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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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spray paint can tip
Just had quite the battle with a clogged up spray paint can. Something
(paint solids?) was clogging the tube that goes up tube in the can. I though it was the nozzle at first, so I tried another one. Short story is brake cleaner will REALLY clean those nozzles out fast. A little spray and a few minutes will make dried enamel just flakes off those nozzles too. It works way better than a soak of mineral spirits, which mostly does nothing to dried paint anyways. Since many cans now spray upside down, the old trick of clean out the nozzle with just some propellant doesn't work anymore anyways. |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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spray paint can tip
"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message
news Just had quite the battle with a clogged up spray paint can. Something (paint solids?) was clogging the tube that goes up tube in the can. I though it was the nozzle at first, so I tried another one. Short story is brake cleaner will REALLY clean those nozzles out fast. A little spray and a few minutes will make dried enamel just flakes off those nozzles too. It works way better than a soak of mineral spirits, which mostly does nothing to dried paint anyways. Since many cans now spray upside down, the old trick of clean out the nozzle with just some propellant doesn't work anymore anyways. I'm working on car rustouts with several sprays and have been removing the nozzles and dripping solvent through them with an eyedropper or lighter fluid can. 3M Cavity Wax and Bondo Glass look good so far (1 week) in the salt water test, rust converter not so much, and the epoxy I used last time as filler had broken loose. Recently purchased LPS-3 isn't as effective as what I bought in the 90's. -jsw |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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spray paint can tip
On Sat, 9 Sep 2017 23:18:22 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote: Just had quite the battle with a clogged up spray paint can. Something (paint solids?) was clogging the tube that goes up tube in the can. I though it was the nozzle at first, so I tried another one. Short story is brake cleaner will REALLY clean those nozzles out fast. A little spray and a few minutes will make dried enamel just flakes off those nozzles too. It works way better than a soak of mineral spirits, which mostly does nothing to dried paint anyways. Since many cans now spray upside down, the old trick of clean out the nozzle with just some propellant doesn't work anymore anyways. I soak them in brake fluid then blow them clean. |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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spray paint can tip
Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message news Just had quite the battle with a clogged up spray paint can. Something (paint solids?) was clogging the tube that goes up tube in the can. I though it was the nozzle at first, so I tried another one. Short story is brake cleaner will REALLY clean those nozzles out fast. A little spray and a few minutes will make dried enamel just flakes off those nozzles too. It works way better than a soak of mineral spirits, which mostly does nothing to dried paint anyways. Since many cans now spray upside down, the old trick of clean out the nozzle with just some propellant doesn't work anymore anyways. I'm working on car rustouts with several sprays and have been removing the nozzles and dripping solvent through them with an eyedropper or lighter fluid can. I should try lighter fluid on the next round of gummed up nozzles. Pretty sure brake cleaner is cheaper when it's on sale at the auto parts place though. 3M Cavity Wax and Bondo Glass look good so far (1 week) in the salt water test, rust converter not so much, and the epoxy I used last time as filler had broken loose. Recently purchased LPS-3 isn't as effective as what I bought in the 90's. Any idea what changed in the lps-3 stuff? I grabbed a can of the CRC SP-400 corrosion inhibitor to play with. It smells so bad it's barely usable though. Not sure what the "perfume" in the LPS line is, but it's tolerable. LPS-1 even smells nice. |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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spray paint can tip
"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message
news Jim Wilkins wrote: "Cydrome Leader" wrote in message news Just had quite the battle with a clogged up spray paint can. Something (paint solids?) was clogging the tube that goes up tube in the can. I though it was the nozzle at first, so I tried another one. Short story is brake cleaner will REALLY clean those nozzles out fast. A little spray and a few minutes will make dried enamel just flakes off those nozzles too. It works way better than a soak of mineral spirits, which mostly does nothing to dried paint anyways. Since many cans now spray upside down, the old trick of clean out the nozzle with just some propellant doesn't work anymore anyways. I'm working on car rustouts with several sprays and have been removing the nozzles and dripping solvent through them with an eyedropper or lighter fluid can. I should try lighter fluid on the next round of gummed up nozzles. Pretty sure brake cleaner is cheaper when it's on sale at the auto parts place though. 3M Cavity Wax and Bondo Glass look good so far (1 week) in the salt water test, rust converter not so much, and the epoxy I used last time as filler had broken loose. Recently purchased LPS-3 isn't as effective as what I bought in the 90's. Any idea what changed in the lps-3 stuff? I grabbed a can of the CRC SP-400 corrosion inhibitor to play with. It smells so bad it's barely usable though. Not sure what the "perfume" in the LPS line is, but it's tolerable. LPS-1 even smells nice. IIRC the MSDS for LPS-3 used to list an organic amine but no longer mentions any specific corrosion inhibitor, while 3M Cavity Wax does, as a Trade Secret. Lighter fluid works for sprays that contain petroleum distillates. I began as a chemist and can tell from the label or the smell which type of solvent is appropriate. Google is refusing to return any help on distinguishing them. -jsw |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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spray paint can tip
On Sat, 09 Sep 2017 23:46:40 -0400, Gerry
wrote: On Sat, 9 Sep 2017 23:18:22 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: Just had quite the battle with a clogged up spray paint can. Something (paint solids?) was clogging the tube that goes up tube in the can. I though it was the nozzle at first, so I tried another one. Short story is brake cleaner will REALLY clean those nozzles out fast. A little spray and a few minutes will make dried enamel just flakes off those nozzles too. It works way better than a soak of mineral spirits, which mostly does nothing to dried paint anyways. Since many cans now spray upside down, the old trick of clean out the nozzle with just some propellant doesn't work anymore anyways. I soak them in brake fluid then blow them clean. I've used lacquer thinner before, but will consider the brake fluid, too. I soak it overnight, then clean in the morning. To ease the loss of a few tips, I found a vendor on Ebay which sold lots of ten of each of 5 styles/sizes/tip shapes for a few bucks and bought some. This covers me for everything from lacquer to spray glue tips. http://tinyurl.com/hz9smop - A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects. -Robert A. Heinlein |
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