It's not quite on topic, but then what is?

When we bought this place the shop roof leaked. It's a typical pole
building with a metal roof, nails with gaskets and all that wonderful
stuff -- and it's old enough that it was leaking. I had a roofing place
come out to fix it. They said they'd replace the nails, and they ended
up putting in a new nail 2" away from each old nail and spreading goop
around the old nails. Now the roof leaks again. Since they didn't do
what they told me they would in the first place (and since they're damn
slow) I don't particularly want to talk to them ever again, even to get
them to come out and screw up the roof more badly while calling it
"warranty work".

Two questions:

First:

Anybody in the Oregon City/Portland area know of a really good roofer
for metal roofs? I need someone who won't do a half-assed job, and I
understand that you have to pay for quality. If the only choice is to
rip off the roof and do it over that's better than some cheap-ass repair
that drips water on my valuable stuff.

Second:

Anybody anywhere out there have suggestions for what I should be
hearing? I'd certainly like to do something short of tearing the whole
thing off and starting over again, but I don't want another POS roofing job.

Thanks in advance.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

In article ,
Tim Wescott wrote:

Anybody anywhere out there have suggestions for what I should be
hearing? I'd certainly like to do something short of tearing the whole
thing off and starting over again, but I don't want another POS roofing job.

Rip it off and replace, I'd say. These roofs have a limited lifespan,
and when it hits it hits. The less expensive solution is the same sort
of roof (should be attached with screws, not nails). It will also be
life-limited (figure 10-20 years). The more expensive solution is
concealed fastener metal roofing - there's stuff that's preformed and
essentially one step up from the screw-through, and then there's whole
hog, should outlast you, standing seam, though fussy standing seam
practioniners may not want to work over purlins, which would add a layer
of plywood to what is already going to be the most expensive roof
option. But it should outlast you...

--
Cats, Coffee, Chocolate...vices to live by

If you drive north on I-5 up into Washington after awhile (hour?) you
will see a place that says "METAL ROOFS". That guy's been in business
quite awhile. Might be worth visiting. If it were me I'd reroof the
sucker and be done with it. - GWE

Tim Wescott wrote:

It's not quite on topic, but then what is?

When we bought this place the shop roof leaked. It's a typical pole
building with a metal roof, nails with gaskets and all that wonderful
stuff -- and it's old enough that it was leaking. I had a roofing place
come out to fix it. They said they'd replace the nails, and they ended
up putting in a new nail 2" away from each old nail and spreading goop
around the old nails. Now the roof leaks again. Since they didn't do
what they told me they would in the first place (and since they're damn
slow) I don't particularly want to talk to them ever again, even to get
them to come out and screw up the roof more badly while calling it
"warranty work".

Two questions:

First:

Anybody in the Oregon City/Portland area know of a really good roofer
for metal roofs? I need someone who won't do a half-assed job, and I
understand that you have to pay for quality. If the only choice is to
rip off the roof and do it over that's better than some cheap-ass repair
that drips water on my valuable stuff.

Second:

Anybody anywhere out there have suggestions for what I should be
hearing? I'd certainly like to do something short of tearing the whole
thing off and starting over again, but I don't want another POS roofing
job.

Thanks in advance.

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 12:09:39 -0800, Tim Wescott
wrote:

===It's not quite on topic, but then what is?
===
===When we bought this place the shop roof leaked. It's a typical pole
===building with a metal roof, nails with gaskets and all that wonderful
===stuff -- and it's old enough that it was leaking. I had a roofing place
===come out to fix it. They said they'd replace the nails, and they ended
===up putting in a new nail 2" away from each old nail and spreading goop
===around the old nails. Now the roof leaks again. Since they didn't do
===what they told me they would in the first place (and since they're damn
===slow) I don't particularly want to talk to them ever again, even to get
===them to come out and screw up the roof more badly while calling it
==="warranty work".
===
===Two questions:
===
===First:
===
===Anybody in the Oregon City/Portland area know of a really good roofer
===for metal roofs? I need someone who won't do a half-assed job, and I
===understand that you have to pay for quality. If the only choice is to
===rip off the roof and do it over that's better than some cheap-ass repair
===that drips water on my valuable stuff.
===
===Second:
===
===Anybody anywhere out there have suggestions for what I should be
===hearing? I'd certainly like to do something short of tearing the whole
===thing off and starting over again, but I don't want another POS roofing job.
===
===Thanks in advance.


