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| Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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best workshop storage
I am in the process of rearranging my shop layout....what shop storage
method do you like the best in your shop. For example....do you have work benches with storage under it...shelves on the walls, old school lockers, ect...I am thinking of building work benches with storage under...and configure the benches with openings for welders, grinders, bandsaws and other tools with designated storage and use areas. I have been racking my brain trying to develop the best design, then thought "why not ask what others like best in their shops..." Thanks |
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Your best bet is to build an out-building twice the size of the shop and
make neat piles. wrote in message oups.com... I am in the process of rearranging my shop layout....what shop storage method do you like the best in your shop. For example....do you have work benches with storage under it...shelves on the walls, old school lockers, ect...I am thinking of building work benches with storage under...and configure the benches with openings for welders, grinders, bandsaws and other tools with designated storage and use areas. I have been racking my brain trying to develop the best design, then thought "why not ask what others like best in their shops..." Thanks |
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#4
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I hope we get ALOT of responses here...I am always looking for a better
way to use my largest tool...my shop. One trap I fell for early and posters have mentioned it in other discussions, limit the number of workbenches you have. They usually end up being used for dumping clutter on and serving as a big inefficent shelf. One thing you need to ask yourself is do you like and need storage that is enclosed. The difference between a shelf and a cabinet is a door. For me, if I need to protect my stuff from dust/chips versus being able to see and quickly access it determines whether the storage has a door on it or not. Keep in mind that some processes are dirtier than others....grindings and sawdust comes to mind immediately where I would use cabinets instead of shelves. I would also really take the time to determine what you have that you use frequently. The BFH that you reach for every day should be within arm's reach. That special jig that you use once every couple years can rest somewhere in the depths of your shop. I also find that grouping tools and materials that are used together is very effiicent. I am also a believer that your shop should have very little open space along the walls and under/over machines. Every cubic inch of your shop is costing you dollars and cents and it should be utilized. I consider every machine should have its own storage (and for that matter it should be easily moved if needed) so all accessories it uses are stored in or around the machine. Most smaller/midsized machines can be mounted on casters which makes moving them easy and allows further storage under them. Small tool/part storage demand small shallow drawers where the tool chests/Lista cabinets/flat files are perfect for. Don't forget that weight requirements rise quickly so be sure to get study storage...you will be glad you did. Just yesterday I saw an overloaded pegboard display collapse on a customer because the store staff had not factored this detail into their thinking. One thing that many shops fail in is the management of clutter storage. The approach I have seen work is to empty your shop totally and then place only the machines back in. Once that is done, what you have remaining (and for most of us that is a heck of alot of stuff yet) is the potential clutter. Here is where having support from like minded friends is important. Each and every item should be evaluated as to its "do I really need it or want it" factor before you place it back into your shop. Havng the support of friends with the access to your favorite beverage can ease the pain of parting with that item that you have been lugging from shop to shop for decades. In many cases, one of your friends will volunteer to adopt it and you can have visiting rights. If you are successful with this approach, it can become an annual event at your shop and of those of your friends. TMT |
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#5
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In article .com,
"Too_Many_Tools" wrote: One trap I fell for early and posters have mentioned it in other discussions, limit the number of workbenches you have. They usually end up being used for dumping clutter on and serving as a big inefficent shelf. True, workbenches attract as lot of clutter. OTOH, many times you take something apart and cannot put it back together without ordering a special part, so the arrayed parts stay there awaiting completion. -- Free men own guns, slaves don't www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/ |
