seems that the 5052 might be dulling the needles as well. Is
it worth trying to resharpen them? Perhaps by grinding them flat
again or something?

I'm still open to ANY reasonable suggestion to do this
differently.

Sorry for being long-winded, this is really important.

thanks all

Ben



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