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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision
linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose. I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63" piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let them stick out on the open end. |
#2
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Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
On Mon, 6 Dec 2010 01:31:25 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote: Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose. I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63" piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let them stick out on the open end. You will be fine. I do it regularly. The HAZ is only a 1/4" or so..maybe 3/16 at most unless you grind your way through as slowly as you can. Just wack the ways out and get on with it. Gunner -- "Confiscating wealth from those who have earned it, inherited it, or got lucky is never going to help 'the poor.' Poverty isn't caused by some people having more money than others, just as obesity isn't caused by McDonald's serving super-sized orders of French fries Poverty, like obesity, is caused by the life choices that dictate results." - John Tucci, |
#3
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Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
If it is precision ground, it is probably hardened. In which case your options are limited.You could keep it cool with a water
spray during the cutting process. Steve "Bob La Londe" wrote in message ... Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose. I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63" piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let them stick out on the open end. |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message ... Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose. I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63" piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let them stick out on the open end. A "Thompson" shaft is case hardened so I grind a groove about 1/8" deep all around with a cut-off wheel on a bench grinder and bandsaw cut through the soft core. The HAZ is small enough that even a quick whack on a big chop saw won't hurt it. |
#5
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Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
On Dec 6, 2:31*am, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a portion of it from the heat. *If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose. I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63" piece. *I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let them stick out on the open end. Are you planning to run the bearings ALL the way to the end? You will not likely run into the very end that was cut off if you have any margin in the design. |
#6
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Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
"Cross-Slide" wrote in message
... On Dec 6, 2:31 am, "Bob La Londe" wrote: Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose. I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63" piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let them stick out on the open end. Are you planning to run the bearings ALL the way to the end? You will not likely run into the very end that was cut off if you have any margin in the design. I have plenty of room for margin. About an inch of both ends goes in the clamps, and I could always leave the HAZ beyond the clamps on the motor end. I have plenty of room between them for the motor mount. |
#7
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Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
--Wet abrasive cutoff saw will go thru it like butter and leave a
mirror finish, no distortion. I've got one in Santa Rosa; there may be one in your neck of the woods? -- "Steamboat Ed" Haas : Time flies like an arrow Hacking the Trailing Edge! : Fruit flies like a banana www.nmpproducts.com ---Decks a-wash in a sea of words--- |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
Bob La Londe wrote:
Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose. I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63" piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let them stick out on the open end. Wrap both sides of the cut with really soaking rags, and it should limit the heating to right around the cut. Jon |
#9
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Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
"Bob La Londe" wrote:
Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose. I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63" piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let them stick out on the open end. Sounds like Thompson rail. The ends will be held in mounts so nothing to worry about. You can abrasive cut and not have HAZ, we cross section product every day to test case hardness profile parts we make. We use a abrasive saw that is flooded with coolant and a light touch on the saw. Then after polishing slowly we check it with a micro indentor. WWW.LECO.COM Wes -- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller |
#10
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Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
"Wes" wrote in message
... "Bob La Londe" wrote: Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose. I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63" piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let them stick out on the open end. Sounds like Thompson rail. The ends will be held in mounts so nothing to worry about. You can abrasive cut and not have HAZ, we cross section product every day to test case hardness profile parts we make. We use a abrasive saw that is flooded with coolant and a light touch on the saw. Then after polishing slowly we check it with a micro indentor. Abrasive with coolant? I have seen plenty of cold cut saws with carbide or other tips. Tounrey blades are one that come to mind that work well at slow speeds with coolant, but didn't know there were abrasive blades that were designed to run with coolant. I wish I had a slow speed coolant bath saw, but I can't justify the cost just yet. I am stuck with a variety of abrasive tools or a hack saw. Usually for medium size stuff I use the chop saw. I use a cheap circular saw on stuff that won't fit in the chop saw, and I use a hand piece with fiber disc mandrel for smaller stuff. Its very rare that I have to use a torch anymore, but once in a while I just can't get an abrasive saw in where I need it. My hacksaw gets used even less than the torch. Back to my application, I have about decided to do the water soaked rag trick, and cut them an inch long leaving the HAZ on the outboard side of the clamps. That way I'll also be able to grind a tiny little chamfer on the end making transfering the slide onto them easier. If my rod ever gets here. |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