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George wrote:
Grant Erwin wrote: wrote: I am in the process of rearranging my shop layout....what shop storage method do you like the best in your shop. For example....do you have work benches with storage under it...shelves on the walls, old school lockers, ect...I am thinking of building work benches with storage under...and configure the benches with openings for welders, grinders, bandsaws and other tools with designated storage and use areas. I have been racking my brain trying to develop the best design, then thought "why not ask what others like best in their shops..." You can't really design your shop around storage, you sort of have to design your storage around your shop. Here are some of the things I do: 2 rollaways for most hand tools except hammers, chisels, punch pins, also I keep a lot of end mills and carbide inserts in there too, also some fasteners closet with shelves with boxes on shelves for unfinished projects workbench drawers 4 sets of steel drawers some 3" wide some 6" wide for a whole bunch of stuff hand-forged hooks up on one wall for welding lead, torch lead, air hose more hooks on a different wall for extension cords 2 rolling carts one with mill tooling and miscellaneous clamps other with lathe and grinder tooling an A-frame style rack made from old bed frame iron to hold stock inside, I separate stock into 4 categories angle solid (flat, rectangular) round pipe/tube a bigger rolling rack outside for steel storage which I keep tarped a wooden bookshelf between my 2 lathes for lathe tooling, bottom shelf is for welding rod/gloves/hood/slag hammers 2 more small wooden bookshelves for miscellany (mostly mill fixtures) a larger wooden bookshelf for materials like stockpiled electrical parts, 3M pad boxes, rolls of electrical wire, stuff like that I keep all my work gloves in one drawer. I keep all my safety glasses in one drawer. I keep all my steel tapes in one drawer. I keep most of my Allen wrenches in one drawer. I have my sockets organized with one of those Kennedy socket organizer trays, which works OK. I have a place for every wrench. I use different drawers in my rollaway one for straight screwdrivers one for Phillips and bit boxes, one for anything that looks like pliers. I have a hook for my leather apron. I also have a crawl space in which I store large electrical cord or rarely-used big stuff like that. There is an adjacent machinery room (furnace, hot water heater) in which I have a table where I keep my optical comparator under a protective cover. Organized? Hardly. But it's better than it was. GWE One thing I like about Grant's suggestion is the amount of stuff he puts on roll away carts. One thing that is always in short supply in any shop is space. I keep just about everything on wheels so that I can move it out of the way to work. I just came back from Costco where I bought yet another 6 shelved Baker's rack. They cost $77.00 and they are rated for 600#. They are easy to move. You can see what's on them. They are about 6' high so they utilize a lot of vertical space. George. George What do you use in the racks for storage - baking sheets/trays? I also have a bakers rack, but haven't come up with anything to slide into it. |
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#8
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#9
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Oh yeah. Also, I collect box end wrenches at yard sales and when I need
one for a tool I cut off the other end and dedicate the wrench for that tool. For example, on my 9" SB lathe, the big nut on top of my AXA toolpost is 7/8" and I have an old 7/8" box wrench which used to have two ends. Now the other end is cut off and that wrench lives right at that lathe. One thing you should be aware of is when you do design storage inside a machinery stand, if you use drawers or shelves make sure they are big enough. I built a Ralph Walker lathe stand with 9 drawers but none of them will hold the larger chucks I own for my little lathe, sigh. Wish they were deeper. On electric cord storage, I've learned to hang hooks high and coil cords in BIG loops, like six feet down and back. Many fewer coils that way, easier to handle, lays flatter against the wall, less time coiling. You can double up two cords on one hook by coiling one six feet and the other 3 feet -- even if the cords look identical it's easy to tell which is which and take off just the one. Also, I have learned to not buy 100' cords -- 4 25' cords are more useful. Same with air hose. Sure, sometimes I need to work way away from my shop way down the driveway, that's when I use them all. But most of the time I'm right in close, and less cord means less hassle, less clutter, less coiling, less stuff to trip over. Also, stuff can be portable without being on casters if your floor is smooth concrete. I have a bunch of blacksmithing stuff that I move a lot and none of it is on casters. It's heavy enough to stay put but light enough so one guy can skid it around. Post vise, anvil stand, swage block stand, welding vise, welding table, forge stand, stuff like that. Casters add cost and complexity and fabrication time and they need maintenance and if they get overloaded then they bend and jam. Skidding always works. I do have lots of stuff on casters too, of course. One thing it's important to make storage for is your pushbroom, your foxtail and your dustpan. Oh yeah, and your garbage can. Think about flow of material in, through, and out of your shop. One of your outputs is garbage. I used to skip sweeping when I misplaced one of these items, and then I tracked chips into the house. Now I'm divorced, and have a new partner and new house. And I learned to have a place for my broom & dustpan & wastebasket and keep that stuff there! GWE |
