I wonder what might happen if you were to apply the sheeting to
the door face before hammering.

I think I would plan on using contact cement. The hammer blows
will deform both the wood? and the skin.

I also wondered about installing tire chains and driving over the
surface.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"ben carter" wrote in message
u.edu...
Well, I tried a pistol grip impact hammer with a bit ground down
to a good radius. My compressor was a bit underpowered so the
depth and width of the indentations was inconsistent. If the
difference were random it would actually look good but there
tends to be lots of ugly grouping of patterns as the compressor
tried to keep up. After half an hour the compressor seized up
anyway... The 12" x 12" x .125" plate of 5052 was also warping
as much as .5" over 4" of the pattern width. Not so good
considering the final piece will be 42" x 106". I'd have a
cylinder!
So I tried a needle scaler. A Chicago Pneumatic cheapie with
.125" needles. The difference was dramatic in both consistence
in depth of dimple and amount of surface I could do quickly. The
distortion was way less too, only .25" over 12" of width.
Any suggestions on how to flatten out the sheets after I texture
them? That's still 10.5" over just the width, 26.5" over the
length. I tried reverse rolling the 12" samples through a hand
rolling machine without much luck.
It seems that the 5052 might be dulling the needles as well. Is
it worth trying to resharpen them? Perhaps by grinding them flat
again or something?

I'm still open to ANY reasonable suggestion to do this
differently.

Sorry for being long-winded, this is really important.

thanks all

Ben