IMHO, nails are a poor choice for attaching metal roofing down, even
with spiral or ring loc nails. Exposure to sun, Expansion and
contraction and swelling / drying of the wood soon makes them pop
loose and they continually get worse. I would have the roofing
secured with the screw type fasteners. They are easy to put in, and
come in self drilling sizes with wood shank screws with a hex head and
neoprene washers. The hold and don't leak. Driving a nail back into
its original hole is futile at most......its inevitable its going to
come abck up / out.
Visit my website: http://www.frugalmachinist.com
Opinions expressed are those of my wife,
I had no input whatsoever.
Remove "nospam" from email addy.

"Roy" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 12:09:39 -0800, Tim Wescott
wrote:

===It's not quite on topic, but then what is?
===
===When we bought this place the shop roof leaked. It's a typical pole
===building with a metal roof, nails with gaskets and all that
wonderful
===stuff -- and it's old enough that it was leaking. I had a roofing
place
===come out to fix it. They said they'd replace the nails, and they
ended
===up putting in a new nail 2" away from each old nail and spreading
goop
===around the old nails. Now the roof leaks again. Since they didn't
do
===what they told me they would in the first place (and since they're
damn
===slow) I don't particularly want to talk to them ever again, even to
get
===them to come out and screw up the roof more badly while calling it
==="warranty work".
===
===Two questions:
===
===First:
===
===Anybody in the Oregon City/Portland area know of a really good
roofer
===for metal roofs? I need someone who won't do a half-assed job, and
I
===understand that you have to pay for quality. If the only choice is
to
===rip off the roof and do it over that's better than some cheap-ass
repair
===that drips water on my valuable stuff.
===
===Second:
===
===Anybody anywhere out there have suggestions for what I should be
===hearing? I'd certainly like to do something short of tearing the
whole
===thing off and starting over again, but I don't want another POS
roofing job.
===
===Thanks in advance.


IMHO, nails are a poor choice for attaching metal roofing down, even
with spiral or ring loc nails. Exposure to sun, Expansion and
contraction and swelling / drying of the wood soon makes them pop
loose and they continually get worse. I would have the roofing
secured with the screw type fasteners. They are easy to put in, and
come in self drilling sizes with wood shank screws with a hex head and
neoprene washers. The hold and don't leak. Driving a nail back into
its original hole is futile at most......its inevitable its going to
come abck up / out.
Visit my website: http://www.frugalmachinist.com
Opinions expressed are those of my wife,
I had no input whatsoever.
Remove "nospam" from email addy.

Got three dorms, that have been re roofed twice. Storms blasted 2-4 feet
chunks off the roofs. The roofs are v shaped, flat, over raised concrete
walls.

The new metal roofs look a lot stronger, bolt attachments, with locking
pannels (3 feet wide). Looks like it would hold up to a hurricane.

xman

SNIP
"Tim Wescott" wrote in message

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Living in the great NW does present it's problems. Grant gave you the
right answers . Trying to save a frigged up job is throwing your money
away. Get a roof system that is held down by edge clips that are totally
covered by the standing seam of the next panel. The only screw through the
surface would be what is called a drag screw, keeps the panel from sliding
off and it is covered up by the ridge flashing when the roof is finished.
Accept no substitutes !! I have that style roof on my shop and if my memory
serves me, it might have a 20-25 year life.

Ed Angell

xmRadio wrote:

"Roy" wrote in message
...

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 12:09:39 -0800, Tim Wescott
wrote:


===It's not quite on topic, but then what is?
===
===When we bought this place the shop roof leaked. It's a typical pole
===building with a metal roof, nails with gaskets and all that

wonderful

===stuff -- and it's old enough that it was leaking. I had a roofing

place

===come out to fix it. They said they'd replace the nails, and they

ended

===up putting in a new nail 2" away from each old nail and spreading

goop

===around the old nails. Now the roof leaks again. Since they didn't

do

===what they told me they would in the first place (and since they're

damn

===slow) I don't particularly want to talk to them ever again, even to

get

===them to come out and screw up the roof more badly while calling it
==="warranty work".
===
===Two questions:
===
===First:
===
===Anybody in the Oregon City/Portland area know of a really good

roofer

===for metal roofs? I need someone who won't do a half-assed job, and

I

===understand that you have to pay for quality. If the only choice is

to

===rip off the roof and do it over that's better than some cheap-ass

repair

===that drips water on my valuable stuff.
===
===Second:
===
===Anybody anywhere out there have suggestions for what I should be
===hearing? I'd certainly like to do something short of tearing the

whole

===thing off and starting over again, but I don't want another POS

roofing job.

===
===Thanks in advance.


