Hi folks,

I want to build an extra-wide vice (excuse the British spelling - for the American guys, I mean a "vise"). Something with roughly the dimensions of a Black & Decker "Workmate" (http://www.blackanddecker.com/en-us/...nd-vise/wm225), but mounted on a sturdy workbench.

Basically, I want to build a better version of the "Workmate" vice. This means a vice with jaws around 24 inches wide. The vice needs to be able to hold longer objects without additional support (e.g., wooden planks for planing). It will be used for both woodworking and metalworking tasks, but not for welding.

My priorities a

- The jaws should stay parallel
- It should be operable using a single handle
- It should be tough and exert a good clamping force
- It should move smoothly and not jam

I've already built a workbench frame. It's made to the same pattern as the bench I built a year ago, but I haven't fitted a wooden top yet. Here are pictures of the finished bench and unfinished steel frame:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ycbufnrkf5...bench.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cpw9tw82kf...frame.JPG?dl=0

I've thought hard about how to build the vice, and I've considered a bunch of ideas. Scissor mechanisms, linked screws, bell cranks, etc. I've only come up with one concept which I consider good. I'd like to use a pair of ball bearing slides under the bench frame to keep the vice moving parallel. Thing is, I'm not sure what the right kind of slides would be, or if I could afford them. Are there any guys with experience in linear motion who could help me?

Here are a couple of rough sketches of my concept:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ci3a3aebm1..._vice.pdf?dl=0

Two slide rails would be bolted to the underside of the bench frame (front to back). The bench frame is built from 100 x 50 mm steel channel section, so it's strong. Four ball bearing carriages (two for each rail) would be bolted to a thick steel plate, which would form the moving part of the vice. A very heavy length of angle (from a transmission tower or similar) would form the moving vice jaw, and the jaws would be lined with hardwood. I would buy a ready-made threaded spindle. As everything would be bolted together, it would allow all the components to be adjusted to ensure parallelism.

So I have a few questions:

- If I want a decent clamping force (say 1000 kgf), this will place a large moment on the ball bearing slides if an object is gripped off centre. If the object is right at the end of the jaws, this would create a moment of something like 3000 Nm on the base plate of the vice. That would create, at a guess, something like a 300 kgf sideways force on each of the ball bearing carriages. This is more or less an abuse situation, I know, but I want a strong vice. Are there any affordable slides which could carry this load, or a reasonable fraction of it? What would you recommend?

- The simplest construction would require a 50 cm unsupported rail length. Is this easy to achieve, or do the rails need closely spaced attachment points?

- Are there any simple alternatives I'm overlooking? Tracks for large up-and-over doors might work, but I'm not sure. Small iron wheels and rails?

- Are there any likely problems? Is this going to work?

I'd be pleased to hear from anyone with experience of linear motion components. If I can get the right components, I'm willing to spend a fair sum on them. I just want to build the ultimate extra-wide vice.

Best wishes,

Chris

"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...
Hi folks,
........
Chris

===============

Cam followers are a simple and reasonably priced way to run loads on
standard structural shapes.
http://machinedesign.com/linear-moti...lower-bearings
--jsw

Cam followers are a simple and reasonably priced way to run loads on
standard structural shapes.
http://machinedesign.com/linear-moti...lower-bearings

Thanks, Jim. They look interesting and pretty tough. Ever seen cam follower bearings with a flanged wheel? That would be handy so that a follower wheel with a vertical axis could follow a horizontal rail without falling down.

On Sunday, February 7, 2016 at 6:01:57 PM UTC-5, Christopher Tidy wrote:
Hi folks,


I'd be pleased to hear from anyone with experience of linear motion components. If I can get the right components, I'm willing to spend a fair sum on them. I just want to build the ultimate extra-wide vice.

Best wishes,

Chris

No experience, but take a look on Ebay and Alliexpress. You can find linear ball bearings and shafts of lots of sizes. I personally would use bronze bushing and not linear ball bushings. I think they would last longer with off center loads. And it is not as if you needed minimal friction.

