"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message
news
Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message
news
Just had quite the battle with a clogged up spray paint can.
Something
(paint solids?) was clogging the tube that goes up tube in the
can.
I
though it was the nozzle at first, so I tried another one.

Short story is brake cleaner will REALLY clean those nozzles out
fast. A
little spray and a few minutes will make dried enamel just flakes
off
those nozzles too.

It works way better than a soak of mineral spirits, which mostly
does
nothing to dried paint anyways. Since many cans now spray upside
down, the
old trick of clean out the nozzle with just some propellant
doesn't
work
anymore anyways.


I'm working on car rustouts with several sprays and have been
removing
the nozzles and dripping solvent through them with an eyedropper or
lighter fluid can.

I should try lighter fluid on the next round of gummed up nozzles.
Pretty
sure brake cleaner is cheaper when it's on sale at the auto parts
place
though.

3M Cavity Wax and Bondo Glass look good so far (1 week) in the
salt
water test, rust converter not so much, and the epoxy I used last
time
as filler had broken loose. Recently purchased LPS-3 isn't as
effective as what I bought in the 90's.

Any idea what changed in the lps-3 stuff?

I grabbed a can of the CRC SP-400 corrosion inhibitor to play with.
It
smells so bad it's barely usable though. Not sure what the "perfume"
in
the LPS line is, but it's tolerable. LPS-1 even smells nice.

IIRC the MSDS for LPS-3 used to list an organic amine but no longer
mentions any specific corrosion inhibitor, while 3M Cavity Wax does,
as a Trade Secret.

Lighter fluid works for sprays that contain petroleum distillates. I
began as a chemist and can tell from the label or the smell which type
of solvent is appropriate. Google is refusing to return any help on
distinguishing them.
-jsw