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I have really limited space, so I have an idea that works for me--I have
never seen anyone else do it. Stow things in 5-gallon buckets, and support them from the garage (shop) rafters by rope and pulley. There are trays made that nest nicely inside the buckets. There are also pocket aprons that fit the buckets, for holding wrenches, punches, and various other stuff. If you want, you can label the buckets on the bottom with a felt pen. I even have my scroll saw hanging up there. When I need it, (seldom), I lower it on top of the wash machine. |
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#12
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Grant is right about the skidding versus caster issue....one of my
"to-do-its" is to design an adjustable caster/foot to attach to machine stands that need to have firm mounting to the floor. Items like benders, anvils and vises are good examples that need to be firmly attached to the floor. TMT |
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#13
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Another issue you may want to consider is one of security....tools are
prime magnets for thieves and "borrowiing" neighbors...I'll let you decide who is worse. Also if you have children, there are some, no make that many tools that need to be regulated. Depending on how many prying eyes and sticky fingers wander through your shop, it can be a very good thing to have many of your more valuable, harder to replace, smaller items behind closed doors. It is much harder to borrow or steal tools if the party in question doesn't know they exist. I deliberately have cheap "loaner" tools that are visible to the public that are cannon fodder for my ham handed neighbors and jail bait for any thief that might make a midnight visit. The good stuff is stored in ratty looking storage cabinets while the Chinese wonder tools are stored in the nice bright red tool chests. Over the years, this approach has saved me considerable fustration with certain neighbors and several breakins. As a child, I lived in my father's shop. I look back on this and realize how many close calls I had messing around with the machines...none of which my father ever knew about. Safety training and regulation of which tools to use is of course the answer to this issue but your choice of storage will determine what access your children will have to the tools. TMT |
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Something else I should mention....the choice of storage will affect
how many problems you have with rust. Enclosed storage slows and tempers the temperature and humidity changes that the contents are exposed to. In my experience, there are days where I will not open the shop doors because of the cold equipment within and the warm/humid air outside. The only equipment I have ever had rust problems with are those who are exposed to the open air, never the stuff inside the closed cabinet. While having chucks, jigs, rotary tables and index heads stored on open shelves is very convenient, it also exposes them to any moisture ladened air that might enter on these rust inducing days. TMT |
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One of the best ready-built storage system components I found at a garage
sale, is a square hospital emergency room type cart, about 4-1/2 ft tall. It's built for ready access to numerous drawers, from either side. It's not a substitute for a roll away tool cabinet, but it holds more hardware/parts and miscellaneous stuff than I ever imagined. There are 12 medium sized drawers, and another 12 facing the other direction. The large, deeper full width drawers can be pulled out either side, one near the top, the other below the 24 smaller drawers. There's a third full width, shallower drawer at the top that only pulls out from the third side. All the drawers lock in place by stepping on a rod at the bottom, so the drawers could be locked when it had hospital supplies in it. This sturdy cart holds a lot of crap for it's size, plus the additional stuff on top. There are synthetic tires on ball bearing wheels, about 5" diameter.. big enough to roll over rough spots easily, or an air hose if needed. The frame is welded steel, and the only not-so-good feature is that the 24 smaller drawers are