Dan

"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...
Cam followers are a simple and reasonably priced way to run loads
on
standard structural shapes.
http://machinedesign.com/linear-moti...lower-bearings

Thanks, Jim. They look interesting and pretty tough. Ever seen cam
follower bearings with a flanged wheel? That would be handy so that
a follower wheel with a vertical axis could follow a horizontal rail
without falling down.

Loading needle bearings axially is asking for trouble. This is the
geometry you need to support loads on a horizontal rail.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-p...ley-97392.html

When I asked about boring a recess to press in a ball bearing last
spring I was making the wheels for a similar trolley with a frame that
bolts to HF's 1300 Lb electric hoist.

--jsw

On Sunday, February 7, 2016 at 3:01:57 PM UTC-8, Christopher Tidy wrote:

I want to build an extra-wide vice (excuse the British spelling - for the American guys, I mean a "vise"). Something with roughly the dimensions of a Black & Decker "Workmate"...

- The jaws should stay parallel
- It should be operable using a single handle
- It should be tough and exert a good clamping force
- It should move smoothly and not jam

I'd like to use a pair of ball bearing slides under the bench frame to keep the vice moving parallel. Thing is, I'm not sure what the right kind of slides would be, or if I could afford them. Are there any guys with experience in linear motion who could help me?

There's parallel left-right, and parallel face-vertical; the left-right can be handled with
pulleys and wire rope (like Mayline parallel-moving straightedges used for drafting/drawing).
For vertical tilt parallelism, most vises have heavy steel (and you don't want
that to be wide). Force (compression) at vise-faces causes torque around the
slide member (lower down) and you can only compensate that by two-member slides,
the top slide member being in tension, while a lower one is in compression.
Two or more force members, perhaps four hydraulic cyliinders; left and right top cylinders are
the slides, and act in tension, left and right lower cylinders are for torque balance
and act in compression.

Vise face verticality requires

F_work x D_work-to-slide = F_lower-cylinder x D_slide-to-lower

and compression balance with tension requires

F_work + F_lower-cylinder = F_slide_tension

.... all of which can be arranged with hydraulic cylinders and some valves and a pump.

I'm thinking most 'slides' are not intended to survive maybe a quarter ton of imbalanced
force, like a vise might exert. Balancing the forces is a light structure alternative.

On Sun, 7 Feb 2016 15:01:46 -0800 (PST), Christopher Tidy
wrote:

Hi folks,

I want to build an extra-wide vice (excuse the British spelling - for the American guys, I mean a "vise"). Something with roughly the dimensions of a Black & Decker "Workmate" (http://www.blackanddecker.com/en-us/...nd-vise/wm225), but mounted on a sturdy workbench.

'sOK. We can deal with all your vices.


Basically, I want to build a better version of the "Workmate" vice. This means a vice with jaws around 24 inches wide. The vice needs to be able to hold longer objects without additional support (e.g., wooden planks for planing). It will be used for both woodworking and metalworking tasks, but not for welding.

My priorities a

- The jaws should stay parallel
- It should be operable using a single handle
- It should be tough and exert a good clamping force
- It should move smoothly and not jam

Lee Valley Tools has a twin screw vise which might work for you:
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...=1,41637,45114
Chain drive for parallel operation/1-handle use.

Or go there and search for "vise" to see their large selection.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/Search.aspx?action=n

You could probably put longer jaw inserts in a little $700 Tucker
vise.

--
I would be the most content if my children grew up to be the kind of people
who think decorating consists mostly of building enough bookshelves.
-- Anna Quindlen

On Sun, 7 Feb 2016 15:01:46 -0800 (PST), Christopher Tidy
wrote:

Hi folks,

I want to build an extra-wide vice (excuse the British spelling - for the American guys, I mean a "vise"). Something with roughly the dimensions of a Black & Decker "Workmate" (http://www.blackanddecker.com/en-us/...nd-vise/wm225), but mounted on a sturdy workbench.

