When you realize that slow eddy is a liar and a fraud that pretends to be an expert on every subject this company might interest you if you want to understand current(pun intended) electric bike motor technology:


https://www.electricbike.com/crystalyte-hub-motor/

"High Speed (S) or High Torque (T)

One of the decisions you will have to make if you buy a Crystalyte is whether you want to go with a motor wound for torque or one wound for speed. Some of the following factors need to be weighed before making a selection appropriate to your needs:

Wheel size

Battery pack voltage you anticipate running

Amperage requirements/limitations

Terrain and riding style requirements: will you be climbing a lot of hills or
primarily using it on moderate

How big of hills do you ride? Off-road or blacktop? Aggressive riding style or around town laidback cruising?

Gearing will change depending on what the size of your wheels are. A 20-inch wheeled bike will be geared lower than a 29er, which will be geared super high. The more amps and voltage you pump, the more likely you should go with a speed motor for top speed since torque will not be much of an issue. However if your daily commute involves climbing steep grades you are better off with the high-torque motors and smaller wheels, and may want to consider limiting the volts and amps to keep from smoking your motor.

Rule of thumb: The HT is more efficient at lower speed; the HS is more efficient at higher speed."

On Saturday, October 3, 2015 at 3:16:34 PM UTC-7, jon_banquer wrote:
When you realize that slow eddy is a liar and a fraud that pretends to be an expert on every subject this company might interest you if you want to understand current(pun intended) electric bike motor technology:


https://www.electricbike.com/crystalyte-hub-motor/

"High Speed (S) or High Torque (T)

One of the decisions you will have to make if you buy a Crystalyte is whether you want to go with a motor wound for torque or one wound for speed. Some of the following factors need to be weighed before making a selection appropriate to your needs:

Wheel size

Battery pack voltage you anticipate running

Amperage requirements/limitations

Terrain and riding style requirements: will you be climbing a lot of hills or
primarily using it on moderate

How big of hills do you ride? Off-road or blacktop? Aggressive riding style or around town laidback cruising?

Gearing will change depending on what the size of your wheels are. A 20-inch wheeled bike will be geared lower than a 29er, which will be geared super high. The more amps and voltage you pump, the more likely you should go with a speed motor for top speed since torque will not be much of an issue.. However if your daily commute involves climbing steep grades you are better off with the high-torque motors and smaller wheels, and may want to consider limiting the volts and amps to keep from smoking your motor.

Rule of thumb: The HT is more efficient at lower speed; the HS is more efficient at higher speed."

Bumpty bump, bump.

On Sat, 3 Oct 2015 15:16:29 -0700 (PDT), jon_banquer
wrote:

When you realize that slow eddy is a liar and a fraud that pretends to be an expert on every subject this company might interest you if you want to understand current(pun intended) electric bike motor technology:


https://www.electricbike.com/crystalyte-hub-motor/

"High Speed (S) or High Torque (T)

One of the decisions you will have to make if you buy a Crystalyte is whether you want to go with a motor wound for torque or one wound for speed. Some of the following factors need to be weighed before making a selection appropriate to your needs:

Wheel size

Battery pack voltage you anticipate running

Amperage requirements/limitations

Terrain and riding style requirements: will you be climbing a lot of hills or
primarily using it on moderate

How big of hills do you ride? Off-road or blacktop? Aggressive riding style or around town laidback cruising?

Gearing will change depending on what the size of your wheels are. A 20-inch wheeled bike will be geared lower than a 29er, which will be geared super high. The more amps and voltage you pump, the more likely you should go with a speed motor for top speed since torque will not be much of an issue. However if your daily commute involves climbing steep grades you are better off with the high-torque motors and smaller wheels, and may want to consider limiting the volts and amps to keep from smoking your motor.

Rule of thumb: The HT is more efficient at lower speed; the HS is more efficient at higher speed."

You moron. You were complaining about the "torque problem" with
two-stroke IC motor-assisted bikes, and now your reference is for an
ELECTRIC motor that comes in two different versions.

