I need to make a 5" round hole in the back of a brand new table saw
cabinet. I don't have a regular hole saw,but have one of those
adjusable ones that has a 1/8" tool bit in the end of the arm. The
metal that I am cutting through is about 1/16" steel. I have a jigsaw
but figured this might cut a neater hole? any input? keith

Suggest you lay tablesaw in such a manner that surface you want hole in is
horizontal,
then drill couple of 1/4 inch diameter holes on inside periphery of your
desired hole, and
have at it with jig saw. Take your time, and be prepared to go through a
couple of
blades. I like to glue a piece of paper on surface, then scribe circle
with regular compass.

Carefully staying on inside (or outside) of scribed circle will give pretty
neat hole. Smooth
it up with a sanding drum in your hand drill.

Good luck!
"keith" wrote in message
om...
I need to make a 5" round hole in the back of a brand new table saw
cabinet. I don't have a regular hole saw,but have one of those
adjusable ones that has a 1/8" tool bit in the end of the arm. The
metal that I am cutting through is about 1/16" steel. I have a jigsaw
but figured this might cut a neater hole? any input? keith

On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 14:27:11 -0800, keith wrote:

I need to make a 5" round hole in the back of a brand new table saw
cabinet. I don't have a regular hole saw,but have one of those adjusable
ones that has a 1/8" tool bit in the end of the arm. The metal that I am
cutting through is about 1/16" steel. I have a jigsaw but figured this
might cut a neater hole? any input? keith

A variable speed jigsaw set to the lowest speed is going to be a lot safer
than a 5" hole saw and incredibly safer than a fly-cutter. An alternative,
if you know an electrician with a really good set of punches would be a 5"
chassis punch.

--
The instructions said to use Windows 98 or better, so I installed RedHat.

"keith" wrote in message
om...
I need to make a 5" round hole in the back of a brand new table saw
cabinet. I don't have a regular hole saw,but have one of those
adjusable ones that has a 1/8" tool bit in the end of the arm. The
metal that I am cutting through is about 1/16" steel. I have a jigsaw
but figured this might cut a neater hole? any input? keith

I installed my own 3 phase service in the shop, including mounting the CT
can and cutting needed holes for TA fittings in various steel cabinets,
which I gather would be much like your saw cabinet. Considering I had
nothing but the type cutter you describe, and a ½" VSR drill motor to
accomplish the task, I ground what would best be described as a somewhat
narrow parting tool, short, with a lead on the cutting edge such that it cut
deeper at the outside edge so it would not leave anything in the hole when
the center come out.

As long as you can keep a portion of the shank in the ¼" drilled center
hole, you'll be pleasantly surprised that you can fly cut the holes with
little difficulty. Run your drill quite slowly, don't apply too much
pressure, and more or less let the setup sort of pivot about center. Keep
an eye on where you need to cut, for it will likely break through on one
place, so you sort of have to encourage it to cut where there is more
material and ignore places that have cut through. When you break through in
various places, I found it was smart to stop and simply break out the
remainder of the piece with a hammer. By then it comes out very easily, and
prevents you from breaking the tool when the center comes out.

I have flycut several holes in this manner with outstanding success. You
may have to regrind a tool or two because you get heavy handed and break
them, but otherwise it works very well. Far better than a hole saw, which
generally cuts almost any sized hole but the one you want.

Good luck!

Harold

I don't know of many electricians with a 5" KO punch ... even if you got
hold of on it would be about 5.5" because that's about the OD of 5" conduit.
I never ran anything over 4" but if you punch anything over 2" you need a
hydraulic set.
If you tried to pull a 5" using a wrench it would have to be at least 20"
long ... then you would turn the band saw over the first turn you made.
Spend the money and buy the Hole saw ... if it's to much then rent it

Good Luck
Tom


"Jim Levie" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 14:27:11 -0800, keith wrote:

I need to make a 5" round hole in the back of a brand new table saw
cabinet. I don't have a regular hole saw,but have one of those adjusable
ones that has a 1/8" tool bit in the end of the arm. The metal that I am
cutting through is about 1/16" steel. I have a jigsaw but figured this
might cut a neater hole? any input? keith

A variable speed jigsaw set to the lowest speed is going to be a lot safer
than a 5" hole saw and incredibly safer than a fly-cutter. An alternative,
if you know an electrician with a really good set of punches would be a 5"
chassis punch.