Basically, I want to build a better version of the "Workmate" vice. This means a vice with jaws around 24 inches wide. The vice needs to be able to hold longer objects without additional support (e.g., wooden planks for planing). It will be used for both woodworking and metalworking tasks, but not for welding.

My priorities a

- The jaws should stay parallel
- It should be operable using a single handle
- It should be tough and exert a good clamping force
- It should move smoothly and not jam

I've already built a workbench frame. It's made to the same pattern as the bench I built a year ago, but I haven't fitted a wooden top yet. Here are pictures of the finished bench and unfinished steel frame:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ycbufnrkf5...bench.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cpw9tw82kf...frame.JPG?dl=0

I've thought hard about how to build the vice, and I've considered a bunch of ideas. Scissor mechanisms, linked screws, bell cranks, etc. I've only come up with one concept which I consider good. I'd like to use a pair of ball bearing slides under the bench frame to keep the vice moving parallel. Thing is, I'm not sure what the right kind of slides would be, or if I could afford them. Are there any guys with experience in linear motion who could help me?

Here are a couple of rough sketches of my concept:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ci3a3aebm1..._vice.pdf?dl=0

Two slide rails would be bolted to the underside of the bench frame (front to back). The bench frame is built from 100 x 50 mm steel channel section, so it's strong. Four ball bearing carriages (two for each rail) would be bolted to a thick steel plate, which would form the moving part of the vice. A very heavy length of angle (from a transmission tower or similar) would form the moving vice jaw, and the jaws would be lined with hardwood. I would buy a ready-made threaded spindle. As everything would be bolted together, it would allow all the components to be adjusted to ensure parallelism.

So I have a few questions:

- If I want a decent clamping force (say 1000 kgf), this will place a large moment on the ball bearing slides if an object is gripped off centre. If the object is right at the end of the jaws, this would create a moment of something like 3000 Nm on the base plate of the vice. That would create, at a guess, something like a 300 kgf sideways force on each of the ball bearing carriages. This is more or less an abuse situation, I know, but I want a strong vice. Are there any affordable slides which could carry this load, or a reasonable fraction of it? What would you recommend?

- The simplest construction would require a 50 cm unsupported rail length. Is this easy to achieve, or do the rails need closely spaced attachment points?

- Are there any simple alternatives I'm overlooking? Tracks for large up-and-over doors might work, but I'm not sure. Small iron wheels and rails?

- Are there any likely problems? Is this going to work?

I'd be pleased to hear from anyone with experience of linear motion components. If I can get the right components, I'm willing to spend a fair sum on them. I just want to build the ultimate extra-wide vice.

Best wishes,

Chris


I think using a single screw and parallel slides will cause a lot of
binding with any off center clamping. Also, the parallel slides will
have to be really parallel to not bind. Using two screws and tying
together with chain or timing belt would probably work better.

Pete Keillor

On Mon, 08 Feb 2016 07:09:41 -0600
Pete Keillor wrote:

huge snip
I think using a single screw and parallel slides will cause a lot of
binding with any off center clamping. Also, the parallel slides will
have to be really parallel to not bind. Using two screws and tying
together with chain or timing belt would probably work better.

The more expensive B&D Workmates use a loose belt to tie the two hand
cranks together. Turning one crank then moves both until some
resistance is met. Then you need to turn each crank individually for
maximum holding strength. These usually have a mechanism to flip up one
of the clamping boards to the 90 degree position too. A lot less throat
capacity in that mode though...

I have three different tables like the basic Workmate. Two Wolfcraft
models and a cheap one from Harbor Freight. The Wolfcraft are pretty
nice and very similar to the basic B&D models. One of them has a table
that can be tilted/turned to 90 deg and height adjustable.