Here's where you crashed and burned, Bonkers: The O&R motor that you
were complaining about has a CENTIRFUGAL CLUTCH. It is a motor ASSIST
that is not intended for accelerating from a dead stop. In fact, it
can't because the centifugal clutch won't engage until the motor is
well up on its power curve.

Those two-stroke assist motors are not intended to accelerate the bike
or to be the sole power going up hills. The same is true with the
Solex, or the old Mobilette, or the Honda mo-ped that was never sold
in the US. You pedal them up to speed, and then open the throttle. If
you're going fast enough, the motor will engage the clutch (in the
case of the O&R) and power you along.

That's what they're made for. They don't have a "torque problem."
They're limited by power, not by torque, because they're running
pretty fast before the centrifugal clutch will even engage. In the
Solex, if you aren't going fast enough before you stop pedalling, the
motor just dies. They're for cruising, not for accelerating. They
aren't motorcycles.

Once again, you're out to lunch, linking to some site that has nothing
to do with the subject, because you have no idea what you're talking
about.

--
Ed Huntress

On Sat, 03 Oct 2015 23:23:37 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Sat, 3 Oct 2015 15:16:29 -0700 (PDT), jon_banquer
wrote:

When you realize that slow eddy is a liar and a fraud that pretends to be an expert on every subject this company might interest you if you want to understand current(pun intended) electric bike motor technology:


https://www.electricbike.com/crystalyte-hub-motor/

"High Speed (S) or High Torque (T)

One of the decisions you will have to make if you buy a Crystalyte is whether you want to go with a motor wound for torque or one wound for speed. Some of the following factors need to be weighed before making a selection appropriate to your needs:

Wheel size

Battery pack voltage you anticipate running

Amperage requirements/limitations

Terrain and riding style requirements: will you be climbing a lot of hills or
primarily using it on moderate

How big of hills do you ride? Off-road or blacktop? Aggressive riding style or around town laidback cruising?

Gearing will change depending on what the size of your wheels are. A 20-inch wheeled bike will be geared lower than a 29er, which will be geared super high. The more amps and voltage you pump, the more likely you should go with a speed motor for top speed since torque will not be much of an issue. However if your daily commute involves climbing steep grades you are better off with the high-torque motors and smaller wheels, and may want to consider limiting the volts and amps to keep from smoking your motor.

Rule of thumb: The HT is more efficient at lower speed; the HS is more efficient at higher speed."

You moron. You were complaining about the "torque problem" with
two-stroke IC motor-assisted bikes, and now your reference is for an
ELECTRIC motor that comes in two different versions.

Here's where you crashed and burned, Bonkers: The O&R motor that you
were complaining about has a CENTIRFUGAL CLUTCH. It is a motor ASSIST
that is not intended for accelerating from a dead stop. In fact, it
can't because the centifugal clutch won't engage until the motor is
well up on its power curve.

Those two-stroke assist motors are not intended to accelerate the bike
or to be the sole power going up hills. The same is true with the
Solex, or the old Mobilette, or the Honda mo-ped that was never sold
in the US. You pedal them up to speed, and then open the throttle. If
you're going fast enough, the motor will engage the clutch (in the
case of the O&R) and power you along.

That's what they're made for. They don't have a "torque problem."
They're limited by power, not by torque, because they're running
pretty fast before the centrifugal clutch will even engage. In the
Solex, if you aren't going fast enough before you stop pedalling, the
motor just dies. They're for cruising, not for accelerating. They
aren't motorcycles.

Once again, you're out to lunch, linking to some site that has nothing
to do with the subject, because you have no idea what you're talking
about.
No arguement about Bonkers, but when it comes to Mopeds there are
different types. Mopeds MUST be pedalled to start.Sometimes you pedal
start them on the center stand with the back wheel off the ground.
After the engine is running, you CAN take off from a dead start with
the motor alone - without pedalling - but you won't take off very
quickly. The old Soles and front drive Mobilettes are different - they
can start off on their own too, but not without producing tire smoke
from the roller spinning against the stopped tire.
I owned a Honda PA50 and I very seldom used the pedals.