IMHO, nails are a poor choice for attaching metal roofing down, even
with spiral or ring loc nails. Exposure to sun, Expansion and
contraction and swelling / drying of the wood soon makes them pop
loose and they continually get worse. I would have the roofing
secured with the screw type fasteners. They are easy to put in, and
come in self drilling sizes with wood shank screws with a hex head and
neoprene washers. The hold and don't leak. Driving a nail back into
its original hole is futile at most......its inevitable its going to
come abck up / out.
Visit my website: http://www.frugalmachinist.com
Opinions expressed are those of my wife,
I had no input whatsoever.
Remove "nospam" from email addy.


Got three dorms, that have been re roofed twice. Storms blasted 2-4 feet
chunks off the roofs. The roofs are v shaped, flat, over raised concrete
walls.

The new metal roofs look a lot stronger, bolt attachments, with locking
pannels (3 feet wide). Looks like it would hold up to a hurricane.

xman



The real ****er is they told me they'd put in screws, then not only put
in nails, but they put them in _next_ to the existing nails, so now
there's twice as many holes in the roof. When challenged, they said
"but gee, we'd have had to go buy big screws to make it fit".

Well, yes.

I'd try to get them to make it good, but I figure if they're going to
screw it up that badly the first time around they'll just keep screwing
it up more if I could get them back at all.

Sounds like I just need a new roof (sigh).

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 12:09:39 -0800, Tim Wescott
wrote:


Anybody anywhere out there have suggestions for what I should be
hearing? I'd certainly like to do something short of tearing the whole
thing off and starting over again, but I don't want another POS roofing job.

Thanks in advance.

Have the roof foamed. This takes care of the leaking problem once and
for all and adds a decent layer of insulation to the entire shop.

Its very popular here in California and seems to be holding up quite
well.

An example
http://www.ameriservinc.com/MetalRoofs/mr_foam.htm


Gunner

"To be civilized is to restrain the ability to commit mayhem.
To be incapable of committing mayhem is not the mark of the civilized,
merely the domesticated." - Trefor Thomas

The metal seamed roofs are nice, but are one of the most expensive roofs
available. I suggest that you get a price on the metal seamed as well
as conventional metal roofs. I also favor screws vs nails. The roofs
that I have seen use a rubber washer to seal the screw hole.

Actually, the asphalt shingle roofs are very durable if you use the
shingles with longer waranties. I think that the fiberglass shingles
cost a bit more, but last longer.

For what it is worth, in my region of the country, about 95% of the
roofers are Mexicans. I think the foremen speak english.

Richard



Ed Angell wrote:
SNIP

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com


Living in the great NW does present it's problems. Grant gave you the

right answers . Trying to save a frigged up job is throwing your money
away. Get a roof system that is held down by edge clips that are totally
covered by the standing seam of the next panel. The only screw through the
surface would be what is called a drag screw, keeps the panel from sliding
off and it is covered up by the ridge flashing when the roof is finished.
Accept no substitutes !! I have that style roof on my shop and if my memory
serves me, it might have a 20-25 year life.

Ed Angell

"Richard Ferguson" wrote in message
...

Actually, the asphalt shingle roofs are very durable if you use the
shingles with longer waranties. I think that the fiberglass shingles
cost a bit more, but last longer.

I live in an area that suffered two hurricanes this year, and I have just
about decided that I never want to live under an asphalt and/or fiberglass
shingle roof. Metal roofs seemed to do much better than shingles. Concrete
roofs (like mine) did best.

For what it is worth, in my region of the country, about 95% of the
roofers are Mexicans. I think the foremen speak english.

If the Foreman speaks english, you got the GOOD crew!

Vaughn

Richard Ferguson wrote:

The metal seamed roofs are nice, but are one of the most expensive roofs
available. I suggest that you get a price on the metal seamed as well
as conventional metal roofs. I also favor screws vs nails. The roofs
that I have seen use a rubber washer to seal the screw hole.

Actually, the asphalt shingle roofs are very durable if you use the
shingles with longer waranties. I think that the fiberglass shingles
cost a bit more, but last longer.

For what it is worth, in my region of the country, about 95% of the
roofers are Mexicans. I think the foremen speak english.

Richard



Ed Angell wrote:

SNIP


"Tim Wescott" wrote in message

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com


Living in the great NW does present it's problems. Grant gave
you the


right answers . Trying to save a frigged up job is throwing your money
away. Get a roof system that is held down by edge clips that are totally
covered by the standing seam of the next panel. The only screw
through the
surface would be what is called a drag screw, keeps the panel from
sliding
off and it is covered up by the ridge flashing when the roof is finished.
Accept no substitutes !! I have that style roof on my shop and if my
memory
serves me, it might have a 20-25 year life.