The cheap HF is serving duty as a night stand in the bedroom right now
though. Never got the chance to use that one as intended and probably
never will ;-)

I would just copy any of the Workmate table mechanisms using stronger
material rather than a plastic bearing & handles. It would be more than
strong enough for Chris's purpose and easy enough to do. Harbor Freight
has an assembly/part manual online that shows the gist of it...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Thanks for all the ideas. Jim's suggestion of the cam follower bearings and Dan's comment about the friction gave me some fresh inspiration. I have a long length of 75 x 12 mm flat steel bar lying around. How about a design using flat steel bars as rails? Something like this sketch:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/khx7rdw5od..._bars.pdf?dl=0

The idea of turning up the eccentric bushes to permit adjustment came from Jim's cam followers (they are nice, but too expensive).

As with the other sketch, the width isn't to scale. It would be almost twice as wide. What do people think? Would it work?

Chris

Lee Valley Tools has a twin screw vise which might work for you:
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...=1,41637,45114
Chain drive for parallel operation/1-handle use.

Or go there and search for "vise" to see their large selection.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/Search.aspx?action=n

Yes, but I want to build the vice myself. Know the feeling?

Am Montag, 8. Februar 2016 15:46:30 UTC+1 schrieb Leon Fisk:

The more expensive B&D Workmates use a loose belt to tie the two hand
cranks together. Turning one crank then moves both until some
resistance is met. Then you need to turn each crank individually for
maximum holding strength. These usually have a mechanism to flip up one
of the clamping boards to the 90 degree position too. A lot less throat
capacity in that mode though...

That's interesting. Anyone got a link to the picture of the loose belt arrangement? I'd link to see that.

On Mon, 8 Feb 2016 10:38:52 -0800 (PST)
Christopher Tidy wrote:

Am Montag, 8. Februar 2016 15:46:30 UTC+1 schrieb Leon Fisk:

The more expensive B&D Workmates use a loose belt to tie the two hand
cranks together. Turning one crank then moves both until some
resistance is met. Then you need to turn each crank individually for
maximum holding strength. These usually have a mechanism to flip up one
of the clamping boards to the 90 degree position too. A lot less throat
capacity in that mode though...

That's interesting. Anyone got a link to the picture of the loose belt arrangement? I'd link to see that.

Website:

http://www.blackanddecker.com/en-us/...and-vise/wm425

Parts for WM425:

http://servicenet.blackanddecker.com...ocumentId=1271

User manual:

http://servicenet.blackanddecker.com...4104,WM425.pdf

Parts for BDST11000:

http://servicenet.blackanddecker.com...cumentId=44459

User manual:

http://servicenet.blackanddecker.com...,BDST11000.pdf

They also have a UK website:

www.blackanddecker.co.uk

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Monday, February 8, 2016 at 1:36:14 PM UTC-5, Christopher Tidy wrote:
Thanks for all the ideas. Jim's suggestion of the cam follower bearings and Dan's comment about the friction gave me some fresh inspiration. I have a long length of 75 x 12 mm flat steel bar lying around. How about a design using flat steel bars as rails? Something like this sketch:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/khx7rdw5od..._bars.pdf?dl=0

The idea of turning up the eccentric bushes to permit adjustment came from Jim's cam followers (they are nice, but too expensive).

As with the other sketch, the width isn't to scale. It would be almost twice as wide. What do people think? Would it work?

Chris

I think it would work. I would not bother with the eccentric bushings. In any case you need the sides of the middle plate parallel. So you could just put a shim made of paper ( so you end up with a little clearance.) clamp the bars to the plate and match drill.

If you do use the eccentric bushings, you really only need the adjustment on one rail.

Dan

On Monday, February 8, 2016 at 10:36:14 AM UTC-8, Christopher Tidy wrote:
Thanks for all the ideas. Jim's suggestion of the cam follower bearings and Dan's comment about the friction gave me some fresh inspiration. I have a long length of 75 x 12 mm flat steel bar lying around. How about a design using flat steel bars as rails? Something like this sketch:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/khx7rdw5od..._bars.pdf?dl=0

The steel plate is very ineffective in that orientation; it is stiff against vise left/right twist,
but not against vise top/bottom twist. A deeper structural member (maybe just a few
sections of C-shape stuff: unistrut/superstrut is inexpensive and available) would
be preferable.
Recall that 'bar clamp' devices always have the bar in the up-down orientation, not left-right.