plastic. When I get around to building or finding a former/deflattener, I'll most likely bend up some metal drawers for it. A home shop buddy once told me he would build the best shop design.. a round shop, because it doesn't have any corners to start piling stuff into. WB ................. wrote in message oups.com... I am in the process of rearranging my shop layout....what shop storage method do you like the best in your shop. For example....do you have work benches with storage under it...shelves on the walls, old school lockers, ect...I am thinking of building work benches with storage under...and configure the benches with openings for welders, grinders, bandsaws and other tools with designated storage and use areas. I have been racking my brain trying to develop the best design, then thought "why not ask what others like best in their shops..." Thanks ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
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The only thing that gives me trouble is items like pliers. Most of the slot wall hooks are simple pins to hang things from. Pliers and such need some sort of better "hanger" which us usually a hole or slot in a board. Anyone have any ideas or good method of hanging this kind of thing? Where it doesn't interfere with the tool, I've attached a large washer to the end of some handles to just hang them from the standard pegs. however, I don't like having pliers and nippers in the rolling tool chest so want to find a better solution. Old Popular Mechanics are good sources for ways to use pegboard creatively. GWE |
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I got a few million little boxes from work that are about three by five
by ten inches or so and with a white label I have these all over the place. Some hold car parts, some hold electronics stuff, and some hold stuff and tools I use at my workbench. I can actually find stuff now! If it isn't in a box, that's still a challenge, though! I keep most of my chemicals in an old standup freezer. Enclosed, insulated, and a bit safer than out on shelves. I've been planning but not had a chance to redo my small tool storage thinking completely. My tool chest is overflowing and the top is a collector of crap. My idea is to make a wood frame about three feet wide, two feet deep, and six feet high. Inside the frame I attach six or so vertical panels suspended from drawer slides top and bottom. The slides attach to blocks that nest into the frame top and bottom, allowing the assembly to be moved sideways to accommodate different spacing between panels. The panels pull out completely on the 24" drawer slides, creating lots and lots of "wall" space. No pegboards; they always suck and to do it right you have to spend an arm and a leg on decent clips. With pegs, nails, blocks, and other available hardware, all my tools can be mounted on both sides of the panels. The drawer slides are each rated for about 200 pounds or so, making the load manageable. I can gets gobs and gobs of tools in there, and the footprint is a mere six square feet. Working similar issues at work, and my rule is to avoid all horizontal surfaces at all costs. All I need to do to prove my point is point to one! Everything has a place, and if there is no place to put something (usually new items) then you HAVE to make a spot for it because no other place will accept it. And you instantly know if the kids/wife/neighbor has appropriated one of your tools if you shadow the tools out with paint or a marker of some kind. My smaller hammers are shadowed on a bit of space and for some reason I always put them back. Makes no sense to me at all!  My usable attic space is over the garage and quite full of household stuff, so I'm kinda leery about hanging stuff from the ceiling. I can see some sag already, and don't know how much is normal or how much is unsafe. I really ought to sort and dispose of the stuff I haven't touched in ten or more years! Freecycle and Craigslist helps get rid of a lot of unnecessary stuff. wrote in message oups.com... | I am in the process of rearranging my shop layout....what shop storage | method do you like the best in your shop. For example....do you have | work benches with storage under it...shelves on the walls, old school | lockers, ect...I am thinking of building work benches with storage | under...and configure the benches with openings for welders, grinders, | bandsaws and other tools with designated storage and use areas. I have | been racking my brain trying to develop the best design, then thought | "why not ask what others like best in their shops..." | | Thanks | |
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#18
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wrote in news:1105464831.970828.146070