Ed Angell


That's the case out here, too -- and they can do very good work.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Gunner wrote:

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 12:09:39 -0800, Tim Wescott
wrote:


Anybody anywhere out there have suggestions for what I should be
hearing? I'd certainly like to do something short of tearing the whole
thing off and starting over again, but I don't want another POS roofing job.

Thanks in advance.


Have the roof foamed. This takes care of the leaking problem once and
for all and adds a decent layer of insulation to the entire shop.

Its very popular here in California and seems to be holding up quite
well.

An example
http://www.ameriservinc.com/MetalRoofs/mr_foam.htm


But aren't you from the LA area, where if it drizzles a little bit
everyone is afraid to drive?

My dad was down there one June when it rained lightly -- the only people
at Dizzyland were the Oregon contingent and a bunch of Japanese tourists.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
It's not quite on topic, but then what is?

When we bought this place the shop roof leaked. It's a typical pole
building with a metal roof, nails with gaskets and all that wonderful
stuff -- and it's old enough that it was leaking. I had a roofing place
come out to fix it. They said they'd replace the nails, and they ended
up putting in a new nail 2" away from each old nail and spreading goop
around the old nails. Now the roof leaks again. Since they didn't do
what they told me they would in the first place (and since they're damn
slow) I don't particularly want to talk to them ever again, even to get
them to come out and screw up the roof more badly while calling it
"warranty work".

If the deck is strong enough I would consider fastening polyisocyanurate
foam sheathing to the metal deck and topping it with fully adhered EPDM.
Your local roofing manufacturer's rep can evaluate the deck and tell you if
they will warranty it or not.

Use the good screws called ZAC screws. The rubber is captured underneath the
screw and cannot squirt out when tightened.

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
It's not quite on topic, but then what is?

When we bought this place the shop roof leaked. It's a typical pole
building with a metal roof, nails with gaskets and all that wonderful
stuff -- and it's old enough that it was leaking. I had a roofing place
come out to fix it. They said they'd replace the nails, and they ended
up putting in a new nail 2" away from each old nail and spreading goop
around the old nails. Now the roof leaks again. Since they didn't do
what they told me they would in the first place (and since they're damn
slow) I don't particularly want to talk to them ever again, even to get
them to come out and screw up the roof more badly while calling it
"warranty work".

Two questions:

First:

Anybody in the Oregon City/Portland area know of a really good roofer
for metal roofs? I need someone who won't do a half-assed job, and I
understand that you have to pay for quality. If the only choice is to
rip off the roof and do it over that's better than some cheap-ass repair
that drips water on my valuable stuff.

Second:

Anybody anywhere out there have suggestions for what I should be
hearing? I'd certainly like to do something short of tearing the whole
thing off and starting over again, but I don't want another POS roofing
job.

Thanks in advance.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com


You might want to check out:
http://www.ondura.com/home.htm

I saw this stuff at Lowe's and it seemed to be some pretty good stuff.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 16:48:57 -0800, Tim Wescott
wrote:

Gunner wrote:

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 12:09:39 -0800, Tim Wescott
wrote:


Anybody anywhere out there have suggestions for what I should be
hearing? I'd certainly like to do something short of tearing the whole
thing off and starting over again, but I don't want another POS roofing job.

Thanks in advance.


Have the roof foamed. This takes care of the leaking problem once and
for all and adds a decent layer of insulation to the entire shop.

Its very popular here in California and seems to be holding up quite
well.

An example
http://www.ameriservinc.com/MetalRoofs/mr_foam.htm


But aren't you from the LA area, where if it drizzles a little bit
everyone is afraid to drive?

Drive less than 70 you mean.

My dad was down there one June when it rained lightly -- the only people
at Dizzyland were the Oregon contingent and a bunch of Japanese tourists.

Rain in June is bad juju to those in Southern California. Shrug..but
then where I live in the Central Valley/high desert,. the average
rainfall per year is 4"

The foam still seems to work very well.

Gunner

"To be civilized is to restrain the ability to commit mayhem.
To be incapable of committing mayhem is not the mark of the civilized,
merely the domesticated." - Trefor Thomas

Tim Wescott wrote:

It's not quite on topic, but then what is?

When we bought this place the shop roof leaked. It's a typical pole
building with a metal roof, nails with gaskets and all that wonderful
stuff -- and it's old enough that it was leaking. I had a roofing place
come out to fix it. They said they'd replace the nails, and they ended
up putting in a new nail 2" away from each old nail and spreading goop
around the old nails. Now the roof leaks again. Since they didn't do
what they told me they would in the first place (and since they're damn
slow) I don't particularly want to talk to them ever again, even to get
them to come out and screw up the roof more badly while calling it
"warranty work".