With electric assist bikes there are 2 types - pedalec and hand
throttle. A pedalec system only runs the motor when the pedals are
turning, and the output of the motor is proportional to the amount of
torque pplied to the pedals. The hand throttle will pull away from a
dead stop when you twist the throttle - just like a motorcycle -
although not very quickly with a maximum legal output of 500 watts
(and in some places only 350) I own and ride a Schwinn I-Zip. I
usually do a fair bit of pedalling but I don't need to work up a
sweat. It's not fast, and doesn't really like hills very much but it
makes them easier for me to climb. It is a 24 volt bike - but with a
36 volt battery pack on a trailer it moves along pretty well -----

Then there are the electric scooters with "vestigal pedals" that would
kill you if you had to pedal them for a mile!!!

On Saturday, October 3, 2015 at 8:23:42 PM UTC-7, slow eddy tired to cover yet another one of his frauds and lied:

The usual slow eddy lies to cover fraud snipped

Nothing to respond to.

On Saturday, October 3, 2015 at 8:44:16 PM UTC-7, Clare wrote:

No arguement about Bonkers, but when it comes to Mopeds there are
different types. Mopeds MUST be pedalled to start.Sometimes you pedal
start them on the center stand with the back wheel off the ground.
After the engine is running, you CAN take off from a dead start with
the motor alone - without pedalling - but you won't take off very
quickly. The old Soles and front drive Mobilettes are different - they
can start off on their own too, but not without producing tire smoke
from the roller spinning against the stopped tire.
I owned a Honda PA50 and I very seldom used the pedals.

With electric assist bikes there are 2 types - pedalec and hand
throttle. A pedalec system only runs the motor when the pedals are
turning, and the output of the motor is proportional to the amount of
torque pplied to the pedals. The hand throttle will pull away from a
dead stop when you twist the throttle - just like a motorcycle -
although not very quickly with a maximum legal output of 500 watts
(and in some places only 350) I own and ride a Schwinn I-Zip. I
usually do a fair bit of pedalling but I don't need to work up a
sweat. It's not fast, and doesn't really like hills very much but it
makes them easier for me to climb. It is a 24 volt bike - but with a
36 volt battery pack on a trailer it moves along pretty well -----

Then there are the electric scooters with "vestigal pedals" that would
kill you if you had to pedal them for a mile!!!

You can't argue with the facts I've posted Clare so sit down and STFU.

I've got it right.

On Sat, 03 Oct 2015 23:44:10 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 03 Oct 2015 23:23:37 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Sat, 3 Oct 2015 15:16:29 -0700 (PDT), jon_banquer
wrote:

When you realize that slow eddy is a liar and a fraud that pretends to be an expert on every subject this company might interest you if you want to understand current(pun intended) electric bike motor technology:


https://www.electricbike.com/crystalyte-hub-motor/

"High Speed (S) or High Torque (T)

One of the decisions you will have to make if you buy a Crystalyte is whether you want to go with a motor wound for torque or one wound for speed. Some of the following factors need to be weighed before making a selection appropriate to your needs:

Wheel size

Battery pack voltage you anticipate running

Amperage requirements/limitations

Terrain and riding style requirements: will you be climbing a lot of hills or
primarily using it on moderate

How big of hills do you ride? Off-road or blacktop? Aggressive riding style or around town laidback cruising?

Gearing will change depending on what the size of your wheels are. A 20-inch wheeled bike will be geared lower than a 29er, which will be geared super high. The more amps and voltage you pump, the more likely you should go with a speed motor for top speed since torque will not be much of an issue. However if your daily commute involves climbing steep grades you are better off with the high-torque motors and smaller wheels, and may want to consider limiting the volts and amps to keep from smoking your motor.

Rule of thumb: The HT is more efficient at lower speed; the HS is more efficient at higher speed."

You moron. You were complaining about the "torque problem" with
two-stroke IC motor-assisted bikes, and now your reference is for an
ELECTRIC motor that comes in two different versions.