Am Montag, 8. Februar 2016 20:18:49 UTC+1 schrieb Leon Fisk:

Website:

http://www.blackanddecker.com/en-us/...and-vise/wm425

Thanks for the links. I had seen pictures of that model before, but had overlooked the mechanism linking the cranks. It looks a little flimsy in comparison to the older Workmates.

Am Montag, 8. Februar 2016 22:14:51 UTC+1 schrieb :

I think it would work. I would not bother with the eccentric bushings. In any case you need the sides of the middle plate parallel. So you could just put a shim made of paper ( so you end up with a little clearance.) clamp the bars to the plate and match drill.

If you do use the eccentric bushings, you really only need the adjustment on one rail.

My thinking with four eccentrics is that I could ensure the first rail is perpendicular to the front of the bench, then adjust the second rail to get it parallel to the first, and correctly spaced.

I'm not sure if the eccentrics are necessary. If the whole frame was permanently welded together, I'm sure they'd be overkill. But as the frame will be dismantled and reassembled from time to time (when I move house), there's a chance the rail attachment holes will move slightly.

The steel plate is very ineffective in that orientation; it is stiff against vise left/right twist,
but not against vise top/bottom twist.

I know what you mean. It isn't a highly optimised design, but it's got to be easy to build with my tools in a few days.

I think a thick plate will be OK (especially as the vice spindle is above the plate, closer to the object being gripped), but I'll do a rough calculation to see what angle the front jaw will move through before I order the parts to build it.

By the way, I'm basically looking to build a wider and sturdier version of this vice:
http://www.holzundlicht.de/Sjoebergs...160--1393.html

On Mon, 8 Feb 2016 10:37:42 -0800 (PST), Christopher Tidy
wrote:

Lee Valley Tools has a twin screw vise which might work for you:
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...=1,41637,45114
Chain drive for parallel operation/1-handle use.

Or go there and search for "vise" to see their large selection.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/Search.aspx?action=n

Yes, but I want to build the vice myself. Know the feeling?

Ayup. Gonna cast the flanges and mill the threads yourself, too?
If not, LVT has the basic metal parts. You build the vise itself.

--
I would be the most content if my children grew up to be the kind of people
who think decorating consists mostly of building enough bookshelves.
-- Anna Quindlen

On 2016-02-08, Christopher Tidy wrote:
Am Montag, 8. Februar 2016 15:46:30 UTC+1 schrieb Leon Fisk:

The more expensive B&D Workmates use a loose belt to tie the two hand
cranks together. Turning one crank then moves both until some
resistance is met. Then you need to turn each crank individually for
maximum holding strength. These usually have a mechanism to flip up one
of the clamping boards to the 90 degree position too. A lot less throat
capacity in that mode though...

That's interesting. Anyone got a link to the picture of the loose belt
arrangement? I'd link to see that.

Not a picture -- but I have one of those WorkMates. The belt is
sort of a flat belt with holes punched in it going between the two
cranks, with the right crank preferred by shape for the general default
use.

The belt goes through the metal channel just behind the cranks,
and beyond a certain torque will climb over the gear on each screw and
slip one hole at a time. The belt is loose enough so the center is
sort of pinched together between the two screws.

I would love to have one built to better standards, but the
WorkMate has some nice features, such as a base that it folds down to,
and some extra folding legs, so you can raise it by about 8" or so.
There is a step on the front, so you can use a foot to hold it down
while sawing something held in it.

But the table top sections are made of laminated cardboard and
have drooped between the rails somewhat. My other (older) WorkMate
appears to have Bakelite for the table top sections. That one came from
Home Despot, while the fancy one came from an estate sale. Looking up
the manual PDF files on the B&D site shows only one early version had
the belt connecting the two screws.