Two questions:

First:

Anybody in the Oregon City/Portland area know of a really good roofer
for metal roofs? I need someone who won't do a half-assed job, and I
understand that you have to pay for quality. If the only choice is to
rip off the roof and do it over that's better than some cheap-ass repair
that drips water on my valuable stuff.

Second:

Anybody anywhere out there have suggestions for what I should be
hearing? I'd certainly like to do something short of tearing the whole
thing off and starting over again, but I don't want another POS roofing
job.

Thanks in advance.

How about having a roofing company put Urethane layer over the top.
Insulation and sound dreadining as well as waterproofing.

Martin

--
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 20:21:41 -0800, "Roger Shoaf"
wrote:


"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
It's not quite on topic, but then what is?

When we bought this place the shop roof leaked. It's a typical pole
building with a metal roof, nails with gaskets and all that wonderful
stuff -- and it's old enough that it was leaking. I had a roofing place
come out to fix it. They said they'd replace the nails, and they ended
up putting in a new nail 2" away from each old nail and spreading goop
around the old nails. Now the roof leaks again. Since they didn't do
what they told me they would in the first place (and since they're damn
slow) I don't particularly want to talk to them ever again, even to get
them to come out and screw up the roof more badly while calling it
"warranty work".

Two questions:

First:

Anybody in the Oregon City/Portland area know of a really good roofer
for metal roofs? I need someone who won't do a half-assed job, and I
understand that you have to pay for quality. If the only choice is to
rip off the roof and do it over that's better than some cheap-ass repair
that drips water on my valuable stuff.

Second:

Anybody anywhere out there have suggestions for what I should be
hearing? I'd certainly like to do something short of tearing the whole
thing off and starting over again, but I don't want another POS roofing
job.

Thanks in advance.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com


You might want to check out:
http://www.ondura.com/home.htm

I saw this stuff at Lowe's and it seemed to be some pretty good stuff.

When I built my shop I used strongbarn, but couldnt find any when it
came time to build a lean-to for the horses, so I used that ondura
type stuff from Home Depot. They told me how much better than metal it
is. Pfft... I wont use it again. All I can say is dont put it up on a
slightly windy day cause if (4x6 sheets) you drop it you ruined it.
Also dont slip with the hammer cause it doesnt dent real well.
I knew a guy in Montana that built his metal shop and had it foamed
as in Gunners post, `cept he had his done on the inside, the ceiling
and walls. It was always nice and warm and bone dry.

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 20:21:41 -0800, "Roger Shoaf"
calmly ranted:

You might want to check out:
http://www.ondura.com/home.htm

I saw this stuff at Lowe's and it seemed to be some pretty good stuff.

What price are they getting for that stuff? (just curious)


--
REBOOT AMERICA!
-----------------------
http://diversify.com Website Programming

I just had standing seam metal roofing put on our house this summer. The price
quote at $4500 was about $1000 cheaper than conventional asphalt shingles. Two
guys did the whole thing in four days total.

Granted, my roofing is pretty simple with no valleys. The only complication was
the solar collector frame on the almost flat dormer roof. We just unbolted one
leg at a time (collectors canted to the south) and slid the metal roofing under
the leg. I made some treated lumber pads to spread the load. After we gooped
the whole pad up with silicone, the leg was set back down and the clamping bolt
hole redrilled and reinstalled.

I was a treat watching the sheets of ice sliding off after the latest storm. I
was a little concerned whether the roofing would be noisy during heavy rain,
but I couldn't tell the difference.

Earle Rich
Mont Vernon, NH

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
snip----
Rain in June is bad juju to those in Southern California. Shrug..but
then where I live in the Central Valley/high desert,. the average
rainfall per year is 4"

Chuckle! You'd have loved living here in Onalaska the past few years,
where the official rain gage, some 30 miles away, registered almost 60" of
rainfall each year, 150% of normal. Up in the hills where we live, it was
greater, but there's no official rain gage so it's hard to say how much we
received. . This year is running slightly less than normal, and it shows.

In the past two weeks we've received half a 5 gallon bucket of rain. Your
4" of annual rain sounds like nothing more than high humidity to us.

Harold

Just curious, how much do installers charge per square to replace asphalt
shingles where you live? Around here, Eastern NC, the 2-man shingle crews
will do simple new installation for 50 to 65 dollars a square on a 4/12 to
6/12 pitch roof.

