Setting up to do some old school drafting for work. Was going to model
our ute trays in CAD, but nobody at work is remotely CAD savvy.
Everybody understands paper technology.
Anyway, lusted for a Vemcolite for years, found one just before moving
to AU. Would like to put it to use, wonder if it'll work OK on a step
down transformer?

Jon

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Saturday, September 9, 2017 at 2:26:57 AM UTC-4, Jon Anderson wrote:
Setting up to do some old school drafting for work. Was going to model
our ute trays in CAD, but nobody at work is remotely CAD savvy.
Everybody understands paper technology.
Anyway, lusted for a Vemcolite for years, found one just before moving
to AU. Would like to put it to use, wonder if it'll work OK on a step
down transformer?

Jon

I know nothing about a Vemcolite] so take this as something to check into rather than good advice.

But if it is just a light, I would think the right bulb would have it working on 240 volts 50 cycle. I would look at the LED bulbs and see if you can not get a bulb that will fit and work at your voltages.

Dan

On 9/09/2017 9:42 PM, wrote:

But if it is just a light, I would think the right bulb would have it working on 240 volts 50 cycle.
I would look at the LED bulbs and see if you can not get a bulb that will fit and work at your voltages.

Should have provided a bit more info. There's a center bulb that I think
runs straight line voltage, have to scope out the wiring to see. But the
issue at hand is the circular fluorescent bulb, the starter and
transformer, wondering if they'll function OK on 50Hz. Otherwise I'll
have to scrounge a used circular fixture and use the local flavor bits.
Have to go dig it out of storage and have a closer look at the wiring.

Jon


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On 09/10/2017 08:17 PM, Jon Anderson wrote:
On 9/09/2017 9:42 PM, wrote:

But if it is just a light, I would think the right bulb would have it
working on 240 volts 50 cycle. I would lookÂ* at the LED bulbs and see
if you can not get a bulb that will fit and work at your voltages.

Should have provided a bit more info. There's a center bulb that I think
runs straight line voltage, have to scope out the wiring to see. But the
issue at hand is the circular fluorescent bulb, the starter and
transformer, wondering if they'll function OK on 50Hz. Otherwise I'll
have to scrounge a used circular fixture and use the local flavor bits.
Have to go dig it out of storage and have a closer look at the wiring.

Jon

If there is a label left on the light, it will probably say 50-60Hz or
Cycles if it is rated for it.

BobH

On Sunday, September 10, 2017 at 11:17:09 PM UTC-4, Jon Anderson wrote:
On 9/09/2017 9:42 PM, wrote:

But if it is just a light, I would think the right bulb would have it working on 240 volts 50 cycle.
I would look at the LED bulbs and see if you can not get a bulb that will fit and work at your voltages.

Should have provided a bit more info. There's a center bulb that I think
runs straight line voltage, have to scope out the wiring to see. But the
issue at hand is the circular fluorescent bulb, the starter and
transformer, wondering if they'll function OK on 50Hz. Otherwise I'll
have to scrounge a used circular fixture and use the local flavor bits.
Have to go dig it out of storage and have a closer look at the wiring.

Jon


If the light worked on 120 volts 60 hertz power , you will need to change the ballast. _You should be able to find a ballast for that lamp that is for 240 volts and 50 cycle locally or maybe from Ebay or AliExpress.

Dan

Pulled the lamp out of storage, had a look.
In the base is a transformer, no voltage info.
Up in the head, is a 3 button switch. Center is off for both bulbs.
One turns on the conventional bulb. This should be no issue, can get
220v screw base bulbs here (bayonet more common).
There is no ballast that I can see, unless it's inside the switch which
seems unlikely. Switch body is 1.25 x .5 x .5, not much room inside!
So, what are my chances of getting this to work with a small travel type
step down transformer?

Just went looking, and found an LED conversion, 240v input. $32, plus
some rewiring, replacing switches, not a real big deal.
Think I'm going to go this route, but still interested in opinions on above.

Jon

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 08:45:30 +1000, Jon Anderson
wrote:

Pulled the lamp out of storage, had a look.
In the base is a transformer, no voltage info.
Up in the head, is a 3 button switch. Center is off for both bulbs.
One turns on the conventional bulb. This should be no issue, can get
220v screw base bulbs here (bayonet more common).
There is no ballast that I can see, unless it's inside the switch which
seems unlikely. Switch body is 1.25 x .5 x .5, not much room inside!
So, what are my chances of getting this to work with a small travel type
step down transformer?

Just went looking, and found an LED conversion, 240v input. $32, plus
some rewiring, replacing switches, not a real big deal.
Think I'm going to go this route, but still interested in opinions on above.

Jon

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
I think you will find that the "transformer" is actually the ballast
for the "circline" fluorescent tube. The button that controls this
part of the fixture may serve two functions - a. it controls on/off of
power to the ballast, or this could be a function of the button for
the incandescent bulb. b. it serves as a momentary contact to energize
the heater elements which create the mercury vapor conductive path in
the fluorescent tube.

On 17/09/2017 10:14 AM, Gerry wrote:

I think you will find that the "transformer" is actually the ballast
for the "circline" fluorescent tube. The button that controls this
part of the fixture may serve two functions - a. it controls on/off of
power to the ballast, or this could be a function of the button for
the incandescent bulb. b. it serves as a momentary contact to energize
the heater elements which create the mercury vapor conductive path in
the fluorescent tube.

Hmm, sure looks like a standard transformer! Made by Precision
Transformer. As for switches, one clicks on and stays on until turned
off by the center button. The other is momentary contact. Both bulbs can
be on at the same time, center button will turn both off.

Just bought the LED conversion, $36. Just have to head to Jaycar to buy
some suitable switches.

Jon



---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Sat, 16 Sep 2017 20:14:02 -0400, Gerry
wrote:

On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 08:45:30 +1000, Jon Anderson
wrote:

Pulled the lamp out of storage, had a look.
In the base is a transformer, no voltage info.
Up in the head, is a 3 button switch. Center is off for both bulbs.
One turns on the conventional bulb. This should be no issue, can get
220v screw base bulbs here (bayonet more common).
There is no ballast that I can see, unless it's inside the switch which
seems unlikely. Switch body is 1.25 x .5 x .5, not much room inside!
So, what are my chances of getting this to work with a small travel type
step down transformer?

Just went looking, and found an LED conversion, 240v input. $32, plus
some rewiring, replacing switches, not a real big deal.
Think I'm going to go this route, but still interested in opinions on above.

Jon

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
I think you will find that the "transformer" is actually the ballast
for the "circline" fluorescent tube. The button that controls this
part of the fixture may serve two functions - a. it controls on/off of
power to the ballast, or this could be a function of the button for
the incandescent bulb. b. it serves as a momentary contact to energize
the heater elements which create the mercury vapor conductive path in
the fluorescent tube.

Well said. Id use a small step down transformer (assuming your lamp
is 110vt) It will draw about .3 amp..and it will be the incandescent
bulb that draws most of it.