O.K. The following site has an exploded diagram. Note that the
belt/chain is twisted, so you see only a loop at the ends. It is part
26 in the drawing.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/black-and-decker-wm225-type-workmate-parts-c-4167_4340_4342.html

The "WM225 Type 1".

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...
By the way, I'm basically looking to build a wider and sturdier
version of this vice:
http://www.holzundlicht.de/Sjoebergs...160--1393.html

I learned a new word. How does a Zange differ from a Schraubenstock?
--jsw

On 2/8/2016 5:53 PM, Christopher Tidy wrote:
By the way, I'm basically looking to build a wider and sturdier version of this vice:
http://www.holzundlicht.de/Sjoebergs...160--1393.html


Here's a quick drawing, not to scale, doesn't include all detail.
Basically a couple of side guides with a milled slot to hold a sliding
plate, for stability left/right and up/down.

http://s395.photobucket.com/user/Qma...mjcnj.png.html

Mikek

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2016-02-08, Christopher Tidy wrote:
Am Montag, 8. Februar 2016 15:46:30 UTC+1 schrieb Leon Fisk:


Not a picture -- but I have one of those WorkMates. The belt is
sort of a flat belt with holes punched in it going between the two
cranks, with the right crank preferred by shape for the general
default
use.

The belt goes through the metal channel just behind the cranks,
and beyond a certain torque will climb over the gear on each screw
and
slip one hole at a time. The belt is loose enough so the center is
sort of pinched together between the two screws.


The linked screw drive I made for my sawmill might be easier to make.
The two leadscrews that raise the bandsaw head hang from flanged ball
bearings in loose-fitting holes. They are normally connected by
bicycle sprockets and chain. To disconnect them and reset the blade
parallel to the log supports (which shift) I lift one side so the
bearing comes out of the hole and the lead screw can move closer to
the other one, then pop the chain off the sprocket.

If you have a metal lathe a similar flange mount is easy to make for a
thrust bearing, as I did to adapt an extra long collet closer tube to
my lathe.

--jsw

Am Dienstag, 9. Februar 2016 14:40:05 UTC+1 schrieb amdx:

Here's a quick drawing, not to scale, doesn't include all detail.
Basically a couple of side guides with a milled slot to hold a sliding
plate, for stability left/right and up/down.

http://s395.photobucket.com/user/Qma...mjcnj.png.html

That's more or less what I want to build, except I don't have access to a milling machine at the moment. I have access to a metalworking lathe, power hacksaw, bench drill and magnetic drill.

Am Dienstag, 9. Februar 2016 13:26:33 UTC+1 schrieb Jim Wilkins:

I learned a new word. How does a Zange differ from a Schraubenstock?

Roughly speaking, I think any vice made from cast iron would be described as a "Schraubstock". A vice with more wooden components seems to be known as a "Zange". Languages are confusing, though. A "Zange" more commonly refers to a pair of pliers, but I suppose they do have a conceptually similar function.

If Nick Müller stills visits this group, he can likely give you a definitive answer.

Am Dienstag, 9. Februar 2016 04:54:13 UTC+1 schrieb Larry Jaques:

Yes, but I want to build the vice myself. Know the feeling?

Ayup. Gonna cast the flanges and mill the threads yourself, too?
If not, LVT has the basic metal parts. You build the vise itself.

No. I don't really have the time (or the thread-cutting gear). I've got my eye on a threaded spindle from Benchcrafted.

Am Dienstag, 9. Februar 2016 00:25:48 UTC+1 schrieb Christopher Tidy:
The steel plate is very ineffective in that orientation; it is stiff against vise left/right twist,
but not against vise top/bottom twist.

I think a thick plate will be OK (especially as the vice spindle is above the plate, closer to the object being gripped), but I'll do a rough calculation to see what angle the front jaw will move through before I order the parts to build it.

Having done a quick calculation, I think the stiffness will be a bit questionable. So it's rethink time.