@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com: I am in the process of rearranging my shop layout....what shop storage method do you like the best in your shop. For example....do you have work benches with storage under it...shelves on the walls, old school lockers, ect...I am thinking of building work benches with storage under...and configure the benches with openings for welders, grinders, bandsaws and other tools with designated storage and use areas. I have been racking my brain trying to develop the best design, then thought "why not ask what others like best in their shops..." Thanks `Some ideas here, from a seasoned veteran..hehe... Global Industrial and the like are your friend. (Or surplus/plant auction/etc). Think about things such as these for storage. Remember that 80% of what you keep could be classified as *little* or *small* One of these and a roll of sticky labels is great for bolts, screws, nuts, washers, electrical connectors, batteries, etc, and only occupies 2-1/2 ft of floor space. http://www.globalindustrial.com/gcs/...oductInfo.web? infoParam.mode=1&index=3&options.parentCategoryKey =124&infoParam.itemKey= 30024898 Something in the line of this: http://www.globalindustrial.com/gcs/...egoryInfo.web? options.parentCategoryKey=124&index=3&catSearchPar ams.categoryKey=1589 &REQ_SUB_CAT=Pick+Rack+with+Bins Or: http://www.globalindustrial.com/gcs/...egoryInfo.web? options.parentCategoryKey=124&index=3&catSearchPar ams.categoryKey=1579 &REQ_SUB_CAT=Cabinets+with+Bins are absolutely great for all kinds of hand tools (air tools, welding tools, etc) and for supplies (welding rods, welding wire, dykum, tapping fluid, etc) You can buy just the backplate and the bins also, and mount them to the wall. Use the wall space you have available to the maximum extent. Put pegboard everywhere you can. Mount your bench grinder, buffer, and other small tools on angle brackets from the wall. This allows you floor space under the equipment, wall space over it and keeps it off your workbench. A double swing-arm and angle tray mounted to the mill can hold your collets/tool holders and clamping sets. Swings out of the way when needed, is at your fingertips when you are working. Same goes for the lathe, double swing-arm and tray with collets, chuck wrench, wrenches for the compound, extra toolholders, etc can be put on the swing-arm tray. These items free up cabinet space, and put what you need, where you need it, when you need it. (And you can make the swing arms and trays as a project.) Back-to-back or quad-layout equipment frees up floor space also. -- Anthony You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make better idiots. Remove sp to reply via email |
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#19
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Grant Erwin wrote:
The only thing that gives me trouble is items like pliers. Most of the slot wall hooks are simple pins to hang things from. Pliers and such need some sort of better "hanger" which us usually a hole or slot in a board. Anyone have any ideas or good method of hanging this kind of thing? Where it doesn't interfere with the tool, I've attached a large washer to the end of some handles to just hang them from the standard pegs. however, I don't like having pliers and nippers in the rolling tool chest so want to find a better solution. Old Popular Mechanics are good sources for ways to use pegboard creatively. GWE My pliers hang on pegboard "hooks" which have two parallel wire rods spaced about 3/4" apart sticking straight out about 5", with a U loop on the outboard end. I can stack up six or seven pairs, largest ones at the back. Looks like these: http://www.storefixtures2000.com/Wir...wall_hooks.htm Just stick one plier handle in between the two rods. Shouldn't be a rocket science project to roll your own either. -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public schools" |
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#20
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The only thing that gives me trouble is items like pliers. Most of the slot wall hooks are simple pins to hang things from. Pliers and such need some sort of better "hanger" which us usually a hole or slot in a board. Anyone have any ideas or good method of hanging this kind of thing? Where it doesn't interfere with the tool, I've attached a large washer to the end of some handles to just hang them from the standard pegs. however, I don't like having pliers and nippers in the rolling tool chest so want to find a better solution. Koz I use a screwdriver rack that goes on the pegboard. That holds one leg of the small pliers. For large pliers I just put two of the single bars (stick out straight about 2 inches) side by side and hang the pliers upside down between them. That also works for my tin snips and scissors. Steve. |
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#21
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"Koz" wrote in message
news 
| The only thing that gives me trouble is items like pliers. Most of the| slot wall hooks are simple pins to hang things from. Pliers and such | need some sort of better "hanger" which us usually a hole or slot in a | board. Anyone have any ideas or good method of hanging this kind of | thing? Where it doesn't interfere with the tool, I've attached a large | washer to the end of some handles to just hang them from the standard | pegs. however, I don't like having pliers and nippers in the rolling | tool chest so want to find a better solution. | | | Koz Staple a heavy rubber band or large o-ring to the wall. O-rings last longer and flop less. Adjust the length with your stapler. O-rings to suit available at your local hardware box store in the hardware bins. |