Bob La Londe wrote: "Wes" wrote in message ... "Bob La Londe" wrote: Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose. I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63" piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let them stick out on the open end. Sounds like Thompson rail. The ends will be held in mounts so nothing to worry about. You can abrasive cut and not have HAZ, we cross section product every day to test case hardness profile parts we make. We use a abrasive saw that is flooded with coolant and a light touch on the saw. Then after polishing slowly we check it with a micro indentor. Abrasive with coolant? I have seen plenty of cold cut saws with carbide or other tips. Tounrey blades are one that come to mind that work well at slow speeds with coolant, but didn't know there were abrasive blades that were designed to run with coolant. I wish I had a slow speed coolant bath saw, but I can't justify the cost just yet. Brick/block/tile saws are abrasive saws with coolant, and many aren't especially expensive. |
#12
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Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com... Bob La Londe wrote: "Wes" wrote in message ... "Bob La Londe" wrote: Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose. I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63" piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let them stick out on the open end. Sounds like Thompson rail. The ends will be held in mounts so nothing to worry about. You can abrasive cut and not have HAZ, we cross section product every day to test case hardness profile parts we make. We use a abrasive saw that is flooded with coolant and a light touch on the saw. Then after polishing slowly we check it with a micro indentor. Abrasive with coolant? I have seen plenty of cold cut saws with carbide or other tips. Tounrey blades are one that come to mind that work well at slow speeds with coolant, but didn't know there were abrasive blades that were designed to run with coolant. I wish I had a slow speed coolant bath saw, but I can't justify the cost just yet. Brick/block/tile saws are abrasive saws with coolant, and many aren't especially expensive. Hmmm... I do have a really nice overhead tile saw with a moving table. I had not thought of that since it spins as fast as most other saws. It's a diamond grit blade. You think it would do the trick? I got it to cut bricks when I made a walk between the shop and the house. |
#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
Bob La Londe wrote:
Abrasive with coolant? I have seen plenty of cold cut saws with carbide or other tips. Tounrey blades are one that come to mind that work well at slow speeds with coolant, but didn't know there were abrasive blades that were designed to run with coolant. I wish I had a slow speed coolant bath saw, but I can't justify the cost just yet. --FWIW there's one thing *my* wet abrasive saw isn't and that's slow. I turn a 6" dia blade at 5,000rpm which works out to 7,500sfm more or less. Kerf is pretty narrow: 1/16"; it's fun when the blades explode... ;-) -- "Steamboat Ed" Haas : Time flies like an arrow Hacking the Trailing Edge! : Fruit flies like a banana www.nmpproducts.com ---Decks a-wash in a sea of words--- |
#14
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Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
In article ,
"Bob La Londe" wrote: "Pete C." wrote in message ster.com... Bob La Londe wrote: "Wes" wrote in message ... "Bob La Londe" wrote: Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose. I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63" piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let them stick out on the open end. Sounds like Thompson rail. The ends will be held in mounts so nothing to worry about. You can abrasive cut and not have HAZ, we cross section product every day to test case hardness profile parts we make. We use a abrasive saw that is flooded with coolant and a light touch on the saw. Then after polishing slowly we check it with a micro indentor. Abrasive with coolant? I have seen plenty of cold cut saws with carbide or other tips. Tounrey blades are one that come to mind that work well at slow speeds with coolant, but didn't know there were abrasive blades that were designed to run with coolant. I wish I had a slow speed coolant bath saw, but I can't justify the cost just yet. Brick/block/tile saws are abrasive saws with coolant, and many aren't especially expensive. Hmmm... I do have a really nice overhead tile saw with a moving table. I had not thought of that since it spins as fast as most other saws. It's a diamond grit blade. You think it would do the trick? I got it to cut bricks when I made a walk between the shop and the house. If it spins too fast, or there is too little water coolant, cutting ferrous metal will destroy the diamond blade. Joe Gwinn |
#15
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Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
... In article , "Bob La Londe" wrote: "Pete C." wrote in message ster.com... Bob La Londe wrote: "Wes" wrote in message ... "Bob La Londe" wrote: Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose. I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63" piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let them stick out on the open end. Sounds like Thompson rail. The ends will be held in mounts so nothing to worry about. You can abrasive cut and not have HAZ, we cross section product every day to test case hardness profile parts we make. We use a abrasive saw that is flooded with coolant and a light touch on the saw. Then after polishing slowly we check it with a micro indentor. Abrasive with coolant? I have seen plenty of cold cut saws with carbide or other tips. Tounrey blades are one that come to mind that work well at slow speeds with coolant, but didn't know there were abrasive blades that were designed to run with coolant. I wish I had a slow speed coolant bath saw, but I can't justify the cost just yet. Brick/block/tile saws are abrasive saws with coolant, and many aren't especially expensive. Hmmm... I do have a really nice overhead tile saw with a moving table. I had not thought of that since it spins as fast as most other saws. It's a diamond grit blade. You think it would do the trick? I got it to cut bricks when I made a walk between the shop and the house. If it spins too fast, or there is too little water coolant, cutting ferrous metal will destroy the diamond blade. Its got a ton of water coolant, but it may spin too fast. After spending half a day cutting bricks with it you are soaked from the waist up due to incidental spray. Kind of a nice job to have on a hot day. LOL. I use diamond blades in my 4.5" angle grinder for my day job when I need to make a neat cut in stucco because it cuts the stucco fast and cuts the chicken wire, but it does go through blades if I have a lot of it to do. Its worht it though because of the speed and neatness of cut compared to other blades or, YEESH! hand tools. |
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