RJ

--
"Have no one say it, and say it to your shame, that all was well here, until
YOU came."




"ERich10983" wrote in message
...
I just had standing seam metal roofing put on our house this summer. The
price
quote at $4500 was about $1000 cheaper than conventional asphalt shingles.
Two
guys did the whole thing in four days total.

Granted, my roofing is pretty simple with no valleys. The only
complication was
the solar collector frame on the almost flat dormer roof. We just unbolted
one
leg at a time (collectors canted to the south) and slid the metal roofing
under
the leg. I made some treated lumber pads to spread the load. After we
gooped
the whole pad up with silicone, the leg was set back down and the clamping
bolt
hole redrilled and reinstalled.

I was a treat watching the sheets of ice sliding off after the latest
storm. I
was a little concerned whether the roofing would be noisy during heavy
rain,
but I couldn't tell the difference.

Earle Rich
Mont Vernon, NH

In article , Harold & Susan Vordos says...

In the past two weeks we've received half a 5 gallon bucket of rain. Your
4" of annual rain sounds like nothing more than high humidity to us.

Heck, we got that much in two *days* this past fall hurricane season.

I'm about ready to install my own rain gage around here.

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 20:21:41 -0800, "Roger Shoaf"
calmly ranted:

You might want to check out:
http://www.ondura.com/home.htm

I saw this stuff at Lowe's and it seemed to be some pretty good stuff.

What price are they getting for that stuff? (just curious)


--
REBOOT AMERICA!
-----------------------
http://diversify.com Website Programming

I don't recall the price, but I don't remember it being particularly
expensive. I kind of liked the idea that tou could walk on the stuff unlike
the tin.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

You might want to check out:
http://www.ondura.com/home.htm

I saw this stuff at Lowe's and it seemed to be some pretty good stuff.

What price are they getting for that stuff? (just curious)

I don't recall the price, but I don't remember it being particularly
expensive. I kind of liked the idea that tou could walk on the stuff unlike
the tin.

I've used Ondura (sheds can be a very helpful platform to try out
building materials) and while it has not leaked yet, one tiny roof was
enough to cure me of using it for anything else. It's basically really
heavy-duty corrugated tarpaper, painted on the outside surface. If
you're not "walking" right on top of the nailheads, it will crush. The
standard stock material is not fire-rated at all. And it flattens out in
storage, so you need to sort of "squish" it into place to get the sheets
to run correctly. An irritating material to work with.

--
Cats, Coffee, Chocolate...vices to live by

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 07:39:04 -0800, "Roger Shoaf"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 20:21:41 -0800, "Roger Shoaf"
calmly ranted:

You might want to check out:
http://www.ondura.com/home.htm

I saw this stuff at Lowe's and it seemed to be some pretty good stuff.

What price are they getting for that stuff? (just curious)


--
REBOOT AMERICA!
-----------------------
http://diversify.com Website Programming

I don't recall the price, but I don't remember it being particularly
expensive. I kind of liked the idea that tou could walk on the stuff unlike
the tin.

LOL Yeah they told me that too!

On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 11:53:35 -0800, "Harold & Susan Vordos"
wrote:

Note - on topic stuff about roofs at end.

In the past two weeks we've received half a 5 gallon bucket of rain. Your
4" of annual rain sounds like nothing more than high humidity to us.

Please send us some of that rain.

Today, Tuesday, was the hottest December day for 30 years,
41.7C or 107F - and it is only early summer, can get much warmer in
Jan & Feb, I am not too happy when it is over 110F or 45C.

I am building a new timber deck, 80 square metres, for my
neighbours and stopped work at 12.15pm, just too hot to continue.
Came indoors, turned on air-con and kipped for a couple of hours.

Hired a Paslode nail gun for the job, marvellous toy, beats an
Armstrong hammer every time. Had all the frames nailed together by
the time I quit, tomorrow the decking goes on - will start at 6am
while it is cool although forecast is a cooler 30C/86F, so should get
all the main deck completed and most of the deck around the fish-pond,
I calculate about 2000 nails to go.

To return to topic, my house has a galvanised corrugated steel
roof, about 15 years old so far, and shows no sign of corrosion
despite being less than a kilometre from the Indian Ocean. It is
fastened with Tek type screws with neoprene gaskets driven through the
peaks of the CS, all rain runs down the troughs, no leaks so far but
will have to go up on the roof before winter to check for any loosened
screws.

For Tim, original poster, I suggest that you replace the lot.
Nails always leak and two lots of nail holes will leak twice as much.
The only other suggestion I can make is to have the roof sprayed
with about 20mm of expanded urethane foam and have that foam covered
by a sprayed bitumen emulsion. Advantage, the urethane is an
excellent insulator but it will not be cheap.