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#22
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Rex B wrote:
snip George What do you use in the racks for storage - baking sheets/trays? I also have a bakers rack, but haven't come up with anything to slide into it. Speaking of Baking sheets / trays - I use 'old' Cooking pans - 3" by 8 x 16 maybe - Great for sorting screws or nails .... Spread them out and take a look. I also have a large SS pot that I use as a chemical pot - mostly for de-rusting stuff. I use roll a-rounds, and tool boxes. I'll give a better concept when I move into my new shop. Martin -- Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn @ home at Lion's Lair with our computer NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder |
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"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote:
Rex B wrote: snip George What do you use in the racks for storage - baking sheets/trays? My steel/wood/plastic off cuts go into #10 tins, then 50L drums, then a 6metre rack/shed I'm currently building. Nuts, bolts, etc go into glass jars, or large tins (unsorted reclaim). I use 'old' Cooking pans - 3" by 8 x 16 maybe - Great for sorting screws or nails .... Spread them out and take a look. I'm currently into re-using 3litre plasitc milk containers. Simply cut out a side panel and useful for; - holding project bits, - washing/degreasing stuff up to 6" and built in spout, - sorting screw, bolts, nuts etc (strip out and trash projects) - medium term storage - write contents on side to find easier Okay, they are soft plastic, but they don't rust |
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On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 08:10:28 GMT, "Martin H. Eastburn"
wrote: I use 'old' Cooking pans - 3" by 8 x 16 maybe - Great for sorting screws or nails .... Spread them out and take a look. For sorting, I use a slice off the side of the big laundry detergent jugs, they even have a pouring spout which facilitates pouring the contents back into tobacco tin storage (three per stud space resting on horizontal 1x2's, many levels high) cut off jugs provide additional storage, soaking containers etc. Scrap goes into the blue box. Gerry :-)} London, Canada |
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Martin H. Eastburn wrote: Speaking of Baking sheets / trays - I use 'old' Cooking pans - 3" by 8 x 16 maybe - Great for sorting screws or nails .... Spread them out and take a look. I also have a large SS pot that I use as a chemical pot - mostly for de-rusting stuff. I use roll a-rounds, and tool boxes. I'll give a better concept when I move into my new shop. Martin A friend of mine got a whole pile of cafeteria trays cheap. He puts them in a dado slot between two uprights and has an instant skinny drawer. He stores his unsorted hardware on them. Steve |
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#26
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In article , Rex B
wrote: My shop is 24x40. The back 10' is enclosed as a storage & office. Desk, steel shelving for parts storage. Over this is a loft for bulk storage - tires, wood etc. The compressor will go up there as soon as I figure out how to lift it. I won't store it outside for security reasons. Not a good idea to put heavy stuff up high above your desk. I put heav y stuff low and light stuff high. -- Free men own guns, slaves don't www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/ |
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Nick Hull wrote:
In article , Rex B wrote: My shop is 24x40. The back 10' is enclosed as a storage & office. Desk, steel shelving for parts storage. Over this is a loft for bulk storage - tires, wood etc. The compressor will go up there as soon as I figure out how to lift it. I won't store it outside for security reasons. Not a good idea to put heavy stuff up high above your desk. I put heav y stuff low and light stuff high. I agree, but this is a fully framed and floored area, not rafters. |
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#28
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In article sU9Gd.85365$Xk.25523@pd7tw3no,