Here's where you crashed and burned, Bonkers: The O&R motor that you
were complaining about has a CENTIRFUGAL CLUTCH. It is a motor ASSIST
that is not intended for accelerating from a dead stop. In fact, it
can't because the centifugal clutch won't engage until the motor is
well up on its power curve.

Those two-stroke assist motors are not intended to accelerate the bike
or to be the sole power going up hills. The same is true with the
Solex, or the old Mobilette, or the Honda mo-ped that was never sold
in the US. You pedal them up to speed, and then open the throttle. If
you're going fast enough, the motor will engage the clutch (in the
case of the O&R) and power you along.

That's what they're made for. They don't have a "torque problem."
They're limited by power, not by torque, because they're running
pretty fast before the centrifugal clutch will even engage. In the
Solex, if you aren't going fast enough before you stop pedalling, the
motor just dies. They're for cruising, not for accelerating. They
aren't motorcycles.

Once again, you're out to lunch, linking to some site that has nothing
to do with the subject, because you have no idea what you're talking
about.
No arguement about Bonkers, but when it comes to Mopeds there are
different types. Mopeds MUST be pedalled to start.Sometimes you pedal
start them on the center stand with the back wheel off the ground.
After the engine is running, you CAN take off from a dead start with
the motor alone - without pedalling - but you won't take off very
quickly. The old Soles and front drive Mobilettes are different - they
can start off on their own too, but not without producing tire smoke
from the roller spinning against the stopped tire.
I owned a Honda PA50 and I very seldom used the pedals.

Right. But the O&R is a recoil-start motor. You can start it while the
bike is stationary, and rev it up until the centrifugal clutch
catches...and then burn up the clutch or burn the drive-wheel rubber
right off the shaft, or maybe burn a hole through your tire and tube.
I never found out which happens first. g So you do have to pedal it
to get enough speed for practical starts.

The Solex wouldn't start unless you pedalled it, IIRC. The one I rode
in Switzerland, 47 years ago, was 32 cc and had nothing until you got
it moving. And it was pedal-start for the initial start, anyway, if I
remember correctly. It didn't have a starter.

As you say, they're slow to start in any case. Torque and acceleration
are not objectives. You have to get them up on their power curves
before you apply a load, or they're bog slow to accelerate. The ones
I've ridden were, anyway.


With electric assist bikes there are 2 types - pedalec and hand
throttle. A pedalec system only runs the motor when the pedals are
turning, and the output of the motor is proportional to the amount of
torque pplied to the pedals. The hand throttle will pull away from a
dead stop when you twist the throttle - just like a motorcycle -
although not very quickly with a maximum legal output of 500 watts
(and in some places only 350) I own and ride a Schwinn I-Zip. I
usually do a fair bit of pedalling but I don't need to work up a
sweat. It's not fast, and doesn't really like hills very much but it
makes them easier for me to climb. It is a 24 volt bike - but with a
36 volt battery pack on a trailer it moves along pretty well -----

Then there are the electric scooters with "vestigal pedals" that would
kill you if you had to pedal them for a mile!!!

Like the Puch moped that Sears used to sell in the '50s and '60s. A
friend in college had one. I tried pedalling it. It was a joke. The
pedals were just there so it would legally qualify as a moped rather
than a motorcycle.

I haven't tried an electric bike but I'll bet they're a lot better
than the IC-powered ones. At least, the good electric bikes.

--
Ed Huntress

On Sat, 3 Oct 2015 20:45:36 -0700 (PDT), jon_banquer
wrote:

On Saturday, October 3, 2015 at 8:23:42 PM UTC-7, slow eddy tired to cover yet another one of his frauds and lied:

The usual slow eddy lies to cover fraud snipped

Nothing to respond to.

In over your head again, eh, Bonkers?

--
Ed Huntress

On Saturday, October 3, 2015 at 10:22:01 PM UTC-7, slow eddy failed:

The usual slow eddy lies and bull**** snipped

Nothing to respond to.