Alan
in beautiful Golden Bay, Western Oz, South 32.25.42, East 115.45.44 GMT+8
VK6 YAB ICQ 6581610 to reply, change oz to au in address

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 11:53:35 -0800, "Harold & Susan Vordos"
wrote:


In the past two weeks we've received half a 5 gallon bucket of rain.
Your
4" of annual rain sounds like nothing more than high humidity to us.

Please send us some of that rain.

Today, Tuesday, was the hottest December day for 30 years,
41.7C or 107F - and it is only early summer, can get much warmer in
Jan & Feb, I am not too happy when it is over 110F or 45C.

....snip...

Alan
in beautiful Golden Bay, Western Oz, South 32.25.42, East 115.45.44
GMT+8
VK6 YAB ICQ 6581610 to reply, change oz to au in address

Currently -10C here in Ottawa, forecast for -19C tonight. Can't wait for
the hockey rink to freeze!
http://weatheroffice.ec.gc.ca/forecast/city_e.html?yow

- Owen -

Thats fairly cheap compared to the midwest (Twin Cities area)

Backlash wrote:

Just curious, how much do installers charge per square to replace asphalt
shingles where you live? Around here, Eastern NC, the 2-man shingle crews
will do simple new installation for 50 to 65 dollars a square on a 4/12 to
6/12 pitch roof.

RJ

This is a subject near and dear to my heart. I have a simple, 2-plane roof over
a 1500-sq ft house. Replacing the metal shingles, including removal & disposal,
is about $2800. Just to replace with standing-seam painted steel is 3 times
that. I know the materials aren't that expensive, and it's not rocket science to
do the work. So why is it so expensive?

Rex B
Fort Worth

On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 16:27:41 GMT, RoyJ wrote:

||Thats fairly cheap compared to the midwest (Twin Cities area)
||
||Backlash wrote:
||
|| Just curious, how much do installers charge per square to replace asphalt
|| shingles where you live? Around here, Eastern NC, the 2-man shingle crews
|| will do simple new installation for 50 to 65 dollars a square on a 4/12 to
|| 6/12 pitch roof.
||
|| RJ
||

Texas Parts Guy

wrote in message ...
This is a subject near and dear to my heart. I have a simple, 2-plane roof
over
a 1500-sq ft house. Replacing the metal shingles, including removal &
disposal,
is about $2800. Just to replace with standing-seam painted steel is 3
times
that. I know the materials aren't that expensive, and it's not rocket
science to
do the work. So why is it so expensive?

Rex B
Fort Worth


I will try to help out.

I was a steel erection contractor for nine years in Las Vegas. Our niche in
the market was doing field welding of wrought iron, (ornamental metal,
actually), and carport repairs. We did all the repairs in the Las Vegas
area for U-Haul, (our favorite customer), and 275 apartment properties, as
well as hotels and businesses. In the area of carport repairs, we used a
lot of corrugated rolled roofing. We also used some standing seam roofing,
which was a dinosaur of the way carports were made twenty years ago. For a
16" wide x 18' long SSR galvanized member, we paid about $30. The painted
ones were about $42, as I recall. Plain galvanized corrugated was about $23
per panel. We charged $125 per sheet for the corrugated and $150 per member
for the standing seam.

Why? Because I was in business to make money. It was what the market could
bear. It took us ten minutes to make $125, but that was two men, a truck
with $25k of equipment, liability insurance, industrial insurance, overhead,
fast food lunches, advertising, a shop, etc.

You are right. Rocket science it ain't. There are ins and outs and tricks,
but not anything to justify the prices some people charge. Yes, there is
some prep involved. Yes, there is some labor and danger to get the stuff
15' in the air and not kill yourself or someone else. Yes, the industrial
insurance rates are high, and BE SURE THAT IF YOU HIRE SOMEONE YOU GET A
COPY OF THEIR CERTIFICATE! Verify it, too.

I would shop around and get labor only prices. Most guys will not want to
do that because they make a ton on the materials, and some on the labor.
You should be able to buy it from a supplier and get a decent price. The
only thing to inflate it that much is profit, plain and simple. I know
steel prices are up, but you will have to check and see where they are now.
I don't believe it has gone up that much to make a roof worth $9k. Prices
may be significantly higher for the nice colored stuff available now, but it
really isn't $6 sf expensive. Google it up and find out.