CNC Solutions wrote: "Anthony" wrote in message 8... wrote in news:1105464831.970828.146070 @z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com: I am in the process of rearranging my shop layout....what shop storage method do you like the best in your shop. For example....do you have work benches with storage under it...shelves on the walls, old school lockers, ect...I am thinking of building work benches with storage under...and configure the benches with openings for welders, grinders, bandsaws and other tools with designated storage and use areas. I have been racking my brain trying to develop the best design, then thought "why not ask what others like best in their shops..." Thanks The best thing I have found for holding small hand tool are the cutlery basket from a dishwasher. They are round or rectangular an can be screwed to the wall and you can see what's in them. A plus is with the holes in them they don't collect dirt in the bottoms. -- Darcy Norton CNC Solutions Edmonton, Alberta, Canada I found that gray steel shelving is available of the used market. I found a dealer of used office furniture that had a warehouse of the stuff and I could pick risers in 1 ft increments and shelves in width, depth, and loadbearing to fit what I wanted. ISTR it was $2 per piece. I bolted 6 inch shelves along an entire wall in my shop. -- a d y k e s @ p a n i x . c o m Don't blame me. I voted for Gore. |
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#29
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I bought some 4 drawer lateral file cabinets at a govt auction. Not
that I wanted them, but they were in the lot of other sh8 that I wanted. Was going to dump them until I got the idea that I could use them in my shop. The drawers come out only about 12 inches but the drawer is about 3 feet wide ! Makes it very easy to see what you have without bringing the load way out front of the center of gravity. Plus the top is another shelf. BTW, Grant: the whistle you re-drew is lacking the opening for the resonant chamber On Tue, 11 Jan 2005 15:19:21 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote: Four drawer file cabinets help me out a lot. The drawers are strong and will move easily with a lot of weight in them, and you can store a lot of loose stuff on top of them too. If you keep your eyes open you can pick file cabinets up at the "right" prices at auctions. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
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Jeff Wisnia wrote in message ... wrote: I am in the process of rearranging my shop layout....what shop storage method do you like the best in your shop. For example....do you have work benches with storage under it...shelves on the walls, old school lockers, ect...I am thinking of building work benches with storage under...and configure the benches with openings for welders, grinders, bandsaws and other tools with designated storage and use areas. I have been racking my brain trying to develop the best design, then thought "why not ask what others like best in their shops..." Thanks Four drawer file cabinets help me out a lot. The drawers are strong and will move easily with a lot of weight in them, and you can store a lot of loose stuff on top of them too. Yep, they are very handy and not expensive if you can find them at auctions and closing down sales - they are the main storage down at the mill and lathe end of my workshop for all the heavy stuff like chucks, milling tools, drill sets, soft jaws. They also help keep things rust free in damp air although not totally. Up at the engine assembly end it's mainly cheap shelves from the local DIY superstore with stuff in cardboard and plastic boxes on them and the hand tools are on racks made from fibreboard screwed to the walls with nails banged in to hold the tools. A cheap version of pegboard I suppose. The other 1/3 of the wallspace is occupied by benches which primarily accumulate crap and cease to be of any value at all. I think the general rule in workshops is that any flat area will accumulate junk until it can no longer be used for its intended purpose and you then either have to spend a few days sorting and boxing the junk or get a bigger workshop. -- Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines (www.pumaracing.co.uk) |
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Lateral draws are nice. Only one open at a time to inhibit tip over.
Load heavy in the bottom... Martin Fuhh wrote: I bought some 4 drawer lateral file cabinets at a govt auction. Not that I wanted them, but they were in the lot of other sh8 that I wanted. Was going to dump them until I got the idea that I could use them in my shop. The drawers come out only about 12 inches but the drawer is about 3 feet wide ! Makes it very easy to see what you have without bringing the load way out front of the center of gravity. Plus the top is another shelf. BTW, Grant: the whistle you re-drew is lacking the opening for the resonant chamber On Tue, 11 Jan 2005 15:19:21 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote: Four drawer file cabinets help me out a lot. The drawers are strong and will move easily with a lot of weight in them, and you can store a lot of loose stuff on top of them too. If you keep your eyes open you can pick file cabinets up at the "right" prices at auctions. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- -- Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn @ home at Lion's Lair with our computer NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder |
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