I might get some parts laser cut and have a pair of 270 degree gussets around the external corner at the bottom of the vice jaw (is "gusset" right here - I'm sure there's a better word?). But that depends on my being able to weld the parts together without significant distortion. That might be hard.

"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...
Am Dienstag, 9. Februar 2016 00:25:48 UTC+1 schrieb Christopher Tidy:

I might get some parts laser cut and have a pair of 270 degree gussets
around the external corner at the bottom of the vice jaw (is "gusset"
right here - I'm sure there's a better word?). But that depends on my
being able to weld the parts together without significant distortion.
That might be hard.

It IS hard. The company where I apprenticed as a machine builder
welded all their frames, then we assemblers custom fit the panels to
the resulting size. The welder was far better than I'll ever be but he
couldn't completely anticipate and control shrinkage.
--jsw

"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...
Am Dienstag, 9. Februar 2016 13:26:33 UTC+1 schrieb Jim Wilkins:

I learned a new word. How does a Zange differ from a
Schraubenstock?

Roughly speaking, I think any vice made from cast iron would be
described as a "Schraubstock". A vice with more wooden components
seems to be known as a "Zange". Languages are confusing, though. A
"Zange" more commonly refers to a pair of pliers, but I suppose they
do have a conceptually similar function.

If Nick Müller stills visits this group, he can likely give you a
definitive answer.

===========

Thanks. The German class I took in college was meant to learn to read
scientific literature rather than converse in it, much like learning
Latin. Then the Army sent me to Schwabenland where they speak almost a
different language.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swabian_German
--jsw

On 2/9/16 6:00 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...
Am Dienstag, 9. Februar 2016 13:26:33 UTC+1 schrieb Jim Wilkins:

I learned a new word. How does a Zange differ from a
Schraubenstock?

Roughly speaking, I think any vice made from cast iron would be
described as a "Schraubstock". A vice with more wooden components
seems to be known as a "Zange". Languages are confusing, though. A
"Zange" more commonly refers to a pair of pliers, but I suppose they
do have a conceptually similar function.

If Nick Müller stills visits this group, he can likely give you a
definitive answer.

He does not - too much OT political stuff for him on RCM.

Goes by the handle "muellernick", and there are multiple videos on
YouTube, and lists his location as the "Outback" of Munich, Germany.
The last video seems to have been in 2014.

Joe Gwinn

On Tue, 9 Feb 2016 12:36:14 -0800 (PST), Christopher Tidy
wrote:

Am Dienstag, 9. Februar 2016 04:54:13 UTC+1 schrieb Larry Jaques:

Yes, but I want to build the vice myself. Know the feeling?

Ayup. Gonna cast the flanges and mill the threads yourself, too?
If not, LVT has the basic metal parts. You build the vise itself.

No. I don't really have the time (or the thread-cutting gear). I've got my eye on a threaded spindle from Benchcrafted.

I like LVT because they tend to have tried-and-true vendors with good
products. Wow, Benchcrafted's tail vise costs $295-369? Ouch! For
that price, they ought to be good, too.

--
I would be the most content if my children grew up to be the kind of people
who think decorating consists mostly of building enough bookshelves.
-- Anna Quindlen

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...

He does not - too much OT political stuff for him on RCM.

Joe Gwinn

I do what I can to chase it away.

On Tuesday, February 9, 2016 at 12:47:53 PM UTC-8, Christopher Tidy wrote:


The steel plate is very ineffective in that orientation; it is stiff against vise left/right twist,
but not against vise top/bottom twist.

Having done a quick calculation, I think the stiffness will be a bit questionable. So it's rethink time.

I might get some parts laser cut and have a pair of 270 degree gussets around the external corner at the bottom of the vice jaw (is "gusset" right here - I'm sure there's a better word?). But that depends on my being able to weld the parts together without significant distortion. That might be hard.

Distortion is a problem, all right; if you can get laser-cut gussets, perhaps you can
get the assembly oven-brazed? Brazing should be strong enough for plate-to-gusset,
and gusset-to-jaw could be just screwed in place, or tack-welded.