HTH

Steve

Steve
Thank you much for verifying what was becoming apparent to me. There is a
local source - several in fact - for quality steel painted roofing. Would you
recommend I buy what I want, have it delivered, and then seek installation bids?
I'm in the car parts business, and installers don't think much of customers
who bring their own parts

Rex B

On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 11:37:41 -0800, "SteveB" wrote:

||
wrote in message ...
|| This is a subject near and dear to my heart. I have a simple, 2-plane roof
|| over
|| a 1500-sq ft house. Replacing the metal shingles, including removal &
|| disposal,
|| is about $2800. Just to replace with standing-seam painted steel is 3
|| times
|| that. I know the materials aren't that expensive, and it's not rocket
|| science to
|| do the work. So why is it so expensive?
||
|| Rex B
|| Fort Worth
||
||
||I will try to help out.
||
||I was a steel erection contractor for nine years in Las Vegas. Our niche in
||the market was doing field welding of wrought iron, (ornamental metal,
||actually), and carport repairs. We did all the repairs in the Las Vegas
||area for U-Haul, (our favorite customer), and 275 apartment properties, as
||well as hotels and businesses. In the area of carport repairs, we used a
||lot of corrugated rolled roofing. We also used some standing seam roofing,
||which was a dinosaur of the way carports were made twenty years ago. For a
||16" wide x 18' long SSR galvanized member, we paid about $30. The painted
||ones were about $42, as I recall. Plain galvanized corrugated was about $23
||per panel. We charged $125 per sheet for the corrugated and $150 per member
||for the standing seam.
||
||Why? Because I was in business to make money. It was what the market could
||bear. It took us ten minutes to make $125, but that was two men, a truck
||with $25k of equipment, liability insurance, industrial insurance, overhead,
||fast food lunches, advertising, a shop, etc.
||
||You are right. Rocket science it ain't. There are ins and outs and tricks,
||but not anything to justify the prices some people charge. Yes, there is
||some prep involved. Yes, there is some labor and danger to get the stuff
||15' in the air and not kill yourself or someone else. Yes, the industrial
||insurance rates are high, and BE SURE THAT IF YOU HIRE SOMEONE YOU GET A
||COPY OF THEIR CERTIFICATE! Verify it, too.
||
||I would shop around and get labor only prices. Most guys will not want to
||do that because they make a ton on the materials, and some on the labor.
||You should be able to buy it from a supplier and get a decent price. The
||only thing to inflate it that much is profit, plain and simple. I know
||steel prices are up, but you will have to check and see where they are now.
||I don't believe it has gone up that much to make a roof worth $9k. Prices
||may be significantly higher for the nice colored stuff available now, but it
||really isn't $6 sf expensive. Google it up and find out.
||
||HTH
||
||Steve
||
||

Texas Parts Guy

wrote in message ...
Steve
Thank you much for verifying what was becoming apparent to me. There is
a
local source - several in fact - for quality steel painted roofing. Would
you
recommend I buy what I want, have it delivered, and then seek installation
bids?
I'm in the car parts business, and installers don't think much of
customers
who bring their own parts

Rex B


And there's the rub. But cash talks, and if you want to find an installer,
you can usually always find someone who wants to and knows how to install
anything. I would ask questions of those you find, and make sure who you
select knows what they are doing, but since you will be getting a big chunk
cut off the price, you can't get TOO selective. Do some research ahead of
time, to know what to expect, and stay on top of things during the
installation.

Just as you would for wood, block, brick, whatever, ask the supplier if he
can give you any names of people they use who are in the biz. Usually you
don't have to go very far.

You are in the driver's seat now.

Steve

Steve
thanks much for the informed advice.

Rex

On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 17:35:24 -0800, "SteveB" wrote:

||
wrote in message ...
|| Steve
|| Thank you much for verifying what was becoming apparent to me. There is
|| a
|| local source - several in fact - for quality steel painted roofing. Would
|| you
|| recommend I buy what I want, have it delivered, and then seek installation
|| bids?
|| I'm in the car parts business, and installers don't think much of
|| customers
|| who bring their own parts
||
|| Rex B
||
||
||And there's the rub. But cash talks, and if you want to find an installer,
||you can usually always find someone who wants to and knows how to install
||anything. I would ask questions of those you find, and make sure who you
||select knows what they are doing, but since you will be getting a big chunk
||cut off the price, you can't get TOO selective. Do some research ahead of
||time, to know what to expect, and stay on top of things during the
||installation.
||
||Just as you would for wood, block, brick, whatever, ask the supplier if he
||can give you any names of people they use who are in the biz. Usually you
||don't have to go very far.
||
||You are in the driver's seat now.
||
||Steve
||
||

Texas Parts Guy