I can just grab a piece of tool steel and go stand in front of the
grinder for a while, but I was wondering if there is a simple elegant,
not over priced tool to do the job. Ring groove will likely be 1.1"
give or take.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
I can just grab a piece of tool steel and go stand in front of the
grinder for a while, but I was wondering if there is a simple
elegant, not over priced tool to do the job. Ring groove will
likely be 1.1" give or take.


https://www.sandvik.coromant.com/en-...ing-tools.aspx

The ones I bought in a second-hand tool store look like the CoroTurn
XS, ground from solid rod.

On 28/07/2019 22:02, Bob La Londe wrote:
I can just grab a piece of tool steel and go stand in front of the
grinder for a while, but I was wondering if there is a simple elegant,
not over priced tool to do the job.Â*Â* Ring groove will likely be 1.1"
give or take.

If not large quantities why not grind a HSS or carbide bit to suit a
boring bar which can hold a bit at 90 degrees to the bar axis. I have a
number of bits for such tasks for internal threading or grooving. This
type of thing
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19-MM-BOR...pid=1188831138

On Sun, 28 Jul 2019 14:02:52 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

I can just grab a piece of tool steel and go stand in front of the
grinder for a while, but I was wondering if there is a simple elegant,
not over priced tool to do the job. Ring groove will likely be 1.1"
give or take.
boring bar with square (cut-off) blade

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message ...

I can just grab a piece of tool steel and go stand in front of the
grinder for a while, but I was wondering if there is a simple elegant,
not over priced tool to do the job. Ring groove will likely be 1.1"
give or take.

**********
Seems the old school round boring bar with square broach and set screw might
be the best tool for this job. Atleast I can pregrind two or three HSS bits
the same for this if I wind up doing a bunch of them.

Now about face trepanning a recess that butts up against a shank diameter.
For now I have been using a hand ground brazed carbide inside threading
tool. It no longer looks like a theading tool and has relief on one side
for the smallest diameter of the recessed area.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message ...

I can just grab a piece of tool steel and go stand in front of the
grinder for a while, but I was wondering if there is a simple
elegant,
not over priced tool to do the job. Ring groove will likely be
1.1"
give or take.

**********
Seems the old school round boring bar with square broach and set
screw might be the best tool for this job. Atleast I can pregrind
two or three HSS bits the same for this if I wind up doing a bunch
of them.

Now about face trepanning a recess that butts up against a shank
diameter. For now I have been using a hand ground brazed carbide
inside threading tool. It no longer looks like a theading tool and
has relief on one side for the smallest diameter of the recessed
area.

I use a worn surface grinder I bought for $100 to grind lathe bits to
close angular and dimensional tolerance, after roughing them with an
angle grinder and then a bench grinder.

If your toolpost will swivel to it, 45 degrees is a good tool bit
angle for custom inside corner tools, ground into the end of the bit.
For that tool grind the end slightly less than 45 degrees for side
relief and grind a vee notch to form the outer cutting edge, then
relieve for circular clearance. I have a Multifix that indexes in 9
degree steps.

On 7/30/2019 4:49 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message ...

I can just grab a piece of tool steel and go stand in front of the
grinder for a while, but I was wondering if there is a simple
elegant,
not over priced tool to do the job. Ring groove will likely be
1.1"
give or take.

**********
Seems the old school round boring bar with square broach and set
screw might be the best tool for this job. Atleast I can pregrind
two or three HSS bits the same for this if I wind up doing a bunch
of them.

Now about face trepanning a recess that butts up against a shank
diameter. For now I have been using a hand ground brazed carbide
inside threading tool. It no longer looks like a theading tool and
has relief on one side for the smallest diameter of the recessed
area.

I use a worn surface grinder I bought for $100 to grind lathe bits to
close angular and dimensional tolerance, after roughing them with an
angle grinder and then a bench grinder.

If your toolpost will swivel to it, 45 degrees is a good tool bit
angle for custom inside corner tools, ground into the end of the bit.
For that tool grind the end slightly less than 45 degrees for side
relief and grind a vee notch to form the outer cutting edge, then
relieve for circular clearance. I have a Multifix that indexes in 9
degree steps.



The QCTP on the PM1440 free spins so I can set it at any angle. I can
see how turning it would work with the 45 degree bar. The lathe bit
would have to stick out a little more, but it would work.

I've been playing with the idea of CNC roughing the part on the mill,
and then just throwing it in the lathe to finish. Maybe leave the OD 10
thou over, and the ID 10 thou under on the two dimensions that need to
be pretty concentric and just finish those on the lathe.

On Sunday, July 28, 2019 at 2:02:55 PM UTC-7, Bob La Londe wrote:
I can just grab a piece of tool steel and go stand in front of the
grinder for a while, but I was wondering if there is a simple elegant,
not over priced tool to do the job. Ring groove will likely be 1.1"
give or take.

If it were for a big bore cylinder, I'd consider a slitting saw blade with
suitable width, even if it were broken (just choose a good tooth, and take aim).
Hand-sharpening a square cutter for a composite boring bar could
work, but it's not something where I can really see the cut, so if I sharpen
it wrong... how would I ever be able to correct it?

"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Sunday, July 28, 2019 at 2:02:55 PM UTC-7, Bob La Londe wrote:
I can just grab a piece of tool steel and go stand in front of the
grinder for a while, but I was wondering if there is a simple
elegant,
not over priced tool to do the job. Ring groove will likely be
1.1"
give or take.

If it were for a big bore cylinder, I'd consider a slitting saw
blade with
suitable width, even if it were broken (just choose a good tooth,
and take aim).
Hand-sharpening a square cutter for a composite boring bar could
work, but it's not something where I can really see the cut, so if I
sharpen
it wrong... how would I ever be able to correct it?

The lathe dial gives you the depth of the groove and these can measure
its width and position:
https://ecatalog.mitutoyo.com/Groove...146-C1131.aspx

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...

On 7/30/2019 4:49 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...

I can just grab a piece of tool steel and go stand in front of
the
grinder for a while, but I was wondering if there is a simple
elegant,
not over priced tool to do the job. Ring groove will likely be
1.1"
give or take.

**********
Seems the old school round boring bar with square broach and set
screw might be the best tool for this job. Atleast I can
pregrind
two or three HSS bits the same for this if I wind up doing a
bunch
of them.

Now about face trepanning a recess that butts up against a shank
diameter. For now I have been using a hand ground brazed carbide
inside threading tool. It no longer looks like a theading tool
and
has relief on one side for the smallest diameter of the recessed
area.

I use a worn surface grinder I bought for $100 to grind lathe bits
to
close angular and dimensional tolerance, after roughing them with
an
angle grinder and then a bench grinder.

If your toolpost will swivel to it, 45 degrees is a good tool bit
angle for custom inside corner tools, ground into the end of the
bit.
For that tool grind the end slightly less than 45 degrees for side
relief and grind a vee notch to form the outer cutting edge, then
relieve for circular clearance. I have a Multifix that indexes in
9
degree steps.



The QCTP on the PM1440 free spins so I can set it at any angle. I
can see how turning it would work with the 45 degree bar. The lathe
bit would have to stick out a little more, but it would work.

I've been playing with the idea of CNC roughing the part on the
mill, and then just throwing it in the lathe to finish. Maybe leave
the OD 10 thou over, and the ID 10 thou under on the two dimensions
that need to be pretty concentric and just finish those on the
lathe.


I use the appropriate hole in a drill bit gauge or a washer to show
when I've hand ground enough circular relief below the cutting edge.