--
The instructions said to use Windows 98 or better, so I installed RedHat.

If you have a Harbor Freight near you, I would suggest waiting for a sale
and getting a set of carbon steel hole saws for $3.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=36222

"keith" wrote in message
om...
I need to make a 5" round hole in the back of a brand new table saw
cabinet. I don't have a regular hole saw,but have one of those
adjusable ones that has a 1/8" tool bit in the end of the arm. The
metal that I am cutting through is about 1/16" steel. I have a jigsaw
but figured this might cut a neater hole? any input? keith

In article 22xrd.16548$%C6.2680@trnddc02,
invntrr wrote:
I don't know of many electricians with a 5" KO punch ... even if you got
hold of on it would be about 5.5" because that's about the OD of 5" conduit.
I never ran anything over 4" but if you punch anything over 2" you need a
hydraulic set.
If you tried to pull a 5" using a wrench it would have to be at least 20"
long ... then you would turn the band saw over the first turn you made.
Spend the money and buy the Hole saw ... if it's to much then rent it

We don't know how thick the metal is -- or what metal (though
steel is pretty likely, and I suspect something like perhaps 20 ga --
unless it is structural as well.

And I've punched 3"+ holes in the bottom of a relay rack cabinet
with a knockout punch and a 1/2" drive ratchet wrench set. Not fun, but
it can be done. This was with the ball thrust bearing drive screw, not
the plain bolt, which made it a bit easier.

And the rack had only two PCs in it -- plus about twenty very
small (U.S. Robotics) modems, so there wasn't much mass there.

If the hole is in a vertical panel (as I believe was the case),
a ratchet would do the job -- just orient it to apply force downward and
you are unlikely to topple the bandsaw. With an open-end or a box
wrench you would have to keep taking it off and repositioning it to keep
the handle close to horizontal, but with a ratchet, you are fine.

Granted, hydraulics are nicer -- but they are not absolutely
necessary.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

I go with what Harold said, except substitute the center drill for a piece
of round stock to run in a pre-drilled hole. This works better on either a
fly cutter or on a hole saw. It helps prevent side wandering. Wear ear
plugs, the screeching is hell.

RJ

--
tagline
"Have no one say it, and say it to your shame, that all was well here, until
YOU came."




"Harold & Susan Vordos" wrote in message
...

"keith" wrote in message
om...
I need to make a 5" round hole in the back of a brand new table saw
cabinet. I don't have a regular hole saw,but have one of those
adjusable ones that has a 1/8" tool bit in the end of the arm. The
metal that I am cutting through is about 1/16" steel. I have a jigsaw
but figured this might cut a neater hole? any input? keith

I installed my own 3 phase service in the shop, including mounting the CT
can and cutting needed holes for TA fittings in various steel cabinets,
which I gather would be much like your saw cabinet. Considering I had
nothing but the type cutter you describe, and a ½" VSR drill motor to
accomplish the task, I ground what would best be described as a somewhat
narrow parting tool, short, with a lead on the cutting edge such that it
cut
deeper at the outside edge so it would not leave anything in the hole when
the center come out.

As long as you can keep a portion of the shank in the ¼" drilled center
hole, you'll be pleasantly surprised that you can fly cut the holes with
little difficulty. Run your drill quite slowly, don't apply too much
pressure, and more or less let the setup sort of pivot about center. Keep
an eye on where you need to cut, for it will likely break through on one
place, so you sort of have to encourage it to cut where there is more
material and ignore places that have cut through. When you break through
in
various places, I found it was smart to stop and simply break out the
remainder of the piece with a hammer. By then it comes out very easily,
and
prevents you from breaking the tool when the center comes out.

I have flycut several holes in this manner with outstanding success. You
may have to regrind a tool or two because you get heavy handed and break
them, but otherwise it works very well. Far better than a hole saw, which
generally cuts almost any sized hole but the one you want.

Good luck!

Harold

"Backlash" wrote in message
...
I go with what Harold said, except substitute the center drill for a piece
of round stock to run in a pre-drilled hole. This works better on either a
fly cutter or on a hole saw. It helps prevent side wandering. Wear ear
plugs, the screeching is hell.

RJ

Yep, what RJ said. That's why I suggested that at least a portion of the
shank of the drill be used in the hole. A piece of stock in place of the
drill shank guarantees success. To insure longevity, a dowel pin or piece
of drill blank is even better.

Harold